265H Multiple Issues

[Alan Mard 9]

I'll try to keep this succinct. The machine is a Toro/Wheelhorse 265H. I have a mower deck & the single stage blower. I'm NOT a mechanic nor do I play one on TV. There are a couple of issues with this machine.

 

The first issue is that the tractor has an intermittent starting issue. Some TIMES (not days) it will start and sometimes it will not make ONE sound when you turn the key. No clicks, no grunts, no NOTHING.  It's intermittent. The tractor may have been running for an hour and I'll go to restart it and it won't start.  If I wait awhile, SOMETIMES it will start again, but most times I have to jiggle some wires and if I'm lucky, it'll start. (This makes no sense because all of the connections are tight).  I have checked EVERY wired connection for frays, loose connections, shorts, etc.  A friend came by when it was DEAD and he jumped the solenoid. It started right away and he thought the wire to the solenoid was loose. We tightened it and he checked the other wires. After that, I needed to jump the solenoid to get the tractor going so I went and purchased a new solenoid. It STILL won't start with the new solenoid. It will start only if I jump it.

 

Next issue. The PTO clutch would come on and then kick off while operating the tractor. SOMETIMES it would "come back on" if I turned the switch off and back on again, and other times it would not come on at all. I bought a replacement clutch and had a mechanic install it. It was not an OEM version and when we started the tractor after the installation, the PTO was fully engaged, and it would NOT disengage with the switch. He put the old one back in, I sent for the OEM version. When that arrived, the mechanic installed it, and it worked just fine for about 2 weeks.  It's been a couple of weeks since, and it does NOT work again - at all.

 

Yesterday, I jumped the solenoid to get her started and I tried the PTO. I could hear the click, it whirled and then quit. I engaged it again and it clicked, whirled and quit. After a few more times, it stayed on for about 10-15 minutes and it quit again, while I was mulching the leaves. I pulled up on the PTO switch again and it came on and this time it ran for close to an hour without failing.

 

YES!! I replaced the PTO switch, too!! I also disconnected the seat safety switch to remove that from the equation.

 

WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON??? ANYBODY have any ideas???  Again, I'm not a mechanic, but I do have a guy who comes to the house for repairs and I will share your suggestions with him. Winter is around the corner, and I need my snowblower to work when the time comes. HELP!!!!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

What is the model number and serial number of your tractor?

14 different 265-H's

 

[Alan Mard 9]

[Alan Mard 9]

Here's some new info for you - to REALLY drive me crazy. Went out, turned the key - she fired right up and then I pulled up on the PTO switch and it kicked in right away and ran for close to an hour, mulching leaves. I didn't want to press my luck, so I waited until I was all done, I shut the PTO switch off, waited a few minutes and then turned it back on and it worked! There's a gremlin in this thing and I need it to be more consistent because I use it to snowblow the driveway. I'm going to need it when I need it. Thx in advance! 

[stevasaurus 22,763]

You may have a broken wire inside the insulation...called a "high resistance open"...shaking the wires and getting connections tells me it is something to look for.  To look for it, you have to disconnect the total length of the wire and use a multimeter...connect on each end and look for a short.  If you see a short...good wire...if not, you have an open in the insulation.  I would check the wires before I bought accessories that may not need to be replaced.  

[Alan Mard 9]

Steve, don't mean to sound stupid, but which long wire are you referring to. 

[stevasaurus 22,763]

All of the wires...but especially the ones you are shaking.  It takes some time, but it doesn't cost anything to look.  You can replace a bunch of accessories, but if you have a "High Resistance Open"...you will never fix the issue until you replace the bad wire.  You can probably take one side off and check for that short in the wire.  Short tells you the wire is good.  The meter can see the other end of the wire.  

Edited November 4, 2022 by stevasaurus

[Alan Mard 9]

Thank you Steve. I'll pickup a meter this weekend and get to work. I appreciate your feedback

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

The full serial number is 9900585 so record that for the future.

Download these diagrams.

Best to print out pages 2 and 3 so they can be placed side by side.

The rest of the drawings are individual circuits making it easier to understand.

Also realize these diagrams are only 1/2 of the circuit - the other half is the grounds and are required to complete the circuit..

 

[stevasaurus 22,763]

What happens is the meter can see the other electrode and the needle goes to the right.  Turn the meter on to the DC thing and touch the two electrodes...should see the meter peg to the right...that is a short.  That tells you the wire had continuity...currant flows through it.  Then use those electrodes to verify continuity.  If you are unsure, you can practice on a length of wire to see what is going on.  You need to get to know your meter...worth a million bucks.  Understand we are talking DC currant here...not AC.

[Jayzauto 89]

I've had quite a few of the 260 series Tractors...... A bad PTO switch CAN give you both problems... Intermittent no start, as well as intermittent PTO operation, as both start circuit as well as PTO circuit are run thru that switch.  Theres usually 6-7 wires to that switch, so testing can be tricky.  I down load the wiring diagrams and familiarize myself with the terminals involved.  I pull the switch out thru the front of the dash, so testing can be done much easier.  Test switch and wiring cold, hot, running and be ready to test when your problems occur.    be comfortable with your meter.  DO NOT rely on Ohms tests, Voltage drop tests are much more reliable.   One other bit of advice, IF you need to replace the PTO Switch, use only TORO OEM for your model.  DO NOT use aftermarket (Amazon, Chineesium) or you may be installing more problems.  Many of the switches LOOK the same externally, and will fit, but not work as designed. 

 

GLuck, Jay

[Alan Mard 9]

Jay, thank you for your contribution. I DID purchase the OEM version of the switch. I learned my lesson when I purchased the aftermarket PTO clutch. LOL

I appreciate your post, thank you.

Alan