Jeff-C175 7,203 #1 Posted November 2, 2022 (edited) Looking for some ideas... hope someone can validate what I think is going on. Carb is rebuilt, twice. Fuel pump is rebuilt, working fine. Engine starts easily and runs fine... UNTIL ... it coughs and sneezes, almost stalls, spews some gasoline snot out the carb, governor opens wide, engine catches again and runs fine for some more time, typically a couple minutes and the cycle repeats. When I pulled the fuel pump there was a lot of crap inside and some was holding a check valve open... I thought "AHA, that's it!" ... ummm, no, that was not it. But it was a problem. Here's what I've noticed observing the issue: This hole in the carb is, I believe, an 'overflow' for the bowl. It leads right in there so I presume it's either that, or a way to keep the bowl at atmospheric pressure... or BOTH. Just before the engine coughs and sneezes, I see liquid fuel filling this hole, even a few drips coming out. As soon as it sneezes, the hole is clear of liquid again and the engine resumes running normally. I have the float level set to spec, a second brand new float valve is installed. The float floats fine and there is no liquid inside the float. I THINK what is happening is that the engine is bobbing around and the float is bouncing and letting too much fuel into the bowl... shutting off the fuel, but 'bouncing' the needle valve. I'm going to adjust the float about a quarter inch lower. Should still get enough fuel I'm sure. Does this sound plausible? Possible? Probable? Edited November 3, 2022 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 843 #2 Posted November 3, 2022 A-1 miller performance has a spring for the float Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #3 Posted November 3, 2022 44 minutes ago, gt14rider said: A-1 miller performance has a spring for the float Thank you Sir! That EXACTLY describes the issue I'm having with this, actually 2 of these, engines! I'm going to try adjusting the float a little lower first, if that doesn't help, I guess I'll spring for the spring. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heatingman 971 #4 Posted November 3, 2022 Does this only happen when driving over rough terrain? Or does it also happen while sitting/driving level? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 434 #5 Posted November 3, 2022 You didn't say what tractor model this is on, but I think the wobble plate engine mounts on some of the C series can cause this or make it worse. My 300's do it once in awhile on bumpy ground. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,771 #6 Posted November 3, 2022 6 hours ago, gt14rider said: A-1 miller performance Is a vendor to AVOID. There has been numerous mentions of negative interactions here on the site and that Miller has a "reputation" along with a criminal record. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #7 Posted November 3, 2022 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: vendor to AVOID. Yeah, I've heard that. 7 hours ago, Rick3478 said: didn't say what tractor 7 hours ago, Heatingman said: sitting level? No, because it's not on a tractor. It's on a generator, on a shaker plate. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,175 #8 Posted November 3, 2022 The "splash guard??" bowl gasket hasnt been mentioned - not sure thats proper name, but it is critical in keeping this from happening. I had one doing it and found the gasket was so .... 'wrinkled?' that it allowed splash to happen. Changed that gasket to an 'ironed' (flat) one fixed it. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #9 Posted November 3, 2022 50 minutes ago, pacer said: splash guard It's in there, and flat. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #10 Posted November 3, 2022 Do not all floats have the tab to adjust the 'drop' ? There is no such tab on this float, thought it may have been broken off, but there is no evidence it ever existed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,334 #11 Posted November 3, 2022 Never seen a afloat with out the tab.. could explain your problem float level would have been my first check with this issue... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #12 Posted November 3, 2022 8 minutes ago, pfrederi said: with out the tab.. could explain your problem There IS a tab to adjust the UPPER... the tab that seems to be non-existent is the one that the instruction calls for the DROP, or the LOWER limit. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,717 #13 Posted November 3, 2022 Let me provide something. Jeff, this is a k-301 carb float... that has both tabs... I do know that some stens floats do not come with both tabs... some do not come with either!!! I have a place here in Indiana where I can pick up the correct float like the one above, if need be. Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,334 #14 Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) just looked a at 2 #30 carbs on my bench neither one has the lower level drop tab Edited November 3, 2022 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #15 Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, pfrederi said: carbs on my bench Same as the ones in these #26 carbs! I guess some do, and some don't. Setting the float lower did not fix the problem. Putting C-clamps on the Shaker plate to limit the vibration did fix the problem! I'm going to have to replace those rubber mounts. Edited November 4, 2022 by Jeff-C175 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,771 #16 Posted November 3, 2022 Just now, Jeff-C175 said: replace those rubber mounts With solid spacers 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #17 Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) 9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: With solid spacers Perhaps. With the c-clamps holding the plate it didn't seem to want to walk around the driveway so they may not be needed at all. McMaster does have them though. I replaced them on the other generator already. Not very $$ I may just leave them in place and weld the shaker plate to the frame with some steel angle. Edited November 3, 2022 by Jeff-C175 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #18 Posted November 19, 2022 Took off the rubbers, the metal ends with the bolt studs fell out of the rubber. Drilled through the rubber, put bolt through and torqued 'em down tight. No more hippy hippy shake... 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,771 #19 Posted November 20, 2022 20 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: Took off the rubbers, the metal ends with the bolt studs fell out of the rubber. Drilled through the rubber, put bolt through and torqued 'em down tight. No more hippy hippy shake Is this the same shaker plate base Wheelhorse used? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #20 Posted November 20, 2022 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Is this the same shaker plate base Wheelhorse used? No. Same principle though. The plate is much larger, both the engine and generator sit on it, and the plate rides on the rubbers which bolt to the wheeled frame. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 434 #21 Posted November 20, 2022 Maybe coloring a bit outside the lines but ... convert to propane? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #22 Posted November 20, 2022 1 hour ago, Rick3478 said: convert to propane? Yeah! That would work... can't 'spill' a gas! But... then... HOW do I do that? Special carburetor? Wonder if anyone makes one for a K series? I've seen what appears to be propane stuff for the K series in the carburetor manuals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 434 #23 Posted November 20, 2022 1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said: Yeah! That would work... can't 'spill' a gas! But... then... HOW do I do that? Special carburetor? Wonder if anyone makes one for a K series? I've seen what appears to be propane stuff for the K series in the carburetor manuals. Yeah, mixer and regulator, probably safety shutoff, I've never done one. Kohler used to have kits, don't know if still available. There are third party kits, uscarb.com comes up on Google, don't know what their quality is like. Probably others. And IIRC the propane motors had higher compression heads, so you might lose a bit of power. Not in my wheelhouse, I'm just sort of aware peripherally, maybe others on here are more expert. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #24 Posted November 20, 2022 18 minutes ago, Rick3478 said: Kohler used to have kits, don't know if still available This is what USCARBS says works on the K301. Tri-fuel too! $187.00 Interesting! Might be neat to try on a tractor. https://motorsnorkel.com/product/conversion-kits/k9522-tri-fuel-adapter-style-conversion-kit-natural-gas-propane-and-gasoline/ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,771 #25 Posted November 20, 2022 1 hour ago, Rick3478 said: so you might lose a bit of power. Not in my wheelhouse, I'm just sort of aware peripherally Same here. My understanding is.... Propane/NG as a fuel has less energy than gasoline, which is what causes the power loss. The increase in compression is specific to propane/NG engines. Not tri-fuel. Propane/NG has a different burn rate than gasoline and can tolerate the higher compression. Increasing the compression in a propane/NG engine compensates for some of the loss of power caused by the lower energy output of propane/NG vs gasoline fuel. 50 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Might be neat to try on a tractor I've processed the thought in discussions with @Jrain and @Handy Don. I think I would be a VERY interesting conversion and workable Horse. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites