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Kibbie01

GT 14 parts

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19richie66
1 hour ago, The Freightliner Guy said:

He’s saying can you pull the small gear so in contact the big gear

well that’s what I think he’s trying to say 

Yes. Couldn’t think of a better way to describe it at the time. Just was wondering if your gear was stuck or could you move it out to make contact with the flywheel. 

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Snoopy11
45 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 use jumper cables.  Black to Battery NEG and a clean bolt on the engine block.  Red to battery positive and touch other end to the starter input terminal.  If it engages you have a weak solenoid or more like bad ground somewhere.  if it doesn't work load test battery it is bad.  So many electrical problems here come back to weak battery or bad ground.

Precisely what I would do in this case... :music-rockout:

 

Just make sure the battery you test with is good... :ph34r:

 

Don

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953 nut
On 10/31/2022 at 7:09 PM, 953 nut said:

If your battery is good and you have good battery cables

 

4 hours ago, Kibbie01 said:

that solenoid for the ford didnt work.  I hooked it up and it didnt even click.  when I installed the other one back on, it started working.  well, the starter started spinning, but would never engage.  not sure what the issue is now? 

Take you battery to an auto parts store to have it load tested. Remove all battery cables including grounds and clean and inspect all terminals, then tighten the connectors. It is likely that you have a bad connection causing a voltage drop.

Here is an explanation of the problems that can be caused by corrosion on electrical connections that was provided by @Save Old Iron

 

The  connectors used in this tractor series are in a harsh, corrosive environment caused by vapors from the battery being charged over a few decades.. Vibration causes the connections to loosen - corrosion starts within the metal terminals and a voltage drop develops across the corrosion.

If you have a 10 amp current flowing across a 1 ohm resistance (contact corrosion) the electrical formula to calculate power is current squared times resistance

so 10 amps x 10amps x 1 ohm resistance = 100 watts !!

100 watts of connector heating is the same as laying a 100 watt soldering iron on the connector

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Kibbie01

thanks, I will try that tonight

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Kibbie01

I got it to turn over now.  starter was fine.  my jump box wasnt giving it enough power to make the starter engage.  not i have a No Spark issue.  I have changed the spark plug and the spark plug wire.  I have power to the coil on both sides.  my last 14 HP Kohler, I have an issue with the voltage meter connection.  could that be causing my no spark issue? 

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953 nut
4 hours ago, Kibbie01 said:

t i have a No Spark issue.  I have changed the spark plug and the spark plug wire.  I have power to the coil on both sides

Have you cleaned the contacts on your ignition points?

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Kibbie01

where are the ignition points?  Is that the small box at the front of the motor? 

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oliver2-44
40 minutes ago, Kibbie01 said:

where are the ignition points?  Is that the small box at the front of the motor? 

Yes.

Look closely at the point when open to see if the contact s (round buttons) are smooth (but probable oxidized). If they are fairly smooth take a dollar bill or piece of brown paper bag and pull it through them like sand paper to remove the oxidized coating.  if they are rough or have a "tip" on them take a ignition file or fine sand paper (a finger nail emery board works if the wife doesn't catch you:dance:) and sand of the tip off.

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Kibbie01

Thanks.  I will try to get that done this weekend.  The GT 14 front grill and gas tank has to be removed to I can get to the points.  

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953 nut
8 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

(a finger nail emery board works if the wife doesn't catch you:dance:)

OH, she will know!            :angry-tappingfoot:      Best off to just buy your own finger nail file if you need one, could save your marriage.

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Sailman

I may be mistaken but are we sure the GT 14 has points? I thought it had a different type of ignition system. Can't remember the name but more of an electronic type that didn't use points. I seem to remember folks talking about converting the GT 14 to a points ignition due to the cost and difficulty finding the original type if it goes bad. Maybe some other GT 14 experts here can chime in and confirm.  

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953 nut

When they left the factory fifty or more years ago the GT-14 had a trigger ignition but as you said the parts are hard to come by if they fail. Here is a thread @Aldon did a while back.

 

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19richie66

I believe the 69/70 used the breakerless ignition. 71/72 came with points. I could be wrong 👍

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Kibbie01

Thanks guys.  I cleaned and set the points.  Fires up now. I did however take the last bolt off and dropped the grill and the gas tank.  Now the gas tank “nozzle” has a crack in it right at the tank.  Any suggestions on how to fix that? 

image.jpeg

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Kibbie01

image.jpeg

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19richie66

 

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Kibbie01

of course i have another issue on my GT 14.  My screw for the hydraulics just spins when I try to tighten it.  They guy I git it from said he turned the screw so he could push it on the trailer.  I have left it that way till after I git is started.  now the motor is running, but that screw just keeps spinning.  Doe you think it just the screw, or do I now have a running GT 14 that will not go anywhere?  

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pfrederi

There should be a roll pin stuck through end of the valve stem.  It should stick farther out one side than the other.  Turn valve so the long end faces front.  You should be in business.  Turn long end towards the rear you can roll the tractor, 

 

Have you downloaded the operators manual for the GT14???

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Kibbie01

it just keeps spinning.  on my C-141, the stem would stop.  I had to tow it when it cut off in the field, so I had to tow it back.  the GT 14 stem just spins with no tension.  it just feels loose or not threaded.  

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, Kibbie01 said:

it just keeps spinning.  on my C-141, the stem would stop.  I had to tow it when it cut off in the field, so I had to tow it back.  the GT 14 stem just spins with no tension.  it just feels loose or not threaded.  

Spinning...trhat is the way it should be... it is a port valve.

 

Look at the manual

 

Edited by pfrederi

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Kibbie01

You know of anyone that has an electric PTO clutch for the deck?  I think I am missing a spindle or something as well.  Looks like there is a shield that covers the deck belt that is also missing.  

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Kibbie01

image.jpeg.27e5dec86334ca74b34a1759e9321cdd.jpeg

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daveoman1966

I think thyis is the arm you need...PIVOT ARM 6725  I have one, but it was broken and has been BRAZE WELDED.  

It should work ok.  $30 bux for it...shipped. 

This pic shows the side mule drive from an old Bronco 14... same part # 6725  for the GT-14.

   

mule- 008.jpg

PIVOT ARM 6725.JPG

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Kibbie01

how can i purchase it?  Paypal? 

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Kibbie01

Do you have a Electric PTO cluch as well? 

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