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gloubigoulba

raider 14 from France

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The Freightliner Guy

Hey is that a unimog??

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gloubigoulba

it is , unimog 411 westfalia cabine . wood parts of rear plateform are in dry place 

Edited by gloubigoulba
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gloubigoulba

Hello , i decide not to buy an original cable.There is not in France and it's more difficult to command in uk since brexit. So i took part on an old and very small caravane and i'm going to make with what i got.

I'm looking for a drive belt too. I find in documentation it is a TORO 7473... is it correct? And the size is 5/8 x 82'' belt? (5L8200?). there a toro 7473 OEM on sale ,look at the price on the picture !!! ( one euro = one dollar) lol 

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Edited by gloubigoulba
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gloubigoulba

Hello, finally,i succeed to make a DIY cable. Static test was successful .Some details need to be corrected but it's fine .Real test will be at work.

New drive belt will come soon

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Snoopy11
On 10/30/2022 at 9:59 AM, gloubigoulba said:

hello, I live in the center of France. i'm not really a great collector but i love old mecanics like stationnary motors,tractors,all antics machines. 

I bought a raider 14 yesterday to a Neighbors. Wheel horse product is unknown in France and there's no informations.

So... I'm here to find help. My WH has the electrical lift option but it had been badly repared . Some parts of the original mounting system are gone.

there is a rota tiller. I need u help for pictures to see how it was . The cable is broken too. thanks for u help (excuse me for my poorly language: translators are Worth!!!

Boy this is wonderful to see. Very glad to have you here @gloubigoulba :greetings-waveyellow:

 

Don

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gloubigoulba

hello, Repairs became more complicated.I finally succed to have a correct (but not prfect) fonctionnement.). After cable lift (look good),

Some deformations appear.. Mecanical efforts are strong ,some parts are not in de best condition and systeme was have a deformation during lift up. .I renforced as i could  the rigidity of the mecanical system . 

i uses screws and nuts replacing used axis and limit deformations..Maybe i shoult put a spring beetwin tiller ans tractor to help the lift ??

Each probleme revolved... An another one appeaded on this lift and i'm resonabily optimistic whis real test.

many thing have benn modified for repairs years ago. Rarility of parts and difficulties with imperial units are reasons for "original modifications"

Just after electrical lift,I was not very hopeful for drive belt replacement. And i was right : several modifications and repairs and even il the belt il the same as original one: gearbox pulley is always running (using clutch or not). All informations needed . Another question:Is there a solution to change bearing pulley number 7466?

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Rick3478

If I remember correctly, the tiller lift setups usually have a fairly strong helper spring to take some of the load (as you suggest).  With your electric lift, I am not sure where that might fit, but think it is a good idea.  As for the pulley spinning all the time, this belt should be run from the PTO.  Maybe the clutch or its associated brake need adjustment or repair?

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gloubigoulba
13 hours ago, Rick3478 said:

If I remember correctly, the tiller lift setups usually have a fairly strong helper spring to take some of the load (as you suggest).  With your electric lift, I am not sure where that might fit, but think it is a good idea.  As for the pulley spinning all the time, this belt should be run from the PTO.  Maybe the clutch or its associated brake need adjustment or repair?

thanks for u response. Yes a spring should be a good solution for lift.i saw pictures of spring on mqnual lift. Today, i try the tiller. it works fine but a connection lift cable  part broke. maybe it was made of " chewing gum iron" but there were to much force for it. Clutch problem is not so difficult. I just start to undestand the system. All bearing need to be change and drive pulley on motor is used

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gloubigoulba

hello. I changed the broken part by another stronger and i added a spring to help the lift.It looks better. Clutch is now repaired : idler pulley have been changed and i made a belt brake .Some pictures of the spring

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gloubigoulba

Hello, i wish u Nice end of thé year festivities.

I décided to have a look to thé leak on brake . So, i expected just to change the seal (maybe u can tell me  his  size?). But brake liner is dead and unsticked.This part looks hard to find in Europe. Some dealers sell basic band to cut,only in metric size.  It should be fine. What kind of stick I need to use?

Later i'll take down thé tiller to change some bearings,have a look to fixation système to see if it's not too used. 

I want also build something mountable on tiller fixations and connected to lift to put a little car traîler.  I got an old onemade in netherland with suspension blades. It should be nice with  my wheelhorse (make pics soon)

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oliver2-44
On 11/5/2022 at 5:52 PM, gloubigoulba said:

Hello, finally,i succeed to make a DIY cable. Static test was successful .Some details need to be corrected but it's fine .Real test will be at work.

New drive belt will come soon

20221105_210559.jpg.8d920fcb7eb46a344c125df6dc87db2a.jpg20221105_210310.jpg.41c3736527404057638b2b3a110109f7.jpg

   You lift cable looks good, but one suggestion. It looks like you have the “saddle” part of the clamp on the dead end of the cable. You want the saddle on the “ live or loaded end of the cable. To help cable riggers There is an old saying:  Never saddle a dead horse. 
 

If your existing brake band is not worn out, soak and degrease it with some paint thinner.  You can use a glue like Gorilla glue, silicone caulk, or I like to use JB weld epoxy 

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gloubigoulba

Hello

 My brake band was too used and in bad condition . I needed to change it but it's expensive here . 

 

So I try another solution: i took a piece of belt band for old engine (like hit and miss engine) .

One meter (40 inch) cost 4 dollars . I'll tell you if it work fine

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