Let me get yalls opinion repower vs original

[RED-Z06 2,390]

The seller knew it had a seat knocked out...he turned the lash out pretty much all the way to buy time to get it sold.  I followed the trail of fresh gaskets right to the problem.  But for that 45 minutes it looked and ran like a beast

[RED-Z06 2,390]

13 hours ago, Heatingman said:

For a little more, id buy something like this instead:

 

I had one, A Golden Jubilee and a 2n.  Loved them for what they were but hated the size and the hydraulics.  Both engines were very easy to rebuild though 

[Snoopy11 5,717]

1 minute ago, RED-Z06 said:

for that 45 minutes it looked and ran like a beast

Well that's too bad. At least there are options fo' ya' though... however pricey.

 

Generally, I don't bring a machine into the shop without a full tear-down. That wouldn't have helped in your situation...

 

At this point... this is one of those projects that... you'll never get your money back out of...

 

Don

[RED-Z06 2,390]

2 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Well that's too bad. At least there are options fo' ya' though... however pricey.

 

Generally, I don't bring a machine into the shop without a full tear-down. That wouldn't have helped in your situation...

 

At this point... this is one of those projects that... you'll never get your money back out of...

 

Don

I had the engine off, apart to do the flyball spacer, had it down to the long block...you dont generally go any deeper into an onan because the specific tool needed to pull the cam gear and you start having to measure end play and do shims.  It ran good...just ran fast due to the spacer and the starter was going out.

[lynnmor 7,482]

Did you go to this website to see if their oversize valve seat will help? 

[RED-Z06 2,390]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Did you go to this website to see if their oversize valve seat will help? 

I told the machinist about it.  The pocket is too deep as it is, it needs to be tig welded up and a new pocket machined in...problem is no one in 100 miles wants to bother with a small engine except this one shop and he's so far behind that spending a few hours on this 1 off job isnt worth it.

[RED-Z06 2,390]

You wouldn't think this engine had a seat sitting loose ..

 

https://youtu.be/7npZ9mNsJj0

[kpinnc 13,119]

5 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

My only gripe is the displacement...23hp 633cc is considerably smaller than many other similarly rated engines...

 

But they fit in much smaller spots than same-hp competitors. The only issue on WH tractors is you'll need to raise them about an inch to put the PTO shaft where it needs to be. 

 

And my 14hp Vanguard had considerably quicker response and lower torque droop pulling an Eayon hydro and WH 48-inch deck than my 518-H Onan powered tractor did. I know the numbers won't agree with that, but the real world application won't always agree with the specs. The power curve on those V twin engines is very good. 

[RED-Z06 2,390]

2 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

But they fit in much smaller spots than same-hp competitors. The only issue on WH tractors is you'll need to raise them about an inch to put the PTO shaft where it needs to be. 

 

And my 14hp Vanguard had considerably quicker response and lower torque droop pulling an Eayon hydro and WH 48-inch deck than my 518-H Onan powered tractor did. I know the numbers won't agree with that, but the real world application won't always agree with the specs. The power curve on those V twin engines is very good. 

The thing the onan had going for it was the 35lb iron flywheel, it stored a tremendous amount of energy but at the cost of responsiveness.

 

Im still on the fence...500 is more attractive than 2200 but..

[kpinnc 13,119]

5 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

Im still on the fence...500 is more attractive than 2200 but..

 

I must admit, most of mine were donated, so my costs were far lower. 

[RED-Z06 2,390]

38 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

I must admit, most of mine were donated, so my costs were far lower. 

Im in a tractor sparse environment..most engines that pop up locally are tapered crankshaft 

[Snoopy11 5,717]

18 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

.most engines that pop up locally are tapered crankshaft 

In Florida? Don't you guys have to mow year around???

 

The tapered crankshaft can be resolved with an adapter, as I'm sure you know...

 

Don

[RED-Z06 2,390]

Decided to roll the dice on the unknown P220G off the internet...i was able to get my old one back from the machinist so i have parts..ill run the other engine prior to installing...and test compression.

 

 

[RED-Z06 2,390]

Got the starter and flywheel, tins, off my old engine...such a shame, the cylinders are perfect.  

[RED-Z06 2,390]

Well...got the $530 P220 shipped in, block is busted at the starter mount.  

[lynnmor 7,482]

4 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

Well...got the $530 P220 shipped in, block is busted at the starter mount.  

Was it busted in shipping or is the seller a crook?  Shipping damage may have insurance.

[RED-Z06 2,390]

2 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Was it busted in shipping or is the seller a crook?  Shipping damage may have insurance.

Seller probably didn't know it was a busted block but it wasn't a shipping issue.  Its more of a "I should have known" issue.  If i could TiG weld id fix it...finding someone willing to mess with it could be difficult 

[lynnmor 7,482]

4 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

Seller probably didn't know it was a busted block but it wasn't a shipping issue.  Its more of a "I should have known" issue.  If i could TiG weld id fix it...finding someone willing to mess with it could be difficult 

Good Luck!  I don't think it would be a problem finding a welder here in PA, hopefully there is one in your area.

[Heatingman 971]

6 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

Seller probably didn't know it was a busted block but it wasn't a shipping issue.  Its more of a "I should have known" issue.  If i could TiG weld id fix it...finding someone willing to mess with it could be difficult 

Pictures?

[RED-Z06 2,390]

1 minute ago, Heatingman said:

Pictures?

 

[Heatingman 971]

Looks like cast aluminum. Be a real pain to weld that. 

 

Just get some JB weld, drill a small hole at the far end of the crack to stop the spread of the crack - fill that crack, and the tapped hole, then re-drill and re-tap the hole. 
 

 

[oliver2-44 10,085]

5 minutes ago, Heatingman said:

Looks like cast aluminum. Be a real pain to weld that. 

 

Just get some JB weld, drill a small hole at the far end of the crack to stop the spread of the crack - fill that crack, and the tapped hole, then re-drill and re-tap the hole. 
 

 

Good idea, but instead in of retapping the hole, would it work to JB weld a stud in there?

[RED-Z06 2,390]

9 minutes ago, Heatingman said:

Looks like cast aluminum. Be a real pain to weld that. 

 

Just get some JB weld, drill a small hole at the far end of the crack to stop the spread of the crack - fill that crack, and the tapped hole, then re-drill and re-tap the hole. 
 

 

Thankfully its not tapped, bolt passes through and threads into the starter.

 

Unfortunately, by design, all the stress on the starter pulls it straight down and they clearanced the bottom of the boss to clear the starter housing...its pretty thin there.  I stood there for a half hour with JB in my hand contemplating doing a fill and drill..but, with how that part is so weak..i dont think JB would do it, its a very poor design shared by all onan P-series

[RED-Z06 2,390]

6 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Good idea, but instead in of retapping the hole, would it work to JB weld a stud in there?

No access to put a nut on and any starter work would require pulling the engine and flywheel.  Its hard to describe how bad this design is...but when its all together and not broken, if the engine kicks back at all? The whole thing somehow flexes

[Heatingman 971]

31 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

Thankfully its not tapped, bolt passes through and threads into the starter.

 

Unfortunately, by design, all the stress on the starter pulls it straight down and they clearanced the bottom of the boss to clear the starter housing...its pretty thin there.  I stood there for a half hour with JB in my hand contemplating doing a fill and drill..but, with how that part is so weak..i dont think JB would do it, its a very poor design shared by all onan P-series

Are you saying the starter sits below that hole? If so how close?

Im thinking you could reinforce that extrusion by wrapping that cracked area with steel tube with a bore diameter just over the size of the extrusion. Ideally a purpose made bushing, but a Piece of conduit, maybe some washers stacked up, even a worm drive clamp would add a ton on tensile strength. 
 

Cast aluminum that thin just does not have that much shear strength.