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ebinmaine

8 SPEED Transmission compatibility?

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ebinmaine

We knew when we got it from @wallfish our  1986 416-8 with the backhoe would need to have transmission seals +/-- whatever...

It needs bearings so it'll be split and fixed at some point. 

 

 

What I'd like to do is a transmission SWAP.  Rebuild one I have here and toss it in then rebuild the existing one later.  

 

I have 2 choices on hand. 

1.  is an unknown year 8 speed likely from sometime in the 70s because that's the years I tend to aquire. 

2.  is around a 1980. 

 

Both appear to be mechanically solid on exterior inspection. 

Either way I go, the new one would get 2 new wheel bearings and 4 seals at minimum.  

 

Will  ~  ANY ~  1⅛ axle 8 speed replace another?

 

 

@stevasaurus @pfrederi @953 nut

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ri702bill

Eric - I'll say yes. You already mentioned the 1-1/8" axle size and you need that for your application. The 1" axle version like the 310-8 is not what you want....

Bill

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953 nut

Based on this repair manual I would say any 8 speed with 1 1/8" axles would all be compatible.

 

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953 nut

:confusion-confused:     One thing to look for on the earlier 8 speeds is the two mounting bolts for the fuel tank/seat support may not be there.

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Pullstart

I believe they all had the bolt holes (that are compatible with a seat spring mount as well for round hoods).  The “tunnel” sheet metal in early B or C tractors with the gas tank under the hood would have utilized those holes as well.  I’m agreeing with the masses, any and all 8 speeds with 1-1/8” axles will work.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

Edited by Pullstart
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ebinmaine
59 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

:confusion-confused:     One thing to look for on the earlier 8 speeds is the two mounting bolts for the fuel tank/seat support may not be there.

 

14 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

they all had the bolt holes

 

The holes are there for sure...

I'd think the spacing would be the same??

 

 

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Pullstart
13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

The holes are there for sure...

I'd think the spacing would be the same??

 

 


You’re golden!

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wallfish

Just swap in another 1 1/8 trans

Run that trans that's in there now until you get completely used to operating that hoe. The hoe is BRUTAL on the trans axle bearings when the wheels are on the ground and pulling down digging. Larger base plates for the 2 stabilizers would help with slowing down the digging into the ground as you work.  They can work themselves into the ground pretty quickly so always keep an eye on that.

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, wallfish said:

Larger base plates for the 2 stabilizers would help with slowing down the digging into the ground as you work.  They can work themselves into the ground pretty quickly so always keep an eye on that.

Interesting you'd bring that up. 

Definitely something we noticed right away. 

 

How big of a platform would you add?

I thought about maybe making up a couple that would directly replace the existing seat but maybe two or three times the size?

 

 

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wallfish
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Interesting you'd bring that up. 

Definitely something we noticed right away. 

 

How big of a platform would you add?

I thought about maybe making up a couple that would directly replace the existing seat but maybe two or three times the size?

 

 

I would bolt something on the plates so they can be removed or size adjusted too. Like 2 pcs of heavy angle each side of each platform. Then it can always be adjusted by length of the angle depending upon the conditions or what you experience. :twocents-02cents:

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Pullstart

What about an auxiliary landing gear on the front of watch rear tire?  You could plumb them in series with the rear landing gear, so both sides get equal pressure whether front or back cylinder.

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Pullstart

Think of your front end loader… and the plumbing on the lift cylinders.

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oliver2-44

Verify your brake drum linkage is the same and your good to go.

I believe the 6 speed brake drum linkage was slightly different on the 6 speed. 

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Verify your brake drum linkage is the same and your good to go.

I believe the 6 speed brake drum linkage was slightly different on the 6 speed. 

Correct.  

6 speed and 8 speeds are two different breeds.  

 

I'd only use an 8 speed.  

 

4 hours ago, wallfish said:

I would bolt something on the plates so they can be removed or size adjusted too. Like 2 pcs of heavy angle each side of each platform. Then it can always be adjusted by length of the angle depending upon the conditions or what you experience. :twocents-02cents:

Any chance we can get one of those handy dandy Wallfish diagrams? 

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wallfish
43 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

handy dandy Wallfish diagrams?

598920242_stabilizerfoot.jpg.ea5d02ecb96a929ab315ad095078f9fa.jpg

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, wallfish said:

598920242_stabilizerfoot.jpg.ea5d02ecb96a929ab315ad095078f9fa.jpg

Excellent. Thank you sir. 

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Horse Newbie
23 hours ago, wallfish said:

598920242_stabilizerfoot.jpg.ea5d02ecb96a929ab315ad095078f9fa.jpg

Can we get a side view ?

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wallfish

Untitled.jpg.00a46e40101f424d8358067ae43c8621.jpg

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Horse Newbie
1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Untitled.jpg.00a46e40101f424d8358067ae43c8621.jpg

Okay !… man that side view really makes a difference !

 

Thank you @wallfish

Edited by Horse Newbie

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ebinmaine
Just now, Horse Newbie said:

Okay !… man that side view really makes a difference !

Been thinking I might even make a box shaped foot outta the angle iron.  More gription ya know.   

 

 

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Handy Don
1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

Been thinking I might even make a box shaped foot outta the angle iron.  More gription ya know.   

Look over where the foot is when arm moves through retracted to extended and make sure of clearances.

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Horse Newbie
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Been thinking I might even make a box shaped foot outta the angle iron.  More gription ya know.   

 

 

You may even be able to fab up some removable wooden or steel “pads” like you often see being used on mobile crane outriggers.

Edited by Horse Newbie
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Handy Don
9 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

You may even be able to fab up some removable wooden or steel “pads” like you often see being used on mobile crane outriggers.

Watched a big crane being set up and it took two workers to lift and place a steel footpad under each outrigger before a hydro-actuated screw cranked down into a socket in the plate.

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ebinmaine
15 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

You may even be able to fab up some removable wooden or steel “pads” like you often see being used on mobile crane outriggers.

 

4 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Watched a big crane being set up and it took two workers to lift and place a steel footpad under each outrigger before a hydro-actuated screw cranked down into a socket in the plate.

 

 

We use nylon for our crane it work. 

 

It's important to remember that a crane outrigger pad is VERY different from a backhoe or excavator foot. 

A crane pad isn't meant to stop much movement because the crane doesn't pull against the pad. There is NO ground or any other engagement happening. 

 

 

A foot is meant to dig in to the ground to prevent the machine from moving while it it's fighting tooth and nail to do just that.  

 

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wallfish

Most of the digging in is caused by the tractor being pulled back towards the hole. Too much float by making it too big will probably skid them across the top of the ground more. They need to dig in some to hold.

Maybe cut teeth into the angle? see below

I was also thinking about adding pins bolted or clipped to the front bucket. Added to the magic drawing LoL

Having the front bucket ALL the way down lifting the front puts the entire weight of the tractor on the hoe bucket and and helps to keep it from moving back

379587501_stabilizerfoot.jpg.601bba26658e083ac6a7347985052370.jpg

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