Using chute rotation control motor from a wak behind snowblower?

[Panther416-8 341]

I searched the site but didn't see anyone do this. Has someone found a chute rotation control motor from a walk behind snowblower that has a worm gear that matches up with the teeth on a two stage WH blower (79361)? Instead of all the extra work involved with adapting something like a power seat motor, I thought it might be easier to just order one for a walk behind blower and make it fit. I looked at my old MTD blower but the teeth on the chute are a little smaller than the WH. I didn't look at my Airens walk behind yet to see if they are closer in size. I think as long as tooth size matches up, it's just a matter of getting a motor with wiring and switch from a walk behind and then make a mount for it. Toggle switch could go in a space in the dash panel or mounted on the side in an L bracket.

[ri702bill 8,296]

Interesting idea. The toggle switch would need to be a 3-position style - OFF in the middle, right to rotate to the right, left for the opposite. Momentary return to center like a car power window switch??

[peter lena 8,589]

@Panther416-8  https://www.bing.com/search?FORM=UP97DF&PC=UP97&q=worm+gear+for+snowblower  check  this out for ideas , maybe  answer  ,  obviousely , out of the box , so expect to look at anything for a  possible fix, good luck with it , pete 

[Panther416-8 341]

3 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Interesting idea. The toggle switch would need to be a 3-position style - OFF in the middle, right to rotate to the right, left for the opposite. Momentary return to center like a car power window switch??

Yep. I think that's how the switches on the walk behinds are set up. If I can match up tooth size I think I'm in business unless someone knows why that wouldn't work. But come to think of it, I don't know what voltage those walk behind blowers are running at since they don't have a battery but do have some type of current generator. 

[wallfish 16,988]

Since you will need to make a mount for any motor either way ( Which is the most time consuming part} it seems like all the extra work is trying to find something to fit the chute.

The existing 2 stage worm gear has a connection between it and the long handle so adapting a gear motor to that is the simple part. That worm gear has a small shaft on it with a hole for a cotter pin. Make a simple connection to a motor shaft with a piece of tube or pipe. 1/2" copper pipe or whatever. Dill holes near the ends at 90 deg, drill a hole through motor shaft if there isn't one. Wire to switch and done

Walkbehind chute motors must be something new, never saw one but never searched either. All of mine over the years were hand rotated or a Toro stick control

 

For information purposes

https://www.amazon.com/Makermotor-Shaft-Reversible-Electric-Motor/dp/B0765KZ3TJ/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=1330409642054800&hvadid=83150841204345&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=4087&hvlocphy=135813&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83150966407384%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=25401_13486878&keywords=dc+gear+motor+100+rpm&qid=1666449420&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjUzIiwicXNhIjoiMS41MCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-2

 

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/DPDT-CO-20-Amp-Momentary-Toggle-Switch-66-1851-11-3259.axd

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

You may need limit switches if you use something with a lot of torque ( like power seat motor )

 

I wonder if the motors they use for chute control have some sort of clutch?

 

 

[wallfish 16,988]

Limiting switches to stop the rotation before mechanical ends is a good idea!

  I never used or needed them on mine and never had a problem. The worm gear can slip if you accidentally go past the teeth on the chute if it's set up right. The chute pushes over because it shouldn't be pinched super tight against the blower housing or retainers or it will be more difficult to rotate to begin with. That semi loose fit of the chute on the blower housing gives the safety factor for over runs and allows easier rotation. There's plenty of adjustment there to achieve this and keeps it pretty simple as far as wiring in and adding limit switches goes.  The chute only needs to move away from the worm gear to disengage it the same distance as the depth of the worm gear groove to allow it to slip. 1/8" maybe? The chute rotates fine with that space tolerance and without jumping teeth during normal rotation, or at least mine had no issues. Another way to avoid limit switches is to use flimsy pins for the motor to worm gear shaft connections that will give before there's a binding problem. ( Small copper wire strand will break before binding but sizing it correctly will take some trial and error.)  Using a power window motor will probably just stop the motor

 

 

I've since changed over to direct drive sprockets and a chain so the chute can rotate 360 deg. In my situation that saves a lot of repositioning the tractor and it can shoot snow right over the cab backwards. Not advised to do that without having a safety glass front window cab or a good dental plan.  

( It has an aluminum sprocket added on the chute base but grinding/filing in additional teeth the same size all the way around the chute base will also work for a chain or the worm gear. The existing teeth will fit perfectly into a #35 chain . They sell that same motor linked earlier with a 35 sprocket already on it )

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

9 minutes ago, wallfish said:

linked earlie

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WH39VJ5/

 

This appears to be a suitable reversing switch, pre-wired.