"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #1 Posted October 19, 2022 I know the original bolts are 3/8-16 3-1/4, I want to upgrade to a 9, however, they are 3-1/2. My question then, will I need to cut the extra 1/4 off these bolts? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,347 #2 Posted October 19, 2022 I cannot answer if you do or do not NEED to cut them,,,,, but, if you decide to cut them, they are hardened thru, not just the surface. They would need to be either ground or disc sanded, but do not overheat them - that kills the temper and defeats the purpose of using them...... 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #3 Posted October 19, 2022 12 minutes ago, ri702bill said: I cannot answer if you do or do not NEED to cut them,,,,, but, if you decide to cut them, they are hardened thru, not just the surface. They would need to be either ground or disc sanded, but do not overheat them - that kills the temper and defeats the purpose of using them...... Well, the need would only be if they would rub. Cutting with a cut-off wheel may heat them some, nut sure if it'd be enough to alter the temper? Really would've preferred the correct length but seems to be an odd size... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #4 Posted October 19, 2022 (edited) Do they need to be Grade 9 ? Are the originals Grade 8 ? Because those are available in 3-1/4" Plus, you get qty 10 for $2 less than qty 5 of the G9. Edited October 19, 2022 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #5 Posted October 19, 2022 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Do they need to be Grade 9 ? Are the originals Grade 8 ? Because those are available in 3-1/4" Plus, you get qty 10 for $2 less than qty 5 of the G9. I have grade 9, but not sure if the extra 1/4" is too long? I'll know soon enough as I will put the assembly in the case and dry fit Edited October 19, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic" 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,021 #6 Posted October 19, 2022 Using an abrasive cutoff wheel on the bolt will change the heat treat of the bolt in the area adjacent to the cut, maybe up to 1/8" away from the cut. Assuming that the affected area will be sticking out of the nut in the assembly, the strength of the bolt should not be changed. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #7 Posted October 19, 2022 20 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: Using an abrasive cutoff wheel on the bolt will change the heat treat of the bolt in the area adjacent to the cut, maybe up to 1/8" away from the cut. Assuming that the affected area will be sticking out of the nut in the assembly, the strength of the bolt should not be changed. I could live with that, if need be... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #8 Posted October 19, 2022 Just now, "Manic-Mechanic" said: I could live with that, if need be... And if you do have to cut them, go slowly and don't let the heat build up. Maybe even 'heat sink' them by threading a nut onto the bolt first. The extra mass should help in keeping the heat from traveling too far down the bolt. In fact, when I cut any bolt I always do that in an effort to be able to 'chase' the threads after cutting. I've even threaded the correct die onto the bolt first. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #9 Posted October 19, 2022 1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said: And if you do have to cut them, go slowly and don't let the heat build up. Maybe even 'heat sink' them by threading a nut onto the bolt first. The extra mass should help in keeping the heat from traveling too far down the bolt. In fact, when I cut any bolt I always do that in an effort to be able to 'chase' the threads after cutting. I've even threaded the correct die onto the bolt first. Funny thing, I do exactly the same after dressing up the the very end... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
