Long miters by hand

[formariz 11,987]

Everyone knows that a miter is a relatively simple thing to do. Wether using a powered miter saw or a hand operated one it is a straightforward thing to do as long as it is on the end of a board. A long miter on the edge of a board however is a not so simple thing to do . I am sure many of you tried it on for example a table saw and found that it is not only a precarious operation but also that it does not yield good results. Regardless of the side of the fence you attempt to cut it there is always lots of binding and burning. If board is not perfectly flat miter will also not be accurate.

  I always do long miters by hand using a plane. I have made them up to ten feet long this way. Plane is assisted  by an adjustable guide that will adjust to 45 degrees or anything in between. It is a stress free operation with full control over the results . Sometimes one wants a mitered joint to be somewhat more or less than a perfect 45 and with this method adjustments of 1/64” are done in one pass with precision by merely adjusting the blade tilt on plane. Plane guides I use are over 100 years old but can be found relatively easily. My favorite one is made to be used with a wood plane. It’s used on a plane I had since I was 20 years old and one of my favorite tools. When not in use guide is removed. They are also available for metal planes. 
 Another example how a somewhat complex operation with power tools can easily be accomplished better with no drama using simple common hand tools with better predictable results.

 

Jointer Gauge attaches to wood plane

 

Jointer Gauges for wood planes are rarer

 

They were mostly made for metal planes

Gauge holds plane comfortably at right angle

 

very small adjustments can be made by just tilting blade within plane

a very satisfying and controlled process

End result a perfect miter

predictable perfect results. Miters can be simply glued by using masking tape as a clamp 

Full contact on both sides throughout entire length 

 

 

The only clean up to contend with . No flying dust on your face, no danger to fingers.

[Pullstart 62,916]

Thank you again Cas.  Awesome, simple, amazing stuff!

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

Fascinating! Thank you for sharing this post👍🏻 

[8ntruck 7,020]

I took a furniture making class as a night course at the local community college about 1980.  One of the other students demonstrated why you don't make a miter cut on a table saw with the small piece of waste trapped under the blade.  He had a large block of maple that he was slicing about a 15 degree bevel on.  The waste piece was a couple feet long, somewhere between 1 1/2 and 2 inches thick, maybe an inch across on the bottom and less than that on the top.

 

I was doing bench work 6 or 8 feet from the feed side of the table saw.  I heard the saw grunt into the cut, then heard the waste land on the floor behind me, uncomfortably close, sliding to a stop just short of my heels.  I calmly took my work out of the vice and moved around to the other side, placing the bench between me and the saw.  The instructor gave that guy a pretty good chewing over that incident.

[953 nut 55,324]

I see you splined the joint to strengthen it,      I usually use a contrasting color wood when doing that.

[Pullstart 62,916]

@953 nut what does that mean?

[953 nut 55,324]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

@953 nut what does that mean?

[Pullstart 62,916]

I see, like a bow tie on a flat joint!  Cas mentioned that was just masking tape on this joint 

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

I new it wasn’t a cheese slicer 

[formariz 11,987]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

I see, like a bow tie on a flat joint!  Cas mentioned that was just masking tape on this joint 

 Correct I did not use a spline. The purpose of the spline is not only to reinforce joint but also to aid in keeping pieces aligned during glue up. When ends are exposed such as in the case of a small box they are also decorative. However if the miter is anything longer than about 30 inches it is a mistake to use it. That would mean running the two pieces individually on the table saw to create the kerf. On a long piece a precarious operation such as doing the miter that way. Kerfs will not be precise in relation to one another therefor misaligning the miters at glue up. On something long it also creates problems if too much glue is used which will not allow joint to close.  There is no need for it. Joint has plenty of good glue surface. It will break everywhere but not at actual point of joint. A glued joint on long grain is stronger than the wood itself. I have done mitered joints up to ten feet long many times and nothing else is needed than a precise miter. Keeping it simple creates less panic at glue up. Plain masking tape keeps joint aligned and tight as glue sets. On the ends I use a pinch dog to keep ends together while I apply the strips of tape every six inches or so as needed. Carpenters glue ( aliphatic resin) sets within 15 minutes so to give me a little more time I add a small percentage of white vinegar to it . That extends set time by about 50% without reducing the strength of glue. 

[Handy Don 12,237]

On 10/18/2022 at 11:04 AM, formariz said:

Carpenters glue ( aliphatic resin) sets within 15 minutes so to give me a little more time I add a small percentage of white vinegar to it . That extends set time by about 50% without reducing the strength of glue

My late dad had designated a very old rocker for my daughter but never got to repair/reassemble/refinish it. When she was expecting her first child, she wanted that rocker for nursing and asked me to get it done.

Got it apart and repaired the seat (a splined glue-up split in two places with contoured top and rough bottom--used the same glue system as you!), two of the splats (spindle-slats) for the backrest, and made two new rungs.

Then heresy ensued.

Rockers absorb huge amounts of stress from different directions and that's why the joints loosen so often. Plus, they have to be assembled in perfect alignment or they will rock "crooked". I've redone several and since this one was not a "resto" and was going to be painted...I used epoxy. You have to prep the joints for a very slightly looser fit. My son and I practiced the full assembly in advance and planned the placement of every single clamp and alignment brace. A pile of pieces to an assembled rocker in 23 minutes.

It's been a few years of with heavy use and it's still as solid as ever.

Edited October 19, 2022 by Handy Don

[formariz 11,987]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Rockers absorb huge amounts of stress from different directions and that's why the joints loosen so often.

 

 

The making of chairs and rockers is an art in itself. As you stated they are subjected to stresses no other piece of furniture is. Chairs were made long before the advent of glue with success and longevity.  In fact some still are made today without using any glue whatsoever and they stay together such as Windsors made by a handful of well known makers. The problem with chairs specially rockers today falling apart has all to do with modern production methods that do not take into consideration not only wood and it’s properties but also the physics involved during use. 
 Let’s talk about rockers specifically , since there are many types of chairs each requiring different construction methods . Most rockers are of the “Windsor” style where four round legs go into the chair bottom and on to the runners on bottom. Today they simply drill four blind holes under the bottom , same on legs for stretchers . Then they squirt some glue in holes, put it together and that is it. 
 Failure from that process is inevitable the following being the causes;

 1- There is really no good glue surface since on a round part going into a round hole there is very little long grain. Most of the hole drilled is end grain. End grain is a terrible glue surface. Glue joint will not last (same as on a doweled joint)

2- chair was definitely made using kiln dried wood all parts having the same moisture content. Inevitably parts will shrink and the already compromised joint will now fail from the incredible stresses applied to it from use. 
3- holes drilled for legs are blind, not going through chair seat  reason being aesthetics and labor savings. Result is insufficient contact area adding to the already mentioned issues.

4- last but not least many times they drive a screw or nail at an angle through these joints to keep things together. Now they are weakening the material in an already bad construction technique. The stresses put on these parts will now many times easily crack material due to the screw or nail.

  Any self respecting chair maker will use dry material for the legs and not so dry material for the seat . He will also have legs go through the seat properly wedging them in the right orientation. As the not so dry seat slab dries it further tightens against an already dry and stable leg also already tightly wedged into it.

  As I said chair making is an art in itself. What we buy today with very few exceptions totally disregards methods , techniques, and time proven skills . The good thing about it however is that we can all afford a rocker otherwise it would be prohibitive. One made by a handful of individuals still out there,is however an object to cherish and admire for many generations.

 Your chair at least fell into the right hands and with some care , skill, patience , and the right glue was able to be enjoyed again. Unfortunately for most in that situation they are just discarded. 

 

[Handy Don 12,237]

I've learned a lot doing furniture repairs and examining the materials and techniques I encounter. On that rocker both the front arm supports and the two main backrest supports were through-mounted with wedges into the splits underneath. Sadly, though, three of the four were sufficiently damaged using nails and screws (which as you note have NO business being used on chairs and rockers) that they could not be mended while assuring the chair would remain strong enough for use. It would have become a "don't sit in this, it's too fragile" museum dust collector. Making replacement parts for the back supports (turned, tapered, and steam bent) was beyond what I was prepared to take on, assuming I could even find suitable material.

As you observe @formariz, the effort involved a series of compromises and achieved the goal of having a chair connecting my daughter and my Dad become, in my hands, part of the memories of the next generation.

Edited October 20, 2022 by Handy Don