18 Auto Transaxle Examination-Pawl

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

I had an issue with periodic jamming in the rear, so time to take a look. 

Why am I not surprised?

 

The infamous Pawl!

 

The damages. Appears there was a second bearing in pieces wrapped around the axle

 

I had use the utility knife followed by "wood chisel method" to get around the case into the gasket

 

Had to push the case half back, then polish the axle around the imprint from the set screw

 

Snap ring or clip finally accessible

 

The stubborn hub brought to the press, 9 tons later the hub ,cover and axle all separated nicely

Edited October 14, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[pfrederi 17,864]

Ouch  at least it didn't crack the tranny housing.  I use Grade 9 bolts and nuts from McMaster for the differential

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Ouch  at least it didn't crack the tranny housing.  I use Grade 9 bolts and nuts from McMaster for the differential

Grade 9 you say? Interesting, should get some then. Stove nuts?

Edited October 14, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[ri702bill 8,482]

On a bright note, the innards look alive and slick with oil, not water or a water / oil mix....

Bill

[pacer 3,174]

53 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Ouch  at least it didn't crack the tranny housing. 

 

Thats the TRUTH~~ Mine blew a monster hole in the housing, well not an actual HOLE, but looked like a giant spiders web with the cracks radiating out ....

 

And on getting the hubs off, I ended up going to a buddys and putting them in his TWENTY ton press and, geez, we had a cheater pipe on the jack handle and was almost ready to think it wasnt gonna come loose when ----- BANG!!!! It finally gave in.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

14 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

On a bright note, the innards look alive and slick with oil, not water or a water / oil mix....

Bill

Yes, I had good looking oil whenever I drained it.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

14 minutes ago, pacer said:

 

Thats the TRUTH~~ Mine blew a monster hole in the housing, well not an actual HOLE, but looked like a giant spiders web with the cracks radiating out ....

 

And on getting the hubs off, I ended up going to a buddys and putting them in his TWENTY ton press and, geez, we had a cheater pipe on the jack handle and was almost ready to think it wasnt gonna come loose when ----- BANG!!!! It finally gave in.

I was about ready to back up a bit whenever the hub cracked loose about and 8th of inch at a time, just like an old steering wheel!

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

This what I am looking at, any reason to avoid these?

[953 nut 55,743]

9 hours ago, "Manic-Mechanic" said:

Grade 9 you say? Interesting, should get some then. Stove nuts?

I have used the flex top lock nuts because that was what I was replacing.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog-128%2F3513/

[daveoman1966 3,758]

Seeing the grenaded Parking Pawl and the broken/bent differential bolts is MORE than enough reason to, at least, inspect the brass internal parts of BOTH the Hyd Pump AND Hyd Motor.  My bet is the Valve Plates (2) and soft brass piston slippers (18) are scratched and need resurfaced.  Since you have the pump and motor assembly, NOW is time.  Here is what you'll find in the pump and motor.  Keep in mind that the slightest scratch on these brass-to-steel contact surfaces will allow HOT fluid (ATF or 10/30 Oil).  The fluid will bypass thru that scratch(es) resulting in lower hyd pressure which precludes optimum power at the rear wheels.  

    

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

7 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

Seeing the grenaded Parking Pawl and the broken/bent differential bolts is MORE than enough reason to, at least, inspect the brass internal parts of BOTH the Hyd Pump AND Hyd Motor.  My bet is the Valve Plates (2) and soft brass piston slippers (18) are scratched and need resurfaced.  Since you have the pump and motor assembly, NOW is time.  Here is what you'll find in the pump and motor.  Keep in mind that the slightest scratch on these brass-to-steel contact surfaces will allow HOT fluid (ATF or 10/30 Oil).  The fluid will bypass thru that scratch(es) resulting in lower hyd pressure which precludes optimum power at the rear wheels.  

    

I agree, the debris surely are a risk factor. I have another rebuilt set of hydro components on the bench. I will also pull the flywheel and replace the rear oil seal. Flush the manifold and look at the hoses. I did use your post already as a reference, very helpful, thank you. I degreased the case halves and removed the broken pawl. I do have another pawl but on the fence about installing it..Now I am looking at the roller bearings and axle seals, more than likely should replace those as well, even if they look great and didn't leak

[daveoman1966 3,758]

As to the parking pawl...I'd install the replacement.  The reason they either break or get ground down is: NEVER pull up the parking lever while in motion.  For the same reason  you wouldn't jam your car/truck into PARK.  Engge the Parking Pawl / Lever ONLY at full stop.    

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

2 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

As to the parking pawl...I'd install the replacement.  The reason they either break or get ground down is: NEVER pull up the parking lever while in motion.  For the same reason  you wouldn't jam your car/truck into PARK.  Engge the Parking Pawl / Lever ONLY at full stop.    

No, not that, close,it more than likely was when the tractor lurches while in park, the forward reverse with brake in neutral was out of whack for a spell. Yes, I have one unroute.