Jimmy66 39 #1 Posted October 11, 2022 Trying to ID a rear end that was swapped into my Raider 12. My guess is a 5053, as it is a 3 speed with reverse like on my 606. But I don't know enough to to differentiate. It was filled with water, although I've got it shifting now, it wont go into first gear very well. I am resigned to needing to getting inside to know what I'm dealing with. Part of me wants to just run it with the kerosene, but I'm worried I'll cause more damage. I can get it in the first when I rotate the rear tires a bit or when I have it in reverse and slide right over into first. But it is very touchy to get it into first, I've been trying to adjust the dog point to see if it helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,146 #2 Posted October 11, 2022 @stevasaurus ? I would try flushing it with kerosene or diesel but the do it right in me says split it. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,078 #3 Posted October 12, 2022 1 hour ago, Jimmy66 said: I can get it in the first when I rotate the rear tires a bit or when I have it in reverse and slide right over into first. But it is very touchy to get it into first, That's common on most of them after years of use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #4 Posted October 12, 2022 Tis a shame, as I'd hoped since it'd been swapped that it'd be in newer condition. I can quote Stevasaurus saying that he'd open it up at any sign of water damage. Want to make sure I know what model I have for parts ordering, and which manual to look at. Hoped the stamped numbers would help ID, but I'll have to take my time and post photos when I get it open 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,204 #5 Posted October 12, 2022 I'm far from convinced you even have a problem. It's common for the gears not to mesh up without a little help in all the gears not just 1st. The gears are flat sided and must be aligned to go in place. Every one of mine needs a little bit of help at times. It becomes second nature and you don't even realize it. All my new to me transmissions get opened up for inspection when I first get them. Drain it first making sure you raise the front up to drain what is in front of the case hump. Most guys use kerosene or diesel fuel and that works great. I spent a bit to get a couple quarts of stuff called Motor Flush bottled by Gunk. Everyone I've done has been almost spotless after doing this but maybe they weren't too bad to start with. Also, I hate the smell of diesel fuel. Drive easy for a spell and drain it again. Be careful what you drive over. It's likely the thin fluid will leak out. While it's apart I'll remove all the seals. It doesn't need to be open for that but it's just easier. I'll put things back together before I install new seals. Add your preferred gear lube, 1 1/2 qt in 3 and 4 speeds, 2 qt in 6 and 8 speeds. Then start driving it after you make sure the belt guard in in place and the tabs (if any) are adjusted properly. I'm thinking you'll find that you really don't have a problem. 2 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,744 #6 Posted October 12, 2022 As Bob @Racinbob mentioned the square cut gears don't always align without a bit of help. Could be the shift rail that your first/reverse fork is attached to has some rust from the water accumulation you spoke of. Over time with repeated use this could go away. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,856 #7 Posted October 12, 2022 In the 1st picture...F8 - ? is the casting date. "F" equates to June (6th month). "8" is the 8th day of that month. Not sure what that last number is, but it is the year. 3900 is the WH part number for the casting. I have no idea what N 2 or what N 1 means in the 2nd picture. 9-8-8 would be September 8 1958 or 1968 depending on the casting. A 3 piece trans casting would be 1958. One easy thing you could do...pull out the shifter and take a look down the hole with a flashlight. You will be able to see your shift forks and some of the shift rails and if they are rusty. You can also move the shift forks with a large screwdriver to view a little more. That should give you a good idea what the inside looks like and if it might be a good idea to open it up. If it is rusty, any rust that happens to get removed by using the horse is going to settle on the bottom as sludge. The transmission you have can be narrowed down by a couple of pictures. Where is the brake drum located in relation to the rear axle?? What diameter axles do you have?? (remember the Heavy Duty 3 speed transmissions had 1 1/8" axles) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #8 Posted October 12, 2022 4 hours ago, Racinbob said: It becomes second nature and you don't even realize it Absolutely. I have found... with 4 of my own machines... it is necessary to double clutch the machine at times to get it in gear. Push clutch in... transmission will not go into gear... let clutch out momentarily, then push clutch back in... it should go into gear. Not saying that your particular transmission doesn't have problems... but the "difficulty" (if that is what you want to call it) of getting it into gear at times is more normal than not. Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites