C-125 rubber engine mounts

[scotty 252]

Hi will it hurt anything to leave worn out rubber engine mounts if it vibrates pretty bad

[WHX?? 49,207]

Probably one of the best things one can do to a shaker plate motor. 

 

Wheel Horse Solid Engine Mounts (zkbrmachine.com)

 

 

Edited October 4, 2022 by WHX??

[Snoopy11 5,714]

22 minutes ago, scotty said:

Hi will it hurt anything to leave worn out rubber engine mounts if it vibrates pretty bad

What engine are you talking about?

 

Don

[scotty 252]

A 12 hp kohler

[Ed Kennell 38,817]

Replace them with solid mounts.    The tension on the belts will pull the engine out of alignment with the belts.

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

[WHX?? 49,207]

I think Ed Dog did it on a budget with just spacer washers? 

[Ed Kennell 38,817]

Yeah, a couple pound of flat washers from TSC for $5 worked.

[WHX?? 49,207]

11 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Yeah, a couple pound of flat washers from TSC for $5 worked.

I got another one to do Ed it may come to that. Didn't measure it but bet it pulls the motor a good 1/2 out of alignment.  

Edited October 5, 2022 by WHX??

[pfrederi 17,913]

Eliminate the whole plate set up, use 4 spacers and  couple washers

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

13 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Eliminate the whole plate set up, use 4 spacers and  couple washers

 

You'll also need the lower PTO hoop bracket that bolts to the frame, and you may have to modify the PTO hoop because I don't believe the original one is long enough to reach.  

 

I looked at this when I was thinking about swapping engines on my C-125.  I  think  you can bend the PTO hoop a bit to make it longer, but not certain.

 

I did not check to see if there was a different PTO hoop that is longer and will work without modification.

 

 

ALSO... If you ditch the shaker plate you'll also need to fabricate a bracket for the muffler.

 

 

Edited October 6, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[Snoopy11 5,714]

Huh... now where have I seen that part before...?

 

 

Anybody need a hint...? It's in the box... 👇

 

 

 

Don

[RED-Z06 2,254]

Those shaker plates do tame the beasts...

[WHX?? 49,207]

Not in my herd Red ... I have better results bolting solid. Way less rattling around and smoother operation. 

Personally I would not eliminate the whole plate as Paul suggested nor have I no idea what snoopy or Jeff is yakin about pto hoops.

  I would just spring for  the solid mounts. It's plug and play & alignment is perfect. That's if a tractor is going to stay in my herd. If not I might cobble but really not in my nature.  

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

31 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

no idea what snoopy or Jeff is yakin about pto hoops.

 

If you take out the shaker plate, since the PTO hoop rests in the shaker plate, you need to provide a resting place for the hoop.

 

Enter the bracket Snoop sent me when I was contemplating swapping the engine on my C125.  I was going to remove the shaker and bolt the replacement engine direct to the frame.  That bracket is the one used on NON shaker manchines.

 

As you can see from the photo, the hoop would be too short to reach that bracket and would need to be lengthened.  I suspect that the non shaker manchines use a different hoop.

 

 

[Handy Don 12,495]

7 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

If you take out the shaker plate, since the PTO hoop rests in the shaker plate, you need to provide a resting place for the hoop.

 

Enter the bracket Snoop sent me when I was contemplating swapping the engine on my C125.  I was going to remove the shaker and bolt the replacement engine direct to the frame.  That bracket is the one used on NON shaker manchines.

 

As you can see from the photo, the hoop would be too short to reach that bracket and would need to be lengthened.  I suspect that the non shaker manchines use a different hoop.

Agreeing that you need the bracket to hold the hoop.

NOT agreeing that the hoop needs lengthening. Doing so will almost certainly mis-align the PTO thrust attachment.

Once the shaker is off, then the engine either:

a) moves directly down onto frame aligned with the the top of the Snoop bracket in the same relative position as it was on the shaker plate. Hoop drops right in. (Hmmm, that moves the crankshaft position down as well. Not good. Or,

b) insert spacers under the engine to keep the vertical position correct and make/use a bracket with a vertical offset (this one wasn't designed for shaker plate tractors)

Edited October 6, 2022 by Handy Don

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

On 10/5/2022 at 9:16 PM, Handy Don said:

Agreeing that you need the bracket to hold the hoop.

NOT agreeing that the hoop needs lengthening.

Once the shaker is off, then the engine either:

a) moves directly down onto the top of the Snoop bracket in the same relative position as it was on the shaker plate. Hoop drops right in. (Hmmm, that moves the crankshaft position down as well. Not good. Or...

b) put the engine atop the new bracket atop spacers to the frame to keep the vertical engine position good and now the bracket is STILL directly under the engine and the hoop drops right in.

 

The engine I was going to use has the deeper 2 quart oil pan and that taller pan would leave the hoop in the same relative position (same as using the spacers under an engine with the smaller, shorter, oil pan) and the hoop would not reach the bracket.  It would need to be lengthened

 

In that photo I'm holding the bracket in the position it would be in when bolted to the frame.

 

 

 

Edited October 16, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[Handy Don 12,495]

your reply, Jeff, caught me in the middle of editing my original post -- Sorry!

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

your reply, Jeff, caught me in the middle of editing my original post -- Sorry!

 

I edited my post also!

 

If I did continue with the swap I was thinking of adding a vertical offset to the bracket, or adding material to the hoop to lengthen it (probably the easier option)

 

 

[RED-Z06 2,254]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Not in my herd Red ... I have better results bolting solid. Way less rattling around and smoother operation. 

Personally I would not eliminate the whole plate as Paul suggested nor have I no idea what snoopy or Jeff is yakin about pto hoops.

  I would just spring for  the solid mounts. It's plug and play & alignment is perfect. That's if a tractor is going to stay in my herd. If not I might cobble but really not in my nature.  

The C160 i got is the first shaker model ive had, i was really taken by surprise how smooth it was, i only get about ¼" total deflection with the pto engaged and its pulling too tight as it is but that unit will never see an implement 

[WHX?? 49,207]

OK fellas.. now we got poor old Scotty really confused. You guys are talkin engine & base pan swaps... and making  pto hoops work. Whole different ball game and might be a good topic for another thread. Me thinks Scotty's rubber mounts are shot and wants to retain the orginal motor and shaker plate. Right or wrong @scotty? 

Easiest way out is just order Kerber's solids.

[WHX?? 49,207]

2 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

 only get about ¼" total deflection with the pto engaged and its pulling too tight as it is but that unit will never see an implement 

True Red as long as it won't see an implement off the pto. Guess it almost depends on how bad the rubber mounts are. 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

19 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

talkin engine & base pan swaps

 

Paul mentioned ditching the shaker plate and that's what took us off on the tangent.

 

I agree, keep the shaker and go solid mounts.  Either from Zack or a stack of washers.  Less work.

 

 

[WHX?? 49,207]

3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 took us off on the tangent.

What  who where... I never go off on a tangent... maybe EB does but...

[SylvanLakeWH 26,005]

8 hours ago, WHX?? said:

What  who where... I never go off on a tangent... maybe EB does but...

 

Squirrel!!!

 

On topic: Stack of washers… easy. 

Edited October 6, 2022 by SylvanLakeWH