18 Auto Transaxle Question

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

I have managed to remove the Right Hub with a makeshift puller. 

However, the Left is another story, blew my puller apart, broke above the welds!

Lol I can't recall if the Bull Gear can be disassembled with one half of the housing off?

Even if I cut off the axle cover on the Left to gain some extra length to get behind the Bull Gear?

Or, is there room enough for a wrench without sacrificing my Left axle cover?

(Borrowed photograph)

 

Edited September 30, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[daveoman1966 3,758]

Not sure on the D series (18 Auto too) , but...YES... the differential bolts (4 or 5) can be removed if you can get the trans case halfs far enough apart o reach in with long wrench/sockets to take them out, one by one.  I've done this on a C-160 that had immoveable hubs like yours. 

 

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,351]

Not sure if you can get to the backside of the bill gear with just one side off. Either way you need to change those bolts that hold the gear together!! Upgrade to at least grade 8 or better. That was the weak link in these pre 76’ D series. 

[953 nut 55,743]

With half of the case off and quite a bit of axle exposed that is in the other case half you should be able to push the axle with the hub through far enough to unbolt the differential and remove the snap ring.

McMaster Carr has the good stuff, don't mess around with local sources for bolts and nuts for your differential. Here is a copy of my order for a 953 differential, your bolt and nut size probably is not the same.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

I will give it a try should be able to get this done then press the hub. I "think" the bolts are 3.5, know soon enough!

I also wanted to know if the parts from a D-160 Transaxle would fit? I would venture to say yes...

No, I would not use the bolts! Lol

Edited September 30, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,195]

Here I reworked the Puller, 5/8th's 8" grade 8 bolts VS round stock.

(Better penetrating welds as this was a weak spot on the prototype.)

Now, on a properly, installed hub, "never seize" and cleaned axle, this puller is great.

The stuck hub probably on since 1973, that will need special attention, just glad to get the first one off before breaking the prototype

 

Now this is designed to work in unison with a bearing splitter behind the very end of the hub.

I used these arms as they were not used for anything else and had the needed slot, otherwise would of prefered the wider jaws...

Edited September 30, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"