JerryLook 73 #1 Posted September 24, 2022 I was cleaning under the tractor today and noticed my hydro fan is missing most of the blades. I’m in upstate NY and don’t use the tractor in warm weather very often. Is this fan important for normal operation? I assume they wouldn’t have put it there if it wasn’t necessary. Is it easy to change out? Looks like if I take the rear wheel off I’d have good access to the fan. I haven’t cleaned this area since I’ve owned the tractor. It might have been like this when I got it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Freightliner Guy 1,331 #2 Posted September 24, 2022 I think that fan used to be bigger I don’t know and o don’t think that’s factory it looks like it’s something someone just put on there to help with cooling Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,864 #3 Posted September 24, 2022 It is whats left of the cooling fan WH # 108393 Also you should clean the fins on the hydro... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryLook 73 #4 Posted September 24, 2022 Awesome. Thanks for the info. And part number. Looks like the fan is about 25$. Not bad at all. Hopefully I can just pull the center bolt out and the fan will come right off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,443 #5 Posted September 24, 2022 56 minutes ago, pfrederi said: It is whats left of the cooling fan WH # 108393 Also you should clean the fins on the hydro... ... and YES the fan (along with clean hydro fins) is important. Hydros generate a fair amount of heat from the fluid friction inside. BTW the screw holding the fan is a righty tighty-lefty loosey! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,482 #6 Posted September 24, 2022 It looks like it had a "territorial dispute" with either a can opener or a buzzsaw!! There was someone selling an aluminum direct replacement on the "Bay a while ago .... Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,309 #7 Posted September 24, 2022 They get "sawed off all the time if you do any deep grass Baja-ing! I ran over some brush one day with mine and SKEEERUNCH! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #8 Posted September 25, 2022 Just one bolt in the center holds it. That bolt will be clamping down on the plastic fan so you shouldn’t make it extremely tight, so use threadlocker to keep it tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #9 Posted September 25, 2022 (edited) I replaced the hydro fan on my 312-A not long ago - it was pretty easy. Well, compared to changing out the hydro pump itself, which I also did, the fan is a piece of cake. $25 seems like a lot for a piece of plastic, but it is what it is. Next is my GT-1848. I think it looks about the same as yours. Edited September 25, 2022 by davem1111 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryLook 73 #10 Posted September 27, 2022 I might look for a metal alternative. Anyone know the fan diameter and shaft hole size? I can figure out the latter from mine, but not the former. There’s a metal fan that fits some other WH. It’s part number “fan blade 4386”. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #11 Posted September 27, 2022 The plastic fan just might last longer than a metal one and likely moves more air. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryLook 73 #12 Posted September 28, 2022 True. And this fan is probably the original. 30+ years isn’t bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,309 #13 Posted September 28, 2022 (edited) Finding a good metal fan off of a WH is as easy as finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. They are always bent ,cracked or both They are held on with 4 bolts instead of one. Refrigeration fans might do the trick https://www.rhsparts.com/Products/Fan-Blades Edited September 28, 2022 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryLook 73 #14 Posted October 20, 2022 The spring for the tensioner pulley is broken. I noticed it while looking at the fan again. The mower still drives, but it would probably help to have a new spring. Does it hook into the hole below the dangling spring in pic number 2? Any idea what size spring I need? I’m missing half of mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,443 #15 Posted October 20, 2022 (edited) Mine attaches here to a bolt through the frame with a hole drilled through its end for the spring to thread through. (520-H) Edited October 20, 2022 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryLook 73 #16 Posted October 20, 2022 Ok thanks. I’ll look and see if I have that same bolt. I was curious how much tension was on the spring. Looking at yours, it looks like it’s pulled pretty tight. I might have a spring in my stash that will work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryLook 73 #17 Posted October 22, 2022 Ok I found a spring to replace mine. Also after seeing your pic @Handy Don I know how to get access to that area now. Thanks. My 416 does have the same stud your 520 has. I had to remove the tensioner pulley to get the spring off, and new one on. Do you guys oil the pulleys at all? There is no grease fitting on it. I was thinking about oiling it with some light motor oil. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #18 Posted October 22, 2022 4 minutes ago, JerryLook said: I had to remove the tensioner pulley to get the spring off, and new one on. Do you guys oil the pulleys at all? There is no grease fitting on it. I was thinking about oiling it with some light motor oil. If the pulley doesn't spin smoothly, replace it. The bearing has grease inside and will run for many years. There are many points under the covers that can benefit from a drop of oil, the pivot point of the tensioner is just one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #19 Posted October 22, 2022 @Handy Don notice that flat idler opportunity ? wide rubber side grease shields ? small flat putty knife , red aerosol grease , just sayin , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #20 Posted October 22, 2022 @JerryLook made a regular clean / change out of original " grease " in all my pulleys , and spindle drives , also mule drive bearings and pto drive bearings . as lubricant starts to fail , and drag increases on the belt to pully area , the rising heat , makes it whine with noise , and drag with heat . bearings get smoking hot, use a minimum of red grease , on a cleaned out bearing , prefer 540 + HEAT RATING to stay with the bearings . I use a small flat putty knife , to carefully pry out the side shields , while you are there , why not insure your work ? only a suggestion , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,443 #21 Posted October 22, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, JerryLook said: Ok I found a spring to replace mine. Also after seeing your pic @Handy Don I know how to get access to that area now. Thanks. My 416 does have the same stud your 520 has. Glad to hear you're making progress! Sometimes ya gotta just remove the wheel! 50 minutes ago, peter lena said: @Handy Don notice that flat idler opportunity ? wide rubber side grease shields ? small flat putty knife , red aerosol grease , just sayin , pete That bearing got dosed when I had the whole thing apart to refurb the shaft's pivots with bushings about 10 operating hours ago--don't you notice the quirky paint job and how clean it still is? Edited October 22, 2022 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #22 Posted October 22, 2022 @Handy Don sorry , did not realize that that " quirky " was a paint stage , good going , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
