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davidfindlay

Seeing flame

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, davidfindlay said:

Done :)

Dave your name looks really good in red

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The Freightliner Guy

My favorite color is green but if I wanted my name green I’d have to be dead :mellow:

 

yeah no thanks and congratulations for becoming a supporter 

Edited by The Freightliner Guy
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pacer

Good on ya, Dave!!! 

 

Over the yrs I have belonged to some 20 odd forums and this group is hands down THE best of all I been members of....:handgestures-thumbupright:

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oliver2-44

One heads up on removing the head. The bolts near the exhaust outlet can be heat/rust seized. With the fire coming out the bolts in that area may be hard to remove as well. Give all the head bolts a soak with your favorite penetrant several times for a few days. When you try to remove them tighten them slightly before loosening. Once they move given them another shot of penetrant and work them back and forth as you remove them. 

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Pullstart
4 hours ago, davidfindlay said:

 

I definitely don't want to give up on it: this has been the best tractor I've had.


wanna know what’s even better?  Another!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

Edited by Pullstart
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Pullstart
4 hours ago, davidfindlay said:

 

 

Edited by Pullstart

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pacer
22 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

bolts near the exhaust outlet can be heat/rust seized.

This is a VERY good possibility!! I recently pulled the head on a K241 just for an inspection (like you will be doing) and the 2 at the exhaust came out painfully, and on reinstall both stripped, I learned long ago to keep a supply of 'Heli-coils' on hand so was able to quickly do a repair. Heh, those Heli-coils - gotta love em!!!

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OoPEZoO

I went through this earlier this year as well on my K321.  Blew a pencil sized hole in the head.  I bought a used replacement head, wet sanded it flat, new head gasket, new bolts, new spark plug, new points and condenser just for good measure.  It fired right back up and is running like a champ again.  These Kohlers are amazing how durable they are.  Even with the big hole I had, I still drove it back to the garage and it never stopped running.

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Pullstart
32 minutes ago, pacer said:

This is a VERY good possibility!! I recently pulled the head on a K241 just for an inspection (like you will be doing) and the 2 at the exhaust came out painfully, and on reinstall both stripped, I learned long ago to keep a supply of 'Heli-coils' on hand so was able to quickly do a repair. Heh, those Heli-coils - gotta love em!!!


lots of “um”s in this video, I like to think I’ve improved that!  Those bolts are STUBBORN!

 

 

 

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Pullstart

And then there was this…

 

 

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Pullstart

But there is hope!

 

 

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Heatingman

The other trick I learned from a machinist was using left hand drill bits to remove broken bolts.

 

I have never once had success with an easy out on a bolt, but Ive successfully used a left hand drill bit dozens of time.

 

 

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ri702bill
14 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Those bolts are STUBBORN!

Kevin - the heat from the welding process can be beneficial in removing the broken bolt too.

We had to do the same to a 1981 Kawasaki oil drain plug that the PO had overzealously tightened and rounded off the hex socket - we MIG welded the nut over it - came right out - my son left it that way ....

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Pullstart
49 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Kevin - the heat from the welding process can be beneficial in removing the broken bolt too.

We had to do the same to a 1981 Kawasaki oil drain plug that the PO had overzealously tightened and rounded off the hex socket - we MIG welded the nut over it - came right out - my son left it that way ....


I agree… most times it helps greatly.  That block, and the 1.5-ish inch long rusted threads weren’t gonna have anything to do with it.  I should have used my oxy-acetylene torch and warmed the block externally!

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davidfindlay

I was lucky and the head came off easily. I’m guessing this hole shouldn’t be here…

19BFDE3D-96FC-42F3-9DBE-2F011472A47C.jpeg

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A7256800-D3B7-4AF2-9F5F-42F2267602F6.jpeg

B8185E76-CA93-430E-A565-7B92A067A72F.jpeg

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squonk

Nope that hole shouldn't be there. It's repairable if you can find someone who welds aluminum. I have that head available. PM me for details

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ineedanother
48 minutes ago, davidfindlay said:

I was lucky and the head came off easily. I’m guessing this hole shouldn’t be here…

 

No, and if that head gasket was leaking where it is damaged, it might have contributed to the failure of the head.

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OoPEZoO

That is almost identical to the failure I had earlier this year.  Also a blown head gasket......pretty sure it had been that way for awhile, but I had been choosing to ignore it.  Tractor used to start acting up after about an hour of mowing.  Pretty sure it was sucking air in and running super lean.  Then one day.....it got real loud, real fast.  Thats when it popped the hole in the head.  All is well now with a replacement head, but still kicking myself for ignoring it as long as I did.  

 

tCC620A17-4513-426E-AF60-05CA116486C6.jpeg.3676dbd167399043b5d61c0a9ff6d0e6.jpeg

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davidfindlay

I bought squonk’s spare head and I just ordered the gasket from Lincoln at A-Z just now. Thanks again for the help everyone.

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Bill D
3 hours ago, davidfindlay said:

I bought squonk’s spare head and I just ordered the gasket from Lincoln at A-Z just now. Thanks again for the help everyone.

Don't reuse the head bolts. Buy new grade 8 bolts before installing the head.  Save the old washers as they are thicker than most standard washers.

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davidfindlay
29 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Don't reuse the head bolts. Buy new grade 8 bolts before installing the head.  Save the old washers as they are thicker than most standard washers.

 

Do you happen to know the specs for them (TPI or whatever)? I have the engine service manual but it's not searchable as it's old.

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Bill D

Standard grade 8 bolts from your local hardware store will be fine.  Just make sure they're the same length and preferably made in the USA.  Oil the threads and torque to spec.  

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