wallfish 17,000 #51 Posted October 21, 2022 12 hours ago, ebinmaine said: It would be nice not to have to remove it until later if I could avoid doing so Pull the whole grommet and shut off out. Spray or soak with your choice of chemical or cleaner, spray the krap out of it with a hose after it's drained. Make sure it's dry with air after the hose. water will sit in places below the hole. Pull the whole thing when you need to change the trans 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #52 Posted October 21, 2022 7 hours ago, wallfish said: water will sit in places below the hole. Now that's interesting information... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,000 #53 Posted October 21, 2022 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Now that's interesting information... The tank won't empty 100% totally through the petcock naturally. And especially when the grommet is in there because of the higher edge of the grommet inside on the bottom of the tank. Water is heavier and will sit in the low spots. So will heavy debris. Tilting and shaking the tank may get it out but you would have to have the tank out. It's not much but best to dry it out so the future stuff in there has a place to sit. I have a bad habit of running out of gas (Ask @Sparky, lol) so if you ever look inside a tank, you'll always see there's still a small amount in there that didn't make it out. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,904 #54 Posted October 21, 2022 2 hours ago, wallfish said: I have a bad habit of running out of gas (Ask @Sparky, lol) so if you ever look inside a tank, you'll always see there's still a small amount in there that didn't make it out. Unless you have a cast aluminum round hood tank, where the fuel does empty out completely with no bung or grommet 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,265 #55 Posted October 21, 2022 Probably want to change out the rubber grommet anyway. If you flush with water a small amount of methyl alcohol (a pint or less) will absorb the water and can be emptied leaving even less water in the tank. Most gas line antifreeze is methyl alcohol. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #56 Posted October 23, 2022 Trina and I set up the pressure washer and I gave the whole tractor a fair spraying yesterday. We got to looking at it and decided that - knowing we need to remove & split the transmission we would wait a few weeks for the new shop building (most importantly it's concrete floor) to be usable for us and put the whole Wallyho Digger in for a transmission swap while the gas tank is being swapped out. We plan to use it for leveling out and creating a ramp in front of the shop. Otherwise BBT has no specific plans for usage of the tractor until spring (gardening) or later winter (snowbank removal) so we'll take the time now for repairs. I'm putting the transmission swap question thread here for my own recording... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,000 #57 Posted October 23, 2022 Wondering Use the hydraulics to tripod the hoe with the 2 stabilizers and the bucket, then support on jack stands. Remove all the bolts holding the hoe to the trans and the 3/4 pin to the old hitch location, drop the hoe pump off of the sub-frame. Could that thing just roll forward and slid right out of the hoe mounts with everything else still together? Keep soaking the 4 pins holding the hoe frame to the tractor mount frame. I got so sick of mounting, unmounting, mounting, unmounting that thing when it was being built that anti seize was never done on those pins or any of them. Just figured I'd deal with that later on if need be and as it turns out, I don't ever have to! LoL Sorry 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #58 Posted October 23, 2022 2 hours ago, wallfish said: . Just figured I'd deal with that later on if need be and as it turns out, I don't ever have to! LoL Sorry No worries John! We'll get it taken care of. Removing the pump now .... Was that meant to drop down from the tractor for removal? Is it belt drive off the OE PTO pulley. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,000 #59 Posted October 23, 2022 Personally, I wouldn't drop anything or change anything just yet. Just use it like it is until you guys get used to using it, see where and why there are certain ways to use it and what to do and comfortable with all the operations of it. Changing the trans only to damage another axle bearing is a waste of time IMO. The tractor drives and operates just fine as it is now but I wouldn't drive it a 1/2 mile into the woods to work it back there just yet. You're going to cause something else that's needs fix'n just by learning how to use it so get that learning curve out of the way first before changing fixing modifying updating painting etc etc. Once you start using it constantly to work you will understand why this is my recommendation. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #60 Posted November 24, 2022 On 10/23/2022 at 1:22 PM, wallfish said: Personally, I wouldn't drop anything or change anything just yet. Just use it like it is until you guys get used to using it, see where and why there are certain ways to use it and what to do and comfortable with all the operations of it. Changing the trans only to damage another axle bearing is a waste of time IMO. The tractor drives and operates just fine as it is now but I wouldn't drive it a 1/2 mile into the woods to work it back there just yet. You're going to cause something else that's needs fix'n just by learning how to use it so get that learning curve out of the way first before changing fixing modifying updating painting etc etc. Once you start using it constantly to work you will understand why this is my recommendation. The BBT and I talked about the above info and decided to wait a bit on your advice. We'll run it a few times then swap out the transmission later. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #61 Posted November 24, 2022 Today I played seat replacement technician. Seat is an aftermarket something or other from the parts shelf. The mounting holes to bracket were 1" off fore n aft so I made a spacer out of a piece of square tubing. I cut the two sides off which resulted in 2 pieces of flat metal. Pics tell the story... 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #63 Posted December 18, 2022 Looks like you have a project moving all that snow... beats a shovel 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #64 Posted December 19, 2022 4 hours ago, pfrederi said: Looks like you have a project moving all that snow... beats a shovel Yes it does!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #65 Posted January 27, 2023 I took a half day yesterday. Got home about 11:00. Set for a bit and when I got outside around 12:30 or 1:00 the 6" or 7" of snow followed by several hours of freezing rain... then some sunshine and a little bit warmer temperatures.... All that had settled into about 3 or 4 inches of absolute muck slush super heavy snow. I did clear a fair amount of it with the snow blower and it was doing okay but I just really needed something a little heavier duty so I whipped out the Wally Digger machine Front End Loader and put that big beast to work. Last time I used it I had noted a leak on one of the front end loader hoses. I got the replacement for that. Installed it yesterday. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #66 Posted January 27, 2023 Questions for those that have FEL... I need to replace the drive belt that goes from the engine to the fluid pump. Is that a standard belt? Or is it something I really just need to pop off and bring to the parts store? I'm assuming that's a regular RUBBER-SIDED BELT? Also, I'd like to replace the fluid in this whole front hydraulic system. Is there a particular specialty procedure that I should be doing? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,265 #67 Posted January 27, 2023 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: just need to pop off and bring to the parts store? Just match it up, mine is a cloth lined belt and isn't extremely tight, works fine. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #68 Posted January 27, 2023 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: whipped out the Wally Digger machine Front End Loader and put that big beast to work Work. Right. Hmmm. Looks to me more like some folks are reveling in having so much area to clear of snow! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #69 Posted January 27, 2023 4 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Work. Right. Hmmm. Looks to me more like some folks are reveling in having so much area to clear of snow! I'd say your statement is closer to the truth!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #70 Posted January 27, 2023 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Also, I'd like to replace the fluid in this whole front hydraulic system. Is there a particular specialty procedure that I should be doing? I did find a procedure to change the oil in my Kwik-Way, but I can't find it right now. Do some searching, it's out there somewhere. I would think that all brands would be about the same. If I recall correctly, the cylinders were unpinned at one end and then stroked to pump them out. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,708 #71 Posted January 28, 2023 @ebinmaine My loader belt is a standard automotive belt like you’d find at any auto parts store. I’ve never changed the fluid so I’m curious about the proper procedure. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #72 Posted January 28, 2023 22 minutes ago, c-series don said: @ebinmaine My loader belt is a standard automotive belt like you’d find at any auto parts store. I’ve never changed the fluid so I’m curious about the proper procedure. Don I found what appears to be a good usable procedure for an older FEL on My Tractor Forum. I don't know if it's ok to post links so I'll PM that link to you. 10 hours ago, lynnmor said: I did find a procedure to change the oil in my Kwik-Way, but I can't find it right now. Do some searching, it's out there somewhere. I would think that all brands would be about the same. If I recall correctly, the cylinders were unpinned at one end and then stroked to pump them out. I found several posts on different sites that offered different advice. Likely they'd all work the same in the end..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,904 #73 Posted January 28, 2023 I’d run the supply suction hose to a bucket of fresh stuff, and a return drain hose from the tank and fire up the pump a little at a time until it runs cleaner out the tank, or something like that. You could bypass the tank too. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan.gerous 2,696 #74 Posted January 30, 2023 Haven't been about for a few months, but great to see you got the FEL and Backhoe! I bet you get a ton of use out of it. Watching developments and projects with interest as usual. Dan 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #75 Posted January 30, 2023 Just now, Dan.gerous said: Haven't been about for a few months, but great to see you got the FEL and Backhoe! I bet you get a ton of use out of it. Watching developments and projects with interest as usual. Dan Hiya Dan! Yeah buddy this has been one of the most amazing things we've been given the opportunity to purchase. Incredibly handy. I mentioned something about that phrasing of words to my female person the other day and she said, Oh yeah! I've got big plans for that in the spring and summer! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites