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Showing results for tags 'wheel'.
Found 8 results
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I just picked this up at an auction, I know its some type of suburban, but have no clue on the model. It has a small Tecumseh on it
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My 1054 is a very strong horse, but it has an issue that i think is the downside. The issue is the transmittion, it is VERY hard to get into gear. how could i fix this and make it easier shifting, like my 314?
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When going thru my front end I decided to replace the front wheel bearings, the real common 1 3/8" x 3/4". After getting a set of four off ebay they came with the grease seals on both the outside and inside. Question is should I remove the seals on the backside and continue to grease thru the zerk or let them ride as sealed bearings? My inclination is to let them ride as sealed bearings.
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In a previous thread, several folks asked me how I painted my rims with tires already mounted. I recently did another set, so I illustrated the process as I did it. Typically, I like to paint the rims after they are mounted anyways, because inevitably when you have tires mounted on painted rims you’ll always scratch or nick them somewhere. I like to get the rims all cleaned up, blasted and primed, then mount my tires. Here’s my process: 1) Rims were sandblasted and primed with self-etching primer. Tires and tubes were mounted. Everything was wiped down with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover prior to taping. 2) Using blue 3M tape, I go all the way around the rim slipping the tape between the rubber and rim occasionally tucking it tight with a very small standard screwdriver. 3) Then I create a wider tape ring a few inches out from the rim lip. 4) Slide the whole thing into a kitchen garbage bag. 5) Cut a hole in the bag revealing your tape ring below. 6) Tape the bag to your tape ring previously created on the tire. 7) For silver rims, I like Eastwood Silver Argent rally wheel paint and I use a Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html 8) I wipe the rims down a few more times with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover, blow them off with the gun, then shoot two coats of color and two coats of clear. I find that the Rust-Oleum clear holds a much better shine if you don’t let it set long between coats. As soon as it flashes, hit it with round 2. I do all four coats in about 20 minutes.- 18 replies
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Bucket Loaders vs. smaller tractors...Help on ideas, and a direction to go
HorseHead1089 posted a topic in Implements and Attachments
OK......I'm aware of the few front end loader threads recently and through searches here and through Google i just thought id make a place here for my own hopeful plethora of info. Well through my friends father i will be acquiring a 603 or 633 some such series round hood for Free.99!! Anyways my parents LOVE to mulch the flower beds and i happen to hate it unless i can play with my tractors. I guess you can see where this is going. I have searched far and wide on hydraulics vs electric actuators, and have noticed for such porpoises of moving mulch, and maintenance each seem to be good candidates. as far as a front end loader i have found a REAR end loader. Now will this benefit over a FEL by reasoning of less wear of front components since its a smaller tractor, and i thinks from the way it looks could be smaller/easier to move off and on. As far as getting it into the trailer, i could see the FEL prevailing in this category. ow would a rear end loader be able to ascend to a height? it doesn't look good from these pictures but there are ramps i could just back it up onto the trailer. and dont worry about it tipping as we have a silverado or '48 Farmall Super A to keep it held down. I have these pictures to get the conversation started. (yes I know ones a Sears and ones a Cubby) -
Restoration of 1976 B-80 This Album is Dedicated to the complete restoration of my Father 1976 Wheel Horse B-80, It was recovered from a fiel sitting on it's side painter John Deere colors. I brought it home in the summer of 07 and have spent 7 years gathering all original part to restore it to its original showroom condition How am I doing.... I would like to hear all comment on this -
Is there a source which lists the original wheel color that came with a specific model? I have a 208-3, 310-8, 212-6, C-165, Command 8, and a B-111 ... most running, some not. Some have white wheels, some off-white, and the 310-8 has silver. The owners manuals don't specify, or the parts manuals ... maybe all models changed wheel color as the years progressed? Any inputs will be appreciated!
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I became a little curious when researching the PTO RPMs of older Wheel Horse, John Deere and Cub Cadets. I read that "Woods Equipment" fabricated the Wheel Horse D finishing mowers back in the 70's and maybe the 80's and these mowers were belt driven, and I'm guessing had large pulley that appeared to reduce the 2000 RPM to a more manageable/safe speed. Mike Duwe from other forum (weekendfreedommachines.com) discovered that John Deere and Cub Cadet also had REAR PTOs with 2000 RPMs similar to the D Series Wheel Horses. Because of this, is it possible the John Deere 260 Finishing Mower and the Cub Cadet L42 Model 349 would fit the D Series Wheel Horse? I'm not sure of the rotation direction, spline and diameter differences between Wheel Horse and John Deere are, but this would make finding a D Series finishing mower slightly easier. Woods Wheel Horse John Deere Cub Cadet Citations: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/232953.html?1205075077 http://www.woodsequipment.com/default.aspx Other Links: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/139036.html
