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For some of us who own the Vacuum Bagger attachment, I always wondered if it could be adapted to being a leaf bagger blowing the leaves into a trailer towed behind my 312-8 WH. Well, yes it can. So I am providing some pictures of what I did and did this on a budget. The flexible hose is a clear leaf vacuum hose bought from "Ken Jones Tires" out of Worcester, MA. They sell a bunch of different length, sizes and grades. Mine is is 7" in diameter by 6' long PVC model. It connects to 2 - 7" stove pipe right angle pieces I picked up at Lowes. Very hard to find 7" pipe connection. Only two on the shelf. The hose clamps I had to take two of them and put them together to make them large enough to fit around the hose. As to attaching the hose pipe to the Vac Blower, I bought some flat steel pieces 1" x 1/16" thick x 24" long at Home Depot and bent that piece to fit the shape of the square exit of the blower. I then bent a 2" x 1/16" x 24" long piece to be round ring which will fit inside the stove pipe (non-crimped end). I then welded the ends together and grinded my welds down. I fit the square piece inside the round piece and cut short supports ( 4 total) connecting the flat side of the square support to the round support. I then traced the frame onto a flat sheet of this steel cutting out the square hole and cutting the circle part so this will enclose all the gaps between the square support and circle support. I then used Liquid Nails to fill in the gaps between the sheet metal and frame supports since welding all the sheet metal will melt numerous holes in the thin metal. After the Liquid Nails dries, I drilled 1/4" holes (4 total) thru the support frame on my drill press thru the flats sides and then fitted long SS bolts with wing nuts, lock washers and washers. I then put the pre-drilled frame on the blower and drilled the 4 holes again that will take the 4 bolts. The stove pipe is fitted to the round frame by drilling every inch or so and used a pneumatic rivet gun to secure the stove pipe to the steel frame. As for the trailer I wanted the leaves to be dropped from the top and not be pushed in from the front so I could hold a tad more. Enclosed in the top wood triangle is a curved piece of aluminum that deflects the leaves downward so it does not collect and plug up the top part. I then filled any gaps inside the triangle box with expanding foam so seal all cracks up. I have a 8" gap running the width of the trailer on the top with a 1/2" wide mesh screen over it for air flow to come out but still hold the leaves inside for the most part. I changed my blades to Gator Blades by Oregon to mulch up the leaves to smaller pieces. I found the regular blades did not do enough chopping that was really needed to avoid the hose from plugging up. The regular blades were still sending full size oak leaves into the blower. I also attached two spring handle holders on the side so these can hold a rake sideways on the side of the trailer. My rear door is hinged at the top to swing up and I can rake the leaves out. If I have a clog (usually at the exit point), I use the end of the rake handle to break it up while the blower is on and it will eventually come out. CONS: 1.Gator Blades do have a lot of under deck blow. So, I let the leaves pile up under my tractor keeping the tractor in 1st or 2nd gear Low speed. You may have to raise and lower the deck as needed to get the leaves to flower under the deck. 2. Your lawn will never look carpet clean. Gator blades mulch so much there will always be leaves here and there. 3. Clean your mower deck with a blower every time you empty your trailer. Leaves can get in between the pulleys and the belts begin to lose grip and the blower will slow down thus clogging the hose up. It is noticeable as the leaves move slower thru the hose to a point they stop mid way 4. Wet leaves suck. I mean, do not do this with wet leaves. Clogs all the time. 5. You have to watch the hose carefully on you turns so you do not turn too sharp either way. I have to make something with a spring and arm that hold my hose away from the tractor as I move a long. I found numerous times the stove pipe ends would turn to a point where the hose was rubbing against my wheel. and 6. Too much stress on the stove pipe joints (a turn where you are stretching the hose to far) will pull the flex joint apart. I popped mine back together and used duct tape to strengthen the joint. Otherwise, it works! Cost of the hose $80 with S/H, Gator blades $65, Stove Pipe ends $8 each, flat steel $25, lumber $40. Cyclone Rake, which I know is way better is $1200++. Co-Worker just got one for his 520 WH.....
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