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Showing results for tags 'tiller'.
Found 40 results
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need some help hooking up a tiller. I just bought a 69' model 1-6241 raider 12 and a tiller separate from another seller. I have the tiller mounted, but have trouble with the belt and Pulleys... or lack there of pulleys. here is where I'm currently stuck
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looking for a tiller for my 520h as well as some wheel weights. also maybe some good chrome hubcaps located in charlotte nc area
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1989 Wheel Horse 520H Selling my 1989 Wheel Horse 520H. It has hydro transmission and has hydraulic lift. I bought this tractor last November from the original owner with the intent to use it just in the winter. I have a 416-8 that I use for cutting grass, but also have a snow blade. I am selling this because I decided I want power steering so I bought a different garden tractor. I put in a new fuel filter, fuel lines, new spark plugs and oil was changed with a new filter put in. It has 115 compression on both cylinders. The carb needs work, but it does start and run. I no longer have room for it. 1790 hours. I am in Germantown, Wisconsin. Comes with: -42” Deck -Two- Single Stage Snowblowers, one is attached. -Tiller -Snow Plow -Hard Top, Soft Sided Cab, in good shape -Hubcaps -Cast Iron Weights -Chains -New Battery -New Snowblower Belt Price: $1100 Cross Posted.
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Troy Bilt Pony Tiller Gearbox Overhaul- Binding Up
oliver2-44 posted a topic in non tractor related discussion
Anyone have any Troy Bilt Pony Tiller Gear Box Experience? So about a year ago an older neighbor gave me this Troy Bilt Pony Rear Tine tiller. Said he forgot he drained the engine oil and started it. Bore diameter was actually good, but has a bunch of large vertical scars on cylinder walls. Fast forward, my wife has volunteered us to help a Youth Summer Camp that runs an "Outdoor School" during the 9mth school year. They had a fairly large garden for several years, but it has been neglected & overgrown for a couple of years. So she drives past this neglected garden daily! There's some scheme emerging where we have half the garden to ourselves and help with the other half where students will plant and weed and pick their produce. I enjoy a garden, but not real keen on some of the aspects on this one...( a bunch of 6" high raised beds with paths to narrow for my big feet to turn sideways. But I've already been committed, O I mean volunteered. So engine is shot (aluminum block) but I have a Predator or a K181 I could put on it. The wheel shaft seals looked shot and had a bunch of play so brass wheel bushings were shot. (the other 2 shafts have tapered roller bearings). No model number, but from the "Pxxxxx" serial number and Briggs engine I've dated it to a 1981. MTD now owns Troy Bilt and their "on-line manuals" go back to 2000. Called their Tech Supports and got "Deer in the Headlite" comments regarding a 1981 Service Manual. Searched online and founds lots more info on the larger "Horse" model, and a 1991 Pony service manual. While they basically look the same, there's been several generations of re-engineering the internals to simplify manufacturing and eliminate castings it appears. I found this parts diagram to be the close's match to what I have. https://www.partstree.com/models/20462-troy-bilt-pony-i-rear-tine-tiller-sn-p001001-p101750/wheel-tiller-shaft-assemblies-7/ I disassembled it and I think I marked everything as to what faced the front, back or R,L side. Internals looked OK, but the wheel shaft seal area is not the greatest. Most parts are NLA but found bearing. seals & bushings on ebay. $130 Reassembled everything and used the 1991 Service Manual as a "Guide" to shimming the 3 shafts end play. Everything turn freely in both directions when in neutral. But when I engage the Wheel Shaft "Clutch" it binds up. The clutch lets the wheels roll freely or engages them to power. It uses belt idlers to reverse direction from a second shaft on the briggs (like a walk behind snow blower drive) photo from phone here This internal clutch actually works by using a pawl disc which is keyed to the shaft to engage the wheel shaft gear which is free wheeling on the shaft. I've loosened the bolt on the bearing end caps slightly and no change. This uses worm gears and I know "some" worm gears are designed where they must be "power driven" in each direction (My boat lift is like this) So the rear tine gear shaft turn freely in each direction. The wheel shaft locks up when the clutch is engaged amd trying to turn it in what would be the forward direction. But it will turn freely with the clutch engaged if going in the backwards direction. The wheel shaft gear cannot be turned backwards because of the clutch mechanism on the one side. The rear tine shaft bevel gear turn freely in both direction in neutral but is bound up when the clutch on the wheel shaft is engaged.?? There is a Main Drive Shaft that has the Worm Gears on it to drive the Wheel Gear and a second worm to drive the Tines Gear. https://www.partstree.com/models/20462-troy-bilt-pony-i-rear-tine-tiller-sn-p001001-p101750/main-drive-shaft-gear-assemblies-4/ This shaft is made up of a smooth shaft with the worms keyed to it and spacers in between them. I disassembled it (and carefully laid out each piece in order) to wire brush everything clean on the grinder as there was some rust from water in the very bottom of the gearbox. I find it hard to believe that I could have one of the worms backwards because it seems it would not turn freely when the wheel clutch is not engaged?? To remove it I have to disassemble everything and might ruin my seals as I have to drive them out. (dumb me, I tested everything to turn freely before I installed the seals, BUT I didn't engage the clutch) Just a note,, I didn't try to turn everything with the "clutch engaged" "Before" I disassembled it so I don't know how hard it should turn, but it had to turn via a belt drive verse's now totally locking up. Regrettable a nonworking tiller doesn't get me out being volunteered. Did I say I actually enjoy a garden! Thanks for any suggestions and listening to my rant. This is the input shaft from belt pulley Special woodruff key Tiller Tine Shaft Some one was in here before me. These are threaded holes with removable set screws to drive the bearing cone out. No set screws just filled with caulk or body putty. -
Anyone be able to measure out the Top Link Bar for the 50” D Series Tiller? Just finished rebuilding a tiller, have a adjustable type but would like to put a original type on like the manual has listed.
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My 50” D-series tiller input shaft has like 3/16” +\-, play pulling in or out. Anyone else have this same thing. Is it supposed to have that much play? Have it all apart and was thinking of adding a shim or 2nd thrust bearing to lessen the play to at least 1/16”.
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Wheelhorse WT-30 RJ-58 Tiller (k91 driven)
Vaughan32850 posted a topic in Implements and Attachments
Has anyone got a WT-30 tiller they can send pictures if pleas? It’s the one fitted with a K91 engine for RJ models. Many thanks -
Hi all. I am new to the Wheel Horse world and I have a question about attaching a tiller to my 875 before I start spending money. Based on what I've read so far, it sounds like I can use the RT-366 tiller without having the 8-3311 PTO assembly, is this correct? If so, does the RT-366 belt attach to the hydrostatic motor if there is a double pully (#6887) installed?
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Newbie here and I have a 520-H that runs, but needs some TLC and some minor things fixed and/or adjusted. It comes with a like new tiller that I believe has only been used once and has paint still on the tines. I am the 2nd owner and I have personally never used the tiller. I am selling my previous home that I rent and where it has been stored. My current home's yard just isn't big enough to use a rider and I need to find a new home for it. I want to sell them together to simplify and I need them gone in the next 2 weeks. Please reach out with any questions and I'll do my best to answer. I am definitely not as knowledgeable as most of you on this forum, but figured somebody would like to fix it up, part it out and/or needs a tiller. Please email or text.
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Lets make a deal. The whole collection for $3000 or one tractor and half the items listed below for $1500. I am moving to town so am willing to do a partial trade for a wheelhorse more approproiate for a suburban lot- lawn ranger, surburban models, bcs walking tractor, other? I could possibly deliver or meet half-way or ship. Both tractors run great and are in good working order. Second owner of both machines. I work with these machines everyday so they are not perfect but are, in my opinion, in excellent shape. 42in high-shoot snow blower 42 in rear discharge deck Snow blade Front mount deck hanger with 42in side discharge deck 30in lawn seeder Brinly single bottom plow with cleavis or sleeve hitch 50in grader blade Extra transmission 36in rear tiller - leaks a little Full set of tire chains for each tractor Various body pieces 7.5 cubic ft pull behind cart - may need tires Extra set of rims All required belts, pullys, brackets, manuals, too much to list.
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A while ago I picked up a Canadiana 5hp heavy duty tiller. It features forward and reverse control and you could buy add on implements for it. My example unfortunately suffered a catastrofic engine faillure a.k.a. 'window' in the block. Hence it was cheap so I picked it up. The idea I had for it was to mount it on the rear of my 'Murray to IH 1568' build. However since I bought a Wheel Horse i've been thinking about mounting it on the front of that tractor. This is what i'm thinking..
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Kinda rough. I picked it up over the weekend. Not much online about these. What do i have??
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Wheel Horse 1277 with (5) implements included
Bostman67 posted a classfied in Wheel Horse Sold Archive
1967 Wheel Horse 1277 - Kohler K301S, gas engine, belt driven, hydrostatic. I had it running recently but then attempted some electrical work. I also cleaned it up by sanding some rust, dirt and grime off body and engine. Some new parts were added like a new choke cable, ignition switch, head lights, spark plug, battery and battery cables. I have new seat and some other parts that I will never use if sold. The implements include a tiller, snow thrower, mower deck. I've never attached these items. I have some belts and pulleys that came with it when I inherited it. It's easily accessible for removal and showing. IMG_1727.MOV -
Just wanted to show a modification I did to my 1990 310-8. I recently picked up a 36” tiller for my horse and I tried it out on my new garden area. After hitting a rock, it knocked one of the axle brackets open dropping the right side of the tiller. On a manual I viewed, it had clevis pins to hold the lever in, but my bracket did not have them. I drilled a 1/4” hole through on each lever and mounted a 1/4” clevis pin and hairpin cotter to reinforce the lever. I read on another post to just tighten the bolts on the levers, but I think this will work a little better. Hope this helps someone!
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I bought a Raider 14 a couple weeks ago. This is my first wheel horse and I love it. The guy had a couple implements for it (disc and chisel) that were sleeve type attachments. It only had a slot hitch and regular tongue hitch. Today I picked up a rear tiller and clevis hitch from a guy but I cannot figure out how to mount and hook up the tiller. Can anyone give my some pointers? It had a snow plow on it and I removed it. I am just not making sense of how to get it fitted correctly. The rear part of the plow is wider than what the part of the tiller is. Do I need a different bracket? Thanks in advance!
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Needing someone that has one of these WT-30 tillers to please load pictures of the belt tension thingy! We know there has been two at the big show one this past year another the year before! Hopefully they are members here! If so and you would be so kind to help us with this, Thanks in advance! Husband is trying to get ours useable. He got a 32" belt but something isn't going his way! LOL! Every thing we have gotten on this tiller shows a Kohler K91. We have in fact a Clinton 1200 that runs fabulous! The Tiller does not appear to have ever had red paint on it. Engine and tiller paint match. Also we are looking for the speed reduction to slow the tractor, CC-60 conversion assembly! Thanks everyone!
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Hi, hoping that someone may be able to tell me what size spring I need for tensioning the drive belt on a tiller (length and diameter). I have recently purchased a tiller on fleabay which appears to have hardly been used as so much paint is still on the tines. The only part missing is the small spring that attaches to the idler pully and tensions the belt. The instructions are dated 1994 and the model is 79370 and I hope it will fit on to my 72 Raider. The other potential problem that I have is I am unable to remove the bar holding the tow hitch on. I have hit it as hard as I dare but don't want to risk cracking the transmission casing, all I can do is spray it with WD40 every so often and hope it eventually releases. Do you think it would seriously weaken the tiller if I cut out the diagonal bracing bar so I could fit it with the tow hitch in position. Any advice would be appreciated. Andrew
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Hello - Last year I inherited a 1992 Wheel Horse 520-H Garden Tractor and several accessories. I was able to get it started at the end of last summer and drove it around a bit but I am now looking into get something better suited for my current situation. I have absolutely no idea what the tractor and accessories are worth and would love some ballpark numbers from those in the know. I've attached photos and would love any advice as to what I should try to sell these items for. Thanks so much! The tractor is a 528-H model - 1992 289 hours on the hour meeter The mower is a Side Discharge Mower? 48" Snow Dozer Blade - Part No. 810746R1 36" Tiller
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I have a C-145A that I have inherited from my father after his passing. I'm just know realizing what kind of tractor it is. I looking for a tiller and need help with knowing the correct one for the machine again it is a C-145A. Sorry I don't have any pics of the machine at this time. Any help and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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I want to install a Tiller & Dozer blade at the same time>
oliver2-44 posted a topic in Implements and Attachments
I have a large dirt leveling & shaping project coming up down the road. Seat time! I need to be able to loosen up high areas to push them around to level and improve drainage of a 100 ft x 150 ft back yard. The soil is sandy/clay granite gravel. It has enough clay in it to be very hard when very dry, but will dig fairly easily when damp. So I'm starting to think about how to install a tiller and dozer blade on my C-160 at the same time. I wish I could even mount the Tiller and a Center Mount Grader Blade at the same time. But I suspect the blade would hit the front wheels when angled since it would be mounted forward of its normal position, or it would hit the front tiller pulley? One idea I'm thinking of essentially making a double rear axle hitch, one in front of the other. The tiller would mount in the rear mount under the axle in the normal positionn so the pulleys would be in the correct location so the belt length would not change. The dozer blade wound mount in the forward mount, and its lift link would have to be a custom length. I'm thinking I need to make some type of support bracket from each side of the front mount that would mount to the frame. The forward mount would also have to be spaced forward enough so the end of the dozer blade arms would not hit the tiller cross bar in the rear hitch mount.The normal hitch locks probable would not work, so I'm thinking a locking bar would be bolted on to lock both implements in place. The other idea would be one hitch directly below the other in the normal axle position. It would also have to have some type of brace to the forward frame so as to not put a twisting force on the axle. I haven't figured out if there's enough ground clearance to do this type of arrangement. The front dozer blade would be lifted by the existing hydraulic lift and the rear tiller would be lifted by a 2nd rear hydraulic cylinder. Only one implement would be in use at one time. I'm thinking I will make a wood mock up of both ideas to work out some basic details before I start cutting & welding. Has anyone tried this? I would like to learn what worked and what didn't from others. if you haven't tried it, I still like to hear your thoughts on what might work, or potential problems that I haven't thought of yet. Thanks So many projects, got to find a way to make them fun! -
Looking to buy a replacement spring for belt idler on my tiller. Tried using one from a mower deck, but it was too strong and bends the idler out just enough that the belt walks off the flat idler. I've done an internet search for the original part number (6135) and came up blank. Any suggestions? Is there a Napa or Stens equivalent? Thanks!
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Hi, im new here so bear with me as I find my way around. I recently bought my first wheelhorse. It's a 312- 8. I'd really like to get a tiller attachment for it. I only found one on local Craigslist and the guy wanted $650 for it. Am i gonna have to pay that much for one? What is a reasonable price and are there other places i should be looking for one? Thanks so much?
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Hello Everyone I have a 67 wheel horse 657 and would like to get a tiller for it. Anyone have any idea if this is possible and what part numbers or parts I would need to gather? thanks
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Does anybody know what belt size I will need to use on rear tiller, 520 h?
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Purchased a nice Wheel Horse tiller from wh500special. IT appears to be early 80's. Steve had it on a C160. I want to put this on a 520H (belt to short). Does anyone know what size of belt I need to purchase? Thank you, Edwroy
