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Showing results for tags 'starter'.
Found 23 results
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1994 520 H. Starter just clicks. 1. Battery 12.6V, load test OK., New solenoid. Ground good. Key switch tested ok. Wiring diagram shows a 'kill' relay - I can't find it on the tractor. Checked the 3 relays under the battery box - they work. Neutral switch, PTP and seat switch work mechanically. 2. Not able to find article on this problem when searching. There must be dozens. How do I find them? 3. Can I test the starter without taking it out? 4. Is there a 'kill' relay? thank you...
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Please Help-- I inherited this work horse from my father in-law after being passed down from his father. I recently brought my wheel horse in for repairs and the service shop said they were unable to find the part; starter/solenoid. I did not want to give up on this beast as even the repair shop said this is a well made machine and is better than anything built today. I eventually found the part but because the shop left the part uninstalled I was unable to see how the starter was wired. Yesterday, I installed the new starter/solenoid but when I connected the battery terminals the tractor wanted to start on its own. I quickly disconnected the terminals and analyzed the electrical schematic map but I am baffled on the proper wiring. I only have a positive (red) battery terminal wire, another red wire, black (ground) wire, and a blue wire with a slot connection. I included pictures of the starter and the electrical schematic map. Any help would be much appreciated!! I l would like to fix this on my own as this seems to be a simple wiring issue. I can add pictures of the tractor itself, but at the moment its under a tarp in a shed at night. Thank you in advance, Matt Electrical Guide.pdf
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Rebuilding a C160. everything worked prior to rebuild Engine was fairly high time so machined .020 over and rebuilt Finished rewiring and made sure all the circuits were in order Starter would spin the engine. Made new coil wire and installed new spark plug Starter won't turn the engine. Tried several times with and without spark plug Same results Starter was what I took off the tractor prior to rebuild but can't say it is orininal So.......Am I missing something or is a new starter going to be the answer????? Thoughts? Ideas? All help/input appreciated BTW: Don't know if it means anything but the gear does not retract when key is moved back to ON Bob
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I recently acquired a Kohler K321PT. I want to put it on my Raider 10 but it has a recoil starter. My question is can I put an electric start on this motor and will it bolt up to my Raider 10 to replace the Tecumseh hh100
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Since I bought this in April, I had one time when I went out and it wouldn't start, no turning over, just dead, but the battery etc was good. I looked around for awhile, didn't really do anything, and it just worked. It's been several months, and hasn't done that again until last week. I checked the battery again, looked for any loose wires, etc No luck. The gauges, test lights all come on. How do I see if the starter is getting power? I saw the 2 big nuts, one has a wire, the other doesn't. There is also a small white push on type connector wire. Where do I check for 12Volts? Any other thoughts of possible suspect areas to check for a loose wire? On a slightly related note, when I bought it, the headlights/taillights worked, by the time I trailered it home 3 hours, they didn't work, but everything else did, Thanks, Sam
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On a 1992-1996 520H wheel horse lawn tractor, I have replaced the starter motor and flywheel. I also replaced the coil, condenser, plugs and wires. After all that was done, the tractor started first time cranked and I mowed the 1 acre yard one time. When I went back to mow again it would not start and I see the starter motor is now chewing up the flywheel gears. The new flywheel now has severe burring on the engine side. It looks like the starter is not fully engaging into the flywheel. The mounting bolts have a thick washer. Are those washers supposed to be spacers between the engine and the starter motor, thus moving the nose of the starter closer in toward the flywheel? Am I doing something else wrong?
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Ok folks, here's the deal. So far this mowing season, I've had trouble starting the 416-8. M16S- 711523 engine. Serial # 1624708914. Turn key, bendix spins fast, as it should, but doesn't engage flywheel. Hook up charger on full for few minutes, and will finally engage but spin slow( w/ chargerer still hooked on. Thought battery was weak. Took battery out. Found positive cable eye eaten away so barely hanging on terminal. Battery tested at 12.4v on bench. You think the week connection at terminal would cause this or look to starter??
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bendix is not engaging. just kind of spins. Whats the best approach to access it to clean it with some spray white grease? If I take engine shroud off, can I get at it where it attaches to flywheel or do I have to take it completely off? Seems like the oil fill tube will need to be removed first if I have to take it off. Does this mean draining the oil? Or do i have to take engine off frame to get the starter off? anybody been in this situation? the service manual is pretty vague on removing the starter? Thanks in advance
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Hi all, I stumbled across this forum while trying to diagnose an issue with a 314-8 GT my dad handed down to me when he bought a new one this past spring. He purchased it in August, 1997 and it has been used for general yard work and lawn mowing. It has had a great life so far with no major issues until late last summer when all of a sudden it would not start. The engine would turn, but not fire up. After some playing around with the carb, I determined that it was not getting fuel when trying to start. However, I would just manually add fuel to the bowl to start it, and it would start right up. Once it started, it got fuel no problem and would run great for hours while cutting grass. A week would go by and I would have to do the same manual adding of fuel to get it to start, but it would run fine again. This went on all summer as I had no time to really look at it. I just assumed it had something to do with the ignition system not activating the fuel pump, but once it turned over, the fuel pump worked as designed. Then one day toward the end of the summer, I turned the key and nothing. No crank at all. The battery is still good and the lights on the panel would light up, but the engine would not turn or even make a sound. In searching the forum, I think I have narrowed it down to ignition module, starter, or solenoid. However, I don't want to order parts that I may not need so I am hoping to get some experienced guidance. My thoughts are that the two issues described above are related. Perhaps the fuel issues in the middle of the summer were symptoms of a part going bad, but still able to limp along. The final issue of not starting was when the part finally gave out. Or, perhaps they are not related and I have multiple things to look into. I would greatly appreciate any information and/or advice. If this is in the wrong forum, I apologize. I thought it would go best in the engine since I am not entirely sure what the issue is.
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1988 257h - replaced battery...wont turn over but like 3 times even when hooked to my jeep with jumper cables....if someone could help please.... my grass is getting jungle like...thx
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I'm a newbie to this wheel horse world so first off, thanks for any advice/assistance you give me. I have a 312-8 with a 12HP kohler and the starter will spin but won't engage the flywheel. Do I need a new starter or is there something else I can do?
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The starter quit on my recently acquired c161 twin. I looks like I may need to remove the flywheel? It must have a bad crank seal behind the flywheel anyway.
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1987 212-6 wheelhorse with kawaski motor wont start before she quit she started ran a minute and stalled and that was it I had been starting by jumping the solenoid so bought new starter and solenoid now she just hums when you turn the key and have the battery charger connected when you take the charger off nothing I got two batterys both the same could this be the rectifier
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H60 12v starter? Part number? Anything please...
DennisThornton posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Normally I Google for a couple minutes and find what I want. Sometime longer... Tonight I've spent half an hour and said heck, lots of guys (some gals?) here know off the top of their heads! Just ask! (I even searched here for one...) Supper time and I'm tired... My L156, 1966 Lawn Ranger, and what I'd think is the original engine, H60 is missing the starter. What's the part number of the starter please? It's missing the carb as well and lo and behold brand new ones are $15 on ebay! How do you make a whole carb for $15? I've paid far more for a kit! But I still can't find a 12 v starter... All kinds of 120v ones! -
Can anyone help me figure out how I can get a replacement (new) starter for a 1974 D200? I'm not sure how I cross-reference from an old part number to a new replacement (if there is one). Thanks in advance for any guidance. Chris
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The front-bearing on my el-starter to my C-120 1974, is somehow gone. Else the starter is fine. Is there possible to get a replacement bearing?
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Hoping for some help, advice, anything to make my months-long mission to get my 520-H running a success story. Inherited the tractor from the previous owner of my home. He rarely used it -- preferred his zero-turn -- and advised that I always keep it on the float charger when not in use. I used it for one month's worth of cuts last summer, and then began having problems. At first, the engine was surging. It would fluctuate from high to low rpm with the choke off. However, if I played with the choke (thereby getting way too much fuel and oil into my system), it would run for at least the rest of that cut. After having to keep it running with the choke, it eventually stopped turning over AT ALL. I did the general maintenance: changed both plugs, dropped the oil, drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter, removed all of the visible (and accessible) electrical connections and cleaned them up. Bought a new battery as well, and the tractor started right up. Sounded better than ever. For one cut. By the end of the cut, I had to start messing with the choke again to keep it running. So, I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter (because it was making a strange knocking sound), cleaned the (new-ish) plugs, bench tested the solenoid, changed the solenoid. When I connected the battery and went to start, I got (what sounded like) very little power to the starter. Loud clicking/rattling sounds ensued, so I brought the batt to Autozone to check the juice. It was at 50%, and it was only one month old. They charged it, and when I reconnected the batt...nada. Nothing. The same old clicking, metal-thrashing-like sound/s. I've tried to jump the solenoid directly -- same result. I've bypassed the solenoid and put all connections directly to the starter -- same result. I've downloaded as many Wheel Horse PDFs as I could find, including the demys guide. Now, I'm thinking about the regulator. Thinking about it as it sits in front of my laptop. It's an Onan 14v 20a. Two ACs and one B+ connections. I'm really hoping it's not the stator and/or the starter. So, any advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated. I have experience with small engines from my years taking apart and racing dirt bikes, but things are just a bit more challenging to access with this beast. But, from EVERYTHING that I have read/heard, a working/running WH will be well worth all of my effort. Sorry for the long post. I am an English teacher : ) -O
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I finally had some time to work on the tractor. The latest fix was to replace the ignition switch. The old one was very fried on the red wire connection, and the only way I could start it was jumping with a screwdriver across the posts. I bought a replacement switch, and a pigtail, along with some marine crimp connectors. The leads from the tractor were very short, but was able to make all of the connections. I put it all back together, and now no start. When I turn to run, the lights can be turned on and volt meter activates. There is nothing lighting on the indicator board, even if I do the test button. This used to work. I have plenty of oil in the engine. When I turn it to start, the voltage drops to zero, and the lights go off. No sound at all. I tried to jump but it just turns over. There have been some switches bypassed by a previous owner. I need to get back to mowing and moving stuff. If I could replace the entire wiring harness that would be great, but I am sure it is not an easy task. Thanks for your help. Mike
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Please excuse me I am a newbie and my terminology my be incorrect but I hope to learn from everyone. I'm a new owner of a 1972 GT-14. This is my first wheel horse and I am loving it. However I have had a few problems with it. The current problem is when I turn the key the engine won't turn. It seem that the starter is turning but not engaging the engine. I don't think the engine is seized because I can turn it manually. I was having an issue with the battery and when I tried to start it would just click once and not do anything. I replaced the battery and it started and ran several times. I even drove it around the yard a few times included 5 minutes before the issue began happening. Now it won't start. Please help. Thanks.
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Can anyone identify what this old recoil starter comes from. The paint color looks light yellow, I found it in the shed at the in-laws farm?
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As the title says, I have a 1988 vintage Wheel Horse 312-8 with starting problems. With the battery fully charged, it will turn the engine over briefly one time, and then I just get a click and a buzzing sound when I try the starter. I'm pretty sure it must be the solenoid, and I'm willing to undertake the replacement myself, but would like to know if there are other ideas. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
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Reo ST-268 Electric Starter Kit <?>
dmauro posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
1967 Reo ST-268 Snowblower. Works well but electric starter is shot. I have the starter manual (1 pager) but no model to reference. It's a Tecumseh electric starter and wondering if anyone knows a model # I could use to buy a new kit. Thanks! BTW I have full manual if anyone wants it .. I could upload a pdf if helpful. Thanks!
