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Showing results for tags 'rust'.
Found 6 results
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This is my commando I just picked up awhile ago. Looks like it was-tried to be a puller. Got it with no motor but have a strong 14 to install. Does anyone know how to preserve the sheet metal but keep the “rust look”. Will be using this unit for small farm chores. I really like the look currently with the rust and wear, kinda tells a story I suppose but I don’t want to leave the Tin “unprotected”. I’ve heard of guys lightly rubbing down the metal with used motor oil? Any thoughts, comments, concerns are highly appreciated!
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so the whole corner of my 42 rear discharge was completely rotten away. I’ve welded sheet metal before, but I don’t really know what gauge steel is need for a solid repair. I have 16 gauge on hand. Would something thicker be needed?
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Picked up an old rusted D blade, every moving part was stuck, but after 2 days of heat and PB blast, well here it is. nite mirror over. and of course Nugget our garage cat .
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StrongArm, "Fluid Film", TC-11 and other rustpreventatives?
DennisThornton posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
http://strongarmbrand.com/ I've used, liked and recommended "Fluid Film" and TC-11 but never tried StrongArm. Kind of pricey but if it works like this: Here's Before and After with 35 year old and Restored by a USA fluid User in Daytona Anybody used it? Or anything similar that you like? Thank! -
So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good? I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together? See that attached photos for a bit more clarity. Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well. Thanks for any help!
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I just noticed that my b80 (1975) deck is rusting out. Is there a replacement deck that fits the B80. Tractor is in great shape--had the engine replace several years ago.
