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Showing results for tags 'k301'.
Found 18 results
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Gentlemen, I am in need of help. While doing yard work with my K301 powered ‘68 Charger 12 it suddenly came to a stop and won’t start again. My troubleshooting so far: Fuel: • stabil/87 and clean • good flow before and after pump • carb clean, recently rebuilt, float level correctly set Compression: •good? - blows finger off spark plug hole •good turnover but doesn’t fire off •piston and cylinders move freely •valve lash set .008 intake .018 exhaust •breather assembly correct and recently serviced with new gaskets and filter •head gasket not broken, head bolts tight, some carbon on head Spark: •no spark •all electrical/ignition components were replaced 1 year ago except voltage regulator •no loose connections, no grounding connections •inspected and applied graphite to starter shaft •changed plug •12v to coil good •cleaned points, points wire has continuity •condenser ground good •swapped battery, points and wire, plug and wire, coil, and condenser from running K301 (‘69 Charger 12) •points push rod does push out when turning engine over by hand, but unable to get points timed using multimeter method and timing mark on flywheel What else should I check/do?
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Version TP2080E
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So gang, it's Christmas time and my company has extended its forced vacation to two weeks, sucking 7 days of FTO from me. I've got all kinds of things to do for the wifey-poo but what the heck can I do for me? I've got two K301s so may as well get out the surgical tools and do a b-gearectomy. The C-125 goes first. Restored that back in '17 and so she's got maybe 75 hours on her. It'll be rather painless and the youngster is visiting so can assist in getting that b-itch up onto the bench. She's already been moved to the garage and the old Kawi and its carb parts moved back to the shed while I search for tiny o-rings. Wish me luck and pics to come. Oh, there is no rattle BUT she's always had a minor knock I chalk-up to excessive end play (didn't measure it back then 'cause I'm bad but, dang!, will now).
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Hi. I have a C121 which starts right up but lacks power. A compression check indicated 30lbs of pressure. I took the head off hoping maybe it’s just a gasket, but I think the cylinder needs to be honed or bored out. Based on the attached pics, is this block still good and would honing fix it?
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I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today. I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also! Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged. It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch. It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet. Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it? What is the correct routing for the throttle cable? This just CAN'T be correct! It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable! Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short? If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated! While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine. To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump. I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed? The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but more so the fuel pump. What say you K301 gurus?
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I was snowblowing the other day and got about half way through my driveway and all of a sudden my tractor died and I could not get it restarted. The first thing I noticed when it died was that the battery went down rapidly to about 7V but I think that had to do with my external alternator hooked up and not spinning but I could be wrong. I got the tractor back in the shed and could not get it turned over at all. The starter spins and everything seemed to move freely but I was not getting a spark. Changed the spark plug yesterday because it looked pretty gummed up and still nothing. This morning I was diving into the electrical system and got to the points where I was going to reset the timing and I realized that the points plunger does not move when I rotate the flywheel by hand. I guess at this point I don't entirely know what I have to do. Is it an easy/worth it fix or does the whole engine need to come apart? Can I change it to a different type of ignition system? Any other thoughts to try? Repower? Thanks, Bob
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@PeacemakerJack @WHX24 @Achto @953 nut @ebinmaine and anybody else who wants to take a stab at this as I am sure a Kohler is a Kohler no matter what color/brand tractor it sets in ... Back story I bought a group of IHCC just to get the 1 I wanted (126 3rd lowest production) then my son wanted a 1200 like my dad's so I let him have the best 1 of 2 to tinker and learn on, found the original engine had a broken rod so I found him another "running" at idle (I seen and heard in person before buying) K301 out of another CC and let him pull the blown engine and install the new 1 on his own, after installation he couldn't get it to run past idle missing and spattering plus carb leaking, smoking a little bit, then I bring back home and start working on it fixing other mechanical issues then jumped into the engine issues. As follows, wrong coil and a weak spark so all new components set points ran but would NOT really rev up smoked but not to terribly when reviving up but popped and sputtered, off came the head one small spot on the gasket near the exhaust valve looked to be leaking and upon further inspection the exhaust valve was pitted bad (burnt?) so I removed and tried to hand lap didn't work so had the blown engine on hand and stole the good exhaust valve and lapped it and the intake in decently, new head gasket after after cleaning and "planing" the head's gasket surface put it all back together, got it running and warmed up, retorque bolts button that up move onto the carb issues after 2 brand new "China" replicas and cleaned the original other than leaking fuel bowls no matter how I adjust the mixture screws it will idle damn near "perfectly" but getting it rev to WOT without missing popping and sputtering was damn near impossible, so here I am I got it to rev up to WOT without to much much fanfare but now it it will surge (governor moving back and forth ever so slightly unlike idle no movement at all) then will calm down then sputtering like starving for fuel (all 3 carbs, new tank petcock and fuel line , it is gravity fed) sitting still or driving around. After its warm it starts on the first bump of the key idles like new and revs up to WOT but misses/sputters/ surged there... So what else should I do, more/less point gap (now .020", can't pull the blower housing without removing engine "that ain't happening again such a PITA on these wide frame CC to find and paint the timing marks that I tried looking for through a 3/4" peep hole for an hour today)? I set checked and rechecked valve lash 3 times .009" In and .018" Ex... A couple videos to help as well. Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to give as much info the first time to help solve this debacle. And as most of you know I can build and tune a tight SBC this should be a piece of cake. 20201018_144036.mp4 20201129_150743.mp4
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I need some help. I picked up a 1968 electro 12 (1-7235) that I'm assuming is an early model built with a leftover 67 engine because the engine patina matches the tractor and it has an external generator/starter instead of the magneto. It's a k301S-4712B. I bought it knowing that the engine turns freely and that it had no spark. Being 52 years old I figured it deserved some fresh ignition parts so I replaced the coil, condenser, points (cleaned and set to .020), spark plug (.035), and plug wire, and I still cannot get a spark at the plug or through my spark plug tester. It turns over okay and I've got 12 volts to the positive terminal on the coil. It's been many years since last worked on this type of ignition system and I'm stumped. I would appreciate any input/suggestions you might have. If it were something newer I'd suspect a safety switch but I can't see that this has any.
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Well as normal, fix one problem and find another. My C-120 with 12hp K-301 has been running very smoothly. I rebuilt and tuned the carb a few months back. Yesterday I made a trip from the garage to the backyard (2 minutes) and got off the tractor and let it idle at mid-throttle. After about 30 seconds all of a sudden it started sputtering out, puffing black and I struggled to keep it running. Finally it died and would not restart. I took the air filter off and it was wet with fuel. Trying to start it again, it would sputter and spit fuel out of the carb but not stay running. So naturally I took the carb off (it was clean) and gave it another good cleaning anyway. Float is good when shaking it. Reassembled and put back on the tractor but it still isn’t running right. It will start up after leaving it sit for a while (but rough) and after only running for a few minutes it will sputter, die and not restart. I checked right after it died and and there was spark. Took the fuel line off the carb and it seems to be pumping fine. What do you guys think? Points and condenser? Coil? Stuck valves? i really don’t think it’s the carb unless I somehow installed the needle or seat wrong. Super strange that it has been running like a top, starting on second crank and all of a sudden struggles and won’t start. I’m pretty stumped here, so I thank you for your help!
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Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage. I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator. Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables. Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one. It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits. I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point Bob
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Help time please.... The k301 for my c120 (bought the tractor literally in pieces but all there I think???? ) is missing the fuel pump. I've check the engine out with the ol intravenous method and its . Ebay will sell you one for anywhere from $20 - $160. I know you get what you pay for but....... really????? Isave tractors has one in the $50 range. Any experience with the plethora (is that really a word??) of 301 pumps out there?
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Hi, hoping someone can help. I'm over in France trying to tidy up my place before the winter so do not have all the tools I have back at home. I have a separate problem with the gear box but have posted separately. Back in July when l last used the tractor it was loosing power when it got hot, and looking on the internet it appeared that the coil may be the problem. i have just returned to France and brought a new coil with me and replaced the old one. This coil has a separate ballast resistor attached. The tractor started first go and I started to cut the grass but with gearbox problems. The grass was long and thick in places and the tractor coped well, just heading the governor apply a bit more power in places. Them after about half an hour the engine lost power and there were some visible flames commons ftom the exhaust. can any one tell me what is happening here. I assume that it is heat related because the engine started first go and then ran well. But it must have been fully up to temperature long before this loss of power. Seeing flames from the exhaust indicates that the fuel is not being burnt in the cylinder, is this an ignition problem? Or are the valve not shutting properly an the fuel is just being pushed straight out of the engine? I'm sure it would look quite cool after dark, but with no power the grass will keep growing. Hop some one can help. Thanks, Andrew
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So this is my man's @Rp.wh12 hp '68? Raider that had a little mishap at my recent plow event. Good news here is the block was not ventilated so we think with a little coin and some greasy hands this motor can be saved. It seems that when a rod goes it will either punch the block or go the other way to the cam. Which is what it did breaking the cam. Note the indent on the fuel pump lobe where something wacked it. Piston shirt was busted up pretty good as it looks like the piston was slammed down on the crank. Wrist pin was ovaled and the whole bottom of the piston was mashed. This was done under a full load of dirt and plowing. @PeacemakerJack claims to have a video of when it went so perhaps he'll share here. I chewed my man's rear out about it running it low on low oil and tipped over in the furrow but he swears he topped it off before the day. I dunno but but not much oil came out and what did was sludge. Regardless damage is done so let's just fix it. New 10 over piston with rings is in order along with a new cam and 10 under rod. Bore is clean and not tapered so a std. piston and rings might be fitted in but is getting close to max out of tolerance so might as do it right. Obviously suffering from some low end lubrication issues.
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Thinking about putting a K301 in a short frame such as a 606. Curious if anyone has tried this! Will it fit?
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any problems replacing a K301 with a K321 on a c120 hydro ?
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Working on a 1969 Raider 12 for a friend. As far as I can tell, the engine is the correct one for this tractor. It was missing the entire air cleaner, so the owner got an air cleaner housing, but I have found that it will not fit on this carb. The mounting holes on the air cleaner base are 1 7/8" center to center for both the horizontal and vertical holes. The carb has been roughed up a little and the 2 horizontal holes have been "wallowed" out and a piece of the aluminum casting has actually been broke off and some type of plastic filler was used to "hide" the damage. Can't do much to repair this as the choke shaft rotates here. The vertical holes on the carb are 1 5/8" center to center. Can anyone shed any light on this? Is the carb for older K301 engine different than the carbs for say a middle 70's K301? I think I will just pull this carb and install one off of another 12 hp that already has the air cleaner base on it!
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My dealer can't finds PN# for a muffler gasket. anyone know what it is?
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I have a kohler 12hp engine in a 312A that's having issues. It will run with the choke on and throttle all the way up. If the choke is turned off it will die. After it warms up it will run without the choke on but only at the lowest throttle setting. Any suggestions? Thanks
