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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
Found 10 results
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A guy I know runs all his 4 cycle power equipment engines on 2 cycle fuel. He claimed it reduced engine wear. Aside from the added cost of the 2 cycle oil, are there other downsides. Just curious what you all think. Joe And now for the rest of the story: I spoke to the guy again. He was a mechanic at a place where they operate a lot of outdoor power equipment; with both 2 and 4 cycle engines. To prevent employees from putting straight gas into their 2 cycle machines, all their fuel got 2 cycle oil mix with it. For them, it was more economical to spend money on oil, than on blown engines and downtime. Thank for all the great posts. I found some to be very entertaining.
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The Ethanol Monster strikes again! Got out the pressure washer and went to start it, "no dice" Opened the carb and found those typical ethanol pearls, as I call them. I used an additive in my fuel last year, Ethanol Shield, did not seem to work very well. Not wanting to drive 30 miles for fuel, and still skeptical about if it is true ethanol free. Switched over to Lucas additive now. Will see. FYI Joe
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Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage. I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator. Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables. Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one. It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits. I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point Bob
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Following the death of my 520H's fuel pump, I bought a low-pressure electric pump. The problem is, I know almost nothing about electrical systems, and I am wondering where to hook up the pump. I am thinking that I could use the pink line coming from the A terminal, but I'm not absolutely sure. I was also wondering if I could attach it with ring hooks to one of the meters. (piggy-backing) I'm not sure of the amps this uses, but it seems to have 14 gauge wire. To be safe, would adding a 20 amp fuse screw up the meters if I switched it in the place the 10 amp? This is the pump: Amazon I have an inline fuse holder if my ideas have been completely wrong.
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I was mowing with my C165 today and it sputtered and stalled like it ran out of fuel. When I looked at the fuel line coming from the fuel pump to the carb, the fuel was boiling!! Do I need to change the exhaust route or ? IMG_2929.MOV
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So I rebuilt carb and replaced fuel pump, thought fuel pump would fix my problems. No such luck! Still stalled out when she got hot. Took apart fuel tank shutoff, cleaned and lubed o ring, knocked some dirt out of vent tube with long wire, blew long fuel line, drained tank and tried some air pressure both ways, tank fuel outlet, and thru vent tube. Doesnt allow hardly any air flow either way? What is between tank and vent tube? A really small orifice, or some sort of pressure valve vent device? Put it back together and ran her with coffee filter banded over cap, NO PROBLEMS! Was so glad to move some dirt that I never tried putting cap back on! I think maybe there was blockage at tank shutoff, valve was very stiff and difficult to turn. Looks like a major ordeal to access fuel tank??? I will try putting fuel cap on tomorrow, but I had ran her prieviously with cap loose so I think my problem is solved. Vent sure doesnt seem right though?
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Hi there, We recently became the proud owners of a 1976'ish C-120. When we purchased the tractor it wouldn't start but the previous owner believed this was due to a faulty solenoid. Anyhow, I finally had time today to see if it would run. On initial inspection, there was a definite 'click' on attempting to start. And after a few attempts, the starter turned the engine over and it fired - so I think we actually have a 'sticky' starter, rather than a dodgy solenoid? Anyhow, I then took the tractor for a 'spin', and not knowing how long the fuel I had put in might last, after about 30 minutes the engine spluttered to a halt. Oh dear out of fuel I filled the tank with what fuel I had left in my can, but on attempting to restart, the engine turns over but refuses to fire. Having run out of fuel, is there some sort of 'priming' process that I need to go through before I will be able to get the engine to fire again? Any advice gratefully received. A newbie
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My week long effort to get my Raider 10 to fire finally is resolved....quick back story that might help anyone else. I was totally baffled that I had spark and 90 PSI compression and even using starting fluid got little more than a sputter. The problem was I just needed to add triple the amount of starting fluid or gas and the thing fired right up which it hadn't done before. What a relief !!! Is it wrong to hear it run strong even for 3 seconds and get turned on? lol. Sorry to jump posts but I figure most people reading know about 100 times more than me so..... Carb....LME 29. Mine seems sorta OK but is there an aftermarket replacement out there for under $100? I kinda like the idea of a brand new carburetor. Front axle on my 1970 Raider 10......I have a really nice 42" JD snow blade with the bracket that bolts to the frame in front......is there any reason I couldn't weld 2 L-brackets to the front axle member to bolt it to. My concern is since its cast.....how well can that be welded to? Or should I try to weld some brackets to the frame instead? Special thanks to Strauss, Kevin, and especially Brian for help, info, and troubleshooting. D
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Should I be running leaded fuel in my C 121?? Matt
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I have a '97 520H that is having a carb issue. It starts up fine, then it runs fine until 20 or so. Then it starts to faulter. Like it shuts off by itself. If I choke it it keeps running until I get it back to the garage. Took the plugs out, and they were fouled. Cleaned them up, put 'em back in. This time it ran for 40 mins no problem until I engage the hydro and start plowing. The horsepower % gauge moves the left (I believe it's a vac gauge). Before the engine dies it smells rich and vapor comes out of the carb. The choke was sticking open, so I put my hand over the the throttle body and it (my hand) smelled of gasoline. Any thoughts and tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
