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Showing results for tags 'exhaust'.
Found 7 results
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Finally got the stack installed, getting that threaded pipe out of the head needed a little persuasion but all went well, and it looks fantastic thanks to Jim Kemp!
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Stainless Steel Exhaust Stack
JHorseman posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I am in the process of restoring a 72 Raider 8 and decided I would beef it up a bit with a custom stack. Currently the motor is out of the tractor and am waiting for a rod, piston, cam shaft and bearing set. Motor was in total self destruct mode when the previous owner didn't check the oil 🙄🤦🏼♂️ So I made this stainless stack out of sch 5, 2 inch pipe and reduced to 1". Decided I didn't like to looks of threaded pipe so I found a couple valve parts to act as the flanges, and am going to weld the other flange to a threaded nipple and screw into the engine block. Let me know what you think! Trying to decide if I should leave it flat, mitre it or weld a turnout on it! Jake Also, I'm going to hold out for now until I can hear it run straight piped, but considering rolling a stainless screen down to 1" and packing gap between the stack and the screen with muffler packing. Has anyone else ever done this? Looking for ideas and comments are welcome! Jake -
Decided to add a traditional tractor exhaust/muffler tonight. I think it turned out pretty good. Used a Ford Muffler and reduced it to a 1" pipe, welded the 1" pipe to a new exhaust port flange. Amazingly, it is a lot quieter now. Did not expect that. Next, I might add some little headlights on each side of the hood. Probably need a little coil to run them. Well see what I can find on eBay.
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I am looking at possibly removing my exhaust to get at the engine better for cleaning it, and also maybe putting some high temp on the muffler. It is pretty clear that the studs and nuts are VERY rusty, (funny, because the rest of the tractor has hardly any at all) and I am afraid they will not come of without a fight. Should I just leave it and deal with it as is? What is the process of fixing/replacing this were I need to remove the muffler? It seems to run really well, so I don't want to dig into it too much, but I want to clean it up to give it a fresh start. There are a few broken off shroud bolts (how do you break those!?) that I need to get at and replace.
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Hello all, I have inherited a 74 B100 with 10hp K241S 46636d when my father passed away. I remembered this tractor new, so when asked, I wanted it. It runs and mows, however, the engine slows and speeds up randomly. I left it running and lifted the hood. 1st thing I noticed was a loose plug wire, fiddled with it and she spurred up to max rpm. But that only worked randomly as well.(will replace wire soon). 2nd and possibly most importantly I noticed a MASSIVE amount of air/exhaust coming out of the "FIN" area (see pic) Forgive me but, is this normal? I mean it feels like a high powered fan. Any other thoughts on Idle speed random variations would be much appreciated.
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How To: Chrome 520 Exhaust Heat Shield on Smaller Machines
grnlark posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Several weeks back I was searching the net for a thread that might address the question: Will a chrome 520 muffler heat shield fit a smaller series machine? I found a few bits of information here and there, but nothing that really answered the question. With that said, I hope this thread finds some of you well. Here’s what I initially gathered from reading the net and various conversations: the 520 guard is too long, it needs to be modified, they still offer the chrome guard new thru Toro and all guards are the same. Let me give you the accurate answers based on my recent experience. The 520 guard is a bit longer (illustrated below), depending which guard you get, it does not need to be modified at all, the chrome guard is NOT offered new thru Toro – only the black, and the guards are definitely not all the same. There appears to be 2 different chrome guards and 1 black. One of the chrome guards has mounting holes on the outside edges and the other has the mounting holes set in a few inches from the edge (mine pictured below). I imagine they differed based on the engine – obviously. The black guard (as far as I can tell) is only offered with the holes set in a few inches from the edge. When I bought my 310, the muffler was totally smooth with no mounting tabs welded to it for a guard. I was able to get a muffler from a 414, which was exactly identical but did have the tabs. I then took a gamble and purchased the chrome shield you see below (from a 520). I only needed to make one bracket for this to be a direct bolt-on without any modifications to the muffler or guard. 1) Piece of mild steel cut to length with three holes drilled. 2) Bracket blasted and painted with high temp black. I slipped sheetmetal fasteners on the 4 muffler tabs and used stainless 8/32 hardware. 3) I used the factory mounting location(s) for both the guard and the muffler. 4) Both are factory muffler tab locations. On the shield, the 8/32 screw fits thru the horizontal slot without modification. Sure, its not the “correct†mounting location for the shield, but personally, I think it’s fine. 5) Attaches the factory shield mounting point to the homemade bracket. On this screw I have a stainless lock washer and nut (vs. sheetmetal fastener). 6) Is there a length difference? Yes. It is approx. 1.5â€-2â€. Quite honestly, it doesn’t bother me one bit, but that’s me – and I’m pretty picky about this stuff. I’ve never claimed to be an expert about these later model WH’s, so if anything I’ve noted above seems to be in error, please feel free to comment. My hope is that this info helps others out in the future.