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Found 60 results
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Hello gentleman, Problem: will not crank on its own, will crank with jump box—but still not fire Recent things I did prior to this issue: cleaned fuel filter, replaced battery cables, replaced cable from ignition to starter I have my test light out and am probing around. There is no power at ignition/magneto wire or the ignition/starter wire There is power everywhere else
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276 downloads
Detailed wiring from the Demystification Guide #492-4509 4 pages 1.4MB Color p7-67 to p7-70 Onan powered 1989 416-8 model 31-16O801Free
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Well, I decided to post this in the hope that it may help some one else who "geeks out" on this stuff like I do! Fo rme, if it's there, it's supposed to work. And when it comes to lights of any kind, this form of "man-bling" is eye-candy I just couldn't walk away from! So when I re-connected the feed wires to the test switch and saw that a few of the lights on the dash lit, I was all over it. I removed the circuit board and had to clean what looked like 20 years worth of decaying yard stuff from the board. A soft brush and some silicone spray really helped here. However, that's when the lights started "flaking off", as the bases were so decayed even the ones that lit were just barely hanging on. So I unsoldered the bases and wires, which was as simple as holding the iron on the leftover post while holding the post with needle-nosed pliers. Once the solder melts, the stub comes right out. But here's where I made a mistake of assumption. I assumed that the bulbs were 12V, since the charging system is 12v. After returning from my local Radio Shack with 12 volt bulbs, soldering in a couple and getting nothing, I thought I fried the board! But then I looked at it in the dark and noticed the faintest glow from my replacements. That alerted me to bad voltage and when I put a voltmeter on the leads I discovered that they only drew 2 - 2.3 volts each. So I went back to Radio Shack and this time I got 2.5V bi-pin LED's (from the slide out drawers where all the good stuff is!). The install was easy but Note: LED's are polarized and will only worked when polarity is correct. So, put a meter on the pins to see which is positive. For me, the positive side was closest to the plug. It's a simple process to snip the leads on the LED's (so they are about 1/4" long), hold them onto the indent from where the old bulb leads were, then touch the iron to the opposite side of the circuit board and gently work the leads through. No addional solder was needed. They look great! Here's a Pic: The coolest thing about this is that the lights actually alerted me to leaving the emergency brake on yesterday! They did their job! Gotta love the Wheelhorse. I'm hoping that maybe some of you who thought your circuit boards were toast can now resurrect them! Not that it affects the way the tractor works at all, but as I said, the "man-bling" is really cool! And if it's there, it's supposed to work, right? Good luck!
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Need some help. My 800 Special has an electric PTO. It is not working. Checked Ohms - nothing. My questions are 1) how does the PTO come off and 2) can they be rebuilt? I took the bolt out that I thought holds it on but no luck. Must be something more?
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Hi, here's what happened. I changed out 9 pin moles plug...had issues tracter quit running and changed the plugs while I was at it....got plugs from auto store cross reference to ngk they said it was the same heat range and I check electrod length with calipers ,same...tracter started right up and ran great for about 10 min. And started back firing and quit.....going to check it out tonite anybody have an idea?
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hello all I'm a new owner of a 312-8 tractor, have starting problems, came across a very small, what I believe is a relay between the battery and the dash,its about 2/3rd size of a cube of sugar silver on the outside blue on top with a hole bout the size of a pea, theres 6 pins with wires connected to it on the bottom do not know what this is any thoughts? I cannot determine the exact year of this machine for there is no tag anywhere only tag on engine kohler magnum md #m12s ser# 170370459 spec# 471527 I figure its mid to late 80s to early 90s. of all the wiring diagrams ive looked at it does not show any thing like what I just described also can that little circuit board be removed that's like a test point for idiot lights? any help would be appreciated jeff
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Need some help with setting up electrical to the engine. I got this one wire I don't know where it goes! I thought it went to the starter but it doesn't fit. A grounding wire went there I believe. Any ideas or manuals? And a front tire as well
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Hi, I read through a few related posts but my symptoms sound different. Have an '89-'90? Wheelhorse 520-H, model 4120OE01. When I engage the PTO, the engine stalls. No fault indicators. However, everything else seems normal: - all lights work when pressing 'TEST' - when I engage the PTO without sitting on the seat, the engine also stalls, but the 'SEAT' light comes on. Normal. - when I try to start the engine with the PTO engaged, it won't start and 'PTO' lights up. Normal. - after disconnecting the load (2-stage snow blower belt in this case) from the PTO, I get the same problem, engine stalls immediately. PTO pulley turns along fine with the remaining motion. And I also need to mention: the first time it happened it was intermittent. The tractor and snowblower attachment were used over a month ago, without any problem.This time got above symptom upon startup. I didn't feel like shoveling so after revving the engine for a minute or two and a few 'encouraging' words, it worked. I switched the PTO off and on several times afterwards with no problem (engine warm, obviously). Today, with the engine cold, the problem is back. I think there's enough reason to rule out the PTO- and seat- switches. But what else should I check? This is my first time writing in the forum and I hope I've given enough clues without boring you. Any hints and advice are appreciated. Armin PS any good tricks to counteract the belt tensioner on the 2-stage snow thrower (model 79361)? It is a bear to connect and disconnect.
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I put in my new oil sending unit. It does not work. Also the hour meter works with the key in the on position. But when engine is running the hour meter does not work. What is the problem? When I hooked up the oil sending unit I soldered the connecters and shrink wrapped them...
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Snow coming c160 not starting.. lol. Of course
indywheelhorsenut posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Started fine 2 weeks ago. I left key in ignition and fear grandson may have turned it slightly to right a week ago.. not enough to engage starter but perhaps enough to drain battery. Went to start it yesterday and no charge at all. Started charging it and battery began to take charge. However starter turned over but didnt turn engine over. Question is do I just need more of a charge (more amps) or do I have another problem? Lol, have 5 inches of snow headed here starting tonight so I need to get ahead of this today. -
I picked up a wheel horse and I am having trouble finding the connection for this wire. I have no spark and have searched for the placement of this wire within the distance of its length...any ideas?...can't seem to paste the picture....
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John Deere STX38 Lawn Tractor Repair Series. No Crank, No Start
MS GENERAL REPAIR posted a topic in other brands
Part 1 of John Deere STX Lawn Tractor Repair Video Series. The Engine won't crank. -
P220G Stator Output Voltage OK? OEM or Aftermarket Voltage Regulator
r1jakecfd posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Hi Guys, I know my voltage regulator is bad on my Onan P220 and was wondering if anyone has an opinion on a replacement, OEM or aftermarket? Also, I checked my stator leads for AC Voltage and got about 25 volts at 3600 rpm on each. Is this OK? I know it says in the 40’s. Thanks guys -
I went out to use my 520H with blower this evening and it won't start. I used this machine a few days ago (for the first time this winter). The battery has been on a trickle charge so I don't think that's the problem. It's done this before where it won't start, won't start, and then starts. Usually that is in cold weather and after I've previously used it to blow snow. I don't have a heated garage so I think it might have some ice somewhere that was introduced as water the last time I blew snow. Here's what it's currently doing. When I turn the Ignition to 'On' the red warning lights and the dashs light all come on. When I turn the key to start position I get a single 'Click' and nothing more. I tried jumping it from a hot battery just to rule out a bad battery. Same behavior. Following some of the other threads about 520s with trouble starting, I pulled the blue wire off the starter solenoid. If I run a jumper wire from the (+) side of the battery directly to the solenoid I get the same behavior (regardless of key being in on or off position)- small spark where my jumper wire is touching the battery terminal and a single click. I'm unsure what this means about the solenoid and if that, in any way tests, the starter. Could it be that my starter is bad/frozen? I tried using a heat lamp to warm up that area, but in this weather (and my garage, which is really just a tarp shed) that just isn't going to work. I've downloaded the demystification guide and started looking at it but I'm hoping someone might have some suggestions. Snow is falling and I'm not making much headway on this. Thanks
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312-8 has no power leaving relay to solenoid,If I use the switched feed to the relay on the solenoid it starts but I have no safety devices.The low oil switch wires have been joined where they leave the multiplug as one of them broke right at the switch too close to solder.The clutch and pto switches are good.When I turn the key the relay makes a faint click,when I turn it with the clutch depressed the solenoid joins in with a half hearted click.Could the low oil level wires being joined be contributing to alow voltage at the solenoid signal wire?Anyone got any ideas?
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I thought I would do a quick, but thorough, right up on my recent engine swap on my 520-H. The Onan has served me well for the past three year with the exception of the manifold leaking and having to run it at half choke to smooth out the idle. Currently this machine is used for my snowblower in the winter and loader in the summer. Knowing that the Onan had life left, but not wanting to risk catastrophic failure on a necessary piece of equipment I decided to look for a replacement. With shear luck I found a brand new 2001 Kohler 25hp on Craigslist for $450 and wasted no time getting it. The Onan will have a new home on a second 520 I was given in desperate need of attention, making it a good candidate for a restomod tower/ hood swap donated from a black hood model. The swap isn't to terrible but more time consuming than I had originally thought. The worst of which was a wiring gremlin that I created running a wire to an accessory power source instead of a full time one. The engine is wider than an Onan making placement a challenge. An inch froward of where the engine is currently bolted you can see two holes. The one to the left side of the tractor is a factory whole that I used for the first round placement of the motor. This left the engine to far forward for the clutch engagement to work properly, but was a good medium for the belt alignment. After moving the wholes back a little over an inch everything worked out great, with exception of the belt guard which I have spaced out with washers for the time being. Next came the wiring. With the diagrams I was able to find I discovered that the Kohler came with a similar setup to the Onan. This includes the oil pressure switch, starter solenoid, a place for the tach. wire. The Kohler has a fuel shut off solenoid that needs constant 12v while the engine is running and is tied into the starter solenoid. On the back of the engine plug there is a post with a red and a blue wire, the red one I connected to the yellow ( coil 12v ) wire and the blue one to the light blue ( starter solenoid ) wire. The fuel shut off is currently my only engine kill as the 520 key switch does not have a post that provides grounding in the off position. Here is the Basic layout: Tractor Kohler CH25S Oil Pressure - Dark Blue Oil Pressure - Green Starter Solenoid - Light Blue Starter Solenoid - Blue Tachometer - Gray Rectifier - AC Post Coil Positive - Yellow Carburator Solenoid - Red - formally connectedt to blue Battery + - Red Battery + - Heavy Red Ground - Black Ground - Black Cylinder Temperature - White Temperature Sensor Kill Switch - White The cylinder temperature probe needs a whole with 1/4 - 20 threads but the Kohler uses fine thread 1/4 so I had to tap one of the throttle bracket bolt wholes for it. this was the best location for a good reading while keeping it away from the exhaust port. The throttle cables worked good, just had to shorten the choke a bit. The oil drain from the Onan was the perfect fit for the Kohler also. As for the pto I needed to bend the top bracket to allow the muffler to line up properly. Last to be modded was the hood. Luckily the hood just clears the filter cover, but I had to notch for the muffler. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
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I acquired a 65 model 655, its got a HH70 engine on it along with a NEW 12v starter... Battery is charged, got voltage everywhere, but when I turn the key to start, nada, now when I turn the key to start and measure the voltage to the starter... i'm getting less the 1 volt dc.... so, bad starter key switch ? haven't tried jumping out the switch yet since I got the cover apart and don't want the thing spinning on me if it does work lol Thanks ahead fer input
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i went to start my mower yesterday and it seems that there is something wrong all that happens when I turn the ignition key is that it will make a tic sound and that's it I don't know if it's the starter or a bad solenoid or if it's just a bad ignition coil so if anyone has any ideas on what it might be please comment thanks
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Swapped out a Onan for a Kohler on a 516. no kill switch
davedean posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
The Onan 16 hp gave up so I installed a Kohler M16 . The problem is there is no way to kill the engine when I turn the key. The Kohler has a harness plug for plug and go with 4 wires, Violet, white and 2 black wires. I know what the wires are for, but I don't know how or if it's possible to shut down the motor with the WH key switch. There are 5 terminals on the key switch, B, S, I, A and R. I read how the continuity ( start, B, S, I and R run, B, I, A and R ) flows between the positions but there is no mention of a ground. R is not used, but is energized in both positions. I think I might have to install a separate switch for kill, but I am hesitant because I might leave the key switch in the run which will do damage to the engine's electrical (I think). Any suggestions? Thanks for you input Dave -
Please help me figure out a wiring issue on a 520h, 20hp Onan. I had a problem at the 30 amp fuse. It melted the wire in the fuse block. I repaired it and cleaned the ground wires by the PTO levever. It then started fine. I power washed the tractor to semi- restore it, cleaned it up. Now it won't start again. I have checked all of the safety switches but I am completely lost when it comes to wiring. The engine will turn over if I jump the light blue wire across to the red wire on the starter selinoid. I also can not find and actuate wiring diagram for the tractor. The one I have the wire colors don't jive. I also don't know what this is on the top of my Onan engine where these wires are plugging into. Can anyone please help!!!!
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Need to figure out why it isn't charging can someone point me in where to look first I cannot find a wiring diagram either
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I have a test switch that I need help with. It has three black wires and I think one goes to the red from the battery, one going to a grey wire that goes to the pcb board. Can someone tell me where the third wire goes. It is a 31-12K804. Thanks
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I have a 1989 wheelhorse 257-H Model 2217KE02 I need wiring help I can't find a single wiring diagram please help I can find for an 88 257-H but not an 89. Or if anyone can tell me I got 3 wires that come from seat switch orange,white, and a light green which wire goes where or can I just bypass seat safety switch completely.
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I've recently added an electrical fuel pump to my 1997 520-H and have had troubles finding terminals to fit into the key plug. I know the part I need for the fuse box terminals, but I don't know which terminals to get for the key. I've been to every auto shop and the like near me, they had nothing of the sort. The plug is Toro Part# 105302 and it's about $12 shipped, would this come with terminals? I would prefer not purchasing the whole plug, but I would if I had to. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi there I have a WH800 im trying to start up, after 10-15 years in a barn. I know it was running when it was placed there, but now i cant get a spark on it Engine turns fine (new bat) I have tried to replace the Coil - still no spark. I have tried to replace the ignition switch - still no spark I have replaced the plug - still no spark I have removed the flywheel. Everything looks nice, but how can I measure that it is? Magnets are fine, but how about the stators? (Blue on this engine) Just under the ignition switch there is a rectifier-regulator. If this one is dead (and how do i measure that?) can my spark disapere there? Please share your wisdom - i want my old WH back on the grass (Used to drive it at my grandparrents farmwhen i was a kid)
