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Showing results for tags 'd200'.
Found 25 results
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Hey all, I need to install a drive belt on my 75 D180 for my snowblower. I've looked through a bunch of D-series owner's manuals, and none seem to mention replacement procedure. The PTO pulley is fixed, save for engaging the PTO and there is minimal movement at the snowthrower pulley. There's no idler or tensioner as far as I can tell. Do I have to remove the PTO pulley? That seems to be a required service item. Same question for my 80 D200 as well really. Using the recommended 4L490W belt. Thanks
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Hey all, I'm doing my first fluid change on my new-to-me D200. Refilling the transmission is proving to be quite the struggle. I've attempted to fill the tranny through the dipstick with a variety of funnels, but the oil just spills over the top. I may have managed to get a quart in. What am I missing?
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I have a 1975 D200 Wheel Horse with front mount dozer blade, package includes Wheel Horse Dump Trailer, 48" belly mower side discharge, Wheel Horse front and rear wheel weights, turning brakes, rear PTO and 3-point to 2" receiver attachment, and Brinley twin disc harrow. Rear luggage/rack carrier, All refurbished, sandblasted and painted Ford red in 2016. Lots of extra Wheel Horse parts included. Package price $3000.00. Bryce Johnson 102 Anglers PT Mc Cormick SC 29835 913-638-6788 IMG_1962.HEIC IMG_1965.HEIC IMG_0279.HEIC
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Barn find 1975 D180. 608 original hours. Tractor and 48” belly mower look to be still in their original paint. Rear 60” finish mower looks like it has had one coat of new paint added at some point. Open to trades. Please email me with any questions or for additional photos. 35 miles north of Pittsbugh.
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Grandpa wouldn't line up in right way. Stubborn. Nice day today, got some of my herd out. 315-8 w/42" deck to mow. D200 to disc w/tandem disc. 520H w/36" tiller. And RJ59 with 36" Parker Sweeper. These horses done me well today.
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Guess since I broke the hub and found that bad axle keyway I’m going to pull the rear and rebuild it might as well, cause I need to replace the axle. This way I get a good look inside and inspect everything. Also change the bull gear bolts to mark 8, seals, bearings, whatever it needs. 1: looks like I’ll need to make a new gasket 2: Axle seals 3: Bull gear bolts and nuts 5/16 mark 8 4: O-rings 5: and Anything else as I inspect 6: Not sure what torque specs are but I'm sure someone will know. This way she will be tip top and painted. I will post pics as I go not sure when I’ll start but I need her fixed.
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I repowered my D200 last winter. I got the for/rev handle on wrong. It’ll just drift and has no resistance if you’re operating it. I would like to put a fiber washer in the linkage somewhere. Any ideas. These are just some pics of the repower.
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We added dye to the oil on a D200 to find an oil leak and discovered the leak seem to be coming from the bottom of the governor. We recently purchased this tractor so I do not know the history of it. After removing the governor we found what looks like a casting flaw. Not sure what else it could be. One picture shows the dye and the other the casting flaw? Any ideas what it is and best way to fix?
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We are putting this transaxle back together and noticed the parking brake pawl seems to be in bad shape. The part is NLA but someone said it could be mig welded and filed. I have never seen what it should look like. Is there supposed to be a "notch" in the pawls or should the weld be built up and then filed so there is no "notch"?
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Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
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I have a d200 that has one brake peddle and it does nothing. I was told it was a parking brake and I was better off leaving it that way since if something on the inside broke it could mess up my transmission, The linkage is connected but I haven't a clue as to why it isn't doing something. But taking it one more step I saw where the d200 also came out with a dual brake sys. and would like to know if I could economically convert mine and a recommended site as to where to get the needed parts.P.S. This is a working tractor that is in use. Not a show tractor. I would at some point be interested in putting a loader on it as well. Please for conveyance if you don't mind send me a response by e-mail jrrmcpk9@gmail.com
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Started another Big Project this morning. D200 With a Ark 550 Loader, got the loader off, needs all new lines, strip the paint and Paint, then start on the tractor, the starter is not engaging, I think its the starter drive, It sat out side for over 7 years, the loader has a good bucker and a wt. box. Will add more pics as I progress. I also have a center grader blade for this beast. This could be a all winter project. I have to get the loader frame work off yet. If someone wants the Tractor, I would take 300.00 cash just the way it sits, no loader. just the tractor.
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What oil filter does the motor take and the rear end ? It's a Kohler K532 motor. Thanks in advance.
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Hello again so now that I got my d200 wiring temperately figured out I moved on to the fuel system. The tractor has been sitting for about 3-4 years with gas in it so you can imagine the condition of the gas/water was in. I took the gas tank off and gave it a thorough cleaning the stuff coming out of it was more muddy water than it was gas. So after cleaning that out the best that I could I replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter going up to the Carburator but there was still no gas going to the carburator. So I sepected the fuel pump to be the issue so I replaced the fuel pump and still nothing. At that point I thought that I would take the bowl off the carb to see what condition the carb was in and that turned into taking the carb off and giving it a deep clean witch I should have done in the beginning. But I still don't have any fuel going to the carburator so I don't know if I'm missing something simple like a ajustment screw on the carburator or something so if one of you guys can think of something to try let me know. Thanks
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Looking for a front PTO plate only one hole left and its stripped. K532 Any info on other parts #'s that would fix would be appreciated.
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A D200 followed me home from Missouri. It has a blown engine so I am pulling the 20hp Kohler out of my D180. Is it just the two bolts I can see to seperate the flywheel from the pump? I have everything else off, ready to pull. These bolts:
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Hi I have a 1978 D200 wheelhorse powered by a Kohler twin cylinder engine It is used for grass cutting and has a 48inch cutting deck The manual PTO clutch is shot and I would like to fit an electric one Any ideas where to source a suitable one? Thanks Steve
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Today i finaly got my d200 running and there is a slight ticking noise. Im thinking i might have to adjust the valves but im not to sure were to do that any help?
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Just picked up a D200 this past summer. This is the tag on it 71-20KS01-5494 and a model number of 6320 . I think the first numbers would be 1971 year with a 20 hp motor after that I don't know. Any help with the numbers would be great. I am also looking where I can download a manual. I live in the Great white north upper Mi It doesn't have turning brakes on it but would be nice to have just before you get stuck if you guys know what I mean. Where would I find a cross reference chart or interchangeable list of what things fit what. I know I saw it here somewhere here. Thanks guys T Mix PS I would post a pic but it been a long time since I did that lol
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Can anyone help me figure out how I can get a replacement (new) starter for a 1974 D200? I'm not sure how I cross-reference from an old part number to a new replacement (if there is one). Thanks in advance for any guidance. Chris
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Hello, I am new to this forum and would really appreciate someone's help. I have a 312-8 with a broken deck. Someone is selling a 48" deck off of a D200 model but I am not sure if it will fit on my tractor and don't want to drive 120 miles in each direction to pick it up and find out it doesn't! So that is my question, will a 48" deck off a D200 fit on my 312-8? (He was not able to get a serial Number off the mower deck) Thanks
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1978 Wheel Horse D200 doing what it does best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCOxQkILr1M
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So after using our 18 auto last week and it running fine we headed down to the cabin this week and wanted to fine tune the PTO adjustment... thats when the fun started This week the tractor would start, w/ choke, and run for 10 seconds or so then die.... until it died it sounded fine then just putter out... tried it without choke and that had no effect... some of the stuff we have done : We rebuilt the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago... its the original fuel pump... we replaced all the fuel lines and the fuel filter at the same time. The gas tank is also original... We installed a new coil (the old one was leaking fluid but seemed to work) and re-gapped the points last week as well.. after scratching our heads we pulled the carb and cleaned it and adjusted the idle and main jets back to factory specs... the idle jet was set to 2 1/2 turns and the main jet was set to 4 1/4 turns before we set the idle to 1 1/4 and main to 2 turns... that might explain why the plugs were so black when we pulled them... I check the compression on both cylinders and they were both around 95 - 100 psi... Cleaning and adjusting the carb had no effect... it would still fire run for 10 seconds then quit... So here are my thoughts... even with the fuel pump rebuild its not putting out enough pressure... I hooked up a mityvac to the fuel line and did not see much pressure...not the 4 PSI I think is needed... more like just 1 or 2 PSI... I also hooked the mityvac up to the crank case vacuum line and saw a strong pulsing... The original gas tank is a bit rusty... I'm not sure if there is a filter in the gas tank that might not be allowing fuel to flow fast enough... I'm thinking if replacing the fuel pump with an electric one... it might not be the problem but I figure it shouldn't hurt I'm also thinking of pulling the gas tank and replacing it with a boat gas tank until I can clean and seal the current one... I'm thinking (doing way to much thinking ) that these will help but I want to hear others opinions... to me it seems like a fuel delivery problem... do others think this might be the case? if anyone has switched to an electric fuel pump I'd like to know which one... really any help would be appreciated thanks in advance...
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Has anyone come up with a Decent Replacement Muffler for a D 200?
racin_ny posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I've looked on here for a couple days but have found no real resolution for a D 200 replacement muffler. It appears my best bet might be dirt bike mufflers.That idea came from a post I saw from our friends across the pond. Does anyone have anything better for a stock position D 200 replacement muffler? -
Woke up this morning to 5" of new snow with 1/2" of ice on top. After breakfast I fired up the D and hit three driveways. The snow thrower slowly ate through the heavy snow & ice. The chute clogged twice so I had to slow down some. The fourth driveway was a different story. My D has the power but not the traction. The drive is about 100' long and most of it is uphill. Thye D just will not grab, even with chains and wheel weights. So I had to resort to my Deere with the snow plow. At least it will go UP the drive so I can plow DOWN the drive. Once I broke up the snow with the plow and pushed it as far as I could (which wasn't too far) I was able to chew through the piles and throw that stuff where it belongs. Now, all three of my elderly neighbors can get out if necessary, All in all, it was a good day.
