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Showing results for tags 'd180'.
Found 21 results
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Hey all, I need to install a drive belt on my 75 D180 for my snowblower. I've looked through a bunch of D-series owner's manuals, and none seem to mention replacement procedure. The PTO pulley is fixed, save for engaging the PTO and there is minimal movement at the snowthrower pulley. There's no idler or tensioner as far as I can tell. Do I have to remove the PTO pulley? That seems to be a required service item. Same question for my 80 D200 as well really. Using the recommended 4L490W belt. Thanks
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Hey all, My '74 D180 has a lot of trouble pushing snow. Weighted tires, but nothing else at this time. I've found it gets stuck frequently and only one wheel spins. Do these tractors not have a limited slip/locker arrangement? How does everyone manage with the infamous one wheel peel?
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I got a D-180 for $250, and the governor is messed up, the points won't open or close, and I took it apart and was being stupid and messed some stuff up in there, and now I need a new one. Where can I get one that's not on eBay for $200? I also forgot to say it was a Kohler K482, and I'll throw some pictures of the tractor in as a treat.
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I know I'm half a year ahead of schedule! I picked this 1974 D-180 up early last year. It had a pretty hard life, and the previous owner gave his best attempt at keeping it alive. Hydro was strong so I serviced it and put it to work mowing all year. I decided if it would make it through the season then it would get some TLC. By fall it was burning about a quart of oil an hour but it made it. I have no clue how many hours are on it, every hole, bushing, bearing on this tractor is pooched. If you look closely, somebody used two 1" NPT Pipe Flanges to rebuild the mounting points for the upper 3 point cylinder. Hey it works! I rebuilt the steering gearbox and re-bushed the front axle along with making new spindles. I had the 482 Kohler bored .20 over (it was .10 over already) and gave it a rebuild with the intention of putting it back to work on snow duty. I then dawned on me that this tractor will be 50 years old next year - and these old D's are becoming harder and harder to find anymore. So I decided to customize it a bit and go for what a maybe a dealership would offer for a 50th anniversary model if Wheel Horse was still in business today (In another universe, maybe!) As D's aren't known for their looks - and I can't leave anything alone. I took approximately 2 Inches out of the grille and bezel. I updated most of the wiring and lights. Gave it a new set of Carlisle Ags along with Vredestein front ribs. It got a new seat and I painted all the accents aluminum. I patched, rebuilt the 48" deck and put new blades, wheels, and hardware on it. The Blade & 3 point scoop somebody adapted to it also got some attention. Lastly I stripped it most of the way down and painted it with IH red acrylic urethane enamel. I always forget to take pictures during my projects but here's a few: Before: After: Thanks for reading!!
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Barn find 1975 D180. 608 original hours. Tractor and 48” belly mower look to be still in their original paint. Rear 60” finish mower looks like it has had one coat of new paint added at some point. Open to trades. Please email me with any questions or for additional photos. 35 miles north of Pittsbugh.
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I know in the past someone posted up the sizes/numbers for the o-rings that fit between the hydro pump and the steel lines' manifold blocks on the D-series - I'd imagine the ones at the pump end and rear axle are the same ....? Will be changing my pump soon due to the hydro to engine coupler blew out it's splines and took out the shaft along with it . Evidently a trailer weighing around 2.5 tons was too much.... I'll try to write up a post on how to build a new coupler from a later model C series pump pulley's center ring and a worn D coupler as well - trying to finish up the Ross steering box right now . Sarge
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I have a D-180 that broke an axle I have got all new parts and have removed transaxle from machine. The 2 parts I am missing for re assembly are the metal screen with magnet for inside trans and a new gasket from transaxle to pump. I have done some looking and can not find these parts. I have the old screen but the rubber gasket on the end of it has some rot and is apart from the screen. The gasket is still in place but i would feel better putting in a new one before re build. Thanks for your help
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Fast question ... Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here... The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ? Sarge
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Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
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I just got this 74 D-180 for $450. Seems to run good, needs choke lever, pto belt, gas tank is a cobble-job, hydros seem to work. Just wanted to see what you folks thought. What would you pay? Also where can I find a front end loader? They seem hard to come by. Sorry for cut-off pics....I didn't take them!
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OK, for the second time now, something inside the tranny on my D180 has broken the dipstick from the "full" mark down. It's currently inside the bottom of the transmission. Anyone have any thoughts on why this is happening? The first time it happened, I noticed that the threaded tube that it travels down was bent. So I thought that was the issue. But the new one is perfectly straight, and the same thing happened again.
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Hi: I am a new member and have owned a 1075 Wheel-a-Matic, a great hydo tractor. I have my eye on a D180 and need to know what to look for when I inspect it. I own some Simplicities and know what to look for with those machines, but would like some guidance on the D180. Thanks.
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Several times I've seen posts about adding rubber "wipers" to the snowblower auger for better throw and to minimize clogging. Can someone enlighten me here? I think I know what you're referring to, but how would I know what to get, how big, how many, etc. Will this enable me to clean right down to the concrete? I'm using the blower for a D180.
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The manual for the d-180 calls for 6 quarts of oil in the transmission. When I do that, it's well above the full line. When I start the tractor, it seems normal. If I only fill it to the full line, then start the tractor, it's way below the full line. What's right? I've been using the 6 quart recommendation on a "dry" transmission (assuming all the oil is drained down to the transaxle) and have not had any problems, but I don't want to create one either. Any thoughts?
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Ok, these stupid ATV rear tires have to go - if nothing else just for the plethora of holes in them and the leaks , not to mention they are too short in height .... Prefer to run the stock 26x12x12's so I don't have to find a set of rims . I run the Carlisle True Power ags on my other machines but the cost factor right now is not good for that brand with shipping added . I have a local Goodyear dealer that has a US made ag available for $108/ea and no shipping charges but it will cost for the local taxes . Need to call and find out what exact "brand" those are , he did say he preferred the overlapping v-bar on them compared to the Carlisle design and said they seem to bite better as well . What is everyone running , and where to buy ? Sarge
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New to Red Square and new to wheel horse. Pictured is what I think is a D180 that my father-in-law acquired around 2008. He disassembled it to repair a crack and I have been slowing putting it back together. When the tractor came to me all the panel where sand blasted and bare except the fuel tank he painted and a few panels that I painted. I've spent several weekends painting and reassembling and I'm pretty sure I got every thing in the right place. All that is left is to finish the wiring, install new fuel hose and the seat and find some mufflers. I have one NOS muffler but I rather try find suitable subs or to fab up some mufflers than use an NOS one.
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Auto 18. Help rewiring ignition after electric fire.
wheelhorse-c-161-1979 posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work. I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch. After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition. Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition. Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition. Very grateful for any help. Thank you. Jack -
A couple weeks ago, I picked up this D180 and snow blade for $200. It doesn't run because it needs rewired and the air breather put on. The seller still has the air breather which he'll send to me as soon as he finds it. The tractor has hydraulics, drawbar and brand new Carlisle Ag tires on the rear. I would like to get it running but will need some help. First, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a D180? Where can I find a manual for this? Also, where would be a place to get parts for this? The tractor is entirely intact (minus the air breather) except for a couple sheet metal panels which I'd like to put on. Thanks in advance! -IvanW
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I'm sure this has been addressed before. I've been hauling around a trailer full of gravel around my yard quite a bit over last couple of weeks with my D180. No problems moving it around, but when I'm climbing a hill, or moving it from a stopped position, The hydro complains by whining as they typically do, but more so because of the strain. My question is... Is this just something I should expect from a hydro system? If I'm running the tractor full throttle or close to it, do I run the risk of blowing something out if I push to hard? Will I stall the engine like a geared tranny? I don't want to break anything, but maybe I'm babying it too much.
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My D-180's steering box grease reservoir must have a hollow leg. I've pumped more grease into that thing expecting to, at some point, see it ooze out somewhere to know it's filled. I've yet to see any grease! Is it possible it's filling in the tube that that the steering shaft runs through? Or could it be that empty?
