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Showing results for tags 'd-series'.
Found 178 results
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'74 D-180 My friction disc in gone on my clutch. I saw the old post about making a new friction disc, so I'm not concerned about that. I managed to remove the front clutch plate and double v-belt pulley. But I can't separate the two. When I took the assembly off the spiraloc washer popped off on its own. I HAVE READ THE MANUALS. So I should be able to just remove the pulley from the front clutch and continue with step 4. The v-belt pulley is loose as all hell and flops around like a dead fish. It seems to be hung up on a ring or bearing race. So my thoughts are grab a BFH or sparky the blue tip wrench. Is there an unpublished step 3.5, or some trick?
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Hey all, I need to install a drive belt on my 75 D180 for my snowblower. I've looked through a bunch of D-series owner's manuals, and none seem to mention replacement procedure. The PTO pulley is fixed, save for engaging the PTO and there is minimal movement at the snowthrower pulley. There's no idler or tensioner as far as I can tell. Do I have to remove the PTO pulley? That seems to be a required service item. Same question for my 80 D200 as well really. Using the recommended 4L490W belt. Thanks
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Hey all, My '74 D180 has a lot of trouble pushing snow. Weighted tires, but nothing else at this time. I've found it gets stuck frequently and only one wheel spins. Do these tractors not have a limited slip/locker arrangement? How does everyone manage with the infamous one wheel peel?
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I got a D-180 for $250, and the governor is messed up, the points won't open or close, and I took it apart and was being stupid and messed some stuff up in there, and now I need a new one. Where can I get one that's not on eBay for $200? I also forgot to say it was a Kohler K482, and I'll throw some pictures of the tractor in as a treat.
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Hello fellow Horse Heads long time no post for me, life gets crazy & a lot of things change sometimes but anyhoo. So back a few years ago when I first got my 1994 314-H I had it at my shop going threw it. One of my customers walk past as im working and said, you know I think Iv got a Wheel Horse & im thinking "no you dont buddy". I give him my # to send pics thinking it was a big waste of time & after getting the pics I realized he did have a Wheel Horse! I hand shake bought it right there, asked him to bring it to my store & he said no problem. Well after almost 2 years it is finally in my orbit. I know very little about it other than his father-inlaw got it new and used it around his house moving snow and stuff. His father inlaw moved down south here when his daughter got married and gave the tractor to my customer because he had a farm & his the inlaw had no use for it anymore. Same with every barn find, "it was running when parked" 8 years ago, said one of the axel seal is leaking. Im happy and hope I can get it back in running order soon cause it is going to be handy around the truck farm!! I will post Pics as soon as I reinstate my membership
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Hi everyone! Long time since i was here and my old pics is gone from the forum. I just uploaded a movie with pics on youtube, and thought i could share it for you guys. I would love to get some comments on my Youtube channel, from you true Wheel Horse fans! Thanks and Best Regards
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Does this look factory for 1976
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Anyone be able to measure out the Top Link Bar for the 50” D Series Tiller? Just finished rebuilding a tiller, have a adjustable type but would like to put a original type on like the manual has listed.
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What gauges were standard on wheel horse D160 D180 D200 series tractors? Was the dash light only an option on the D200? On D180 and D200 series tractors I've seen, it seems like they all had Ammeter, oil pressure, and transmission temperature. I've only seen engine hours and dashlight on one D200. I'm not sure about D160. I have never seen one up close. Thanks.
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I know I'm half a year ahead of schedule! I picked this 1974 D-180 up early last year. It had a pretty hard life, and the previous owner gave his best attempt at keeping it alive. Hydro was strong so I serviced it and put it to work mowing all year. I decided if it would make it through the season then it would get some TLC. By fall it was burning about a quart of oil an hour but it made it. I have no clue how many hours are on it, every hole, bushing, bearing on this tractor is pooched. If you look closely, somebody used two 1" NPT Pipe Flanges to rebuild the mounting points for the upper 3 point cylinder. Hey it works! I rebuilt the steering gearbox and re-bushed the front axle along with making new spindles. I had the 482 Kohler bored .20 over (it was .10 over already) and gave it a rebuild with the intention of putting it back to work on snow duty. I then dawned on me that this tractor will be 50 years old next year - and these old D's are becoming harder and harder to find anymore. So I decided to customize it a bit and go for what a maybe a dealership would offer for a 50th anniversary model if Wheel Horse was still in business today (In another universe, maybe!) As D's aren't known for their looks - and I can't leave anything alone. I took approximately 2 Inches out of the grille and bezel. I updated most of the wiring and lights. Gave it a new set of Carlisle Ags along with Vredestein front ribs. It got a new seat and I painted all the accents aluminum. I patched, rebuilt the 48" deck and put new blades, wheels, and hardware on it. The Blade & 3 point scoop somebody adapted to it also got some attention. Lastly I stripped it most of the way down and painted it with IH red acrylic urethane enamel. I always forget to take pictures during my projects but here's a few: Before: After: Thanks for reading!!
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D250 with attachments, spare parts and manual collection
blu_stang posted a classfied in Wheel Horse Sold Archive
Hi All, It's time for me to sell the D-250 I've had for the last 8 years. It’s useable as is, or would be a great project bundle for further restoration. I am selling a large package: the running tractor, a refurbished snowblower (48”), parts snowblower, mower deck (60”), tiller (40”), front plow blade (60”), Cat 0 3-Point Hitch with adjustable top link, WH 3-Point tool bar, wheel weights and tire chains. Also included is an extensive part collection, nearly a second tractor worth. I will include the original manuals, an original 1976 sales brochure, and repair manuals for the tractor and the engine. I made electronic copes of all of the above, and stored the paper copies to prevent further wear. This is one of the most complete D-250 tractor/attachment bundles I’ve seen. Some highlights from the available parts: Frame rails, extra engine, water pump, extra transaxle, extra gears, including worm gears (stored in oil bath), Front wheel set, carburetor, carb rebuild kit, rebuildable original radiator, extra radiator overflow bottle, rebuilt alternator, new voltage regulator (I was planning to change over to an alternator setup from the generator), new in package Renault engine seals, new PTO seals, ignition maintenance parts. There are also many panels, frame pieces, cables, levers, tubes (lines) and hardware in the collection. The tractor engine runs smooth. There are around 1050 original hours on it; It’s a 1976 edition. Everything works, except the dash lights and the rear lights (disconnected b/c of fender). I just haven't sorted out the wiring, but it is all there. Headlights are good and working, as are all of the gears and levers. The four tires are nearly new Carlisle Multi Trac, with nubs still on them. The rear tires have been filled (ballasted) with Rim Guard for extra traction. The hydraulic pump, front PTO clutch and brakes operate but could use a tune up. I’ve used it for mowing and snowblowing on hills, driveway and around my land. I don’t have an original WH seat. The snowblower was rebuilt a few years back, and assembled with all new hardware and bearings. The mower deck gearbox was professionally serviced recently, and has a new set of blades with only a half dozen mows. The rear fender needs a repair, but all pieces are available. The plow and tiller are due for restoration. The Points, Condenser and rotor have all been replaced and tuned in. The battery is good. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel pump and changed out the plugs within the last 30 hours. The replacement radiator is from a Kawasaki engine; it was installed with new hoses. There are also new custom hydraulic hoses and a new hydraulic lift cylinder. Here's a video of me mowing, this past summer. Transporting this haul in one trip will require a pickup truck and a large trailer. -
I bought a 3 point hitch from someone on Face book but the 3 point hitch lift assembly bearings were not included. The are NLA. Does any know a supplier for these or have two they are willing to sell? I looked at McMaster and could not find one with the sizes needed. The part# is 8340 in the 3 point hitch diagram below. Thank You.
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What direction does the front PTO Pulley turn on a wheel horse D180 with a Kohler K482 as you face the front of the tractor? I want to get a hydraulic pump for a Johnson 10 loader I will be mounting to tractor and want to make sure I get a pump that rotates the correct direction.
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568 downloads
Operator manual #A-5326 Wiring 6 pages 2.01MB Dated 7/72 Wiring Color pdf from operator manual 1 page 315KB Terminals on 101917 ignition switch may not be identified. This switch has been replaced by 92-6785. 3 pages 269KB Lube chart SS 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0600 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0601 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0610 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0620Free
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Is it seriously that hard to remove the hub on a D? I figured while I was doing some other work that put the tractor out of commission, I would pull the hub on the one side and replace a leaking seal. Put on a puller, loosened the square headed locking bolts and started cranking away. It moved fairly easily for about an inch and a half then got so tight I was afraid I'd bust it! Decided to put it back on and it took a monumental effort to get it back to the starting point. Ended up damaging the lip of the hub. Had to use a sledge hammer. Someone please tell me that it's really hard to do any damage to the tranny by wacking that hub back on! Still don't have the seal off and now I have to replace the hub once I finally get it off.
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I was looking for Ross steering parts and "found" the gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm website. I have not ordered anything, only sent an email with questions. Today I noticed the post in the Red Square Links for "not recommended suppliers". I am glad I did not send any money. I am rebuilding a Ross Steering box on a Wheel Horse D180. The Ross Steering box has the code below stamped on the column. SCA 10200 Where can I get these items? - Complete Lower Steering Box Bearing and Cup/Race Kit - Full Set. Includes two plastic bearing cages/ball spacers. - 9/16" Diameter Cam Follower (Steering Pin). - Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing to replace the insert at the top of the column. Looks like it's a little bigger than 1 3/8" OD with a 3/4" ID - “Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit. For models with 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. I have seen some of these parts on the auction site but was hoping for someplace I could order everything from. Thank You.
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I'm having some trouble getting my D180 to keep running when the gas tank gets below a certain point. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. Am I correct in thinking there is a vacuum pump on those things? The connection seems to be a bit loose and my hunch is that it's not sucking the fuel like it should. I know a couple people have had success with electric fuel pumps. Any thoughts out there?
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On my D200, when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, it has a tight turn radius, but when I turn it all the way to the right, the turn radius is significantly wider. The tie rods appear to be adjusted evenly. Anyone have a similar problem and what was done to fix it? The steering does have quite a bit of play, at least 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the wheel.
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Hi all, I am new here and am new to the wheel horse tractors. I bought a property and a D-240 came with it. Can anyone give me an idea of the year range it could be ? It does have a Koehler motor. It runs really good, I was doing a little plowing with it and it blew a shaft seal off the hydro transmission pump ? Any links to literature for removing the pump or suggestions from anyone here that knows more about these, who can point me in the right direction? much appreciated thanks I have taken it partially apart
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Hydraulic pressure testing for hydrostatic transmissions
BMW1 posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
What brand of gauge and/or setup are people using to test the pressure in their hydrostatic transmissions? The wheel horse hydrostatic manual says to use a 0-1000 psi gauge. The gauge in the picture in the manual(page 25 in Sunstrand Hydro (part 1).pdf) only goes to 600psi - which is probably fine as long as it's not used to test the cylinders. I found several test gauges, but most are 0-3000 or more. I found a couple that were 0-1000 but the increment lines on the gauge are around 50-60, which means the gauge would move only a small amount. The manual says the pressure should be between 75 and 150 psi. Most of the reasonably priced digital gauges I saw had bad reviews. -
Well a little late to post this (actually months late but hey life happens) but I purchased this D250 which runs rough and is stuck in low range but still moves. Over the next few months myself along with my father are going to tear this beast down and completely rebuild this back to its former glory. I also have the original mower deck to go along with it. If anyone has any incite on these tractors feel free to comment. I will post pictures along the way.
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Is there a procedure for adjusting the motion control linkage on a 1974 D-180 - model# 1-0611 9 ? The tractor barely moves in reverse and the motion control arm is not traveling the full length of the slot for reverse. The picture below shows how far back it goes. The motion control arm travels all the way forward to the end of the slot when going forward. I never drove this tractor before I bought so I have no idea what it did before. The only thing I have done to it is replace a couple of bearings in the differential and replace the axles, splines were bad on one and other axle was bent. Thanks.
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D series transaxle axle bearing and seal installation question
BMW1 posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
I have not had to do this before and want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. Picture of bearing and seal is attached. Is the bearing supposed to fit in the groove of the oil seal or is the seal supposed to flush against the bearing? I think the latter is correct? Thanks -
Have some questions or like some feedback from those of you on RedSquare who have or still use one. One of the higher ups at my work picked one up 4 or 5 years ago at an estate sell somewhere out east on the Chesapeak Bay....thats what he told me? He knew I was a WheelHorse fan & teased me with it at first & also asked me questions about it. I was always under the impression the 250's were the step child of WheelHorse & to stay away. Recently I brought it home to fix a few minor things for the owner & even took it to Scott's M&G. So...the owner has offered it to me & after playing around with it for a few weeks now & it's growing on me. Just over 400Hrs, very quiet, steering is tight, trans works perfect, comes with a 50+" hyd angle snow blade, 60" deck, tiller, & has a 3PH. From what I understand about the D250's it was the earlier mordels that had transmission issues. This is a later model & has the dual hyd outputs on the front. Other than a few minor things...hood straps are broke, fender has one crack in it, paint is faded (my coworker stored it in an outside lean to). How well do these things work...you know mow, push snow, etc, etc? I have around 5 acres to mow now & really appreciate the larger tires on this import Horse. Are there any things to look out for? The local auto parts place seems to have it pretty well covered on most maintanance parts as well as some stuff for bigger fixes. Will the trans hold up, can parts be found for them if something does break. Just looking for some input from any D250 users here.
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I've got the rivets showing through on the clutch brake for my d-180. Toro says the part is NLA. I'm sure this has been discussed before, but how can I replace the friction material so I don't damage anything since I now have metal touching metal? Doesn't seem like rocket science, but I'm not sure where to start.
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