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Showing results for tags 'c120'.
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Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.
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C120, 1974/75 I added braces and shims to the rear end of the frame to beef up the cracked existing 'frame to transmission bracket'. Now, the parking brake does not engage. The shims are about 1/8" and have to stay on. Is there a way to adjust the parking brake?
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Finished up work on the A800 ranger. Time to figure out the c120. The ranger got; Complete rewire. 👍 New points.👍 Re-timed and a new head gasket.👍 Carb rebuild. 👍 Full service. 👍 My daughter is gonna use it this year. She has just under 1/2 an acre to cut. Now the challenge is the c120. Picked this up in Jan. Price was right and I was really just after the motor but the rest of it just had to come home too. Not sure if it's all there but the fun will be in finding out. So far I figure a broken clutch pedal and one rotted tire. The po had already taken it apart to restore but other things got in the way. The motor is stout and roars like a tiger. I'm gonna put it all back together first...... fix what I find then tear down to restore. It's the transmission I don't know about. Po said it works fine......... Hmmmmm. Don't know much about them at the moment but "forum" research ans help here I come!!! Transaxle oil is low but clean and the tow valve doesn't look like it's been loosened for a while. The frame sat outside for a year. Thought I might change the oil and run it with an electric motor to see????? The axles are free and smooth. Anything I should be careful of?????
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Help time please.... The k301 for my c120 (bought the tractor literally in pieces but all there I think???? ) is missing the fuel pump. I've check the engine out with the ol intravenous method and its . Ebay will sell you one for anywhere from $20 - $160. I know you get what you pay for but....... really????? Isave tractors has one in the $50 range. Any experience with the plethora (is that really a word??) of 301 pumps out there?
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I've got a c120 8 speed that started it's life as a work horse 800. I'm having a hard time finding the correct belt and getting the belt guard to fit. Did the real C120 have a different belt guard than the 800?
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Just scored what I believe to be a c120. But I'm not sure. It has the 3 speed unidrive, which I know is incorrect. Not sure if it's been swapped or if something else is out of place. It looks the serial number plate was stamped twice!?
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Ok, so I've found out just where the oil is leaving the transmission on my C120 8 speed from around 1974. Removed the brake "drum" and discovered a thin ring around the axle, is this part of the seal and can this be replaced without tearing the whole transmission? I found several posts & youtube videos about replacing axle seals, but none about the brake axle seal... Since this is the lowest axle, the oil-level is to low to determine if axle seals are bad too... I'm uncertain of what transmission I've got so trying to find the manual for it has been hard, someone who can help? Yanking the axel I can just about feel a play, is this OK, or should I replace the bearing too?
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Hi folks. Formerly a John Deere owner, I recently purchased a 1976 C120 Wheel Horse tractor. I was looking for something more heavy duty. The JD was basically a lawn tractor. I tried plowing and snow blowing with it, but it just couldn't handle it. So I found someone with an older Wheel Horse. I went to see it and it was in really good shape for a 40 year old tractor. The best thing was that it came with a snow blower that looks like it was hardly used. It was like 5 degrees out when I went to look at it and the engine was stone cold. Choked it, turned the key and she fired right up. Sold ! I brought it home and checked it all out. it was all there and working great. So I decided to tear it down and restore it before I start using it for the season. It did not come with a mower deck but i was able to find one 2 hours away. I will be restoring that next. So it already had a new battery,fresh oil and new spark plug and wire. I stripped it down and cleaned, prepped and painted everything. I used Krylon Super Maxx Gloss Banner Red. Really good match. I also used gloss white for the rims and gloss black for a few things. I used Rustoleum high heat black on the head and exhaust. 4 new tires were installed. Hi Run WD1043 16x6.5-8 on the front and Carlisle Tru Power 23x8.5-12 on the rear. I found a new seat from Northern Tool which fit perfectly. It is a high back Kubota tractor seat model 53,000bk. $99.00. I mounted a winch that I bought at Harbor freight under the rear seat pan.There was a dummy plug in the dash already so install was easy.I made 2 diamond plate foot pieces. The aluminum rods were removed and polished also. I think it came out really good and now I have a great old tractor to snow blow in the winter and take care of my yard in the summer. Just thought I would share with all you Wheel Horse lovers. D
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Hey guys I found someone selling a 2 bottom plow and a disc harrow which is supposed to be from a 1960s Wheel Horse. I want to put it on my 1976 C120. Has anyone seen one of these before or know how it would attach to my tractor? Does anyone know if these are really made by Wheel Horse? Thanks Darrell
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Hello, first off please forgive me if I have made an error in going about this on your forum. I have several wheel horse parts that are brand new original oem replacement parts for a 1974 c120 (I think) I don't know anything about them. I was curious what there value is, i cant find them anywhere and when i do it just says discontinued. Here are the parts I'm currently curious about Tire rod assembly - part # 111412 Assembly clutch bar part # 103227 Taillight base part # 105202 I also have a part that just has a hand written tag on it, says "deck list for 48" 42" wheel horse" it appears to be a part that holds the blade deck up. Any input is appreciated.
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I have a 1974 C120 automatic I am trying to attach a 42 inch rear discharge mower deck. The ID tag says either 95-42MR02 or 05-42MR02 it's hard to read the first number looks more like 95-42MR02 to me. I do not have the lift rod for the deck and I don't know where it attaches or which holes in the deck and lift lever to attach it to. I can get the belt hooked up and the mid tach-a-matic hooked up I am only having problems with the lift mechanism. If anyone has any pictures how to attach the lift I would greatly appreciate it.
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wheel Horse c120 wiring harness NEW IN SEALED PACKAGE
Cttopcop posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Just letting everyone know I have a brand new new sealed package wiring harness for a wheel horse c120 i bought out a small engine repair shop of all their NOS parts. Mostly chain saw, trimmer parts but this gem was in the box. They use to be a wheel horse dealer. It is the only wheel horse part I found. Available this week on eBay our user name is caseyfamily9102 -
First post here! new to red square. new to wheel horse. new to garden tractors... complete rookie here! i purchased a used non running wheel horse yesterday from an ad on craigslist mostly for the implements. i also bought another tractor yesterday, a craftsman gt6000 18hp horizontal shaft. well, i was hanging out with my best friend (google) and i think i figured out my tractor is most likely a 1974 Wheel Horse c120 automatic with a tecumseh hh120. made a quick video and posted on youtube. first time ever posting on youtube so....
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i just posted a new thread in wheel horse section but i figured the tech talk for starting motor should be on seperate thread so this thread could stay on topic and hopefully that can help anyone later looking up similar problem with same motor. it seems the c120 wheel horse mostly came with a kohler, or it is just more popular from my searches online. ok well i just bought a c 120 and it has a hh120 tecumseh that will not start. i dont know where to start on it as i pretty much suck at anything mechanical. BUT!! i search online A LOT and from what i have seen on RED SQUARE more than any other forum is the help you guys provide seems to be just awesome! so i joined up here. i also joined to share this red tractor with you guys here. first thing i did was i turned the key... nothing at all, no noise. jumped the battery and turned the key and motor turned. did not start. so i disconnected the spark plug wire from spark plug and turned key to see if there was spark jumping the gap... all i got was a click then nothing. checked the voltage and it was 13+ volts on battery/jumper. thinking i just ruined something else with it i just stopped there... Any help you guys could provide will be greatly appreciated. please keep in mind that i do not have much experience at all working on motors like this. Thanks!
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c120 automatic--transmission engages...sometimes
crm227 posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Folks-- Need a little help here. Have a '76 c120 automatic. Starts right up and engine runs great. Moved fine in fwd and reverse at the beginning of the snow season, but past two times I've plowed with it the transmission (or something) has quit on me in the middle of a plow. Usually first happens when I'm stopping to put it into reverse. Might catch a little, but then stops. No noises, nothing else noticeable. If I had to find something to comment on, it would be that the lever to engage the transmission feels like it has less resistance than normal. In the past, I've let it sit for a little and then it's worked. Other times it will start working, then I'll shut it off a minute later and when I restart--nothing. Last night I went to turn it around in the garage and got halfway through a 3 point turn before she just stopped moving. Again--no noise and no engine problems. One other point--when this happens the tractor can be pushed without having to unlock the push valve. But I've never tried pushing it that way--just noticed that I could. Valve opens and closes fine, but at this point there isnt any noticeable difference when it's open versus when it's close. It's that last point that worries me. Whaddya think? Chris
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