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Showing results for tags 'bearings'.
Found 10 results
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I have a snowblower that has a bad bearing inside the auger on the chain side. Took it apart, and now I can't find a bearing like the one I need! One thing I need to know is if these parts are metric or American? If it is American, it is a 3/4" inside diameter, 1 5/8" outside diameter, 7/16" width. Anybody have a place they get them? Near Rochester, MN. It is a model 53321 snowblower I think as the model # plate is really scratched up.
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Where's your go-to source for QUALITY 103119 bearing shaft assemblies? Also, I don't have my deck apart yet, but seem to remember they're tough to remove from the housings. Any tips or tricks? Finally, just recently I've had a couple of the center bearings go loose on two different decks. Once is one thing, but twice? More than a coincidence? Should I be releasing tension on the belt by loosening the mule drive when not in use? We've had WH tractors for over 40+ years and I've never done that before! THANKS in advance!
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Question. I have a 1990 single stage snow thrower for my 312-8. I am trying to replace the bearings on the drive shaft. How do you remove them? I have taken out the set screw, soaked the collar in pb blaster, put some heat to them, pounded on them. etc. They will not move. Am I missing something? The only thing that is curious is, there is only one set screw in each bearing collar. There appears to be a second partially drilled hole but no set screw installed and it does not appear to be tapped. What gives??? Rich In Walworth
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Hi folks: The wheel bearings in one of the front wheels of my 416-8 imploded the other day while mowing. 32 years old, I'm not complaining. Anyway, with the advice of another thread I picked up a set of 4 flanged bearings off an ebay seller. . .3/4" ID, 1 3/8" OD. Problem is they are a loose fit in the wheel hub. I should need to tap them in, but they just slide in and out. No real play, but they can just fall out. The insides of the hubs are clearly worn. Any advice on snugging up the bearings" Thanks, J
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Good Morning everybody! I am in the process of sharpening the blades for my mowing deck (Model 78360 - Serial 7904987) and I noticed that the deck has a crack in it right where the bracket to the mounting hardware (to the tractor) is. SO I know I have to get that repaired. But while I was at this, I thought I could do a good quick once over on the deck to make sure I am ready for the season. What I would like to do is the following: Change the bearings for the spindles (or pack them with more grease) Get new rear tires (since they squeak) And that's about it If anyone here thinks I should do anything else, I would love to hear it! Where does everyone get the hardware (bearings, wheels for these rebuilds?)
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Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate. Thanks Marc
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Hello, everyone and thank you in advance. I got bit by the bug a few months ago and bought a 1974 b 80 the rod broke, about a month after i bought it. So to keep my 4yr old mowing i picked up a c120 auto and i was going to change rear wheel seals pulled the hub to find the axle moves up and down and side to side about an 1/8" what's involved in put in new bearing and does it need to be done now or a winter project. Thanks PS sorry about the grammar
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Well maybe not for free but on a budget! Some of you old timers may already know this trick. I wash my horses & decks alot. Almost after every mowing i wash the tops of the decks off and have underside quick wash connects installed on all of my mowers. The price I pay for all this cleanliness is usually payed back in the form of noisy deck pulleys, idlers & spindle bearings. Hence I have been known to spend a small fortune on pulleys & idlers that, for some, can be 40-to 50 bucks a wack. So after finally figuring out that these things just have common bearings in them that could be replaced if they weren't welded in tighter than a buxom beautie in a brass bra!! Alas no more.... First step is wire brush the offending noise maker so you can identify where it is spot welded together. Usually a dark spot or a dimple marks the spot. Center punch the spot, notice the symetrical patern of the welds. Next drill out the welds starting with 1/8" bit then 1/4". proceed to 5/16' if it appears that 1/4 " did not take out 90% of the weld. Next position the pully on a block of wood and separate the halfs. Use a small cold chisel. It may take a bit of effort to separate them. If the half bend a little they can be hammered strait after apart. Remove the bearing & drive out the bushing if it has one.
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When going thru my front end I decided to replace the front wheel bearings, the real common 1 3/8" x 3/4". After getting a set of four off ebay they came with the grease seals on both the outside and inside. Question is should I remove the seals on the backside and continue to grease thru the zerk or let them ride as sealed bearings? My inclination is to let them ride as sealed bearings.
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Hi to all looking for exploded view of shaft spacers and bearing numbers. Sealed bearing on top needle bearing cage on bottom. Only thing good is tower every thing else is junk. pulley spun on top of shaft. Can you still buy pulleys? And if so part # and where Any help would be great.
