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Found 106 results
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Not sure on specific model. This 8 spd came attached to a plow I bought. It had some water in it for a couple weeks according to the prior owner. I drained it, sloshed some diesel in it, drained that, then filled with fresh oil. Spinning the input shaft by hand, I can see the axels turn. Hasn't leaked any oil. I'm not really interested in shipping, so I'd prefer local sales.
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Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
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8 Speed Hi-Low shifter fork repair and design
r1jakecfd posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Hi Everyone, The Tranny in my 310-8 would not shift from high to low so I decided to "crack" it open. I'm sure many of you could quickly forecast the problem. Yes, the beloved Hi-Lo shifter was in 2 pieces! I had never dealt with this before but after researching it on this site it seems like a pretty common problem. I have 2 questions: First, has anyone had any success with a weld repair on this part. Second, has anyone proactively "beefed up" or extended the welds on this part to decrease the failure rate? It seems like the short weld bead ends at the thinnest part of the sheet metal component. It seems like If you extended the weld bead further around the circumference of the peg then it would reduce stress and solve the failure problem. The only thing that I'm not sure about is if there would be enough clearance with the extra weld bead around the gears? Any help would be greatly appreciated! John -
I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism. This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential. Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing. The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole. I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures. The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera). Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy. Hope this helps you guys. correction... According to the manual the bolts that hold the differential together are in backwards in the video. The nuts should be on the input shaft side (right side) of the transmission. Sorry, I missed that. Just got the trans split. I use a 1" old wood chisel to start and then work the case apart with a pry bar. A couple shots after getting the case half off...trans is in neutral. The trans case works as a work bench for the differential...very cool Here is the reason the trans needed to be opened. An axle gear lost it's teeth and the pieces were lodged in the pinions. Finished and back together. The rest are the videos...1st on is the differential... Next 2 are dealing with the hi/low mechanism...1st one taking apart and the 2nd on putting together...be nice...it was my first time. Now, 2 videos putting the rest of the trans together...batteries died just before I finished the first video. Thanks for looking
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Would someone be able to measure the length of or even take a picture of the last couple inches of 416-8 uni-drive transmission dipstick? I jacked and drained tranny, just a little more than 3 qts, flushed with diesel, and serviced with 2 qts of Lucas 80W-90. Nothing on the stick. The stick ends right after the PN 106447, may be broken off perfectly smooth, and has always been that way since I bought 5-6 years ago. I noticed it but didn't think much about it due to an inch of fluid being on the stick when you checked the level, the extra 1+ qt of oil. Assumed the top of PN on stick must be full line. The oil I drained looked fine, just a little fine metal flake from the oops's over the years from accidental grind and go's (or remains of the missing dipstick?). No appearance of water contamination. I changed the fluid due to a low whine I can't say I noticed over the years or at least it sounds a little louder if was present before. No change in whine after oil change either. Just over 450hrs on it so maybe just "broken-in" whine? Bought with 225 hrs on it from a local old timer Cub Cadet restorer who had changed all the fluids before selling it for a friend. Just to note, the whine has a bit of a hydro tranny noise to it. The higher the range, gear, and speed the louder it is, no whine in neutral. Not too concerned about the whine, just have nothing to compare to. The other 416 is an H to push around the two-stage blower, which I bought together this March. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the hydro compared to the -8 though. Love the -8, hydro is a bit sketchy to operate and drinks gas. May need to buy the pedal control kit I see posted here. Thanks up front for any help guys. Maybe my first post but you all have already helped me quite a bit with your experience and knowledge reading the old posts over the years. Great site.
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New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
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My 252-H Just stopped going into drive? Help?
pjgchlm posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
I have owned a 252-H for 18 plus years and it has been great. It just stopped going into drive, forward and reverse, for some unknown reason. It is a hydro transmission. However, I don't know what model transmission it is?? I have noticed lately it was a little sluggish on the hills. I'm going to assume it is a tranny issue. How difficult is it to replace these units? Where can I get a manual/instructions to do so? I'm pretty handy and am willing to tackle the job. Where is the best place to get a replacement parts? I really want to fix this tractor. It has been great and I know there's a lot of life left in it. Can someone out there help steer me in the right direction? -
My intent here is to show lots of pictures so if anyone is rebuilding one of these or some of the others...you can do it without fear and I am adding some very helpful information. I had a post that lead up to this that has some information in it also, and while it overlaps, I wanted to do the rebuild separate. This post is meant to be used with the manual...the pictures help explain better then the pictures in the manual. Now I want to share what I learned as I rebuild this...I realize that some have done this, but this was my first time (transmission virgin) and I know I am not the last one to do this. If I can help or make this easier, then I have given back a little from all the help I have received from this site. Here are a few shots of what this looked like whee I opened the trans. Notice the 1/4" ball bearings on some of the gears. Those are from the #1533 bearings. This is a shot showing gear placement in the left side of the case. Notice the bevel of the reverse gear (front right). The left side is the shallow side of the transmission halves. These are the parts of the differential..the 2 casings on the outside, the 2 axles, the differential bull gear, the 4 posts and the pinions that go on these, and the bolts and nuts that hold it all together. I can't get enough looks at the gears before I tear it apart...next 2 pictures are for future reference. I found a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 sockets that made fair to good arbors for pounding out and tapping in most of the bearings and seals. These are the bearings and seals you need to do the R&R. You can get all the stuff from Toro or the site that Jason gave in the related post. One note...the Toro#1303 seal is discontinued. This is called a cup seal, because it has a cup shape. I replaced it with a kind of match (SKF #7410) same dimensions but more like a regular oil seal...it will work. This place used to be Berry Bearings in Elgin...now it is "Motion Industries"...the web site MotionMRO.com...they can match up any bearing or seal. Excellent info. and prices were very good. Shot of the bearings and seals removed, cleaned and sanded. Used Valspar Restoration series...I like the red match with my 702 and I like the hardness of the paint. Showing bearings and seals installed...notice (arbors on right). Putting differential back together...show axle in place with bolts in place. Added pinion posts and in 2nd picture...added pinions (alternating one up and one down). Added Bull Gear Added other axle and case and bolted together. At this point, make sure you can rotate the axles...they should rotate in opposite directions. Placing input shaft and gear (one piece) and the reverse idler shaft. Installed the 2nd & high shift rail and fork. (one on the left). Also installed both ball bearings, spring and stop pin, and low & reverse shift rail. The 2 sliding gears were then placed...the grooves face each other and the smaller gear goes on the bottom. I had a pencil magnet that I used to hold the 2nd ball bearing, while I took an Allen wrench through the hole to hold the bearing out of the way while I placed the low and reverse shift rail. the picture also shows the reverse idler and brake shaft in place. Another view showing forks and gears. Showing reverse idler (bevel up...I hope) in front. Splined shaft installed through the shift fork sliding gears. The cluster gear is then installed( 2 wood-ruff keys here...one on each end). Also, the differential and axles are placed (note the nuts are facing up). different angle yet one more angle Put together..old 5 gal wood create works great as a work bench (all shafts fit through and keep work level). Used a hard rubber hammer to tap halves together. No leaks when I filled with 90wt gear oil...approx 1 1/2 qts. Checked shifting and started to put the 702 back together today. A final picture or a video tomorrow (hope). I want to thank Rickv1957 Fan, MikeRJ, Buckrancher,Suburban550,IndyWH Smokin'Joe, the Helmett and Charlie for all their help and advice...a huge thank you guys.
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I have no understanding of what it is like to push one of these when the trans is disengaged and motion lever is in the forward position as the manual mentions. I hope this is not old ground and that I am not cross posting. With the trans disengaged and motion lever set forward there is still something spinning in and about the transaxle that is giving resistance. I need to know if this is normal or if I should be expecting more of a free wheeling experience. In effect, much less resistance. Thank you for comments or pointing me to a topic that already covers this.
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I have a late 80's 414-8. my transmission has a slow oil leak. it leaks slow so its hard to see where it is coming from. i get a small puddle/stain on the floor center under the trans after a few days of non-use. is there a usual problem area that leaks? or is there anyone in the NJ area that can be recommended to repair the trans? I am sure due to its age that gaskets or seals may be shot. the tractor sat for 10+ years at my office on a shelf. It has ran well the past 3 years for me. I would like to fix this leak if possible. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. THANK YOU, Frank
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A friend has a D-160 and it stopped moving. He said the engine coupling will spin but not the pump. I told him the pump splines were probably shot, but he is recovering from surgery and hasn't been able to check into it. Does anyone have a pump for sale with good splines and/or the coupling (female) spline? Thank you in advance.
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Hello all, need some help, as I can't find the answer, or maybe looked right past it. I have a 1257, 3 speed and found out outer bearing and seal are bad, now I know I could rebuild it I think, seen a lot post and videos, but my question is would a transmission out of a B80, which is a 6 speed which would actually make the tractor a 1267, but are they same size?? Would it be a direct replacement??? Thank you in advance for any help and advice you can recommend. Darren
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I am getting older and wiser, well older anyway! I had a transmission to change out and decided to use my head rather than my bad back. Made a little roll around dolly that made transmission removal and replacement a snap. Four casters, some short 2 X 4s and a bit of scrap plywood and I was in business.
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Very strong hydro on B100 automatic. Long story short, I fell off tractor, it ran against wall and keep working for several seconds before I was able shut it off. Now major hydro leak. Feedback on transmission prognosis and repairability please. Btw, I suffered skinned knee and jammed shoulder. Lol
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312 8 Tractor- Transmission Shifter Handle
HotRodMike posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Just picked up a 312 8 Tractor, Shifter handle is very loose and it won't go into none of the gears. Any ideas? Fixes? -
To Rebuild or Not to Rebuild...That is the Question
RJ Hamner posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Just started a ground up restore on a 1968 Raider 12. Step ! was going to be the transmission. Made a cradle/work table and armed myself with all the required manuals. I just split the case this afternoon and was amazed at what I found. I had rebuilt the transmission on my 60 Suburban and had sludge chipped teeth and a broken casting. I found none of that. The guy I bought it from told me that 3 of them had used the Raider to mow a small cemetery until they got too old and or hired a contractor to do it. They either took extremely good care of it or this is a replacement or was rebuilt a while back. The pictures are "as opened". the only thing I have done was wipe the excess oil out of the one case half. Cast you well trained eyes (I don't consider myself anywhere near an expert on transmissions) ((wife says I am barely housebroke)) I would appreciate your opinions on wither or not I need to do a complete rebuild. As a side note: All the ball and needle bearings are clean and rotate freely; Thanks Bob -
Was someone making reproductions of the sliding cam (5996) on the early automatic tractors...specifically the 875? Thanks for the help. Ken
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Having problems with my 875 won't budge
Mitchell Whitehead posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Just recently bought an 875 got it running and first day it drove very weakly and the next day i went and started it and it wouldnt budge. Pulleys are all tight, no idea whats wrong -
Hi folks, I'm new here, but I've been scouring this site and others for information on a 212-6 that I recently acquired. I managed to find and replace front axle for it. Otherwise, it seems to be in really good shape. One issue is that it doesn't seem to brake effectively. It goes just fine, but it doesn't stop well. (Found this out the hard way.) Finding information on how to adjust the brakes hasn't been easy. I did find the following site that has a neat little description on page 21 (page 25 in the PDF), but the pictures are pretty grainy, and my attempts to follow the directions haven't worked out so far. http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/Tractor_1986_200-300-400_OM_810399R1.pdf I've attached a picture with a pointer to the adjusting nut. Turning it several turns to the left, however, doesn't seem to allow the wheel to turn freely as described in the manual. And, it seems like to get more braking power, I would want to turn the nut to the right anyway. Anyone have any experience adjusting the brakes on a 212? Your help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ron
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I liked, but didn’t find an applicable thread, so I made a new post. We got a 69 Charger 10 last Friday. The brakes don’t really stop it, kinda slows it to an idle speed. Still too fast for the brakes to be engaged. FIL did some reading and it’s apparently the gears that stop the tractor, so now we’re looking at servicing and possible actually doing work on the trans. That’s fine, not a problem, figured we’d get into this eventually, so with the one known issue at hand, how would/have you gone about tackling this trans? Trying to get voices of experience that might be able to save us a headache or two lol. TIA!
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I have what I believe is a Wheelhorse transmission from a 1964 -1966. Is this worth selling via shipping? I'm not sure on the value or desire for these parts, as I don't know if it is worth it to post online or just sell local, as I imagine that the shipping cost will be quite high because of its weight. What do you all think?
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Greetings everyone- After draining the old molasses out of my transmission, quickly flushing with diesel and refilling with 85-W140 my left rear axle and input shaft seal drip a little each day. Thanks to this forum I found the seals I need at Napa, but am a little nervous pulling off the input shaft pulley without damaging the pulley itself. Any advice/write-ups on this? This photo is as I bought the tractor. Am I missing a bolt and washer? Thanks for the help guys!
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Trying to Identify my horse to get service manuals for all areas of it
JP56 posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I purchased what I was told by the seller, to be a "partially restored" 1975 C Series. I have it now for 3 seasons & have concluded that this restoration consisted of replacing a few bolts and repainting it and replacing some of the decals. The seller told me he "screwed up" on the Model Decals when he ordered them, & put the wrong one on it (C120), but did not tell me the correct one that should be on it, and he gave me a 1975 C Series Owners Manual with it. I am wondering if the Model Numbers correlate to the horsepower of the engines. If that is the case, I must have a C100, because mine has the Kohler 10 HP engine, which is labeled as a K241S. It has an 8 Speed Manual Transmission. After getting it home and using it, I put it in my shed & the next time I went to use it, I see the transmission/gearbox has leaked oil onto the shed floor, appears to be coming from the seam between the two halves of the rear-end. I also see a heavy black greasy film build up at both axle seals & also around the brake drum seal. I am now in doubt of the recommended oil for the rear end. Some of the online forums say that they had begun using transmission fluid as a replacement for older types of lubes, while others say 10-30 motor oil. I saw someplace which I can't seem to find again right now, that 85W-140 gear lube was what should be used. The oil level on the dipstick has not dropped to low levels, and appears to be motor oil, so after searching around and also checking the manual given to me with the tractor, I top off the level with 10W-30 as spec'd on page 5 of the manual(if this is indeed the right manual for my year and model). My problem now, is that last season, it suddenly seemed to get a bit sluggish & slow down as it gets warmer during use. I believe my sluggishness problem might be due to the leak in the box seam and possibly also the type of fluid/lube in the case of the transmission/gearbox. I had already tweaked the carb as best I could, changed the fuel filter, replaced the spark plug due to a hard starting condition and rough running, & it seems to be running fine right now except for a backfire when shutting it down. I have purchased a replacement carb for it that I have to put on now, & I am pretty sure I need to locate & change the points as well. Anyway I am hoping that someone can point me towards the right manuals, by placing all numbers I have been able to find on it here so I can hopefully find the right service/repair manuals (hopefully as free downloads someplace online) for the different systems. Tractor: Model: 103909 Serial Number: 47404 Engine: Model: K241S Specs: 46636D S/N: 6097616 Deck: 0542M505 All Numbers on Transmission/Gearbox Casting: A24 8163 or B163 ?(Cannot Read Clearly) 101761 or 1017G1 ?(Cannot Read Clearly) Any and all advice/info anyone can supply me with on this would be greatly appreciated! Also, any tips on good places to purchase reasonably priced parts would be good as well. -
Hello When we try to push the machine with out it running or in gear. The rear wheels are locking up. Is there a release valve? I have to push it from the storage area to the shop, the motor is rapping. Thank you
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New used fork from ebay shifter assembly with spring and bearings. Tomorrow I will upload a picture of a tool we made to reinstall the fork keeping spring and ball in place.
