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Showing results for tags '520'.
Found 34 results
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looking for a tiller for my 520h as well as some wheel weights. also maybe some good chrome hubcaps located in charlotte nc area
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So... I got cabin fever and against my best judgement, picked up from my brother a 520H Model # 4120OE02; Serial 1033076 (1991) that he got from a Friend who claim it ran but hasn't been used in years and was in dry storage. Included was a 48-inch triple blade mower in very good condition, total cost $250 ..... I figured that even if the tractor was no good the deck was worth the coinage....... and it had a good new battery....... So got it home fixed the one flat tire, replace the cooked fuse in the fuse holder. Cranked the engine over it cough a few times and then quit, was not getting fuel, replace the fuel line from the tank to the pump, pump not pumping, replace it with a B&S pump, cranked her over and she started right up ran and idled decent with no noticeable smoke. p.s. the hour meter is disconnected but you can tell she was run hard and put away wet but overall, in fair to good condition. So without doing anything else time for a test drive. It moved forward and backwards took her out into the yard got about 50 feet and the motor started laboring to me was like the transmission was putting a heavy load on engine, I tried to shift into neutral, but it wouldn't let me do that and then the engine bogs down and shuts off. Wait like 10 seconds start her up again and the issue repeats.... In all my years I have never had anything close to this issue hence my call for help. I did all the normal stuff trans fluid looks clean added some 10-40 weight to top her off, did not change the filter yet as I do not have one in stock. You can start the engine without engaging the transmission and it will run fine until the cows come home..... put it in gear forward or reverse and it will go an little ways and then the load condition occurs, the engine loads up and is dragged down into a stall. Appreciate all your advice as this one has me stumped......
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Hello All, New to the group and looking for advice. My father was a devoted wheel horse enthusiast for many years. He only cut grass with a wheel horse tractor (rear discharge deck) pulling a Parker lawn sweeper. We have a lot of property and it took him a while but he was retired and loved being on the wheel horse. When he got sick, I had to take over all the lawn maintenance. All of our family lives close on the same road. At the time, I was responsible for maintaining 7 properties plus my fulltime job. Using the wheel horse was not an option for me so I bought a commercial zero turn mower. Unfortunately, in 2017 my father passed away. I have all his tractors and it has been hard for me to think about what to do with them. He had 6 wheel horse tractors total. 3 tractors we used for cutting grass and 3 tractors are show pieces that have never cut a blade of grass. I have a few guys that have been asking me for years to sell them but I am not sure if I’m ready. I am turning to the group because I am lost at what I even have. Its my belief that the tractors are rare and the conditions are mint. If anyone would be willing to express their opinion and provide feedback I would be grateful. Wheel horse 420 LSE (shows 7.5 hr) Wheel horse 520 hydro (shows 92 hr) Wheel horse classic GT (shows 26 hr)
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I have a very recently restored 1989 wheel horse 520-HC tractor with 60” deck. Family owned for over 10 years but now it’s time for another project. Please contact me with any questions I have the original 60” deck but it was rough so I sourced the current deck off this site, it really is in excellent condition for not being restored.
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Nice solid clean 60" deck for 520H Model # C560SC04 $500 OBO
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Front axle upgrades and rebuilds
Sarge posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable . I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go.... If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe). This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type . The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing . Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ... Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside . Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable . The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm . The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol . No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width . My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now . The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes . Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol . So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs . Anyhow , more to follow.... Sarge Going forward- 33 replies
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Hello everyone! I am going to replace the ignition trigger on my grandfather's 520. Any tips, tricks or important things I should know before starting? I already have the parts. I just need to tear into it. I didn't know Cummins owned Onan.
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1995 520H, snow blower, 60" mowing deck
lodestonefarm posted a classfied in Wheel Horse Sold Archive
Selling my trusty WH520H. ~880 hours (currently used for moving snow when needed so hours may rise) very solid machine, strong and hardworking. 20HP Onan, hydro transmission and hydraulic lift. Has Matt's foot-pedal conversion for forward/reverse. Included in the sale is a tall-chute snow blower and 60" mowing deck. The blower is in excellent condition and is on the tractor currently. The mowing deck has been a workhorse over the years. No holes but could use some TLC, probably needs new spindles at some point and could use a couple spots touched up with welder also does NOT have any pulley covers/protectors (see photo). Tractor has been an incredible tool, very solid and dependable and I'm certainly going to miss her when she's gone. Recent maintenance: replaced the plugs this summer, fluids as needed (hydro has about 100 hours on fluid/filter; oil was done in the spring and has about 25 hours on it). Battery is about 3 years old as are the tires, Terra Trac tires on the rear and turfs on the front. The seat (with arm rests) isn't in great shape. I've got a cover for the seat, never used. It's never really bothered me but new seat cover is included in sale as are 4 hub caps, chains for the rear tires, and some misc spare parts (see photos). I've owed this machine about 8 year and put ~350 hours on her. She's not a show piece but could be restored. Sheet metal is generally in shape, no rust however the hood does have a couple dings in it. I'm only selling because I'm trying to help my son get a small lawn care business started and looking to move to a zero-turn. The 60" deck is too large for our trailer, the mowing deck lacks pulley safety shields, and we'd like something that mows faster. My only complaint with this machine is the top-speed (which isn't great when comparing to today's machines) otherwise she's a beast. They don't make them like this anymore. -
Where to Find Gold Plated Connectors for the Dreaded 9 Pin Connector
RJ Hamner posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Has anyone found a good source for gold plated (not the thin plated stuff) male/female connectors? And/or weather proof connector housings? I’m still not sure if this was under engineered, or they didn’t think the product would last this long (couldn’t envision the Wheel Horse Collector's Club) Asking for me and a friend -
Anyone have creative ideas / designs for building an economical generator for 520 tractor? I have always wanted one and contemplated building one a time or two before. I have only found a few used models over the last 20 years. Recently saw a new old stock unit on a tractor on Instagram. It was pretty awesome!
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Good evening, i just traded my way into a 520-8, and am looking for some info on its value. This is my first Wheelhorse- I had been looking for an older one in the style of a c161 hydro or d180 but ended up with this- has the 48” side discharge deck. I’m wondering if I’ve any chance of trading it for an older hydro with 48” mower and snowblower or if I should just bite the bullet and list it for sale... and for how much. Or if I could find a snowblower for this one. It runs and mows great, but is a little big for the 48” deck. Any info would be appreciated.
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Gentlemen, You have been very helpful in the past for answering my questions. I am looking at a used 520H that the serial # info was sanded off to paint the pan. This machine has a PTO to Mule Drive plastic cover, no hour meter, foot pads that are not the fine ribbed type but have the wide grooves with buttons holding them down. The lower control knobs are not round but bulb shaped black plastic. The 3 gauges say Toro on them. The top right gauge is a blank black plastic filler. The steering wheel is a three spoke, heavy on the bottom and the wheel is "fat". The mule drive does not have the heavy curved metal shield over the pulleys-possibly a casualty of replacement at one time. The hood is louvered like my 417.
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Good morning, I have been a long time reader, but a first time poster. I have a 1988 Wheel Horse 520HC Tractor. Does not charge, and I have to assume that it is due to the fuse at the front of the engine being blown. However if I replace the fuse that is located at the front of the engine, the wire at the voltage regulator will get hot, start to smoke as it melts the wires insulation. I have not started testing anything yet, as I just have stumbled upon this issue and was wondering if anyone else has had the same style of problem and what kind of repair did you have to perform. Thanks.
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Didn’t get to swap the loader out for the 44” 2-stage snowblower and cab on the 520-H before the Christmas Day storm. I had the engine out to redo the top end (decarbon, clean and reseat valves, New gaskets, New fuel pump, tubing, filter, plugs and properly seat camshaft Welch plug) so no time to switch over before storm. It’s just another excuse to use the loader! Merry Christmas everyone🌲🎅🏻
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hi I am a newbie to wheelhorse tractor,i bought a 1994,520,20 hp,wheelhorse tractor with mower and snowblower,a few days ago I back in garage to put cab,blower and tires and chains on it to prepare for winter.started it up on first turn, considering it was sitting at sellers house about 6 months, everything was fine , backed it up in garage ,worked on it a few days. When came time to leave the garage, started it up it would go only backwards, it would not go in neutral or forward. I put it back up on the jack, wheels turn free opposite sides front or back when stopped. Shifter stuck in reverse when stopped as well, how do I free it up and where is the shifter assembly located, please help thanks.
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P220G Stator Output Voltage OK? OEM or Aftermarket Voltage Regulator
r1jakecfd posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Hi Guys, I know my voltage regulator is bad on my Onan P220 and was wondering if anyone has an opinion on a replacement, OEM or aftermarket? Also, I checked my stator leads for AC Voltage and got about 25 volts at 3600 rpm on each. Is this OK? I know it says in the 40’s. Thanks guys -
I went out to use my 520H with blower this evening and it won't start. I used this machine a few days ago (for the first time this winter). The battery has been on a trickle charge so I don't think that's the problem. It's done this before where it won't start, won't start, and then starts. Usually that is in cold weather and after I've previously used it to blow snow. I don't have a heated garage so I think it might have some ice somewhere that was introduced as water the last time I blew snow. Here's what it's currently doing. When I turn the Ignition to 'On' the red warning lights and the dashs light all come on. When I turn the key to start position I get a single 'Click' and nothing more. I tried jumping it from a hot battery just to rule out a bad battery. Same behavior. Following some of the other threads about 520s with trouble starting, I pulled the blue wire off the starter solenoid. If I run a jumper wire from the (+) side of the battery directly to the solenoid I get the same behavior (regardless of key being in on or off position)- small spark where my jumper wire is touching the battery terminal and a single click. I'm unsure what this means about the solenoid and if that, in any way tests, the starter. Could it be that my starter is bad/frozen? I tried using a heat lamp to warm up that area, but in this weather (and my garage, which is really just a tarp shed) that just isn't going to work. I've downloaded the demystification guide and started looking at it but I'm hoping someone might have some suggestions. Snow is falling and I'm not making much headway on this. Thanks
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whats the differences to the 520 tractors? help questions!
98layinframe posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Hi, i have a couple questions if anyone would mind helping me out! I have a 414-8 (i think its an 87) that I would like to swap a few things on to make it work and look a little better to me. The first thing is the front axle... will a 520 swept front axle bolt right in? Is the center pivot bolt the same diameter? I know the outer knuckles are larger 1" on those machine but are they the same height? I figured I could just sleeve the knuckle to keep my stock 3/4" 414 spindles if so Also any info on this john deer 200 series swept front axle swap? anyone know if the pivot and knuckles are all the same diameters on that one? and how much wider is it? This one is actually looking to be an easier swap if the bushings are all the same size Also whats differences on the 520 frames? Are they longer or the exact same frame? Brace for the transmission mount? and mainly just the front axle? -
Hello, Anybody have a manual forsale or a download that matches my 1995 520H ?
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Hey guys, I have a thoroughly abused 520 that a buddy gave me. I've been slowly checking it out and making a list of things that need to be fixed. I just pulled the spark plugs and sprayed a little oil down the cylinders and spun the starter to check for compression (without a gauge). The front cylinder has great compression (almost sucked my finger in), the back one has almost nothing. Will I damage anything if I get it running with the bad cylinder to continue checking out what needs to be fixed? In other words would it OK to run a 520 with bad compression on a cylinder? I won't be working it or anything. Does anyone know how involved it is to replace the rings on the back piston? For those who may care, here is my list thus far: [ ] Check valve clearance [ ] Replace spark plugs [ ] Replace air filter [ ] Replace fuel filters [ ] Change oil [ ] Find air box cover [ ] Replace? Fuel pump [ ] Replace fuel lines [ ] Intake, exhaust and carb gaskets [ ] Clean carb [ ] Fix choke [ ] Replace burnt wires [ ] Replace fuel cutoff [ ] Fix compression in back cylinder [ ] Replace rear lights If there's anything else I should be checking out, please let me know. This is my first horse, my first riding mower, and my first project. So I don't exactly know what I'm doing. And like I said, this was abused. You'd never guess it has 300 something hours on it. Thanks so much.
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what spark plugs cross reference with Champion RH14YC for the Onan 20hp on a 520 ?
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Just of quick pic of my 520 getting ready to hill disc the garden.
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I'm looking for a muffler for a 1996 520H Toro Wheel Horse part # 116470. We have not been able to locate any. Thanks.
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Will an 6-6214 42" snow thrower fit my 520? I've been watching for a blower for this machine and most of what I can find, and afford, are these older models- single-stage, short-chute. From what I can tell this older model would fit the 1975 C-120 and C-160 but I have no idea if it will fit my much newer (1995) 520. Anyone know for sure if this fits, what if any mods it would need? Thanks in advance.
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My 520-H steering is somewhat "sloppy". When I was looking to see where the slop was I noticed that a bolt has been put into a hole through the fan gear & shaft and this is where most of the problem is. My question is....Is this supposed to have a roll pin or is it supposed to be welded.? Thanks!
