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Showing results for tags '416h'.
Found 15 results
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I picked up a low hour, (189.6) abandoned 416h yesterday. Does anyone know what size the o-ring is that seals the carb to the air cleaner? Mines cracked and I expected it to break in pieces when I remove it there by making it useless for sizing at the hardware store. Also, the voltage regulator is missing. Has anyone tried used a regulator from a Kawasaki as a replacement? I have a couple here and thought about trying them. Can anyone tell me if this engine has the governor spacer with the tab? Thanks.
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A really nice 1995 wheelhorse 416H runs and drives great no leaks only 920 hrs, motor runs strong, starts right up, brand new back tires 23x10.5x12, has slot hitch, comes with 42” RD deck and 42” snowplow, wheel weights and all 4 hubcaps, I’ll also throw in an extra set of tires, will need a seat but that’s it, pickup in millersville pa 17551, price is negotiable, will trade for an Economy Powerking tractor or John Deere 318
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416 Hydro Tractor For Sale - please see photos. Just over 700 hours on meter. Powerful Onan 16 Hp --- Has Automatic transmission and Hydraulic lift........New filters for tranny, engine, and fuel. New engine and trans oil. 2 new spark plugs. Only a few operating hours on near new Battery. Rear "Ag" Tires plus excellent tread front tires - Rims in excellent condition. Tin looks good. Front and rear lites work. New PTO safety switches. Also available For Sale is 48 inch re-conditioned mower deck for $425 - shell plus lift carriage assembly, all sand blasted clean to remove all rust, then two coats primer and two coats final top coat paint. Mower blades cleaned, sharpened and balanced. Rollers and wheels good condition. Also available For Sale: 48 inch plow unit - complete frame with necessary parts, springs, angle control lever, etc. Plus, like new re-conditoned blade had rust cleaned, then two coats primer and two final top red coats, newly welded reinforced iron bottom plate, plus rust cleaned and re-habbed painted wear edge blade with new carriage bolts @ $290. Also available For Sale: Rear Axle Bracket for plow, tiller, etc set up @ $65: All items cash pick up Hudson River Valley, Poughkeepsie NY area. Please Send private message to contact
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I'm new here, but I have years and miles of dealing with electrical issues with my 1997 416H, engine Onan P216G (I am the only owner) . Problem description: the start circuit turns the starter over fine, but no spark at the plugs or the coil sockets by spark tester. The ignition trigger tests good by connecting a test light to the coil positive and and the ignition trigger negative lead, plenty of light flash from the test light in unison with the engine turning over. So, I conclude the ignition trigger, replaced 3/18/2021 along with the coil is good. I have followed the "Demystification" wiring diagram in detail and there is 12V at the coil positive terminal, wiriing is solid (for now), all those damn safety switches, key switch, and relays work too. I conclude that the coil is bad since the primary side tests 3.1 OHM and the secondary tests infinite OHMS (1. displayed on multimeter). Two coils (Onan part# 166-0820) have NEW dates of 3/2021 and 8/2021, and yes both have the same test results mentioned. Infinite OHMs to me means the coil windings are broken. The most recent coil came from Onanparts.com and tested as mentioned above when it arrived. Onanparts won't take anything back! There are a lot of coils on ebay and various suppliers from China. Maybe good, maybe bad, who can tell? And most suppliers won't accept returned electrical parts. Please help: What are good test readings for a GOOD coil (primary and secondary). Who do you recommend as a reliable supplier for a new coil? Thanks for any help! Rollo416H
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Got the last 416 cleaned up but the Onan will take some time to go through. The acorn warehouse will get the full service treatment but for now I wanted to check out the hydro on it and the 520 as well. I know that the one 520 has no wiring harness and I will need to go through the 416 as well. What I needed was a self contained engine package that did not connect to the tractors fuel supply or electricals. I took a chance on a 13 horse Predator and so far I am happy with it. First pull and it fired right up. That is only the second time that happened and the last time was a Predator as well. I used a extra Onan mounting plate to attach the engine to and spaced the plate up 1 1/4" to give the same height as the Onan. It was 7" from the top of the frame rail to the crank centerline and the Pred was only 5 1/2". If you don't get the crank in the right postion the drive belt will run against it self at the tension pulley and fail. I had assumed that the Kohler on the the big ugly 520 was close to the same height and it was a full inch lower and the belt only lasted about 30 hours. I will need to diassemble the mounting sytem for paint and will try to get some pictures of the individual parts if anyone is interested.
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I finally got a dry sunny day so I got some pictures of the 13 horse mount details.The mounting plate photo shows frame holes denoted by the zinc bolts and the engine holes are the 4 cad colored smaller pattern.Think of the plate as a blank canvas.The centerline of crank needs to be in line with the pto hoop hole.The Onan and pulley was left on its plate so I could tell that the outer face of the pulley was centered on the hoop hole left to right. The hole pattern for engine mounting in the frame are not centered with each other left to right as can be seen in the 2nd picture.This is not important if the standoffs are individual but the tube had to be offset drilled.This is another good reason to use a spare Onan plate as it is already drilled to fit the frame.I swithed to custom made single standoffs for the front to make oil changes easier.If you don't want to use a Predator but rather a single cylinder Honda, Briggs ohv or other brand of single this approach will work for all with some minor variations.Hope this helps
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Hi, I have a cracked seat support on my tractor. Does anyone have pictures of how they have repaired or beefed up this area? I did see a thread regarding repairs but I am trying to figure out how to beef up this area without causing problems for myself when reinstalling the belt gard and other covers. Thanks. Bill
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Blowing snow.Need to readjust the wheels so its closer to the ground. DSCF1648.AVI
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Two years ago I sent my 1996 416H to the dealer I bought it from, to take care of an oil leak near the PTO. Though the engine had been running good otherwise, I also requested a compression check. The compression check suggested that the FRONT cylinder was a little weak and could use a new head gasket. (REAR cylinder compression was very good.) The work was done, no more oil leak, head-gasket replaced, and the engine sounded great. BUT, I immediately noticed that air flow blowing out the right side of the engine compartment, which would cool the rear cylinder, was only about a third of what it used to be. Air flow used to be quite strong. It didn't concern me at the time because the tractor ran fine plowing my 100 foot driveway after a dozen or so snowfalls last winter. Comes spring, I put the mower on and started cutting my grass. After about 45 minutes of mowing the engine loses power. Dealer picks it up again. REAR cylinder gets new head, gasket, valves, and seats. I tell the dealer and his tech person about the reduced air flow to the rear cylinder (and ask that they check for any obstructions, grass, leaves, or dead animals), but they say that's normal for this model tractor. I get the tractor back again, and it runs OK for several months. Again it goes back to the dealer because a valve seat came loose. It gets repaired "as good as possible" says the dealer. I mention the poor air flow to the rear cylinder before getting the tractor back, but he says can't find anything obstructing the air. Again, I got the tractor back, used it very little during this past summer because of a long dry spell that we had here in Connecticut. It ran OK with the minimal use it got. A few weeks ago I took it out to mulch some left over leaves in my yard (air temp about 65F that day). After about an hour of use, it loses power...rear cylinder again. (BTW, the rubber seal around the oil filter is where it's supposed to be.) Any helpful suggestions, ideas, or diagnosis would be much appreciated.
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Two years ago I sent my 1996 416H to the dealer I bought it from, to take care of an oil leak near the PTO. Though the engine had been running good otherwise, I also requested a compression check. The compression check suggested that the FRONT cylinder was a little weak and could use a new head gasket. (REAR cylinder compression was very good.) The work was done, no more oil leak, head-gasket replaced, and the engine sounded great. BUT, I immediately noticed that air flow blowing out the right side of the engine compartment, which would cool the rear cylinder, was only about a third of what it used to be. Air flow used to be quite strong. It didn't concern me at the time because the tractor ran fine plowing my 100 foot driveway after a dozen or so snowfalls last winter. Comes spring, I put the mower on and started cutting my grass. After about 45 minutes of mowing the engine loses power. Dealer picks it up again. REAR cylinder gets new head, gasket, valves, and seats. I tell the dealer and his tech person about the reduced air flow to the rear cylinder (and ask that they check for any obstructions, grass, leaves, or dead animals), but they say that's normal for this model tractor. I get the tractor back again, and it runs OK for several months. Again it goes back to the dealer because a valve seat came loose. It gets repaired "as good as possible" says the dealer. I mention the poor air flow to the rear cylinder before getting the tractor back, but he says can't find anything obstructing the air. Again, I got the tractor back, used it very little during this past summer because of a long dry spell that we had here in Connecticut. It ran OK with the minimal use it got. A few weeks ago I took it out to mulch some left over leaves in my yard (air temp about 65F that day). After about an hour of use, it loses power...rear cylinder again. (BTW, the rubber seal around the oil filter is where it's supposed to be.) Any helpful suggestions, ideas, or diagnosis would be much appreciated.
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Hey guys, Just curious for your opinion.I now have two blowers,a short chute 4200 series and a tall chute that has been converted from a vertical shaft configuration.What performance differences (wet vs dry snow) can I expect from the chute designs.Both will get used if we get the occasional foot of snow but I'd like to know what the members here think.As always I value your opinions and thank you in advance.Luck,JAinVA
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So a lil back story: I mow 1x per week and it takes me 2.5hrs with a 20" push mower... I've never had to purchase a mower @35yrs old, I've always had readily available hand-me-downs & freebies. So I set my parameters 2wks ago @ $800 & 1.5hr drive radius. Well I started looking at green (b/c we have a JD 5525), even some yellow (b/c we have an IH Hydro100 + others), and even looked at the cheaper stuff. While I was looking, I kept coming across these "WheelHorses" and so I had to investigate (basically because I like the look) & didn't understand 'them' and the $ they were commanding. That brought me here. Where I started reading, searching, looking up info, reading about problems, seeing which were 'desired' models, and finding out when did 'they' start using plastic, aluminum and recycled Styrofoam peanuts for parts. Then there was the price point when I decided what I wanted & oh yeah, $800 is kinda short lol. Oh, there's 25 green 2007 model mowers ready to bring to the house... Today I am the proud new owner of a 416h... Even has the original BOS attached to the owners manual. Unfortunately tho, it was closer to the farm than the city (day job) so I had sent my dad & brother to check it out & authorized them to spend my $ so long as it wasn't blowing smoke, slapping heads, spitting oil, etc... there's a bad "idler bearing" which didn't spoil the deal (but I will have to fix & have searched here for that thank you WHF/RedSquare already). Most of us here, we need our tractors to WORK. Me, if I wanted and had the time for show ponies, I would have kept a 70 Olds, or refurbish an AC D17 we have collecting dust. No, life is no parade but a long grind... now is my 2hr mow gonna kill this thing, I seriously hope not lol. But that doesn't mean I can't get this Mare to put out a little more - hehehe... She does require maintenance. She does need heads cleaned & valves adjusted apparently. She needs cleaned/detailed... and these are things I can get my oldest son Ben involved in as I want to have more father-son time... (might upset my lil girl but she'll take/get hers if she wants it later). So I'm planning to put this little horse to work in more ways than she had planned. Yeah, there is more to my motivation here as well... I'm a divorced father (accountant & weekend farmer) of 3 with a new family & an old one I still have to support and there's no reason this can't be fun... So check back in, & I'll keep pics coming. But be patient, as I'm writing this tonight I still haven't seen it much less heard her run... But the DERBY is Saturday, this is KY, and pappa's got a brand new toy! Since I know you want to know - this 416h got listed this morning for $500 & 1hr away... she never had a chance
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Well today is the day I started the restoration of my 416H. All sheet metal is off as is then wiring harness. I had removed the engine last week to de-carbon it and set the valves. Wire harness came out easily Tried to get the steering wheel off. Not have much luck with this. Will go to Harbor Freight tomorrow and get a larger puller. This one fits a little tight. The roll pin did come out easy for a change. I hope I don't have to cut the steering wheel off like I did once before. This wheel is in great shape. Took it outside for a power wash. Will do it again after I get the rest apart.
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Needed some room in my shop so I sold my 1982 Suzuki and a Toro Bronco yesterday. Looked around and saw I had too much empty space so I started doing the Craig's list thing again. Scored another Wheel Horse 416H in really nice condition from the original owner. Been garage kept it's whole life. $400.00 and no holes in the deck but needs a battery. That's three Wheel Horse 417 tractors in two months. 2H's and an 8 speed. Will have photos tomorrow. I don't think my wife understands me.
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Sitting in my garage on Sunday, when a neighbor stops by. He hesitates for bit and then asks if I want another old tractor. Being careful I say maybe depending on what it is. He tells me it is a Toro. I am thinking it might be one of the newer models and I am not sure I will be interested but decide to take a look anyway. He drives his truck around back and I discover it is a 416H, with a very good deck and plow. Not wanting to seem to joyous, I carefully ask what he wants for it. He tells me I can have it that he was going to take it to the dump. This guy has become my favorite neighbor!!!!!!!!
