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Showing results for tags '416-8'.
Found 37 results
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Afternoon gentlemen friend of mine's father passed after a long illness, and he is now the owner of his Wheel Horse 416-8 with the Onan P216. He wants to sell it to me as he has other tractors. I never owned and Onan Machine what advice can you give me. It has been in storage for 5 years and of course according to him "ran when parked" Has 365 hours on it. Thanks in advance going to look at it this Wednesday.
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Inexpensive - Carlisle X Trac ATV Bias Tire - 16x6.50-8 Good quality (I expect) Should look nice with my large rear aggies I don't know how much these have been discounted, but I expect anything you find like this from a good brand will be 2X to 3X the price. $45 each at Amazon. This tire is discontinued. Rough measurement seems they are about 16" tall and the lugs are about 1/2" deep.
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416-8 with Onan P216 Engine The good: *576 hours *Nice, clean deck (42”) *Nice Plow *Wheel Weights *Chains *2nd owner. 1st owner sold the house in 2020 and said he was getting too old so he included it with the house. *Original receipts and paperwork and manuals. *Receipt showing tune-up and changing from the deck to the plow in November 2021 The bad: *The last time it was used was the winter of ‘21/‘22. It is currently set up with the plow. *Had trouble starting, when it started, it died after 4-5 seconds. He had a portable charger and it helped. We got it running, but when I turned it down to idle, it died. *I didn’t get a chance to test drive it because of this. *One front tire goes flat fast, one rear tire has a slow leak. *He is going to buy a battery before I look at it again on Friday so I can test drive it. What do you think is the issue? Is it the battery or fuel system? Do you have a way to verify what year this is with the ID number and serial number? Also, the ID number of the deck. I’ll upload pictures of the stickers. *He says his driveway has an incline so snow and ice would pool around his door opening so he got tired of his wheels spinning. He decided to pay for plow service. (Home is big and nice with a lot of land.) He also decided to get a zero-turn mower so that’s why this 416-8 wasn’t used since after winter ‘21/‘22. He’s asking $500.
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Hey everyone. New here. Just picked up a nice 92, 416-8 wheel horse. I'm having trouble finding a plow/ dozer blade for it. This is the info I found through research of my model. The problem is, cant find anyone selling this online. Is there different models that will fit that I am missing? Model #: 06-48BC03 48" Snow/Dozer Blade
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Would someone be able to measure the length of or even take a picture of the last couple inches of 416-8 uni-drive transmission dipstick? I jacked and drained tranny, just a little more than 3 qts, flushed with diesel, and serviced with 2 qts of Lucas 80W-90. Nothing on the stick. The stick ends right after the PN 106447, may be broken off perfectly smooth, and has always been that way since I bought 5-6 years ago. I noticed it but didn't think much about it due to an inch of fluid being on the stick when you checked the level, the extra 1+ qt of oil. Assumed the top of PN on stick must be full line. The oil I drained looked fine, just a little fine metal flake from the oops's over the years from accidental grind and go's (or remains of the missing dipstick?). No appearance of water contamination. I changed the fluid due to a low whine I can't say I noticed over the years or at least it sounds a little louder if was present before. No change in whine after oil change either. Just over 450hrs on it so maybe just "broken-in" whine? Bought with 225 hrs on it from a local old timer Cub Cadet restorer who had changed all the fluids before selling it for a friend. Just to note, the whine has a bit of a hydro tranny noise to it. The higher the range, gear, and speed the louder it is, no whine in neutral. Not too concerned about the whine, just have nothing to compare to. The other 416 is an H to push around the two-stage blower, which I bought together this March. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the hydro compared to the -8 though. Love the -8, hydro is a bit sketchy to operate and drinks gas. May need to buy the pedal control kit I see posted here. Thanks up front for any help guys. Maybe my first post but you all have already helped me quite a bit with your experience and knowledge reading the old posts over the years. Great site.
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Sold 416-8 8 speed wheel horse, rear discharge mower & snow blower
Boyd posted a classfied in Wheel Horse Sold Archive
wheel horse garden tractor mower, rear discharge mowing deck & snow blower both in good condition and runs well. all the parts for the snow blower are with it.- 1 comment
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- 416-8
- 8 speed transmission
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Will the PTO work from the 312 Hydro with a 12 hp Kohler onto the 416-8 Onan? My PTO disc went today. Any help would be most appreciated.
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This Was Going to Be My Winter Project....But...
RJ Hamner posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Had finished the Raider 12 and there was the lift, sitting there EMPTY.......... This is my $400 "barn find". It's a 94 416-8 with a little over 1100 hours. It had been sitting for about 4 years after the PO bought a zero turn. The guy I work for part time told me his uncle had a Wheel Horse in his shed and he might want to get rid of it. He sent me some pictures. It really looked like a brown lump. But he did clean off the ID tag. The shed turned out to be more of a "run in" with a dirt floor (and it didn't face east) Took the power washer to it and YEP There was a Wheel Horse underneath. New battery, fuel lines,spark plugs and an air filter and it ran like a champ. Even mowed the front yard with it. Couldn't stand looking at the empty life so.......Let the fun Begin!- 57 replies
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This problem has been driving me a little nuts (well maybe a LOT nuts) The idler arm is coming too far forward and overriding the the safety switch and when it does this it wont allow the arm to return. I have tried varying the length of the rod from the pedal to the arm on the shaft (tried every position from all out to all in) I even checked the set up on the other 416-8 (rolling parts locker) and set it up exactly like it but it still overrides the switch. Picture !: Switch without clutch pedal depressed Picture 2: Switch after clutch pedal has been depressed (note arm cannot return as it is blocked by the switch) Picture 3: Clutch rod where it is attached to the arm. What am I doing wrong???? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated
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Hi All, I am installing a new key switch and redoing some of the wiring that is there (PO redid wiring and removed most if not all the safety switches and they are nowhere to be found). Both the old switch and the new one have 6 connections. I can trace all the wiring and will rewire and put in new fuse holders. However, on the old switch had the G connection was just tied back in to the B connection. My questions is when installing the new switch; where should I connect the G connection to? Thanks!
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Hi All, I bought Kohler rebuild kit # 25 757 11-S. I had a couple of questions as there are extra parts than this Walbro WHG takes (two float needles and gaskets not used on this carb). It came with two intake valves (one with a spring). I used the one without spring that looked like the one I took out. However the float pin was not in the kit, just the needle. Is this what others have found? Also, there was the thick gasket to go against the block and a regular thinner one of the same size. I used them both as the diagram showed both (thick one against block and thinner one between thick one and carb). Is this correct? The manual I downloaded for the M16 shows a Kohler carb and initial setting for both fuel needles at 2 1/2 turns out. Is that the same for this Walbro? Also I cleaned everything I could without removing the Welch plugs. I am asking as it is running much worse than before I cleaned it!! Total surprise as I have rebuilt several other carbs in the past and never had that happen. I am hoping that the new float needle is stuck and/or the thin wire I used on the main jet was short and did not get everything? It was dirty and needed a good cleaning so surprised at the poor performance once cleaned. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Hello, I have an 1987 416-8 with a Kohler Magnum M16. The M16 has a Walbro carb. The engine decal with specs, etc., is there but the writing is totally gone. This is the WH I have been fixing up and have it running (and mowing) pretty good. However after 30 to 45 minutes it begins to run a bit rough and sounds like it want to quite. Shutting down the mower seemed to help and I got it back to the shed before it got any worse Thinking the carb could use a cleaning..Are there rebuild kits available for the carb? Also, could other issues cause this? Thanks!
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Well about a week or so ago found this one Facebook Market Place. It is a1994 416-8 come with the deck. The hood says 312-8 but the P.O. stayed it is better looking one that was on it. It does smoke a bit on startup, but oil needs changed, dirty needs a bath, needs a few odds and ends but overall not to bad. Deck had a belt missing so only center blade was turning. The hour meter (IF accurate has 446.8 on it) all the dash lights work. Looks to have original rear tires.
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I am finishing up fixing up the beat up 1987 416-8 that I picked up a while ago. While I am waiting for a new gas tank bushing and shut off I am installing a new ignition switch and run new wires. All the wiring has been reworked by PO and the safety switches have been removed or bypassed as has the indicator light circuit board. I'll leave it like it is (this will be a work tractor) just replace the current wiring ignition switch and light switch. My question is; what is the recommend gauge wire to use? The PO was "creative" in working on this rig and I want to make sure I replace the beat up wiring with the proper gauge. Thanks!
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I am working on a 1987 416-8 that I picked up a couple of years ago. I bought it from the widow of the PO. It was obvious that it had been stored outside in the past and PO had repainted etc., but this machine had seen some use for sure! Motor sounds good and the tranny does not make noise so I am fixing it up a bit for a worker at my camp. I am working on the manual lift linkage now and need some advice on how far I can or should take this. The spring in the handle was frozen when I got the machine but I got it lubed up and working again. However, it's a bit lazy on the uptake. Also, there is some play on the handle side of the lift. With the weak spring and sloppy bushing on the same side the lift will not lock in place once lifted. You can get it to catch but if wiggled a bit it simply drops. PO told me they just left it down. I cannot get the handle of the shaft. I drove the pin out and am soaking it now in hope some heat will help after a day or two. I did get the push lever out and picked up a new spring. I would really like to replace the bushing on the handle side if possible. The sheet metal does not look out of round and neither does the bushing but you can see that the bushing is slightly smaller than the hole in the metal so it has play on that side. Neither the metal or bushing looks uneven from wear. The bushing on the right side is pressed in the sheet metal pretty well and is still tight on the shaft. If I cannot get the handle off the shaft without damage to the sheet metal I was thinking of trying to work in a shim around the bushing to take up the slack. Has anyone had this issue? Any ideas? Thanks!
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Hey Everyone New to the forum and to wheel horses. Just picked up a '94 416-8. Saw a guy local to me that mod'd a 79970 cab to fit his 312H willing to let it go for 175.00. My question(s) here are: Is there much difference between the 3 and 4 series (I assume mostly motor size is the main variable) Looking at the general specifications it seems this was built for the 200 series but with the pictures below, I wonder how big of a headache I'm going to get myself into. I appreciate your help and insight. Regards Joe https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/481888615841836/
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Quick story and a couple of questions concerning replacing the ignition coil on my '89 416-8 with Onan P216 engine. So I got this old tractor from my Dad when he replaced it and it was running okay until a few weeks ago. Was picking up sticks and hauling them out to the wood pile when I idled down the tractor and then it stalled out (which happens all the time.) I tried starting again and it would not turn over. The starter would go and go but no ignition. I spent a lot of time on these forums and found some really good info including the service manual. I used that diagnose the problem and figured out the coil was bad. I ordered a new off brand coil and condenser from Amazon for $40 swapped them in last night and it fired almost immediately. Plus since I had taken the shroud off and disconnected the throttle cable it was idling well at very low throttle. I've still got to reassemble everything properly but it seems like the coil was the culprit. That said I've got a couple questions. 1. Anybody have any luck with non-Onan coils?The one I got from Amazon seems well made but it is literally some no name part. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot. 2. Does it matter which spark plug attaches to which plug on the coil? I forgot to take a photo before I disassembled. 3. Could a failing coil cause very hard starts and stalling at low idle? I'm asking because as I said above the tractor has been very hard to start for years. Almost always needed to choke it. It would also stall out if you idled down nearly every time. Just the brief testing with the new coil that I've done, both of these issues seem much better. Also I used my Dad's replacement (early '90s 416-h with same engine) for this tractor while working on mine and it started and idled very easily. It looks like it might have a replacement coil as well. Just wondering. Thanks all.
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Anyone found a fix for this too short dipstick?
RJ Hamner posted a topic in Transmissions and transaxles
I am in the process of rebuilding/restoring a 1994 416-8. The transmission has a tube/dipstick combo that the user is supposed to use to check the fluid level. The problem is the dipstick sets right on the top of the tranny and the hole in the seat pan is about 4 inches above it. So, unless you have REALLY skinny and long fingers you can reach it without using the square hole in the center of the seat pan. (which is really a PITA if you have arthritis) I know they make a longer tube and dipstick combo because I have seen the top of the dipstick sticking out of the hole on some models Anyone else had the problem and can recommend a "workaround"??? Thanks Bob -
I always hear about the "Other Guy" getting a great BARN FIND. Well today was MY lucky day A guy I work with sent me a picture of a Wheel Horse that was in his uncles barn. It was really hard to tell what it was other than a tractor. The picture was totally BROWN from the years of dirt. He did uncover the ID Tag.....It is a 1994 416-8 He wanted to know if I would be interested? Right!!!! Got it home, sprayed it with cleaner then turned on the water (it was RED underneath the brown) A new battery, a new fuel line and filter. Filled it with gas and checked the oil And then..........Mowed the front yard $400 so what do ya think??
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I'm thinking about going with 7.50 tires on the front with the 8" stock rims. I mow in a wet area and am thinking if I increase the surface area, I'll be less likely to sink. I already went wider in the rear, which seems to work well. I'm also running lower pressures all around. My main concern is if the slightly wider tires will clear the mower deck when I make tight turns. As it is, the 6.50 clears only by about an inch. I'd like to go with the 7.50 Carlisle Turf Masters, the mounted width is 7". Currently I am running the stock tires, which are Turf Savers, and according to Carlisle, the mounted width is 6.6". I guess if that's the case, it may not make much difference in surface area, and I would be risking rubbing the tires on the deck. I have a 42" deck. If anyone is using (or knows for sure if) 7.50 Turf Masters on an 8" wheel with a 42" deck on a 416-8, please let me know how well it works. Obviously I can't risk "tire rub". I also welcome any other suggestions for mowing wet ground. Thanks in advance. -
Hello all, I am a new private in the army and have just been assigned to fix an old 416-8. Within the past year the v-belt snapped and it has not been touched since just sitting in the garage. I have looked online and a quick search has shown 0 manuals that have the v belt as shown. Are there are manuals or videos out there that can help me with this v-belt replacement and potentially more repairs once I get into it more? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. PVT Jack Tanner
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So I got this a few years ago and figured it was time to freshen her up a bit. Not perfect but a lot better then when I started. I decided to do a black frame and underside.
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The 416-8 I picked up a few months ago takes the larger diameter wheel bearings in the front wheels. The parts list show two bearing options depending on the rims you have. Mine unfortunately take the 107124 bearing that I can only find as new/old stock for $55.00+ each or $230 for 4 with shipping. Has anyone found other bearings that can be used in these rims? Thanks!
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This is the tractor~1989 416-8 I grew up with so I want to get her back up and running. I am not getting any juice, nothing lights on the dash and the voltage meter on dash. The battery is fully charged, I changed the fuses and relay, the ground cable is clean. I know last time someone tried to start they cranked for a long time and likely burned something out.... any ideas?
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I'm working on the 416-8 I picked up a few weeks ago. I need to replace the front tires so went to pull the rims. One rim came right off as it should but the other will not budge. I have removed the grease fitting and been filling it with WD40 for several days. I have WD40 coming out through the bearing pretty well now. I found a piece of tubing that fit over the axle perfectly and with a piece of wood over it pounded on it a bit hoping to break it loose but it just doesn't budge. The wheel that is frozen to the axle does hold air. My next thought was to repair the other tire and just put the cotter pin to give some room on the frozen one and drive it around a bit in hopes that it will free itself once warmed up some with to pressure of turning, etc. Any ideas on getting this thing off?? Thanks!!
