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Showing results for tags '416'.
Found 16 results
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94' Toro Wheelhorse 416-H Mild Resto/Clean
Blue Delta posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Hello Everyone, First off I would like to say this is a great forum, heaps of information, helpful people and respect for machinery! This is the story of my Horse, it was traded in at work on a new machine (not sure what the customer bought but in my opinion they got the raw end of the deal), I was immediately interested in it as I have seen a lot of lawn tractors but nothing like this before, it was in a sad and sorry state it did not run but the panels were all straight and was complete. I got it home and replaced the battery and checked over the engine, it cranked and started once primed, the sound of the Onan roaring to life is amazing. I have done some cleaning on it, polishing the hubcaps makes it stand out, they are not perfect but look good still! My intent is to give it a good clean, fix anything that is on the way out or missing. I am currently tossing up having to repaint some areas around the pump and bonnet, I know since it is after 1990 'Toro Red' is the preferred colour over Rust-Oleum Regal Red, what is everyones thoughts? And here is some pics! Love at first sight! After its clean (looking good) Getting down and dirty (Probably the heaviest engine i have had to move) Yummy, frequent cleaning would have prevented this (and a air blower would help) After its clean! Will keep you all posted!- 28 replies
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Where to Find Gold Plated Connectors for the Dreaded 9 Pin Connector
RJ Hamner posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Has anyone found a good source for gold plated (not the thin plated stuff) male/female connectors? And/or weather proof connector housings? I’m still not sure if this was under engineered, or they didn’t think the product would last this long (couldn’t envision the Wheel Horse Collector's Club) Asking for me and a friend -
Started the day prepping the garden to plant potatoes.The 416-8 and middle buster got 125' of rows opened up.Next item on the list was to paint the engine and tins on the 312a loader tractor.Take the crane tractor and spot oak rounds at the splitter. Once split load the cart behind the 416h and bring wood up to the house for stacking.Load saws and go back to the downed tree to bring more rounds to the splitter.Rinse and repeat.I'm a little tired but greatful for the seat time.These little guys earned their keep today.
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Wheel Horse 416 with a repowered Briggs and stratton 23 hp vanguard crank no start
mikekot3 posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
My 416-8 tractor I have repowered with a small engine warehouse Briggs and Stratton 23hp vanguard engine two years ago. This week the tractor ran fine and I cut most of the grass until it rained out. I thought I would finish the lawn the next day but I will not run correctly. The tractor will crank but will not start. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter already to no avail. I removed the spark plug and used starting fluid in the cylinder but It did not help any. When cranking the engine is the clear fuel filter housing supposed to fill up most of the way? It seems to be only filled about 1/4 of the way. I found a bad terminal in the engine to chassis 9 pin molex connector for the starter which I bypassed until I get a terminal remover tool. I bought a new molex connector body and terminals for this type of repair a few years ago. Another weird thing is when it did start and run in the past the switch is turned to start I have to turn on the head light switch for it crank over. Once it started I would turn off the head light switch to disengage the starter. The switch and head light trick has been working for two years. I am presuming I put the wrong terminal in the wrong spot in the 9 way connector 2 years ago but I worked fine other wise for two years. Is there any other trouble spots I need to test on the tractor? I have a fluke dvom for testing purposes if needed. Thank you in advance. -
BeOk first off I have a older 80 400 series . Was my father's and I am attached to the old lady.. it Was running ok.. This year after a year outside it just will not start. I am Not a mechanic so working blind. I have the seat switch bypassed, also the PTO saftey switch. Replaced a lot of little parts,.Don't know if there is something else . so.. history aside.. cranks no start.. using a test light.love my test light.. fixed a lot on some older engines with this.. anyway. Test light not meter. I get power to the points. Power. To the + end of the coil.. a flashing on the neg side of the coil when cranking.. I do get power after cranking on the neg end of the coil.. the two posts not where the spark plugs wires come out.. I do see A white spark seen and heard at the points when cranking and if I pull the points apart when not cranking .. using test light or inline spark plugs test nothing. have not done the pull plug and ground to see.. but using test light I put in on the cable no light.. no light on the coil tower either.. I replaced the coil, condensor and points like 8 years ago I think.. it was hard to start and I was using the manual.. So no spark if power to the coil but nothing out equals bad coil right?? Well the local shops quote for 280 for a coil was a shock. . but looked online hard to find but a little less.. Cannot rember what I spent before.. So worth buying a coil and if so may as well replace points and condensor at same time?? Am I missing something?? Got power going into this and nothing out as I can see.. but heck what to I know..
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Hello folks, Some weeks ago I posted about hammered paints that I was trying out on my vise.I was more interested in reactions to the paint but it kinda went sideways so lets see where this goes. I have had more than one 16.50 x 8 inch wheel that had been beat enough that the bearings would not stay in place.I have a way to swage the hub so that the bearings will take a press fit but that to me is a bandaid for the real issue.I feel that the hub should have been made of thicker material to take the gaff.Other makes use a 1" axle,bigger bearings and thicker hub metal and I am going to upgrade the WHs to this stronger hub style.Is this an issue for the users here?JAinVA
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She throws it pretty far! I'm trying to decide what I like more. Pushing or throwing. Throwing is cleaner for sure, pushing seems faster. I need to re assess with a foot or more of snow. I really like this setup, the only thing I don't like is the heavy steering. Seems like I'm going to break the steering gearbox! https://goo.gl/photos/FZW5sqHG8Uru1ja76
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Question is, Is the rear fender also mounted on springs or rubber somehow? I know the seat has springs but the whole rear fender assembly on mine wiggles as if its sprung also. I haven't had the time to tear into it to look further and figured someone here would know!
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So a lil back story: I mow 1x per week and it takes me 2.5hrs with a 20" push mower... I've never had to purchase a mower @35yrs old, I've always had readily available hand-me-downs & freebies. So I set my parameters 2wks ago @ $800 & 1.5hr drive radius. Well I started looking at green (b/c we have a JD 5525), even some yellow (b/c we have an IH Hydro100 + others), and even looked at the cheaper stuff. While I was looking, I kept coming across these "WheelHorses" and so I had to investigate (basically because I like the look) & didn't understand 'them' and the $ they were commanding. That brought me here. Where I started reading, searching, looking up info, reading about problems, seeing which were 'desired' models, and finding out when did 'they' start using plastic, aluminum and recycled Styrofoam peanuts for parts. Then there was the price point when I decided what I wanted & oh yeah, $800 is kinda short lol. Oh, there's 25 green 2007 model mowers ready to bring to the house... Today I am the proud new owner of a 416h... Even has the original BOS attached to the owners manual. Unfortunately tho, it was closer to the farm than the city (day job) so I had sent my dad & brother to check it out & authorized them to spend my $ so long as it wasn't blowing smoke, slapping heads, spitting oil, etc... there's a bad "idler bearing" which didn't spoil the deal (but I will have to fix & have searched here for that thank you WHF/RedSquare already). Most of us here, we need our tractors to WORK. Me, if I wanted and had the time for show ponies, I would have kept a 70 Olds, or refurbish an AC D17 we have collecting dust. No, life is no parade but a long grind... now is my 2hr mow gonna kill this thing, I seriously hope not lol. But that doesn't mean I can't get this Mare to put out a little more - hehehe... She does require maintenance. She does need heads cleaned & valves adjusted apparently. She needs cleaned/detailed... and these are things I can get my oldest son Ben involved in as I want to have more father-son time... (might upset my lil girl but she'll take/get hers if she wants it later). So I'm planning to put this little horse to work in more ways than she had planned. Yeah, there is more to my motivation here as well... I'm a divorced father (accountant & weekend farmer) of 3 with a new family & an old one I still have to support and there's no reason this can't be fun... So check back in, & I'll keep pics coming. But be patient, as I'm writing this tonight I still haven't seen it much less heard her run... But the DERBY is Saturday, this is KY, and pappa's got a brand new toy! Since I know you want to know - this 416h got listed this morning for $500 & 1hr away... she never had a chance
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Proud new owner of 1996 416. Was running but then I messed it up. The lever to the right (forward /reverse) was loose. So in a rush I turned the still connected battery over to get to the set screw instead of disconnecting the battery and it arced on the chassis. Leaving a small weld. I set the lever in position and then tried to start it but it wouldn't fire. So here are the symptoms. Starter spins but won't disengage. If I move a lever the starter will disengage. The tractor is really hard to push and therefore I think it's not in gear.. Brand new battery. Checked fuses. Haven't checked spark but feel like it's some safety switch possibly to do with the fact that it is not in neutral Please help. Want to get her running and have fun. Thanks in advance
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I have been working on this 416, voltmeter worked fine for a while, then was off. I mean it was at 12 when off, 14 when key was on, & all the way right when running. Then all the sudden it swept all the way around & is stuck at about 11 o clock position in upper LH corner. I have some issues with the idiot light circuit board. I have decided to let the next owner worry about that. The light work most the time, I mean it takes turns deciding which ones it want to come on lol. I have found that circuit board seems to control A LOT more than you think. Can anyone give me some insight on what may have caused the volt meter to do this? Its a 416-8 with Onan
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My 416 with the 16hp points ignition Kohler is giving me fits. It will initially start up and throttle up fine but not soon after pulling it out of the garage it gives me problems. It happens mainly when you go to engage the PTO or put a load on it, it starts running rough like and sounds like its knocking and begins to smoke. As soon as u disengage the PTO or idle the engine down it smooths out. Go to throttle it up and about half way it falls on its face acting like its about to lock up. I cleaned the carb, changed the points and set to .020, put a known working coil on it, change the plug, tried an electric fuel pump, took the hood off to try and make it run cooler. Idk what it is. I used it for about a 45 minutes the first time I mowed and it started doing this. I'm at a loss. Any help is appreciated!
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My stable minus my 800 special. The 416-8 leads the herd. -
My work horse tractor. The 416-8
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Just started looking for a wheelhorse, friend of mine has me turned onto them what do you all think of a 416 with 325 hours on it with blower chains and weights lowest the guy says he will go via e-mail is $600. Pics look really good. Let me know if I should show up with cash ($500) thanks Derek
