Search the Community
Showing results for tags '400'.
Found 27 results
-
The RJ58 was the big hit for spectators this year at my local festivals here in Carroll County OH. the children loved getting their pictures sitting on it, then they discovered the bicycle horn under the steering wheel. It’s always a joy even in parades. Just love showing off part of my collection every year and hearing all the stories from those that had WH in their lives at one time. Can hardly wait to get to retirement so I can get some of my other models back to their glory in working order and be able to attend other shows/festivals throughout the year. My fellow tractor enthusiasts always know when a spectacular starts asking about WH, they point in my direction. I study up on the history of the different models and always intrigue those that didn’t know much about how WH came to be. This website is one place that has helped me learn so much about the WH history and I thank you for sharing your knowledge that I am able to pass on to keep WH alive and well.
-
-
Well I got it on my buld table and started the tear down. Only thing getting in my way rite now is the roll pin in the steering wheel is locked and some one broke a punch off it the other side ! But my snap,on man says he can get me a bit to drill it out. This was a one owner and man it show it ! Everything is solid and not worn out like most you see. Also being in a shed for 30+ years helped. Can someone tell me how to find the year on this or if its a 400 or 550 . Here are some pics. I will keep you all posted if you like.
- 41 replies
-
- 11
-
well some previous identification led us to this possibly being a early 400 suburban due to the hood and its lack of pluged hole for the 550. but as I cleaned her up I found this number on the cast....coincidence or does it mean what it says?? not sure my brain is confusing me... one manual sais they used tranny 5010 my tranny doesn't say that... they made 400 401 502 and 550 but I don't find any tractors that are a 501??
-
Are new throttle and choke cables available for 1960 suburban? Last thing I need on this resto. Old ones are pretty rusty. Thank you.
- 11 replies
-
- 4
-
Stared to take apart the Clinton and found lots of corrosion & mouse stuff under the tins. Realized I was going to have to pull the whole engine apart to do this proper. Carb very crusty so carb kit on hand with a can of Berrymans & see how that goes. It appears to be white painted so do I paint it again? Any ideas on how to keep whats left of orginal paint through the cleaning/ blasting process? Or not worry about it?
-
From the album: cool photos
i just got it today and am excided to get it painted up and put on Jr. once done. not the correct one for jr. but its the best i could find. -
I have decided to upgrade the steering wheel on my 310-8.I purchased a two spoke 15" wheel.Like the steering wheels on my 520 and 416h the plastic rim is slick.Wearing gloves in the winter makes gripping the rim harder.Before I installed the wheel I sprayed a liberal coat of rustoleum bedliner on the rim.The color matches well and you don't know its been done until you grab the wheel.I am going to do this to all my other two spoke wheels.Cheap,easy to touch up and very effective.Luck,JAinVA
-
Hi everyone! Steve here. I am a newbee Wheel Horse owner. I buought what I believe to be a 1960 Wheel Horse 400 or 550 at an auction 2 weeks ago, It does not have an original engine (has a briggs 5hp). My plan is to restore it so it can be used by my 3 (soon to be 4) grandkids to cruize around our small farm. I found this site after looking around on the web and in a short time have realized there are good people here and great information. So...... Here I go on a the restoration. Getting the steering wheel off proved to be a fun first challange :*****: ! Here are some picsof our project!.
- 29 replies
-
- 10
-
I have a 401. The front rims are both different upon inspection. Both are 8 inch and same width. Both have the same offsets. Both are wheel horse rims and have the two holes for bolt on weights. But, one rim has the grease zerk and valve stem on the outside and the other rim has them both on the inside. (no you can't just flip one wheel around as the inner hub length is longer than the outer hub length.) The second difference is the shape of the "dish" or "bubble" in the center of the wheel. One has a more pronounced hump in the center of the rim. It is obvious that one of them is not correct to the tractor. From what I can tell, it looks like these early models had the zerk and valve stem on the outside. I obviously have rims from two different years or two different models. Where the front rims different from year to year? Anyone have knowledge of what rims were used in what years or what my odd rim might be from? Is there a way to ID these? Here is the "correct" one. I can't find a picture of the other one at this time though. The other one looks very close, just the zerk and tube are on the other side of the wheel and the bulge in the center is a different shape.
-
Well went to see Dennys502 in MN while on vacation last week and picked up this 400 he was giving away. Story has it this came from VA after the owner was injured on a WH (not this one) and he told Toro he didn't want it. Toro legal possibly had it shipped back to MN where Denny worked for Toro and legal asked him if he wanted it. He planned to do somewthing with it but since he is now retired and too busy...lol... He wanted another member to maybe have a crack at it so here we are. Still awfully nice for him to give it away and i promised that if I can't do anything with it I would pass it along to someone else here. We believe it to be an early 60's hence the Clinton motor and seat with out holes. More pictures of it and a different thread once I get going on it.
-
I need some help identifying this WH. I'm working on learning the details to look for, so here's what I see! The hood stand is solid. The front axle is swept across the width and swept back. The lines on the top of the hood seem to fade out and not go all the way back it has a solid seat pan. The extra frame space in front of the hood looks too long? so would that make it a 1960 Suburban 400 or 401, or could it be an RJ? it's in poor shape, but maybe a parts tractor, or the start of an RJ restore. is the hole to the back left of the hood not factory? it's been for sale for a while, and I'm about ready to check if the price is getting a lot more negotiable
-
I recently purchased a 416 H. With the purchase came this plow that the seller told me may or may not fit. Looking at it (picture attached) I know it is not for this model. The plow is in pretty good shape hoping maybe I can modify it for the 416 H. If not maybe I can sell this one and pick one up that would fit. Looking for suggestions. Thanks Chris
-
Hey there all you Wheel horse guys - has anyone ever installed an Original tractor cab on a 400 series Wheelhorse that had Ark 550 loader installed or for that matter a custom built one. I looked through over 100 pages of the forums today and saw many applications for cabs alone and front end loaders but nothing marrying the two. Pictures, drawings, ideas, links to sites would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance for anything you can share with me. Best Regards, mcghs
-
Pics first What's left of the decal Ok lets start with these if you need some other view let Mr know and I'Lo get them. Thanks for the help
-
418A PTO clutch facing/ backing plate X-Reference compatiblility
melonman posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Hey guys, I am looking at needing to resurface/ replace PTO clutch facing / plate. I have a 31-18KE01 ('87 418-A). Diagram shows the assembly as PN 111238. Wondering how much difference there is between those found on 417-A or 312-A whcih all use 103817. The individual (component) part numbers I have found from those selling (on ebay) and mentioned on a forum are 4365 (facing or plate and/or facing only) & 6657 (rivets (or plate?). In the Toro digram this is only listed as an assembly form what I can see rivets not separate from friction or backing plate. I found an ebay seller with plate with material listed as 4365 & 6657. Are there different thickness and diameters for these-I found another selling the assembly as 103140 & 94-6650 that says are compatible with MANY of the C-series, B-series, etc. etc. Can anyone verify that there are any difference or a cross reference for those that are either discontinued part numbers or compatible? I did see someone mentioned that the plate itself they received from Toro was thinner and they needed to shim to make up for the difference. Any help? (-not looking for advice on how to do the friction material replacment-yes I know; I'm sure it is not that difficult.) Thanks, Larry- 1 reply
-
- c-series
- general discussion
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
This is the hood of my 1960 suburban I'm restoring for the Pensylvania show this year. I wanted to see what you guys thought! Thanks!
-
-
-
-
-
-
Thanks everyone for a quick lesson on these tractors. It helped very much when buying this one. So here it is. Looks to be a really good original. No paint underneath this paint. No decals appear to have been taped off. I think it does have the lauson engine on it still. Have not had it running yet. I will be needing to find the rest of the air cleaner and a muffler shield? Will probably put the smaller wheels back on the rear and leave this one as it is for awhile. Took a long time to get it looking like this.
-
My 551 had a brandy new H60 Tecumseh bolted to the frame when I got it but it had never been hooked up or run. It then sat for 25 years in a dry basement. I've gotten it running but now have a clutch issue. I've adjusted the clutch, brake rod and clutch finger by the ops manual, made sure all pulleys align, but cannot put it in gear with the engine running. The trans pulley turns so easily it just never stops even though the belt is loose with the idler disengaged - or even removed! The belt looks new and is correct (WH #1569). 551 pictures I seen on this site show the idler pulley and trans pulley about the same diameter. My idler is 3" and and the trans pulley 4". The belt guard fits well. What am I missing? The trans pulley would have to be stopped to put it in gear and that ain't happenin.
-
I spent about 2 hours today trying fruitlessly to get the 551 started and gave up. I took the mower deck off it and swapped it to the 400. I pulled the blades, sharpened and balanced them put them back on, greased the deck and chucked it under the 400. I'm very surprised at how well it cut....especially after I put the blades on the side they belonged and wasnt cutting with the back of the blades...oh well such is the way I learn...the hard way... First time I saw a left and right side blade. I'm also surprised at how the gear drive was relatively quiet. I've heard from others theyre quite loud. One question I do have is what length drive belt should be used for the mower deck? The one on there now is a True Blue HD 248-029. From the way I see it the mower shouldnt run unless the belt tensioner is engaged by unlocking the foot pedal doodad. Well my deck is engaged at all times. It was hard to get the belt on and its even harder to get the tractor started because the of the deck drag now. Other than that I had a great afternoon with the 400. It cut great once I relaized there was an issue with the blades. I say afternoon because its slow going (1 3/4 hours) compared to my 416 (about 45 minutes for 1 acre) or the Scag zero turn with a 72 inch deck I have been using (about 20 minutes). I wont have my 60 incher until the 19th of May when Charles brings it up. I mowed in second gear because the grass was too thick for 3rd. The Kohler surges a bit under load and up hill but all in all it ran awesome and the lawn looks really great too. The best 2 hours I could have on one of my new horsies.