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Showing results for tags '345-series'.
Found 21 results
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I just picked up an '86 417-A with Series II Kohler KT17. As I was testing it out in the seller's driveway I cranked up the throttle to see what it sounded like. The guy freaked out and said not to give it throttle unless the engine was under load because the governor on those KT17s doesn't work unless the engine is under load and it could blow up. Can anyone comment on this? - Ryan
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I know the helper spring Toro part# 110614 has been discontinued for the model 79361 2 stage snow blower. Mine was missing and I would like to see if I could find a match to it. Does anyone have one or could give me some idea of the specifications for it? Thanks
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Customized,Rare,Weird,Diffrent,Unique Wheel Horses
Charlie Smith posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Hello All. I have been looking around in my spare time. For rare, unique, coustimized, Different, coloured etc wheel horses. I've found some great ones out there. I was wondering do any of you have any pictures. Here's the ones I've found..... -
I recently bought a 1994 tall chute single stage snow thrower, model 79360. I have replaced the chain, both idler sprockets, both idler pulleys and one jack shaft bearing on the chain side. The auger is strait and the bearings are smooth. It runs quietly. I have it mounted on my 314H powered by a Kohler M16. I am shearing the pulley key on the jack shaft. It has happened twice now. The first time it threw the set screw so I thought it was a matter that the screw was not tight enough. Toro shows one screw although the pulley is drilled and tapped for two. I was careful I thought when I positioned and tightened that screw. After the first time, 20 minutes running, I added the second screw. I also noticed the pulley has some wobble to it so I used some shim stock in order that there would be no play between the shaft and the pulley. I ran it for about 20 minutes again and noticed both screws were loose so I used Loctite 242. I let that sit for about 30 minutes and went out again. In about 20 minutes I sheared the new key right off with a portion of it in the keyway of the pulley. The shaft is clear of the key but has been scored some. My driveway is paved. I was plowing before and built up some snow banks. The first time I sheared the key, the thrower was mainly resting on the scraper blade and I was just removing snow from the driveway, I thought I might have jammed it with some ice. The second time I raised the thrower to give it clearance so there was about 3/8†between the blade and the runners which I adjusted. I ease the machine into snow and creep along. I do not ram it into snow banks. I’ve seen videos of these things working really well. Mine was blowing snow beautifully but something is not right. Is it the fit between the pulley and the jackshaft? Why would Loctite not hold the set screws? What is wrong with my machine or what I’m doing wrong? I have to suspect there is a weak point where something will give or the belt will just slip. My belt is new and has the correct Toro Part number. It fits the way I have seen them mounted so I doubt that has any part of what is happening. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks Gary
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I've been reading through various chain & bearing repair posts regarding the snow thrower. I have just acquired a 1994. The auger, jack shaft bearings and drive sprocket are in good shape. The blower needs idler pulleys, a chain and the inside sprockets. The auger sprocket rotates with about a 1/4" of wobble and the teeth are getting sharp. Is it normal for the auger sprocket to be off a little when manufactured? The auger itself runs true. Not sure how far to go with the rebuild as I know the auger sprocket would have to be re-done at a machine shop. Here are a couple of pictures of the sprocket teeth. What do you think? Thanks for your time.
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trying to determine whether i have a good trans or not and have a question or more. i have an eaton 1100 in a rolling chassis that i want to test to see if its working well enough to justify using in a new tractor rebuild. i hooked it up to my 1848 pto with a longer mower belt to test it out. oil looks very clean so i left it and i know i need to get the correct filter on there, but for now its staying until i see some light at the end of the tunnel. just did a quick test tonight to see if i could at least get the lift to work. success on the first pull of the lever. hydro pump seems very quiet and no leaking or damp areas either. i worked the lift up and down from one extent to the other and it worked as good as any nice working lift i have. so I'm happy so far, now the questions...... to test the drive I'm going to get it up off the ground and see if i can get the wheels to turn in either direction. i want to run it this way for quite a while until i can get some raising of oil temp. is putting weight on the lift going to change anything as far as a test goes? i figure if it goes up and down, is quiet doing so and doesn't leak, I'm 99 % there.... is there any way to check to see if it is loosing pressure when it gets warmer? can a gauge be hooked up and is this easy enough to do? is it even worth finding out the pressures? what will having them tell me? is this a good enough way to test the whole hydro system? i think it will tell me at least if its working and if there are any leaks. i don't have a working engine that i can just throw in there to drive it around without puling one of my old starter gen motors from an unrestored 1277. i know this is probably the best way, drive it and get it nice and hot to be sure. i could swap it out from one of the other 1100s but then i got to deal with hoses etc and not really interested in pulling apart good working systems and opening other cans of worms. while it was running, and over the noise of the engine in the 1848, the pump seemed to be very quiet, quieter than the other 2 1100 tractors are. both of the other 1100s work well and aside from one having a leak in the lift, they both are leak free. ao at this stage i am happy with how things are going. just wondering if there was some expert opinions to help me on my way with some ideas..... thanks in advance for any input, fire away guys.....
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Does anyone know where I can get a Routing Diagram for an LT-1100 3-Speed Drive Belt. I'm looking for the routing diagram for the drive belt that runs from the engine to the transmission. Any help would be appreciated.
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Will a tiller for a 5xi work on my C-175 without having to do any modifications?
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I've been thinking about changing up my Kohler 16 to a V twin. The 16 runs great but I still would like more power to drive my 2 stage blower. I have been looking at the Briggs Vanguard, Honda and Kohler. I see Kawasaki also has some engines in this class. Obviously I need the right crank dimensions, I have to stay within a certain crank height for the belt guard and I have overall clearance to consider. I would appreciate any suggestions or experience anyone has to offer. I do not want to use an Onan. My intention is likely to put the 16 back in the 416-8 keeping it original and selling off the 14 Kohler that came out of the original 314H I started out with. Thanks
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I recently obtained a sorry looking 316-8 with Onan engine at a very good price. It turned out to be a good tractor that just needs a bit of paint and TLC so I'm keeping it. I've been looking for a manual that covers the basics on the engine e.g. routine maintenance, carb adjustments etc but so far I've only managed to find a parts manual. At present its starts and runs sweet but won't tick over nicely so I need to investigate ideally having read through the basics as I'm not familiar with this engine. Thanks Andy
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i thought i had my onans wiring figured out...... but i transferred a p216 from a 89 416-8 to a 91 416-H. now ,y problem with out tearing a good motor apart i need to figure out were to mount the back wire with round loop on, on a 416 onan use's a single terminal oil pressure switch were as the 520 uses a double pole switch. the wiring harness has a black and a blur wire for the oil switch. the motors i checked have the blue wire going to the switch but i don't know were to put the black wire. i did check the 416-8 frame and found not all of the pin in the 9 pin connector are used. but that still don't tell me were to put the black wire.the other 416's that i have and check have the black wire going with the blue wire down towards the oil switch. i might have to just pull the shroud of a complete motor. don't really want to do that though if somebody could help me out. thanks eric
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hi i have a 76 b-111 old school well after 30+ yrs the tires need changed the current size is 22x7.5-12 can i swap them with a 23x8.5-12 without alot of hassle thank u guys
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Got a good deal on this very nice 1980's 310-8 Speed last weekend. I traded my 1978 C121 8 Speed for it even up. I kept my mower deck. Looks like it will fit on this newer style machine. Hey the black hoods are taking over! Well, not yet.
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I've got a problem. a couple of years ago I bought a nos or close to nos 50" grader blade. only been mounted on tractor but never used. Now I hate to use it because new one's are getting very hard to find. I should have kept the 42" one I had , but sold it to help pay for the new one. a friend of mine just bought a good used one and payed all but what i payed for mine. I've been looking for a used one but haven't found one yet at a price i could afford.So I was wondering what you guys on here think. just say the heck with it and use it or save it since it is new. I've collected cars most of my life and know how valuable nos parts can be and scarce they are to find. So just not sure what to do. what does everybody think
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I was noticing there was a fair bit of belt residue on the belt cover of my 2 stage. Considering I haven't used it this much I found that a bit odd. In looking over the belt configuration I noticed the top idler pully is out of alignment as is the steel plate it's anchored to. When you look at the photos you will see the belt running off the left side of the pully. Is this a problem? Looks like it came that way from the factory. I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on whether it should be corrected and how to go about it if necessary. Thanks Guys.
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I would appreciate your views on the two styles of snow chuckers. I had a single stage some time ago on an IH 149. It worked well in lighter snow, not so good in wet slushy snow. Now I have the 2 stage and this year we have had warm and wet snow. The 2 stage handles the heavier snow but it takes a lot of power and really when it's slushy I am not so sure there is much of a difference but I have never tried the Toro single stage. I looked at a newer single stage the other day and can't help but feel there would be less power loss in the driveline. It's also a smaller unit to boot. Has anyone had the opportunity to use both in the same conditions?
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I have an opportunity to buy a low hour 414-8. I had heard those first OHV engines introduced in 1998 were not as good as the Magnum and K series. Does anyone have any comments one way or the other?
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Does anybody on fabricate these or make inserts in checker plate?
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I changed the gear oil in my 416-8. It looked like it had not been done in a while. I let the oil drain after running the tractor. I left the plug out for a couple of days. Then I filled the rear end with diesel and let that sit 2-3 days. I drained off the diesel and blew some air down the dipstick tube thinking I got it all and replaced the gear oil with 90-140. When I run the tractor the oil is full of air bubbles almost foams. It has a yellowish color. Did I somehow leave diesel in there?
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I now have the Wheel Horse I have wanted since becoming familiar with these tractors. Problem is I don’t know what to call it. It’s the model Wheel Horse never built. (as far as I know) I started with the latest Eaton Hydro I could find powered by a Kohler engine, a 1997 314H. Then I bought a 416-8 with a Kohler Magnum. It also had the Kohler carburetor! At that time I also bought a 520 front end along with gear reduction steering. The engine was mildly refreshed (335 hours) and the carburetor rebuilt. The engines have been swapped, the front end has been changed and the steering added. I now have 520 rear rims and tires mounted. Lastly I added hubs to the front axles. I would like to change the decals on the tower from 314 to……………….? I have no intention on misrepresenting the tractor, the model and serial number will remain unchanged. What should I call it? Assembled in Canada eh? :flags-canada:
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Hey guys, my tractor sat for a couple of weeks during the engine change over and while I was away on holidays. Came back to some oil on the floor. Pulled the dipstick and the oil had backed up...not much but had with pressure backed-up and flowed out around the dipstick rubber! I pulled the stick and that seemed to relieve the pressure, no real change in the oil level, started the tractor and everything operated as it should. No problems since, blew snow. Oil level down slightly. What caused this? This happened to me once before on my 520 after it sat for awhile. Nothing ever came of it. Was it some type of an airlock? New filter and oil in December. Thanks
