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We were not home for 4 days, so the bird bath needed filled. About 15 minutes after I filled it, this dude showed up for a swig. He had it all to himself. None of my bluebirds jumped in.

Built my own 6.5' x 12' with ramps that store under the rear and plenty of tie downs. The strips of angle iron indicated by the arrows were installed to support the counter sunk tie downs in the middle of the trailer. Can fit 4 tractors on it.

I kinda enjoy the vibration. I'm nearly 80 and some days that is the most stimulating feelin I get.

Just out of curiosity I checked the head bolt torque on a Kohler Magnum 10 engine. The manual calls for 25 to 30 foot pounds, I started at 25, no movement, went to 30, still ne movement, change to 40, nothing. At 45 foot pounds a couple of the head bolts did move a bit, most didn't. My guess is the factory torques them to 45 knowing they are using new bolts and no owner is going to retorque them. When torqueing head bolts I lay this little memory aid on top of the head so I don't have to look up the sequence.

I was looking for some WH goodies on Evilbay and came across this ad by A-Z Tractor Aftermarket 3 point hitch they have designed and are marketing. This is a 3pt hitch manufactured to work on all Wheel Horse garden tractors with the cast iron transmission. This hitch mounts on the rear axle just like the snow plow bracket. This hitch can be mounted with the snow plow bracket or with out it. The hitch uses the lift cable that is made for lifting the rear attachments. The hitch will fit on gear drive tractors or hydrostatic. All it takes to mount the hitch is 4 bolts and 4 nuts the same as the snow plow bracket. The hitch sits on top of the axle housing as to the snow plow hitch is on the bottom. This is a category O 3pt hitch and works with all 3pt hitch garden tractor attachments. The hitch has several holes for changing the lifting leverage and leveling adjusters on both lift arms. There are anti swing chains with adjusters. This hitch has been tested in many conditions and has held up under every test. Note! If you purchase this item and have any issues we want to know so we can correct them. This is a new item something never offered by wheel horse and A-Z Tractor has designed and manufactured this item. We also have a 3pt scraper box that works great with this hitch and plan to offer more attachments in the future.

I have found several of the lower bearing blocks for the reduction steering assembly cracked. Here is one that I have here that is cracked. If the block is worn and you try and drill it for a bushing it also usually cracks so I decided to make my own. I went and bought a short length of 1"x1.5" flat bar (over $20 for that, I guess steel prices must be up). Marked bar then cut off. I then drilled the blanks for the 3/4"x 7/8" bushings that will be installed. Then the holes were drilled for the mounting bolts and grease fitting. Bearing block bolted to steering block for test fit. I now need to order the bushings then I can finish these.

I use a 6.5'X14' that I can get all my buckets or 4 tractors on.

Mine is 5x8. Rear drop gate. Works great for one tractor and some attachments... Try not to focus on the two ruggedly handsome dudes ... they're just eye candy.

I took the last deck off and prepped for hibernation.

I bought my property 4 years ago and have been focusing on the house and other projects. But it's time for me to start working on the barn. This is a 1800's beam bank barn. It's approximately 35x65' in the main part. My first focus is going to be replacing the main barn floor. The outside definitely needs work as well, my long term plan is to get the outside metal but leave the wood siding on and just furr out the metal so the inside still looks original. There are plenty of areas I need to replace the wood as well as get it painted before doing metal. This is the "lean-to" off the side of the barn with a milk room is my current area that I work on the wheelhorses which is not the most ideal but it works for now. Here is the bottom of the barn along with a bunch of lumber that is going to be used as the floor. Planning on putting a stairway here between the bottom of the barn and the main floor. And finally the inside And here is the lumber I will be using to replace the floor, I got a deal on it from my work. They are 2x10's and a bit over 13' long First thing I need to work on is clearing out the main floor of all the stuff. And then in a 1/3 of the barn there is a 2-3" layer of concrete I need to remove, and then the entire floor needs to come up. There are a few floor beams I need to replace and reinforce and I want to get the floor somewhat leveled out as well.

Fired up the Fireball 8 on the Wheel a Matic for the first time after rewire and carb rebuild. B-80 engine has new valves and rings. Used the flywheel and shroud of the original engine.

Soooooo..... picked this up this morning. Kinda excited about it but also asking myself if I really need it. I need to learn to ask if I need it and not ask do I want it. It is a one owner 946 Snowco with original operators manual. Little rusty but not rotted. Fenders are the worst part of it. They are dented up pretty good. Has a hand winch up front, splash or gravel guard, non-skid decking all original. The previous owners purchased it new in 1965 when they bought a JD garden tractor from a dealer. Thank God it wasn't painted green and yellow. The cool factor on these little trailers are off the chart. Tilt bed just drive right up. So after buying it I have no way of getting home. My truck has no hitch. Call a friend who is a little leary of hooking it up because of the whole there's no lights or plate on it. We wind up taking it to a friend of his that was like a mile away. Him and I worked out a deal where as he is going to rewire it, install new LED lights and replace the cable on the winch for a reasonable price. I will get it from his place next week. Not sure what my plans for it will be. If I lean towards keeping it I would have to put a hitch on my truck. It sits pretty low so I'm not sure if just putting a ball on my bumper would do the trick. May just pass it on, I dunno. I could picture it painted up to match your favorite tractor color scheme. That's what these things were built for. Be a hit at the Big Show !

Today was tire day. I’ve been mulling over putting these Deestone ribs on the 867 for a while. I love the fat little tires they came with originally, but they aren’t made like that anymore. Mine were rotted too bad to keep. Also replaced the tube in my son’s Ranger (last pic). Some dingbat pinched the previous tube and it had a leak. After swapping this thing, I feel like I’ve had a hard day at the gym! Even with the tire changer, these little guys are hard to work with!

Put the last deck on the storage dolly for the winter storage. Got our first snow this AM....better go warm up the 520H and the Ber Vac dually.

I made some good progress on rehabbing a pretty tired and worn 1963 dozer blade and getting it set to go on the 854. I’m going to experiment with plowing this winter instead of using the walk-behind blower. The last couple of years the blower was needed only a couple of times while I had to push-shovel a lot of 3-4” snowfalls that were quite wet. This frame/blade came to me through @ebinmaine. The angle lever and rod as well as mounting brackets were already gone before he got it. The ’63 42" dozer was a unicorn. Last frame with a foot release for the angle lock, first frame with cast iron ends on the trip springs. It mounted via two separate angle iron brackets with ¾” shoulder bolts for the frame pivots. Here’s the OM and IPL, if you are curious! Since I don’t know if this is a long term relationship, I prepped and painted only the face of the blade. At some point in its life, the lower blade must have worn past the wear edge because a PO layered in a new 4” band of sheet steel to rebuild the lower edge and then attached a new wear strip. Not a bad piece of work, but s/he never painted it! You can see the new band extending above the bolted on wear edge in the picture. I’m too lazy to want to have to bolt/unbolt the frame to mount the blade so from @wallfish I got one of the newer “inside” brackets. I’ve adapted the frame by adding a ¾” rod through the frame end holes and used a 1.5" spacer bushing on each side to keep the frame centered on the bracket. I drilled and cottered the spacers to the rod so it’s a reversible adaptation. I’d previously added a front attach-a-matic to the 854. It usually holds a front weight that helps me feel secure on the uphill parts of my property. But I was concerned about possible interference with the old-style “triangle” frame. Whew, it just misses! BTW, as many of you know, the nuts on the bracket bolts are a close clearance. The perfect use case for my recent birthday present--a set of Craftsman Pro ratchet/open end combo wrenches! The solid lift link (I’ll add a picture after it’s painted) is 10.5” on center for the ⅜” holes and it’s bent to have an offset of about 1” outboard at the plow frame. It attaches in the second from the end hole on the rock shaft arm. I’m waiting on a rod and Heim ends to build the angle actuator rod and finish the angle control lever. More pics and measurement progress then!

A year or three ago Trina picked up a frame of a portable garage from our local mechanic. She was intending to use it as a garden shed & greenhouse. After a couple gardening seasons she has decided that a usable greenhouse here for us is impractical and unnecessary. A few weeks ago she and her momma started making up that frame in the area behind the barn so we could have a better covered parts area. Today.... They finished building the frame AND also built a great parts shelf! Reused recycled upcycled heavy duty 12 foot pallets. The rest of the space will be used for storing as many as four "future project" tractors.

Been snowing all night plowed about 6:30 but has added more... lost half a tree up against the house. Been using the Charger 16 with the big plow (56in) from a D series..This heavy wet stuff is about all she can deal with actually drags the engine down before I spin out. Sorry no actionvpics my photographer avoid the out side when it snows Power off since 3:15 am

I've had a 5x8 aluminum utility trailer with wood stake sides for quite a few years. Fantastic small trailer that is easy to haul and is small enough for my tractors to haul around the yard no problem. It has served me (and many other friends/family) very well, but it had a few downsides.....I never had a proper set of ramps that worked with it well, and it was a little "short" for my last tractor pickup After a few conversations with my old man, he decided that we both "needed" access to a larger trailer with proper ramps. So, an agreement was made. I passed my trusty old trailer on to him, and we worked a deal out for this beautiful specimen a 5'8"x12' all aluminum with 24" sides and a bifold ramp. Just brought it home yesterday. Its so nice, I kinda don't want to haul anything in it...LOL. But at least I won't be scaring the hell out of myself driving my zero turn up/down a set of 2x10s again

@BillD One suggestion I will make when it comes to trailer construction, buying or building. Trailers that use a steel tube construction, these may seem like a good strong construction and they are. Here is the issue with them - There is no way to properly paint the inside of the tubing. They collect moisture through condensation, rain, etc. This causes them to rust from the inside out, so you often don't notice that it is happening until your frame breaks. How do I know this?? I had a flat bed utility trailer that used square tubing for the main frame construction. One day the frame broke right in front of one the spring shackles. A few taps on the out side with a pick hammer proved that the rest of the frame was not in sound shape either. I have also seen this issue multiple times with boat trailers that use a tube construction. The trailer that I built is made with 3" C-channel that has a 5/16" wall, all of the angle iron has 1/4" wall, and the tubing and angle for the tongue has 5/16" walls. Over kill??? Maybe, and it does weight 900lbs empty but I have no worries when it comes to frame failure.

A costly horror show here in the PeeAaa. Around $500 bucks to get one inspected, titled, and registered. I have bought $200 trailers just to get the title, the serial ID plate,and the tag. oops

5x10. Bought it 20 some years ago. Did a refurbish on it this summer. New paint, lights & wiring, replaced wheel hubs. If I remember believe I paid $895 for it new at county fair. Definitely got my $$ worth out of it all these years.

or this for leaves and compost

Picked up a new to me 48 inch plow that will go on my c-121 tommorow. Set of wh plastic wheel weights and tires chains. Thanks @Sparky remember if you need it you know where it is!

Been a bit since I last posted about the 875. Rebuilt the carb, got the nasty red paint off of the Genny and regulator, rewired, moved solenoid so it doesn't start a fire when the rock shaft is lifted. New fuel shut off and lines. New battery and throttle cables and replaced the rotted battery box. Still have to tidy up the wires and decide what exhaust to run. Once the engine is running I'll have to make some hood and seat pan bushings and install the PTO parts.

After I saw on the forum that he was retiring from making WH seat cushions, I PMed him to ask some questions about seat upholstering for tractors. He kindly replied with his phone number and a request that I call. We spoke for over an hour about fabrics (including the changes in product and availability and the pros and cons of different materials), patterns, equipment, techniques, and having a business “on the side” of regular full-time job. I learned a great deal that day and I think we both enjoyed the conversation a lot. Another fine example of the kind of folks that make this forum special. Thank you, @953 nut for the update. RIP Bob.

NO ... most of us have at least one oddball in the herd ... looks like that one is your odd ball. You might have to find a belt guard for it. It aids in clutching for shifting. I believe there are repops out there. RJ's are favorites around here & you did good on the price ... you don't wanna know what I paid for this one. Ollie @oliver2-44 I thought you said RJs are hen's teeth in TX??

Oh, the opportunities to make an off color remark on that quote are endless. When you put the tractor back together use a dab of blue loctite thread locker on the bolts.

Maybe some photos will provide a little inspiration for you. Served my father well for over 40 years , and it's mine now and not going anywhere anytime soon. This trailer hauled every Wheel Horse that we sold or serviced. He bought it used and always said it was the best $100 bucks he ever spent

Did a K car ever make 5 years.

I bought an all aluminum 5.5'x11' trailer to replace my home made 4'x8' trailer. Wheel Horses fit on better. Rear gate comes apart if you don't want it sticking up in the wind when hauling empty.

Lower steering shaft flanged bearing ready to install. Lower steering shaft flanged bearing installed. Frame overview showing mid Tach and Lower steering shaft flanged bearing.

Saw this and thought of you Eric.

Finally managed to get just about all the painting done on the c121. Need to do a second coat under the hood though. Waiting on a few parts to come in and the fun begins. I’m Looking for another meter to go in place of the old amperes gauge.Guess I could do a simple volt meter since this is going to have 301 gen start ? AZ tractor parts has this type available

They’re just paranoid. He means no harm.

Some before n after pressure washing pics of an 8 speed I'm helping a friend with. Ain't spotless but a LOT easier to handle.

Awesome barn! The whole time reading your post all I kept thinking was “how much stuff I could store in there!”

Wanted score these seat pads while they were available. You never know when sources dry up. Had to try them on for size before packaging them back up and storing them for future use.

Went out again to clear area in front of shop and driveway...It is a magnum 16 and thus has the walbro fixed main jet. May swap in a Kohler #30 seems to be a bit too lean when she really hits the big piles.. Still no action shots

Here is a quick drawing of the block

I worked at a local marina when I was in middle school during summer break. I collected $5 (shows how old I am at that price!) ramp fee & had to verify passes on the prepaid unlimited customers. It was always great entertainment. Saw plenty of tow vehicles end up in the river, bumper damage from jack knifing trailer, etc. Working there & moving boats/trailers around I had mastered my trailer skills long before I had a drivers license.

My only suggestion is to stay above 5 feet on the width. My trailer is 5x10, so nothing with a 60 inch deck will fit on it. Smaller round hoods will fit side by side, but only one if something like a C series or classic. I have transported two tractors but only by turning one sideways and wedging it between the rails. No fun getting it out… I wish my trailer was at least 6x12. I could trade up, but it’s hard to find another with a solid steel floor as I have now. It was home built and is much heavier built than trailers in its size range.

That is old used motor oil. I'll let is soak and dry in the sun for a few days before storage.

@gwest_ca ? @Retired Wrencher I know that 1966 and older are all short frames except for the 953 and 1054 models. 1967 is when they started the split. 867 were short. 1067 and 1267 were long. 1968 to 1973 I believe most were long. I'm not sure if they were short frames in that time. Maybe Commando?? 1974 and 1975 the B Series were mid length. 1976 and 1977 the B series were long frames. 1974 and up the C Series were all long frames. There are of course exceptions along the way such as GT14 or D series or Lawn Ranger or the 1978 and up B series which was a lawn tractor.

Got a Kohler #30 carburetor in process. Here's the innards.

Chickens !!!

Agreed, some vibration is normal. I grew up mowing with a 310 and I still remember how weird my hands felt after 2 hours of driving it. My hands felt 'buzzy' for lack of a better term, and everything I touched felt like rabbit's fur.

Bob was an avid bow and rifle deer hunter and enjoyed fishing, watching baseball and football games, Small wonder he was one of the good guys. https://www.bacarellafuneralhome.com/obituaries/Robert-Ellison-15/#!/TributeWall

What a great old barn you have. It looks like it's stands good and is structurally in sound shape. I like old barns. I was fortunate to work on one built in the 1880's It had "1880" in the gable end that the owner asked me to replicate so he could have the original for display in his home. At that time I had a Ford van that was my work vehicle with ladder rack on top. In order to paint the gable and be able to reach the "1880" when replacing it, I set my longest wooden extension ladder on the ladder rack on top of the van. It made for quite a shaky ladder! That barn was struck by lightening a few years later and burned down. Another time we renailed and painted a galvanized metal roof on a barn. I used my fishing pole to cast a line across the ridge then drug ropes that we tied to the trailer hitch on my El Camino to tie around our waists while on that steep roof. 40 years ago when we painted barns, when we had one that the paint was gone or nearly gone, we would "prime" with linseed oil. Let it dry a few weeks then come in and prime and topcoat. The reason the man I worked for used linseed oil was to restore the oil in the wood. He claimed if you applied primer, the dry wood would absorb the oil out of the primer and leave the pigment on the surface. What memories seeing your barn brought back. Looking forward to following your progress.