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Took about 2yrs, If i was single probably could of banged this out in 6 months,lol. Funny story about paint, i bought that "Majic" from tsc in the gallon size. I dont recommend using this. At the very least do not waste your time with the tech sheet for mixing. I suggest thinning it out way more than it says to. I use a DeVilbiss gun, i forget tip size i used, maybe 1.5. This paint flowed terrible. Had to really thin it and shoot multiple coats to get it to lay out nice. Primer from Summit Racing, epoxy 1st, did my filler then 2k urethane primer. 320,400,600 grit. So i did frame chassis in this. I built a "roller" then did bodywork on the tin, which took awhile. Over a year later i painted some smalls in a spray bomb can, rustoleum regal red. I was rather impressed with this product. Flowed well. Trick is to take your time thru the sanding, not getting lazy stepping down in grit and to have a clean working environment to spray. If you spray in the summer outside you will get bugs and trash. Engines, suspension parts etc ill paint outdoors, also stuff in primer coats, final on body panels inclosed area is a must. I used that regal red in cans to do all tin. Its 2 very different shades. I was very upset when i started final assembly and debated repainting chassis but just left it, whatever man, if anyone ever said anything regarding, id definitely have a few choice words, possibly speak ill of their mother! So in closing regal red rustoluem rattle cans produce a decent end result. The key is prep, do a couple of coats with enough flash time. Most importantly, know when to put the can down or you will get a run! If i ever build another one, id get a gallon of single stage from summit or eastwood. Ivepainted a few cars/trucks with it and got good results. The white for wheels i think some sherman williams i had left over from a tow truck cab i painted awhile back

I got some wiiiiiide rims a few weeks ago from @midpack. Decided to try out a set of OTR Lawn Trac 24x12.00-12. This evening after some other things I drilled out the wheel lug holes to accept 1/2" lugs. Then mounted the wheel & tire combos. OH. MY. GAWD. BECKY. Look at her butt.

Got the beam replaced. And lifted and supported the main support beam it actually looks fairly level in the picture now.

Spring cleaning of the horse stall.

Since acquiring this IHCC I have slowly but surely getting some needed work done to it. I have rebuilt the starter/generator, replaced the PTO bearing, and just finished combining the two decks into one good deck. I still haven't installed the finished deck onto the tractor yet, finished it last night. After work today I'll hang it. Overall it's in great shape. Any of you who have ever had an older Cub know just how solid these things are. Hopefully when this is done I can move on to my Charger project.

Well the wheel horse commando 8 is slowly but surely going back together I only started this project in December unfortunately time and other things have really slowed the project down but it’s going back together now and that’s all that matters. I have a complete forum titled “commando 8 restoration” but i don’t think many people are seeing it because of how long its been around and how inactive I have been on it so if you’d like go check that out but here’s some pictures

You are all kind of right !! It is an 8 speed. For sure it is not a #5060 or a #5071, the drum placement tells us that, but it still could be a #5073...if...it has 1 1/8" axles. If it has 1 1/8" axles it either has 8 or 10 pinions in the differential. If it does have 1 1/8" axles, and by looking at it's condition, it could be a #5073 Limited Slip trans, or a #5091 8 pinion trans. If it has 1" axles, game over. It is a #5086 or a #110996 8 speed with a 4 pinion differential. All 1" axles are 4 pinion differentials wether they are 3, 4 or 8 speeds. If the axles are 1 1/8", shine a light in one of the seat bolt holes and look down the other. See if you can see how wide the differential is or if can count the number of bolts holding the differential together. The 10 pinion differential has 5 bolts and is much wider then the 8 pinion differential. Turning the axles by hand may tell you if LSD, but if the spring is weak it may not work so you can see. As always, the best way to tell is to open it up.

Hello everyone, wanted take 1st take a moment to thank everyone here who helped with my questions and to the vendors who supplied me with the all the items needed to complete this build. This is not a "correct" restoration, more of a "resto-mod" if you will. Its a combination of a B-80,C-125, and a C-100. All were bought for less than a $100 a piece and non were in working order. It literally took all 3 to build one working one for one reason or another. They were all gonna be scrapped, all were MP scores that were left on someone's property outside in the elements 15-20yrs. All same story, owner passed, family left with the cleanup. Had alot of fun, other than the linkage to mower deck,everything was taken apart, media blasted and repainted. I ran outta media the day i was blasting deck. I use a coal slag from TSC. Its hit or miss if they ever have any, guess nobody really uses it, IDK. I built the trailer hitch receiver from a 2nd engine stand i never use. I took pictures of entire build and would be happy to answer any questions. Everything works as it should, however im on the fence if I should push her into normal yard work, I currently have a 312-8,B80,308-8 that are all working that I use regularly. Only issue i have with current build is after i leveled deck, i can only raise it if i lower wheels to lowest setting or deck hits nub from piece that holds deck linkage to bottom of tractor.

We’re all for cutting back on sugar — but let’s start tomorrow. It’s National Jelly Bean Day, and we still have plenty of Easter candy on hand. Did jelly beans really exist during the Civil War? It’s possible, but they first appeared in the popular press after the turn of the century. We love jelly beans for their no apologies take on instant gratification. And lots of color. Their look is part of the appeal, don’t you think? And yes, their egg-like shape make them the perfect Easter treat. Grab a handful on April 22. Your dentist never has to know.

Bill is correct. Google your washer, I found all kinds of help vidios and tore down my front loader and replaced the bearings and seals in the drum and the door seal...parts were $40 with all tools that I have.

I think this will flow!

@peter lena yes I have been using ethanol free gas in all my small engines for years. Before i fill my 5 gallon can with ethanol free gas I pour Sta - bil in the can . Snowblower, tractors , lawn mowers, chippers, ..etc. no matter what needs gas it's treated and ethanol free. If it was a tractor I would be keeping I would do fuel lines and carb. It's not a keeper and runs great so I'm not messing with those. Give the next owner something to do.

Correct. The axles in this case determine externally at least what is inside so far as differential type. 1 inch axles would typically have 4 pinion differentials. 1.125 axles would have 8 pinion differentials. Pre-1974 with 1.125 axles may have limited slip 10 pinion differentials. The easiest way to determine this is by turning one hub to see how the opposite hub turns in response. If it turns the opposite direction, it is NOT limited slip. That would be an 8 pinion. If the opposite hub turns the same direction, it IS limited slip. The transmission in the pics above appeared to me to have 1 inch axles. That should be a 4 pinion differential regardless of tractor model. Edit: a transmission with limited slip is a 6 speed. Without it would be an 8 speed.

I was never a fan of ags on the front don't know why. Guess its a all wheel drive thing. Most guys would say they are mounted backwards but they say better steering on backwards I don't know. That rig would be great with The beefy Firestone tri ribs if you got the hair to take out a fourth mortgage. I have those rears on a plow mule in 23 -10.5 ... labeled some other brand but they ran huge too. Really great traction and good price point at the time.

I'd do a trade depending on what ya got. No tecumseh engines though lol

The 8 speed is a bit more work to install than a 6 speed. Input pulley, belt, brake hardware, and the later style brake band are needed. Yes, you can do it to a round hood or short frame...

Trades Mike? I got a nice SG 12 I could drop right in there. I was gonna put this round hood up for 550 see if there's interest. Really on the fence about selling a roundy tho. Lemme check the inventory see what else I might have to offer.

Sounds like my luck. Replace a drive belt - tire goes flat. Change the oil - gas tank grommet starts leaking.

Oil change and first ride around the block on the Suburban

This is just flat out impressive.

I got lucky and picked up a set of early 80's Sears garden tractor wheels and tires for $40 6-7 years ago. Bolted right up and fit and look good on my 414-8. I have 3 sets, ag tires, and wide and narrow turf. The ags and narrow turf are fluid filled for extra traction.

Today I drove 6 hours, round trip, to pickup a rototiller for my 414-8. I'll power wash it and disassemble far enough to replace the leaky shaft seal. (Suggestions for parts sourcing?) I also connected the throttle linkage & governor on the Troy Bilt tiller, and tweaked the carb. It's purring away. I guess I have no more excuses to delay Donna's garden expansion any longer!

I do it mainly for the snowblower. It's just a habit for me now. Depending on the winter the snowblower may go a year between it's last use to the first use of the next season.

FYI. If you're using that gas within 6 months or even a year. No stabilizer required. No harm!! But not required..... We use NO additives in our fuel even on the engines that are only seasonal.

I have two 8 speed machines so I know about the switch you are talking about. The hydro tractor brake linkage is quite different but I see the square hole down low on the left side where a switch could be added. Some day I will do some playing around with this idea. I often wondered why the brake rod had that flat plate on it, I guess now I know. Thanks for the idea. I guess a guy could even add brake lights to the rear fender if inclined.

Once the neutral position is set I have never had one move out of position. If it got a little out of adjustment and the tractor was started worst case would be that it might creep ahead or back slowly.

I am pretty sure it's the water pump. The spin was not letting the water out and the more water I got out the better it worked. I finally put the shop vac on the drain hose and the machine reached full speed on the spin cycle I will look it up but the fun is in saving money to keep the lifestyle and money in the pocket.Juat like fixing tractors,it's all in finding everything out before tearing it apart.

Looks bleeping great from here! I like wide tracs and I can not lie!

Deestone 23x10.5x12 ag tires. Hardly used. $50 for the pair. Sold… Cast rear wheel weights. 75.00 I’ll be at the show most of the day on Thursday & Friday.

Well I got the deck on only to find out I have to take it off again. One of the spindles is a little loud. I should have swapped the spindles from the rotted deck as they were really quiet when I had it on. I did remove them from the rotted shell. Shoulda coulda woulda. I thought about swapping the spindles but decided to roll the dice. Snake eyes! These decks are not as easy to take on and off as Wheel Horses and attach a matic system. PITA.

Now you guys know why I called Steve in. I have no idea how he remembers all that stuff!

CALL Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA

They must be rare today because the spark plug hole stripped on mine, and you can’t find a used head. If you do, they want big money for it. I’ve tried hila coil, it didn’t hold, tried a cheap aluminum solid thread insert and it didn’t hold. So I bought a better steel insert and so far so good. If it blows out, ill try to find a plug with bigger thread, and thread it to fit

I decided to play a little last night. After all, this is the 60th anniversary of the 875, the first hydro!

And then there's those &^%$#@!! Bears 🐻 that's got 5 of em and a Magnum 16.....

Looks like 1 inch axles. If that is correct you have an 8 speed with a 4 pinion differential.

Now THAT's a manual!

Trina's new bridge from the backyard to the garden area.

Pull the main jet out counting the turns. Spray a bunch of carb cleaner down the hole and reinstall the jet. If the carb isn't too bad it will clear out the carbunkles. If it doesn't work chances are there is so much junk in the trunk that it really needs to be torn apart. That Cub carb looks pretty nasty

Your restoration is outstanding, you done goooood! I have ignored the manufacturer thinning instructions for decades. As you said, the Majic will give you a good finish if thinned to the point where a stir-stick pulled out of the pot stops dripping in less than three seconds, then add the hardener and shoot two light coats within a few minutes of each other. Walk away and don't touch it until the following day.

The beefy tires had me thinking it was an all terrain mower conversion. I put a bigger pulley on the other Raider 12 just to do it, it’s something like 5.25” nothing extreme, just to get a little more cruise speed, it still crawls in low 1. But the one I got from Mike I’m not pulley swapping. I’m going to see what some polishing will do before I think about sanding and painting… I know it won’t look perfect but may still come out looking decent with some blemishes or patina as some call it.

I just got back from the F.I.R.S.T. Robotics world championship competition that were held in Houston last week. I volunteered as a robot inspector. Had a wonderful time interacting with the students while inspecting their robots. The local high school team I mentor fields 2 teams. Only the upperclass team qualified as one of the 600 teams in the world competition. We did OK, ending up ranked #3 out of the 75 teams in our division. We were the captain of the 3rd seated alliance in the 8 alliance double elimination playoff round. We ended up 4th in playoff rounds. Out of 3,690 teams world wide, we are ranked #62, #46 in the US, and #2 in the state of Mo.

As a long time police equipment installer, I love to see the proper tools used!

I want to clear something up right here on the phrase above. For future reference of yourself and also anyone who may read this thread. Don't drop the bowl off of a Kohler carburetor while it's still on the engine. Ever. IMHO and experience there should be absolutely NO such thing as dropping the bowl. No one should ever remove the bowl from the bottom of the carburetor because if you THINK you need to do that, you KNOW you need to REBUILD it PROPERLY. There should be a gasket in there along with a baffle piece. If it is more than 3 to 5 years old with NON ethanol it might be usable. If it's more than a month or two using ethanol gas, the gaskets and baffle are trash and can only be installed once. Pop it out and send it up here. Looks like it has some significant corrosion. It will need to be disassembled and the Welch plug taken off the side so it can be properly cleaned behind it. FYI: That will need to soak some and run through a few cycles of my ultrasonic cleaner. With transportation it'll be a two or three week process.

Those are super easy to clean and rebuild. IMHO and experience do NOT replace it. The float and needle in particular is the easiest thing to do. I'd be happy to help if needed.