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I finally finished restoring my 701 ! I began a restoration thread a little over 3 years ago, and for various reasons (other projects , work, new products , hand surgery etc ) the project kept getting pushed to the side. But now it's done so just enjoy the finished product. Engine and rear axle completely rebuilt, everything stripped to bare metal, all pits in the metal were filled, all stainless and grade 8 hardware throughout, very hard to find NOS 1576 Glasstex drive belt, Carlisle tires , K & B greasable hitch pin, K & B tie rod, all new wiring, reproduction shower head muffler and all stainless exhaust, you get the idea....no shortcuts taken. It's just a shame that someone before me destroyed the originality because it had a very unique and provable early life. It was originally sold new locally with a mix of 1961 and 1962 parts when new ( 1962 hood , 1962 and later " thin " steering fan gear. Two of the previous owners are well respected round hood experts , and it was sold by one of them at a large local Wheel Horse only auction about 8-9 years ago with the original parts and paint intact . That's when it got messed up .

Pretty much done with this project so I thought it was time to share some final pics with you. There is a couple small pieces that I am waiting for, but apparently Huck Finn's Log Raft Transport across the Mississippi river must not be running right now. One of the last items that I did install was the hour meter, I made a bracket and found a nice place to install it. On with the final shots. Thanks for coming along on this build. Now I have 8 months to figure out which one of my tractors to restore next.

We celebrate Sylvester the Cat Birthday on April 19. We all love the whimsical cat who keeps on chasing a small birdie he can never get. There are moments when we can’t help but root for him seeing how desperate he gets. We occasionally shared his frustration and felt for his failure. He also managed to help us laugh and forget our woes. What more can we ask from a cartoon tuxedo cat with some speaking issues? Sylvester’s birthday is a big deal for all his fans and we are excited to share this day with you. Television was a revolutionary invention back when it was first introduced in 1927. It introduced us to the wonder of motion pictures. Then in 1948, the first cartoon on television, “Crusader Rabbits” was released specifically for the television audience. The cartoons soon became a kids’ favorite and the cartoon characters gradually conquered the television. In 1945, Friz Freleng officially introduced Sylvester to the world. His predecessor already appeared in “Naughty but Mice” in 1939. Sylvester spends most of his time chasing Tweety and always failing. His catchphrase, “Sufferin’ succotash,” is also an unforgettable voice for most fans. The phrase is used as an exclamation of dismay and it has been said that what Sylvester is really trying to say is — “Suffering Savior,” but his heavy tongue gets in the way. Sylvester almost always is portrayed as an antagonist. But there are episodes where he is showcased as the good guy. In others, he is paired with his son.

I store my belts and mule drives with the decks.

We went to Baton Rouge, and ended up driving to New Orleans to the WWII Museum. There are a lot of exhibits, displays, photos, etc. of the war, both the Europe and the Pacific wars. I didn't really take any pictures of some of the interesting stuff, it was so crowded it was hard to take clean images without a bunch of tourists in front of them. It was busy and crowded. I did take some, more as an afterthought, and of the larger displays. They even had displays of what homes in America would have looked like during the war, I.e. kitchen with war time appliances, and a living room complete with a radio next to a fireplace, I.e. Roosevelt's Fireplace Chats. BTW, it isn't cheap including the parking. It's close to the Super Dome in the business district of New Orleans.

First mow of the season and first in many years for this 312-8 that I finished refreshing over this past winter. I completed the deck rebuild last winter.

I put 15x10 ss cragars on my 702 with 28-10.5/15 drag slicks on them and made it look very very cool.

IMG_9288.mov

Mick ... old news this side of the pond. You oughta see it go on a pulling track. Show we go to every year brought it in two years in a row. Costs like 75k to get it not including transportation cost.

As of today, both the 1989 312-8 resto-mod and the 1989 310-8 are now sporting NOS mower decks. No more patching rust or getting dirt in the old eyes while mowing.

Thought this might be of interest.

Consider this: If tines cost you $300...and last for 15 years.... that's only $20/year. Surely, you (and I) have blown up $20 on MANY useless things... Or, maybe you'd rather use a pick and shovel. (lol).

Some pictures my daughter took:

I made the trip out to their home show at Andover, SD in 2021. Then in 2023 and 2024 it came to one of my local shows at Burnett, WI IMG_9410.mov

I think we found the "wide rear Wednesday" champion! 51 moldboards? That is some serious ground engaging power!!!

Just to say I did something today, I tried a new wheel color.

He's getting bigger. I told him to show me he could operate the tractor tonight, and when he was able to prove he could start and stop and shift without grinding I told him to go cut, so he did. Huh, videos aren't working.

Well... Got another beam to replace I should have seen this one coming I knew it was cracked they had a couple boards on either side, but I decided it would be better just to replace it. And yes I need to do some concrete work behind that beam. Can't really tell haha, but I leveled out the beams along the front of the barn. I started working on the back side as well. Once I get that done I can do the middle, then run a string line the length of each beam to level out any low spots.

Basement wiring is done but for me swapping one ceiling light. New workshop now has its own dedicated 120V circuits for power on the left, and power plus ceiling lights on the right. Lights are switched by the front door. Yet to be done: Two 220V circuits for heaters. Two 220V circuits for air compressors.

Nothing wrong there !! That is just the slack between the 2 axles and the roll pins or "C" clips.

Actually, H10C is a big block plug. How much difference that makes? Who knows? Use an Autolite 295

Make sure the engine pulley groove is clean. No paint, no rust in the groove. A wire brush with the engine running makes for a quick cleaning of it. Second, use a lawn mower type 29" belt and NOT a rubber belt or a cog belt that are designed for electric motors. The belt needs to slip in the engine pulley groove for the clutching effect when the pedal is pushed and let out slowly. Then it should grab tight when full pressure is applied by the spring when the pedal is released all the way.

Dan you always do such nice work on your tractors! really excellent

Well, it's that time of year and can't wait to get out there again to some of the shows! We go on Saturdays

Our soil is heavy and often wet but dries well. No concrete qualities to it. I'll be using the Single Ripper Spike in a similar manner to your moldboard as far as ripping open and to some extent turning the surface. The biggest advantage for the mold-board is it brings the rocks up to the surface for easy collection in addition to allowing for quicker drying of the soil.

Cleaning up the techy head. Head gasket was leaking. Going to get it working for the raider 9. Where the Tecumseh engines white? I see white red and looks like the last color was black. I need to get a different carb at some point. The original air filter won’t fit this cheap eBay one. Putting it back together tomorrow.

I've had the opportunity to see Kory Anderson's 150hp Case. He is a good down to earth guy that built a very impressive machine, In Case you did not find the build video.

First saw one at the I&I Historic Farm Days in Penfield, IL. have always wanted one. Have about 40 pictures downloaded from internet. Thought about replicating one using Harley rims/tires.

Those tires are huge @ebinmaine are they much heavier than the old ones? Today I did this, I got some nail polish containers and paint to touch up the 312 and 308. I still need to get some black paint. I also painted the old hood badge from the new hood for the 312 for a sublimation printer project for a hat. The old art degree coming in handy 😁.

I got the BIG OTR Lawn Trac 24x12.00-12 tires on the wheels from @midpack Also got the Tecumsehorse in the new workshop space. FIRST TRACTOR IN THERE! That's in there specifically for mounting the rototiller up. @76c12091520h Hitch. My own rear Tach-o-matic. Some tiller pics...

416-H all cleaned up, ready for the season Also took the plow off the 8-Speed and put on the 42” SD deck. After I got the 416-8 running right, this thing is a beast with the 42”, maybe I have to upgrade to a 48” to give a little challenge?

If you have a scrap piece of flat copper or brass you can use it as a backer" when you try to weld the tines up. Steel does not stick to brass or copper. Consider it good welding practice. doesn't mater what ir t looks like, because your going to grind it to a square flat profile anyway.

Is this normal? Both back axles move the same distance at the same time. I was gonna do seals the whole way around, but if I need to pull the trans apart, I'd rather know now. 20250417_202505.mp4

I, along with three others, took five college students to Burnsville, N.C a little over a month ago. I totally agree a lot of works still needs to be done. About any tradesman can be used and even those who don't feel they have anything to offer can be utilized. The folks we met were sincerely appreciative of any help we were able to provide. The college students were troopers and in college student style crawled in muddy crawl spaces removing insulation from between floor joists to installing insulation in tight fitting attics.

Yeah I laughed when I saw 3 inch diameter. I'm not even going to mess with the blades. I'm going to use my most used tool in my box on it, the "FOR SALE " sign .

I buy the plug wire kits at Tractor Supply and use them to make up wires when needed.

Friz Freleng and Chuck Jones are an inherent part of us Baby Boomers lives, we just don't know it. Some how we knew at a very early age that hitting someone in the face with a frying pan or dropping an anvil on their head hurt and was wrong. It's seems like the last two generation may not of figured that out thus cartoons of the last 40+ years. In the words of Foghorn Leg Horn " It's a joke son, I say a joke, humor boy"

Just got back from a mission trip in Asheville, N.C., what a truly great experience that was. They still need lots of help to recover, please remember them with any prayers and donations, the needs are many. Samaritans Purse and other church organizations are where the vast majority of the help is coming from.

@JimSraj most important to have a very solid hold on that deck , have used a pipe wrench inside of empty spindle mount base , with a 4 ft pipe helper , easily over powered the bend area , the leverage , lets you gently tweek the bend area . initially secured deck up to a tree , for solid leverage advantage . just and experiment , that worked , pete

I had one with one spindle mount bent bad. Stripped deck down and used heat with a hammer and dolly. Take you time and move the metal slowly. Check progress with straight edge from the bottom side of deck. Take your time and work metal slow

I found this shot. It shows the routing as it comes up from the bottom. Of course your cable would be routed to the dash lever.

I run ATF in my Sundstrand hydros. Having been inside one with motor oil and one with ATF, I will stick with the latter.

Also mentioned was the cable connections. I don't have a real good picture of it but this might help.

$16.99 at Advance this week! Say no more...

The temperature dipped to 19.3 degrees (f) last night, so today I removed the mower deck from the 414-8 in preparation for the plow (another post). I have seen posts previously asking how to do this, so I decided to document the process: FIRST loosen up the mule drive, note to loosen you turn the knob clockwise SECOND remove the belt from the mower center pulley, this works best with the mower lowered. THIRD raise the deck and unhook the attach-a-matic holding the deck to the center hitch by pressing in the button and sliding the release lever over. Once unhooked, lower the deck slowly to remove the rod from the hitch. FOURTH Remove the front mule drive same as the center hitch ***CAREFUL*** as the mule drive will drop down, keep hands clear. FIFTH remove the pin holding the PTO engagement lever to the PTO spindle, then remove the rod and remove the belt. SIXTH slide the mower deck from under the tractor by first sliding the deck until the lift pin drops, then raise the lift lever and remove the deck the rest of the way and you're done!!!