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Found a couple NIIIICE receiver hitches when I got home. @76c12091520h Thanks Brian!!

WHAT KNOCKERS!!!!! And now we've hijacked a thread. My apologies!

It's pronounced "Fronkensteen"

“I can fix that hump”. “What hump?” sorry, I can never resist a reference to Young Frankenstein😂

Of the 23,326 posts on this thread it is my estimation that at least 2,333 have been and I probably did a couple hundred of them.

It’s kinda like we’re Abby Normal

National Librarian Day on April 16 is a chance to be thankful for all the knowledge that librarians possess. You may think of them as book-slingers who spend all day cataloging and reshelving, but librarians play a much more important role. From children’s storytime to literacy classes, libraries offer a wealth of free public resources. Trained in Library Science, professional librarians work with complex cataloging systems to organize books, make purchasing decisions for their library, liaise with local schools and universities, organize events and programming, teach classes, and more. Their role is constantly evolving to adapt to new technology and social needs. Celebrate National Librarian Day with us and say thanks to the awesome librarians that are always on hand to help.

Back around 15 or 17 years ago I set out on a mission of sorts to read every single one of Louis L'amour's printed works. My local librarian in Cornish Maine was instrumental in making that happen. Interlibrary Loan System. Cheryl took the time and energy to go through the list with me well over a hundred Publications to see which ones I needed and how to find them. She was requesting books from all around the country for me.

Got most of the new beam made and in just got to add one piece to each side to make it 6 wide. Its made out of 2x10's that I pulled off the floor in the barn and it's 35' long.

Mrs. K reminded me to decorate my egg for the Easter egg contest. This is an annual event and my Wheel Horse egg didn't finish in the top ten last year. We have 20+ entries. We now only get brown eggs from our Amish neighbor. So I decided to use the brown egg and appeal to the taste buds of the younger crowd in hopes of garnering a few more votes this year. I'll report back with the winner of the jar of M & Ms.

In your neck of the woods, where rocks and soil are in nearly equal proportions, I’d strongly consider initially going over the ground with a ripper (numerous, successively deeper passes down to 12” in a criss-cross) or even with a backhoe just moving dirt around to loosen the soil and start to persuade rocks to be removable. Then decide where you will be building the stone wall with all the rocks you’ll be removing. Then spend many hours moving already-exposed rocks from the to-be-tilled area to said stone wall site. After that, pick up at @Gasaholic’s thread with "Then when you start tilling, ..."

Breaking hard ground (as in fallow fields grass covered) you're going to find tons or rocks & stones. If the intent is for a garden, the best bet is to strip off the sod layer (about 2 inches give or take) first - that'll be the toughest to break through - (Sod cutter, front loader, bulldozer, or a steel bottom plow, or good old hard manual labor with a shovel) down to bare raw dirt. Then when you start tilling, try to set a depth control (if equipped) to around 2 or 3 inches at a time, you'll need many passes to get down to a good 6 to 8 inch tilled depth. In previously tilled soil that has not had a chance for grass to build up that thick root system (the sod layer) where it has been previously tilled and cleared of rocks, you can often get a full tilled depth in just one or two passes. Be aware of rocks (large rocks can tangle in and break tines and jam up) and every single year that I till my garden (even after 4 years) I am still finding big rocks, although they get smaller and smaller as the years go by and rocks are picked out. You'll probably need a shovel and/or long pry bar for the biggest rocks (even a 6 inch rock can be a real pain to dig out, and tiller tines will just skip up and over it until it gets loosened and dug out, if the tines don't jam up or break on them, hence the 2 inch at a time tilling depth guideline) I do my tilling with a Troy-Bilt Horse model (from the 1970's - almost as old as I am) , a tractor mounted tiller just makes it easier due to width and you're sitting in the tractor instead of walking behind. In short, be prepared for a lot of hard back-breaking labor , even with a tiller, breaking virgin hard grass-covered ground (as in Back Yard) ain't gonna be easy. This year we're gonna set up a bunch of raised beds (24 inch deep) in addition to the big garden (which I'll be breaking ground with the Farmall Cub and singe bottom plow followed by disc harrow before tilling) Main reason for Raised beds is we're gettin' too old to be bent over or kneeling in gardens plus we are going to fence it in to keep the ^%$&^%# Deer out of there. (they don't bother the tater's , garlic, dill, etc that we grow in the big garden)

The "hump" that you'll hear about is pictured below. So drain from the bottom but also raise the nose of the tractor as far as you can. That will help everything drain from the bottom so you don't have to flush multiple times.

Yes sir absolutely. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 130 books Most were westerns because that's how he made his money. That's what sold. But what he really enjoyed was adventure stories and also crime dramas. In fact we found one book that was not listed on the website set up by his estate. It was on a list someone else had put together that was on bookmarks at the time. Sitka.

Having Verizon pays off for me…calling texting etc is all do-able and has been for a few years. For the low fee of $5 each I’ll send a text to anyone’s wife saying “Insert name here is gonna be late coming home from the Big Wheel Horse Show!”

Hi @oliver2-44 @Ed Kennell @kpinncI drained it only from the side plug. I jacked up the opposite side rear to tilt it and get as much out as I could. I didn’t realize that there was another plug underneath. I’ll do that today. I had also intended to do the diesel flush, so I’ll do both now! Thanks again and much appreciated!

I. .... >> MIGHT << know where you can find one.

Started fab work on a belt brake... used Dan's recipe. Belt jumps right off if clutch depressed all the way, so I'll need something for that as well... thinking idler and / or guides on the belt guards...

Unless you put the tiller on the front.

Ya got that back hoe. Rip it up and hoe out the rocks. Seat time!

I don't understand... simple formula: BBT + hand shovel = Tiller But if that isn't an option, I think @Handy Don hit it on the head...

Really? Happens so rarely here. 🙄 😅

Years ago my wife bought herself a gen u ine Troy Bilt tiller. It was hilarious watching her try to till unbroken ground. I had had a hard time getting it into her head when the tiller caught a hard spot or a rock just let go of the handles. No she hung on and was practically dragged across the yard!

Kevin may have a HOT DEAL on his tent stove PJs.

Looks right to me. It appears to be a 9 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. Some Wisconsin engines were used on Country Squires and they would have the intake on the opposite side.

The other day I rubbed down this Charger with boiled linseed oil. No room in garage for it so it is left outside. Rain and snow today. Oil doing it's job.

Ed Kennell 40,378 Replied: April 3 If your transmission shows any sign of water (a tan milky look) or dark thick oil, you should definitely flush it with kerosene or diesel. Raise the front of the tractor as high as safely possible when draining to get the oil over the center hump to the drain hole. 1. Drain the old oil 2. Fill with kero or diesel 3. If it is running, drive it slowly in tight figure 8s using all forward and reverse gears. If it is not running, jack up one wheel and rotate that wheel by hand both directions while using all the gears. Repeat this with the other wheel raised. The goal is to rotate and wash all the gears and bearings. 4. Raise the front and drain the kero. If it is really black and dirty, I would repeat steps 2. and 3. till the kero comes out clean. 5. Then I like to fill with cheap low viscosity motor oil and repeat step 3. 6. Drain the light oil and fill with 90 wt rear oil. BTW, I save the drained kero for washing parts. And the drained motor oil for rubbing down to preserve the patina on the tins. While each wheel is jacked up, this is a good time to check the axle bearings for movement. There should be no up/down or front/back movement. In and out movement is normal up to about 1/16". The axle seals may leak some of the thin kero.,but should stop with the 90wt oil. If the bearings check OK and the axle seals do leak oil, the seals can easily be replaced.

Did you drain from the plug on the bottom? The side plug leaves about 1.5 quarts of old oil still in the case. You should drain at the 1/4 Allen plug on the bottom of the case.

My grass is greening again and I need to get my beloved Wheelhorse Classic Toro 312-8 in shape for the mowing season. With Forum advice, and a neighbor’s help, I replaced my starter. Thanks again. Now I must do as big of a Spring tune-up as an unskilled and inexperienced beginner should do. So I need advice and guidance again from the Forum. Oil change? New filters? New blades? What else? Any and all suggestions are welcome! Thanks

Went with solid 10" utility tires, 5/8 bearings, i had planned to use some 5/8 to 1/2 sleeves to make them fit but it became apparent that the factory axles had been modified and were way shorter than they should have been. So, i took some 5" 1/2 carriage bolts, cut off thr old pins, welded on the carriage bolts, measured my sleeves out so they were just a hair longer than the bearing spread, tacked them to the carriage bolts, slid the wheels on and cranked down some serrated flange nuts.

This handy chart should help.

Have you measure the bore diameter for ovalness? What does the crank pin look like and measure? I recall @Achto has homed some quite a bit and put 0.010 over rings in. It's not a perfect solution, but for a show cruiser it might be worth taking a little risk. I'll be in the wings watching closely as I have a k161 that needs some love for a project.

As a minmum: 1. change engine oil and air filter. 2. Use a grease gun on every fitting- tractor and deck. 3. Verify tranny oil is clean and full. 4. Sharpen deck blades. Everything else falls under what I call an "OSI". That stands for obvious um, stuff inspection...

Hey fellow members. Once again I am bringing up this subject since there appears to be a lot of members attending the show for the first time. Being able to communicate at the show is important. But cellphone coverage is always a problem unless you have Verizon. This is a picture of the fairgrounds. AT&T and others have spotty coverage in the area highlighted in RED. All other areas is zilch. Yellow area is Verizon. Just wanted newbies to be aware.

8-10” deep with a ripper is about 2” further than a tiller will dig. Golden!

The factory setup for a mower was a somewhat cumbersome arrangement with a cam that kept the belt tight . You would be better off adapting a mule drive to the front. @Ed Kennell probably has all the parts and pieces you would need. The IPL below shows the parts, the highlighted ones are the major players.

Rylee likes this pipe idea. Not having any plans for which machine will go to the Big Show, I was thinking it would be wise to maybe do some work on it when my time allows, and she can help when she’s available.

Also. 875 is a short frame.

That oil looks very milky which means it has water in it. You might want to flush the transmission with diesel or kerosene to clean it out. There is a hump in the middle of the bottom of the transmission. Lift the front end to drain it completely from the bottom plug.

There are people on this forum that can help you get it going, even though its not a Wheel Horse. I suggest you start a thread in the "Other brands " section. Ask lots of questions and provide pictures to help people guide you. Step 1 give it a bath, 2. Start soaking everything, every nut, bolt, pin, fitting, with penetrant every day for a week++ before you ever turn a wrench. 3. Bag and label anything you take apart in zip lock bags. https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/003/8/4/3842-economy-country-squire.html Mission Manufacturing owns the rights to Power King. Many parts should cross to your Country Squire. https://powerkingtractor.com/ T92 Transmission Parts, Olympic Gear Products https://www.facebook.com/OlympicGearProductsInc/ https://www.facebook.com/OlympicGearProductsInc/posts/dale-from-west-virginia-called-in-for-some-parts-for-his-1958-country-squire-tra/888368051273404/ Briggs and Stratton https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/23A_23A-B_23A-FB_23A-R6_23A-R6D_27760-domestic.pdf https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/antique-engine-specifications.html Just in case it has a Wisconsin engine, which I suspect might be a Model AHH https://www.wisconsinmotorscanada.ca/wspecsoldmodels.html Wisconsin parts https://www.pittauto.com/default.aspx?page=customer&file=customer/piauel/customerpages/pl_wisconsin.htm Wisconsin Manual AHH https://www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel/pdf/Wisconsin_afh_agh_ahh.pdf

Put @ebinmaine's tie rods on the WHAMMC3PO_ Thanks Eric! crappy pic sorry...

Spent some time on the C85 today… - replaced the transmission drive belt - took the right rear tire off to tighten up the loose trans pully. The lug bolts came off kind of tough, so I wire wheeled the lugs and re-tapped the hub lug holes - installed new tie rods from Brian - drained the transmission gear oil, now need to replace the filler tube I broke - adjusted the brakes, which I had put on new brake liners from Bob months back - installed a new shifter boot

Or a front mounted receiver hitch,

Or a 2 stage blower!

Like a Mackissic chipper.....

Yes the best hood setup Wheel Horse made and unlike most innovations over the years they did not keep this good idea!

Believe or not that isn't super convenient for the area. There's a fence on 3 sides and also set up/ takedown/move multiple times. Definitely easier to use a machine in a linear motion.

@Monstrosity runs a tiller with his hydro. He twisted the belt to run the tiller backerds’. That’s an option too. Otherwise, slow and steady. Maybe even limit your down stroke if need be. Bust up that sod, then go deeper. You can mow super low too before starting if needed.