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Sleep escapes many people throughout the night so if you need a little shut-eye today, even while in public, it’s totally fine because it’s National Public Sleeping Day, on February 28. Yes, if you feel like you’re going to nod off on that park bench or at the beach, no one will think poorly of you. It’s actually what we are all called to do today, so grab a pillow and be prepared for that magical moment when you can doze off in public. While no one has claimed to be the founder of National Public Sleeping Day, whoever it was, was clearly onto something. Maybe they had seen so many of their fellow Americans asleep in public, they felt we all needed to be given a free pass for just one day. If you take a few moments to think of all the times you’ve fallen asleep in public, you’ll realize it is not at all a rare occurrence! The key for today is preparation. If you want to be an overt public sleeper, a sleeping bag will get the job done. If you are still a little uncomfortable about sleeping in public, you’ll want some sunglasses, a hat, or a newspaper. Of course, you can always point to this article as your permission to indulge in some public sleeping but in the event that you are at work and your boss walks in while your head is down, let the first word you say be “Amen.”

Hard to believe a week ago the temps were below freezing. Highs in the 50s this week thawed the ground enough to start plowing today.

Many of you have seen the wooden horse and received a smaller version. After 10 years of weather, mine needed major repair. The wood was starting to delaminate and nearly all the black lettering and paint had disappeared. The red was still OK. After some regluing and painting, it's back in the wall.

Mom and I made a trip from south Missouri to north Missouri-more than 6 hours of driving for me. We delivered the 500 lbs of fescue grass seed we will be sowing once the water ways are completed. We, along with my brother, burned a brush pile and began tearing out some fencing that is not needed. We talked with an adjoining neighbor about the abandoned rail road right of way that I have written about elsewhere. I think the highlight for mom was to get to see the recently purchased (2014-100 hp) Kubota tractor. Mom even got to drive it. Not too bad when you consider this 89 years old woman was in the hospital and nursing home rehab three months a little over a year ago following a botched biopsy.

Put a electric lift on my 1056. I only use this tractor for plowing so no idea if it would clear with a deck. Made a bracket that bolts to the frame/transaxle and the other end bolts right to the lower part of the rockshaft. Wired it up and it works great! its a bit slower than I would like says its 14mm/sec but still a reasonable speed. The cylinder can lift 265lbs and has no problem lifting my 48'' blade.

You southern folk!!

As you know I picked up that Bolens at an estate sale few weeks ago for 50 bucks. Got it running and have sold it. At the sale there was also a International Harvester Cub Cadet 109 for sale that I did not buy as the asking price was more then I was willing to spend. The lady running the sale called me the other day to tell me the Cub did not sell and asked if I was interested in it. Cub was in the barn. She said it wouldn't start. I bought the Bolens not starting and it was outside. So we worked out a deal and I went to pick it up today. Got it pretty cheap but not as cheap as I got the Bolens. The Cub had a deck attached and also a second one that appears to be solid but incomplete. It also came with the owners manual and a very nice Service Manual in a 3 ring binder. So I use my Snowco trailer for the second time now and get it home. Seems to be in ok shape. I notice some issues right away but a put some gas in it, charged the battery. Turned the key and it's purring like a kitten. Fired right up. I see some things I need to address but mostly issues with the deck and how the deck carriage locks into place. That being said it's running and driving. Saved from being scraped. Couple years back I had the 108 model. The 109 is same only it's hydro driven. These old IH Cubs are built like tanks. Hopefully find a new home for it soon. Let me know if anyone has had or have one. Noticed it didn't have headlights, were they an option ? This one has the cigarette lighter that still works. First pick is it in the barn. I thought because of all the green grass clippings all over it that it must have been running recently. 20250227_132803.mp4

Had a flock of about 30 robins out in the yard.

The original 502 with a plow!!

Bring it on! Great here in Indiana too! ut I had a good sunset onTuesday leaving Florida! B

@Ed Kennell 10% off coupon this weekend at HF... I was there earlier today and saw big stacks of their red buckets... Cuz... Your gonna need a bigger bucket...

The robotics team programmer was building the automatic climb program for the robot. After getting the operation sequence we needed figured out, he got position encoder readings that he needed for all of the devices involved and finished his code. Part of the code is setting a latch to make sure the robot ends up in the climb position at the end of the climb. The climber storage position is past where the latch is needed to hold the robot in the up position, so the latch needs to be set after the climber is extended out to the pick up position. Anyhow, the programmer tested the program - except he forgot to put the latch in the clear position to allow the climber to rotate out into the pick up position. the motors started up, the climber moved, the latch engaged stopping the climber, but the motors kept running until a 'pop' sounded off and the climber arm fell back into its storage position. Here is a picture of what made the 'pop': That twisted piece between the gears is a piece of 6061 T6 hex aluminum shafting. The space between the gears is about 1/2". The shaft twisted about 60 degrees before shearing into 2 pieces. We are running this thing on two Talon 60 brushless motors that are a little smaller than fist size. Overall gear reduction between the motors and the climb are is 198:1. The gearbox has 5 stages 5:1, 3 stages of 3:1, then a final chain drive of 1.4:1. The shaft that twisted apart was on the 2nd 3:1 stage. This stage has the last aluminum shaft. The next 2 stages are using 1/2" hex steel shafts. Guess you could say that the climber has been pre-disastered. The repair did not take very long, and we are now working on our list of spares that we should take to our competitions. We are planning on taking a spare climber gear box, but now we are going to throw a couple of extra shafts in. I'll have to suggest to the climber team and programmer that we install some sort of switch to tell us where the latch is, and not let the climber run if the latch is in the wrong spot at the wrong time. One of the students commented that we should replace that shaft with a steel one. I quickly pointed out that the aluminum shaft that failed acted like a mechanical fuse and prevented further damage, so replace it with another aluminum shaft.

Well I got this far today. I'll finish up in the next day or two. So far so good.

This just in... ! First time in RS history - an @ebinmaine thread has gone off topic!!!!

Went to an auction today and saved a ton of abandoned horse parts that would have gone to scrap. I need only about 2% of these and all the rest is for sale. Anyone want all f it make an offer.

I’d start by soaking the trunnion and the threaded rod so you can adjust it. If you have a torch to heat it, even better.

Tomorrow I'm planning on working outside all day. Sunday looks like dodging rain drops.

Just watched the weather. We might get 4-5" then hit the 50's

Ok gentleman, we have pretty blue spark now! 😃 I don't know what was on those point contacts but it took some cleaning with crocus cloth to get them to work! Never had to go that far in past experiences. One choke and she fired up and idled like champ. Shout out to Brian of K & B Wheel Horse Parts for building me a great lil Carter! And thanks to all who chimed in with help throughout! Now just awaiting my steering pins to tighten up the steering a bit. Wheeeeeeew...

Yep, I've been wearing Levi's, almost exclusively, for a good 50 years. One thing the are LOUSY for is detailing vehicles. The very rivets that they are famous for do not mix well with vehicle finishes.

200w.webp

That shifter hole is more than enough. An average mouse only needs a dime sized entrance.

The 782 is the only IH built one, the other two are MTD built. The 782 actually has international harvester on the tag while the other two are just Cub Cadet.

@Achto ??? I would say no just get it started strait and plenty of cutting oil.

The Junky got another FIX today. And the addiction grows. New Gravely split wheels and solid tires Electric PTO clutch Solenoids and voltage regs. Tecumseh, Clinton parts Wheel bearings and bushings

They swap out easy. Along with the top of the hoodstand, you will also need the corresponding hinges. I have a blackhood on a 520 and a c81 hood on a 312. The only oddity was the 520 because the hoodstand is different, but I just added the "mid" section from a spare hoodstand.

@johnnymag3I think Mike nailed it. It was similar to running out of fuel but different. I ordered the new coil from Kentucky and it made it to Indy quickly.....................9 days ago. Another non-related package was being held hostage too but it was released 2 days ago the usual trip to South Bend and then here today. I'll have to talk to my negotiator about that. I'd rather they would have released the coil. Moving Through Network In Transit to Next Facility, Arriving Late February 23, 2025 Arrived at USPS Regional Destination Facility INDIANAPOLIS IN DISTRIBUTION CENTER February 19, 2025, 3:26 pm

My ..... The part you mentioned when taking the seat is this - "I used the CHOKE to keep it running" ....is throwing me a curveball..... A failing coil doesn't care if you are choking the carb to get fuel. Another curveball is ...why would the Valve care if you are CHOKING the engine??? Isn't that a mechanical type issue ?? My money is on COIL ,but I'm still confused how using the choke is keeping it running if the COIL is on its way out..... I will be following to know the end result....

That one was an empty 3 speed case that I had saved for whatever reason. No gears or axles. Plenty of holes to get into. Axles and brake shafts are 1 inch ID.

If this is only a one time deal, you could buy threaded rod from places like Bolt Depot. 1 Three foot rod would be 15 bucks.

Well one Eric, that's a brilliant effort my friend. So pleased you have found a way that is working for you. Mick

I’m, late to the party, but never too late to wish you a great one

I've pretty much ruled out it being a valve issue. The exhaust valve is thicker and just don't see the smaller valve spec'd for the 14 even coming close to working. One of my first thoughts was that a 16hp block slipped in there but the head bolt count said no to that. I never checked the dims on the od of the valve seat though. I'm no engine guru but I'm still saying the coil. If the issue still persists after I get through my list I'll just get the tools. The compressor, leak down tester, etc.

I'm almost afraid to ask what method of eradication was used...

23 hour fast today. 9.1 lbs removed.

So, no scope needed for deer season heh?

I use mine quite often. When I had my cataracts removed, I paid the extra 3K to have the new lens with the 0.001" hash marks installed. Calibrated eyeballs are the bomb.

This procedure is for the valves installed in 300, 400, and 500 series. May be others as well. This valve is from a 520HC Here is the valve ready for new O rings. You know the O rings are worn because it had a leak and the control rod is very easy to turn. Getting ready to remove the screw retaining the rod. Screw in end of rod removed. Rod pulled out. It came out really easy since the O rings offer no resistance because they are worn out. O rings removed using a brass pick to prevent damage to the rod. You can use any tool, just be careful not to scratch the shaft. New #111 Nitrile O rings ready to install (Viton would be better but Nitrile is what I have on hand). I also used 111 O ring lubricant which is basically silicone grease. O rings installed. O rings lubed with the 111 O ring lubricant. Rod inserted into valve body. This will take a bit of a push with the new O rings Screw installed into end of control rod. Valve is now complete and should no longer leak. I did not touch the pressure relief cap as I have never had one leak from there and don't want to mess with the relief setting.

Since the goal is to keep the die face perpendicular to the rod, I’d consider clamping something with a true and perpendicular ¾” ID hole to the die as an additional stabilizer/guide to help keep it aligned. Slipping it over the rod ahead of the die. A collar or coupler, for example? Forgot to mention the standard die motion--forward to cut and then back to break off and clear cut off material Also, realize that it takes a LOT of force to cut threads like that so the die carrier has to be quite sturdy and expect the rod to want to twist.

I just completed a TWENTY FOUR hour fast. Time for a small bit of fish and green beans. 😀

I salvaged the 6v Emergency lights in my building when they were all replaced due to leaking batteries. The bulbs actually fit in the Wheel Horse housings. The bulbs must have lasted forever as I never got a complaint from a buyer of a tractor I flipped that the lights were dim when he replaced a bulb.

Hospitals must harbor plenty of ghosts--patients, doctors, nurses, administrators, and facility maintenance folk!

I don't think that will matter to much seeing that box full of bulbs he has.

272.6 - 265.4 = 7.2 lbs down.

You've replaced everything in the fuel system. The symptom has not changed at all. This tells me it isn't fuel. A rich mixture will fire easier than a lean one. Hence the recovery when choking.

In the past 35+ years I have gone through the WH 12hp step program twice only to fall off the wagon both times. The wife and I have both decided just to live with it.

I have never opened mine up. From the parts manual looks like there are two different ones used. #18 in the diagram WH# 973310 I know for sure is Dash #905 (O rings are described by Dash #) and must be an SAE ORB #5 fitting. I would hazard a guess that if the fittings using #13 WH #973370 are bigger than the above that they would turn out to be Dash #906 as they are SAE ORB #6 fittings What size wrench fits on each of the two different fittings? If it ever stops raining I will go down amd look at my D200. Edit: 973370 is definitely an ORB#6 and will use a Dash# 906 O ring Orb 5 (I/2 20 tpi)use 5/8" wrench Orb #6 (9/16 18tpi) use 11/16.

Do you have the original pans? If they are the steel ones, you can get new covers and reupholster them. I don't think there are any new ones that are going to look like stock.

Stephen, I sent you a PM, but am reposting here. I hadn't seen this thread until after our conversation. Hopefully this doesn't start a war... GO! D250's are a strange breed. They were Wheel Horse's Edsel and were a true international effort. American specs, German design, French engine, Italian steering gearbox.... They were extremely advanced for their time, but were sales flops. In 1976 1000 units were imported and sold over the next two years. 1978 brought in another 500 of a revised model, then 1979 brought another 500 of the improved version. WH listed them in the product listings into the early 1980's, so they weren't flying off the shelf. They even began to promote special credit terms, freebies, and rental store sales to move them. Anyway, the 1976 model is distinguished by its generator (as opposed to an alternator), single action hydraulics, and weaker transaxle. The 1978/79's had dual action hydraulics with 4 couplers on the front under the grille, an alternator, and a slightly revised transaxle mounting and linkage that greatly improved reliability. The dashboard on the 78/79's was also revised and improved and the engagement for the PTO moved from a foot pedal to a lever. The three point hitch on the 76's was not fitted with spherical bearing "eyes" on the draft links. Instead the lower hitch arms were just punched to accept the pins from the implement. Later model hitches had the eyes that were standard on every other three point hitch ever made... The 1976's in particular were plagued with self-destructing transaxles...especially when used for tilling or heavy ground work like plowing or loading. I don't reacall the entire set of peculiars, but the general explanation is that poor lubricant or low levels combined with excessive load caused the internal axle bushings to wear. The axle/differential would sag or move around a little bit and the worm gear teeth wouldn't mesh properly. Catastrophic failure would then result since the worm gear was made (as are most worm gears) of relatively soft bronze. The teeth would shear and the whole tranaxle would fail. Warranty replacements were apparently a huge cost for WH and Gutbrod. A real nightmare according to guys who were there at the time. In 1978 the revisions were slight - and again I don't remember everything - but the improvement was significant. I think the linkage was improved to make shifting more positive and engaged the gearing better. But the bottom end benefitted by a revised mounting angle of the transaxle housing to the frame that caused loads to be transferred internally differently. So the trans was much more durable. But still, if used too heavily they too were prone to letting go. One of the really critical things about their problems was the location of the oil fill plug in the transaxle housing. Going from memory, I think it's on the right hand side of the transaxle behind the right rear tire. To check the fluid, you almost have to remove the wheel. To fill the fluid, you might as well tip the tractor on its side since the framerail immediately above the check/fill port basically blocks access to the thing. So, many people neglected to check and maintain the transaxle. Coupled with the marginal design and high precision...you get the idea. Would I mow with one? Yep. Just be very anal about transaxle maintenance. Would I plow/blade with one? No. Would I run a tiller? No. Loader? No way! Apparently the tiller, which is pretty hard to find anyway, really was rough on these things. I'm not sure mechanically why, but I guess the constant pushing and pounding was hard on the axle and exacerbated the problems. In the old days before Redsquare, it wasn't uncommon to find random internet posts about blown D250 rears on tiller-equipped tractors. Really, the D250 was a precesion engineered piece of equipment. Unfortunately it was introduced into a market and dealer network that lacked the finesse required to keep 'em going and didn't even have the metric tools needed to work on them. The combinations of the machine's fussiness and bad maintenance and abuse probably did most of them in. I'm under the impression that dealers hated them. And man were they expensive. Like $5k in 1976. Charlie (Charlies D250) used his D250 extensively and even ran it in tractor pulls (I think). I know he complete disassembled and rebuilt his prior to any of this, so perhaps his was in perfect tune, a good one, or he was just lucky. Maybe he made some mods. Anyway, he ought to be on your contact list. Now, I really like the Edsels. They are very smooth running, quiet, and extremely powerful. The Renault engine used was rated at 19.9 hp, but the same engine configuration in other applications (Groundsmasters, forklifts, etc) cranked out 35+ hp. Same carb, timing, governor, etc. So the 19.9 hp rating was probably just a lie to get around the regulations that required seatbelts and ROPS. The 60" deck from the JD 400 used on these tractors mows beautifully and pumps a tremendous amount of air. The original intent was for the D250 to be an "estate" tractor. All it was supposed to do was mow and clear snow. But the size and power meant the desire to use it heavily was too great. So they got used as compact utility tractors. Fuel pumps on the engines tend to go bad over time as any mechanical/camshaft driven pump is apt to do. The Renault replacement is (or was last time I cared to look) hard to find and expensive, so replace it with an electric one if it dies. Other than occasionally on ebay, I've never seen a rebuild kit for the Solex carburator. Points, cap, and rotor are hard to find but I think Charlie has a source. By the way, I think one of the spark plugs cannot be taken out without removing the distributor...if I remember correctly. The ignition switch on the 76's is goofy with a really special key...push the key in to enable the ignition. Pull it out to shut it off. Rotate it one click for parking lights. A second click for headlights. I think the 78's have a more conventional switch. Waterpumps aren't a bad quality or bad design, but at this age they often go bad. I've been seeing them periodically on ebay, so somebody must have found a source. If you see one, buy it. The front/mid PTO shaft also serves double duty as the front axle pivot. Bearings here often get sloppy. Duane Baerpath knows how to replace them and I thought posted a source on here at one point. What else.... That's about the whole brain dump for now. If you want to rely on one for a weekly chore tractor I think you need to prepare yourself to be patient and creative. These aren't supported by WH anymore, so parts aren't really available. Engine parts can probably be found since Continental picked up the Renault industrial line a while back. But transmission stuff is extinct. Deere probably still has deck parts. The only differences between a 400 deck and a 250 deck are the hangers. Everything else is carryover from the Deere. I still have a 76 Edsel that I'm not sure what I'm going to do with. I wouldn't buy another 76. A 78/79, definately. Just a better tractor all the way around. I see that the one you're considering is a newer one. Go for it. If it doesn't work out then it will probably be an easy resell. End of sermon, Steve