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Whether you’re a seasoned scientist who doesn’t mind getting your hands dirty or the thought of math and dissection makes you blanch, on Darwin Day on February 12 we celebrate Charles Darwin’s work and science in general. Take the extra time to learn about his experiments, findings, and accomplishments, and reflect on how they still affect us today. The discovery of evolutionary creation has led scientists across multiple fields to make life-altering and life-saving discoveries about our species and how we originated. There’s a lot to be grateful about for Darwin and his research! On what would later become Darwin Day, future naturalist Charles Darwin is born to a wealthy family of high society doctors, February 12, 1809. After serving as an apprentice doctor with his father, young Charles Darwin heads off to Edinburgh Medical School. When medical school doesn’t work out, Darwin is sent to Christ’s College, Cambridge, to become an Anglican parson in 1828. Theology was also unin On December 27, 1831 Darwin, aboard the HMS Beagle as a naturalist, traveled with the crew for five years, constantly documenting natural life and zoology throughout. Published in 1859 was Darwin’s groundbreaking 500+ page book, “On the Origin of Species,” which lays his theory of human evolution, was released and gained unexpected clamor and popularity. The Darwin Awards originated in 1985 as posts on Usenet group discussions. One early post described the rhetorical tongue-in-cheek honor awards as being given to people who "made the supreme sacrifice to keep their genes out of our pool ensuring the survival of the species."

AKA " @Pullstart Day" in Michigan and certain parts of Wisconsin...

I take gas line hose, cut it to length and then split it down the center. It holds in place and does a great job of dampening the rattle.

Most likely a shortage of Band-Aids there today......

I’ll do @SylvanLakeWH a favor and for him

All the legal mumbo-jumbo is over my comprehension level. But are you saying you could potentially buy 8 acres for $7500 plus some other fees? Seems like a great deal unless I don’t understand something.

You need any good reference pictures (other than cable steer stuff) I’ll climb the ladder, walk the plank, whatever you need cap’m!

Stopped by the Marble Falls Crisis Network Thrift Store (The Warehouse). This stop is part of a normal trip to town. Picked up two brand new 23 x 10.5 x 12 HighRun Turf tires $40. They still have all the nubbies on them. Took a picture of these bunk beds and sent it to my sons. Grandma intercepted and said she wanted them for the grandkids room at our house. So instead of mounting tires I hauled, disassembled and reassembled furniture.

Most of the parts have been paid for. My time has not. This is Mrs. P’s widowed aunt’s car and she has been driving Grandma’s (who has dementia and cannot drive) in the meantime. I’m glad the car can be gone now, and I can get onto another to-do.

Thanks... Hard to keep up with them cheese guys...

my career included dealing with the "abandoned" RR issues you outlined multiple times - in very complex circumstances and transactions - and large sums of dollars, as well as negotiated acquisitions and eminent domain proceedings. I am not a lawyer, therefore don't take what insights I provide as legal advice. First, its important to know the controlling laws can likely vary state to state - as well as by locality. Secondly, the policies and governance by the railroad corporations and their successors likely vary. Moreover, there can potentially be some jurisdictional issues involving federal transportation entities/agencies oversight of old or abandoned railroad corridors and property of which typically local officials or a local attorney would not likely know how to navigate or have the necessary expertise. I believe there should in fact be a record of the deed and/or the right of way in the county land records - it may be challenging to locate and may go back many years - as well as have changed ownership entities numerous times, however, I believe the legal owner ( or ROW ) should be able to be traced. You have the option of asking the County Clerk or Recorder to do the research however title searches are typically paid for professional services of which you hire a lawyer ( or better ) hire a title company who has this " title " research as a specialty. Once you identify the owner entity then of course it's a negotiation like any land transfer. Frankly, I would not suggest any land "deal " be done without legal guidance representing your interests. The fact is you won't live forever and if you or a neighbor wants a "clean title or ROW rights of access" that is documented and publicly recorded for future family generations, you don't want a disputed future "cloud" over the title - especially after you've paid $$ . Regarding your question - -"is it worth it" -- only you can answer that ????????? Good luck, Bill

Not around my neck of the woods. The state park dept would ave snapped that up for a rail trail as soon as the first tax payment was a day late.

It has been very cold since New year and the snow doesn't go away so most of what I plow is now packed snow/ice for a base. Adding some weight to the front helps the roller chain work better. The bigger plow wants to push the front end around. Weights and chains are your friend.

I know the Baird Beaver predated the Wheel Horse and used a rubber friction wheel for reversing. Could be someone replaced the Wheel Horse one.

I've been a professional mechanic for 19 years. I didn't know it was possible to work on a car for 45 minutes and not bleed.

Lots of great comments and suggestions. It seems that this process is much more complicated than I would have imagined. One reason we are interested in the land is because all of the overgrowth is affecting our property. In the last 60 years, the railroad property has grown up in trees--trees that lean over onto our land thus we cannot get our farming equipment within 36 feet of the property line fence. (We've got pictures but I don't have them with me.) Currently we have a man hired with a skid steer with grinder attachment that is grinding the brush and small trees on our side of the fence but the large trees hanging over our land still won't let us get tractors and combines up closer to the fence. When dad was alive, he mowed inside our fence--that's not possible now. At leas once a year, my brother who manages the farm has to gather up branches out of our crop fields. A neighbor suggested to hire a track hoe to run down the fence line and literally strip the limbs and branches overhanging our land. This would provide relief for a period of time. If we had control of the right of way, we'd likely push the trees over towards the middle of the right of way. Saga continues and we are in early stages of what appears to be a long process

From what I can see, the picture is correct. The slotted piece locks the rod in place.

I put the piece of pipe there so it would match the other side I did this to the other wheel horses I think it looks better this way

I must say, the Chevy Traverse 3.6L timing chain setup is among the worst designs I’ve worked on. This was kind of a long term project, mainly because I knew I wouldn’t get paid for quite some time. It’s been in the shop since April of last year. I’ve worked on it when I had time available.

HEY!! I tell everyone I'm not as stupid as I look!

Might help you to try the above circular chains. Weight of course, always helps.

Good oil. Readily available, has zinc in it - good for flat tappet engines....

Well, It sure has been a while since doing much on the Horses. until the other night with my GT2500 Briggs 10HP. Previous geniouses decided to "work on" the governor & the had it all torn apart n couldnt finger out how to put it back together again.... I got it but there are thread inserts on the carb body so it will Not idle to save a life due to vaccuum leaks..... gonnaa bust out the drills n taps but time is short now with Impending Snowmagedon on the horizon here & it is bone chilling cold to make it even better oh yeah.... What was supposed to be a simple fix along with several other issues I have found puts this 1 in the back of the Line Now. Gonna drag Ol' Cyclops ( my C 145) into the garage & put the fuel pump, new ignition parts & fuel lines on it, Mount the Blade & use that Beast. I am also moving during this time so everything is really disorganized but still manageable. Anywho in looking through a Box todsay I found some really cool stuff. A few Years ago I bought this box full plus a pile (nearly as big as the box of small engine parts & service manuals. There's lots of Lawnboy but also several Briggs & Tecumseh Dealer Parts n service manuals, Kohler, 1 Wheel Horse brochure, a Walbro Carburator Manual.... just a ton of stuff I actually forgot I had So Now I really do have a Library to go with All my other Briggs, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, Honda, All kinds of Valuable gold treasures (to Moo-Wah anyway) as these written publications cant be beaten when we often find ourselves eyebrows deep in condensed by someone who doesn't Know there is a huge difference between what the interrnet says & what I have in my hands.... a very frustrating place to be at times. I found these posters of Briggs & Kohler Specs in with all that stuff today. Thought Maybe You guys might enjoy not just seeing it but feel free to Use it. I Love having all that info in 1 easy to navigate spot. For now it will just tbe the Kohler & Briggs Charts as these need to be flattened & sorta ironed out a bit better. Maybe I am puting this in the wrong place but from what I see, most of the Engine Forum Threads are very old So I figure I would put this here as it is a pretty lively topic & it does apply to what I am doing tonight with my C-145 14HP Kohler. Enjoy

Recip with a good blade, go right through

Same here especially in ice/slush. I steer to the side and the plow keeps going straight.

Erector set project?

Picked up a tractor tonight for @WHX?? What? You don't see it in my mirror? It's there, and in my back seat.

Toro is very proud of their chain - around/over 100 when restored mine 5 years ago - option two is tractor supply for a roll - I went with the roll bought a chain break was still 50-60 bucks ahead - should be 40 chain - 10 foot roll you'll have enough left for a spare

I've thought about that. I was figuring on joining the cross chains ⛓️ with fore n aft direction links... or possibly making a diamond ish pattern.

Finally felt well enough to work on it today. PTO was coming off come hell or high water. @Shynon says the reverse drive friction wheel was made out of brass and we wondered if early ones weren't made of rubber this one was. Finished taking the motor apart. and on the hunt for parts. Guy's gotta wonder if these were old school snowmobile bogie wheels & used by the Ponds. Sure do look like them.

That is surely a bummer! Washer fluid is rated and a lot of it sold around here for cheap is good only down to 0º F--you have to hunt a bit (and pay more) to get the stuff rated lower. I look for -35º. Also, the anti-freeze additive’s effectiveness does degrade over time--I check the date on the jug when buying to be sure I’m not getting old stock. A freeze in your car’s reservoir is as undesirable as a split tractor tire.

Some forward progress & 1 set back. First the forward progress. Got the body work done on the sheet metal. Paint stripped off the transmission, ready for a wash & some paint. Pulled the head off from the engine to see what was what. This was the set back. I was planning on just a paint over haul on this one but plans have changed. When I pulled the head I thought "Holy piston wash Batman". Well guess I'm doing an engine rebuild too. Given this fact the engine is now torn down and ready to go to the machinist as soon as the new parts get here. Crank measures out perfect, bore is not out of spec but finding the early small bore parts is not easy. So late model 2 15/16" bore will be in order. Took the time to blast all the engine parts as well. Wanting more forward movement I decided to squirt a little more paint. All I got for this weekend.

I took a gamble. I’m not normally one for cheap tools. So far, I have a feeling this’ll be worth having around the shop! Huge time saver and energy sipper. Especially, when I noticed my oxygen tank on my torch set is empty…

You'll have to cut @Pullstart a little slack, I watched a 45 minute video of Kevin and his daughter working on her SUV and there wasn't a drop of blood shed.

The MMC edge guard cushions the hood but doesn't squish out. Plus it lasts. I've had this chunk of it on my C-160 for over 10 years. It's pretty close to the factory edge guard Wh used. I've used it on square hoods, C series hoods and the Black Hoods. I think I sent some to @Sparky

Hydro SHOULD be 10w-30 motor oil...but look at the dipstick is it fluid red or tan. Tan is 10w-30 (red means some one used ATF) Manual will say 30w for engine. Since my D200 is lightly used but year around I use 15-40 Rotella

#1 is for a pond walk away 2 wheel tractor. The long tongue is for the second hole on the frame of tractor. Being a 8 inch plow it dates it to 1954-56. Before that it would have been a 7 inch plow.

Given the simplicity of the front hitch (just a 5/8 steel rod locks in nicely) and the flat bar needed for the weights- a front hitch setup is one of the easier things to fabricate. This is mine. I wish the weights were still available. I'd buy about 10 more for use on the back.

Recip saw would be the go to if the shaft was still in the tractor.

@cleat you'll be impressed with the difference it will make.

Nice work! Never noticed the grenade shifter handles. Pretty cool idea and obviously fitting of the rig! I like it! On a side note all these snow plowing pics are making me jealous. We have one more chance for some snow here in OK in a few days. Fingers crossed

Can you elaborate on this? Likely different from vegetables.

Installed the muffler stack today and a new shifter boot. Getting ready to sand blast the mower deck and paint it. I figured I would start with that before I work on the tractor tins. That way If it doesn't look good I won't care as much. Learning as I go. I still need to make a brace for muffler and may shorten how tall it goes. I had a piece of 8 inch so I used that for now.

Weekend update... Sand blasting reviled a little surprise on one of the fenders. Drilled holes at the end of the cracks in preparation for repair. After the repair. If you look at the top of the fender, you can see line where the seat was rubbing on it. Nothing worse than doing a resto on a round hood and then having the seat rub through your new paint job. To remedy this I make a lift kit to put under the seat. It's only 1/2" thick but that's all it takes to keep the seat off the fenders. The spacer I made for under the seat. The peg drops in one hole to keep it from spinning. At the end of the weekend I have everything that would fit in the blast cabinet cleaned up. It took almost as long to blast the rear rims as it took to blast all the other pieces combined. Note - only thing that would not fit was the frame. The gas tank and recoil starter would have fit in the blast cabinet but I chose to not blast them. Didn't want sand intrusion in either of them. Instead I chose to strip them with a DA sander. Even sprayed a little paint today, very little but it still counts. Would be nice to do some painting next weekend but I don't think that will be in the cards, as I have other engagements. Might still have time to get something done though.

Friday. I got the Input shaft, brake shaft and right axles seal gently pried out without to much trouble. I sanded and honed the shafts smooth and taped the keyways to protect the seals as I slid them on. I used the input pulley and rear hub as a slide hammer on those shafts to tap the new seals in. Used some 3/4 pvc to tap in the brake shaft seal. The input pulley has some heavy rust that turned into holes when I wire wheeled it clean. Thankfully I have a spare. I also wire wheeled cleaned the clutch idler and engine pulley. Got distracted and sanded the shifter balls to remove the oxidation. Then buffed them on a cloth polish when on my grinder with white roughe compound. At least something is shiny. Back to the steering wheel. I drilled the roll pin out with carbide masonry drill bits. Then I used a 3 jaw puller to pull the hub off the steering shaft. The heat broke it loose and it came off semi easy. I used a snap gage and micrometer to measure the cylinder bore top and bottom 4 places. I got 3.281 to 3.282 While my measurements aren’t perfect they tell me this cylinder was bored 0.030 thousands oversize. The top of the piston is not stamped oversize, but it seems some of the aftermarket ones are not stamped oversize

Got a new toy !! Now to find a 3-point hitch and a plow

thanks John -- appreciate the clarification -- to me it is a Clevis -- however, before i posted it i made many "searches" across many site platforms and lots of people and sites interchange the words "clevis" or "sleeve" or even marry the two words discription together -- there are even various commentary here on RSQ i found the words interchanged conversationally -- so in my case I was not attempting to be technically correct but rather to sell something that others might be entering search words or maybe have a buying interest -- therefore i intentionally posted both "names" in the title hoping a prospective buyer might trip over the post - thanks for the insight -- Bill