Leaderboard

While most of us know it as a french speciality, the croissant actually originated in Austria under the name “kipferls”. Marie Antoinette first introduced the Austrian pastry to France when she married into the royal family and requested the simple cake in the crescent shape of her homeland. The French bakers created fancier versions of “kipferls” and thus, the croissant was born. In France, the croissant has become more sophisticated, influenced by the cuisine style of its country. At it’s most basic level, it’s a frugal kind of breakfast pastry, made from pâte feuilletée (soft flour of flour, yeast, butter, milk and salt). On January 30, we annually recognize National Croissant Day, so channel your inner Parisian baker today and say “oui” to these buttery treats!

It was one of my more fun and easier being that there is no bodywork priming involved. Just smoothed up some of the old paint and hammered clear coat to it! A total of 9 coats on the tin work. Quick tune up on the k181 and found a broken flywheel too. All back together and running like a top! My youngest (4), named it and my oldest (7), wrote its name on the belt guard. Always fun getting them to help out!

Early bird gets the bolt ... Yes they are especially when one does a resto/refresh in stainless as @Achto and I have been known to do. Even with Dan's fringe benefits on fasteners from work it can easily add 100 to a project. My first resto, a 1067, I did it in all stainless allen heads. A leftover fetish from my HD bike building days. Don't tell her what I have in hardware for this one.

Called Summit Racing on Monday morning and received the correct Steering wheel yesterday, 2 days, not bad. Spoke with the first person who checked on my original order and she connected me with someone that actually gets it. I was impressed that he knew exactly what I was talking about and sent me the one I originally wanted. Yes @squonk you were correct about the picture of the wheel was not updated that caused the mix up. It now has 4 holes on the 3 spokes and has what they call foam but actually a hard surface. It is not installed yet but hoping for the best. Thanks to @ebinmaine also for the recommendation to call them back and see what they could do. Been dealing with them since the mid 70's and hated to give up on them.

I dropped my wife at the airport yesterday and rolled the C101 into her spot in the garage. I’ve got 6 day to work on it and a small Honey-do list. I had previously jumped the solenoid and coil to prove it would run for a few minutes. Smoked on startup but seemed there was hope. So on to a large maintenance/neglect list. The PTO pulley was rusted tight to the clutch disc. Got it off and need to clean up the pro face to see how bad the pitting is Pulled the head to decarbon, measure bore and Ck if valves need to be lapped. The carbon pattern on the top of the piston shows theirs some blow by in the clean oily area. But maybe something to live with. The PO sad the engine was bored 0.10 over about -0 years ago and had now sat unused after he bought a zero turn to mow faster. The cylinder bore does still show some hone marks. I’ll measure bore to see what it really is. I put some penetrating fluid around the intake valve and it held it for 4 hours last night this morning about half had seep through. So not bad for a quasi valve Ck. Put the rear on jack stands and pulled rear wheels. Replacing the jury rigged clutch spring is on the list. The brake pad is loose and needs regaled or replaced Thankfully the brake hub came of nicely for cleaning and to replace the leaking seal behind it. While I was under it I inspected the transmission mounting plate and no sign of cracks. Crud build behind the Input Pulley tells me it also needs a new seal. Stated soaking the Allen set screw for removal. The right hub was loose and seal leaking. It slid off easily and thankfully the keyway in the hub and axle are ok. Ran a tap through both hubs bolt holes to clean them up. The left hub is tight and the seal doesn’t appear to be leaking. I’ll just check the torque on its set bolt and leave that seal for another day. Thankfully I have all the parts in hand except for a new starter solenoid that should be here today. That’s most of the disassembly, so on to some clean up work.

Fasteners are an expense when restoring and repairing machines that's oft forgotten and can add up quickly. Spend an hour making a gridded list or even a spreadsheet and you'll save that hour and more later knowing you have what you need. You will also save money buying in bulk instead of piece by piece. I'd also add some 5/16-18 to the above mentioned sizes. I've talked to Trina here about making up a list a few times in the past. @Maz91 @Rob J. and @OldWorkHorse have all brought it up to us because we've restored so many Horses and we maintain our other equipment. We keep an organized assortment of Grade 8 here. Our sizes range from 1/4-20 x 1/2" up to 3/8-16 x 1 1/2". Be prudent on purchase location. I've stopped buying at TSC and any larger box stores. The quality is average at best and the pricing has gone way high. My experience shows me your best place of purchase is Bolt Depot in Hingham MA. Online order. Pricing is super low. Customer service is top notch. Purchase "bag/box quantity" and their discount is excellent. The Grade 8 is barely more expensive than Grade 5 and the strength difference is quite a bit. Grade 8 can be had in a Yellow zinc or plain or black in some sizes. I buy the yellow so I can differentiate them easily.

Got a couple hours on the barn again the concrete is thicker then I thought in some of these area's, it's 4" in a decent section. Which is also making it harder to bust up and of course is more concrete to move. I probably only got maybe a 1/10 of it done so it's gonna be a good 20 hours of work on the concrete.

The lumber I am pulling up and saving is a mixture of newer yellow pine and old growth hardwood. But yeah I can't bring myself to throw away any of the old hardwood, as long as it isn't all rotted out or so full of nails its not worth it. Speaking of expensive wood, I should show you guys something else. This is a desk I made out of a 1862 square grand piano top. The bottom of the piano a friend was using for something else. It's veneered Brazilian Rosewood which Brail banned the exportation in 1967 due to over harvesting heading towards extinction. It's very desirable in musical instruments especially guitars and there is still some old stock that goes for a lot of money these days. The edges I actually cut 45's to add the 1 1/2 piece to the sides basically seamlessly. The top is only about 3/4" thick

It's puzzling enough for me about what Pullstart does to a tractor...

I just picked up a 1973 D-180 tractor. Been wanting one of these since I saw one at the show a few years back. Now comes the fun in getting it running. First thing I found is that both the key swicth and the plug that goes into the back is coroded to the pint that it is falling apart. First parts needed so off to the search.. Overall after sitting for years in a barn it needs a hell of a bath but it seems solid. there is little ruat anywhere so great starting point. Found a plow alread adn reached out to the guy with the 3-point here with "I'll take it" and last will hope to find a grader blade.

My best and worst meals when working in Graz, Austria. best Schweinschnitzel with scalloped potatoes and Austrian white asparagus in brown butter sauce and a flakey buttery Austrian croissant with raspberry jam. worst Schweinsaxle soup with lard bread No matter how many times I went to Austria, when I returned home, I was always asked " how many kangaroos did you see"?

When you live a long way from the hardware store and have military vehicles and big tractors in addition to WHs Top of pic 1 is NC 1/4 -7/16 2" and below Bottom is NF Gr8 and Stainless and Galvanized (One red drawer is my entire metric selection ) Pic 2 Yellow bins NC 1/4" to 1/2 " longer than 2 inches Lower level NC 5/8" to 1" (and extras for the drawers)

Plus that wood he's saving is probable full dimensional size and better wood that you buy these days. I picked up a 7/8" x 5" x 65" piece of 4s4 White Oak last week $41 I replaced a window and needed a wider sill trim board. That was at a hardwood lumber supply which has better prices the HD or Lowes on Oak lumber. Wow have prices gone up.

A reminder: While we do offer finished 3d printed items and parts, we have provided several FREE downloads of our models to Redsquare members here: https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/35-wheel-horse-3d/ So if you have a 3d printer, or know someone who does, you can print many of the most common replacement parts yourself!!!! Standard hood ornament, 7075 headlight lens bezel and others are all there!

Trail cam at @Ed Kennell's place... Something about an Austrian kangaroo in lederhosen...?

Great name! Too bad you have to work in such a small garage

The C-Series used different methods of fastening the throttle and choke controls to the steel back plate. Some parts diagrams show a #10-24 screw and a KEP nut. Others show a pop-rivet. Most that I have seen used a pop-rivet. Seeing that a #10 screw is 3/16" diameter, I'd assume the pop-rivet is also 3/16"

Here is the dash I still need to polish the lighter and put the switch in

My thoughts on the original question was Tractor Supply sells fasteners by the pound. I regularly grab a couple pounds of whatever size I might need. Like @WHX?? and @Achto I typically use stainless in certain spots as well. Especially on engine tins and tractor sheet metal. Those I just buy when I find a sale.

Harbor Freight 43 grade and 70 is commonly known to be good chain. I have probably 5 lengths of their 3/8" 43 grade. If I had to do it over again I'd go with the 5/16" 70 grade since it's a longer length of chain. https://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/ropes-chains-hoists/chains-hooks/3-8-eighth-inch-x-14-ft-truckers-chain-97711.html https://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/ropes-chains-hoists/chains-hooks/516-in-x-20-ft-grade-70-truckers-chain-60667.html

I’m almost finished with a hardware list for the 1960/ 61 Suburbans. I’ve also started on the c1xx. And c1x1 list.

@squonk winner winner chicken dinner ! Blown fuse. Replaced and up and running again. Thanks guys. Now I guess I need to know what caused it to blow.

spectacular building -- we enjoy watching the barn rescue shows on tv -- some are shows about taking apart and then re-purpose the timber for a new barn or new house -- the barns like yours across the usa are great treasurers of the country's history - enjoy the project !!!!!!!

Still searching for the best croissant...

Totally agree with this. I’ve endured a lot of comments about how I have various wood stored in the basement and garage. “What is all that clutter?" Yet I cannot count the number of times that I, or a family member, or a friend needed something built that my “stock” came in handy.

Plus it will save you money, for the labor you have to put into it. When I remodeled the kitchen everything I tore out, I reused, trim, studs, and even a lot of the wood that came out of the cabinets seeing they were the hand-built type. Why throw it away just to have to buy new?

Thanks everyone. A restore may come later but I am pulling some of the sheet metal off and using the flood on them for now to stop the rust from getting any worse. It's just surface level right now. Want to go in with new bolts because I am going to be using this thing for plowing snow and grass cutting. I am just getting everything mechanically sound and stopping rust for now. I kind of like the used petina but all painted up looks good too. This may get me started. https://www.amazon.com/318pcs-Bolts-Assortment-Hex-Washers/dp/B0BCWMHBGD/ref=asc_df_B0BCWMHBGD?mcid=22d9411875af377ba3dae422478d293c&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693340177858&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7965959235047751582&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022933&hvtargid=pla-1944594552373&th=1 Steve

We usually work on jigsaw puzzles when it's cold and miserable outside. Once one is laid out on the card table, I find myself stopping and looking for a piece about every time I walk by. There's just something about them that pulls you in. Below is a "puzzle" I've been working on for the model train. I still have a ways to go and find these about as addictive as jigsaw puzzles. Cardstock paper, tacky glue, scraps of boards, some aluminum, little bottles of paint from hobby store and several hours of labor is all I've got invested. I loosely based this dilapidated house on a picture I found of one. I'll probably tie up three dollars in this one.

HHCS = hex head cap screw Cap screw = common industry name for a bolt with a head

1/4 - 20 is another common size. Many times the IPL has the size listed.

3/8 by varying lengths over an inch, and the same with 1/2 inch bolts. All course threads. Grab some nylock nuts to go with both sizes, maybe half as many as bolts. There are other sizes scattered about, but these two are most common.

Howdy all, I found this gem on FB marketplace. I’m going to pick it up on Saturday for $200 as I couldn’t pass it up for the price. The main use will be to mow my small lot and to clear the occasional middle CT snow storm. (Apologies for the poor quality pictures. They are from the listing and I will get better photos after I pick it up.) Couple questions… Is the electric lift factory installed or a aftermarket lift as I can’t find anything on the internet for it? Is this a sought after model? And last but not least, am I getting robbed paying $200 for this unit as it’s been up for a while on the web. Thanks!

well, did you see any?

I got my BKTs mounted & filled with Rimguard. Here are some photos next to the Carlisle Turf Savers I removed: They are both 23x10.50-12 tires.

That is hard work! Be thankful the pourers didn’t but in any mesh reinforcement! Might behoove you to rent an electric jack hammer for half a day. Do all the busting up and then do the pickup as you have time.

Pointed forward like that, maybe skip the blower and just melt the snow? Sounds terrific!

Got the exhaust elbows welded on, not enough room to thread them on and not going to try to take apart the rusted together pipes. She is a throaty beast for sure. Especially when I throttle up, which I wasnt able to film. She does have a coil breaking down, I finally got it hot enough to shut down and I verified it does loose spark. So I will order one of the reproduction coils off Amazon. See how long it lasts. The one on the tractor looks original with how weathered the coil looks. Now who has a good mower deck with front tensioner set up they will sell me and lives in Indiana?

And since, a lot of that lumber comes from Canada... Even looking at construction lumber. I husband the older 2x and 1x boards, which are usually from slower-growth and more dense grain to use where it really is needed. For hidden or trivial jobs, the box store stuff gets used!

With it sitting for awhile, she may need to go out and cut some tall grass to seat the rings back up and clear up the smoke. Letting these sit is just as bad as using them and working them hard.

Quite a sunny day here for winter. Awoke to the terrible news of the air crash in Washington, so sad. Spent the morning building a raised planter out of railway sleepers at the community garden. Got home at lunch time expecting a few hours in the workshop. But we had a power cut (pretty rare these days) and I just had to read instead. Mrs.W usually goes out with the Gin Gals on Thursday but she's stopping home tonight, won't get to do my own thing!

In all reality Don that could have been quite a few things including vibration, age, corrosion, bad ground is a possibility.

When redoing an RJ Wheel Horse the last three or four I have ordered all my new bolts, washers and nuts from BoltDepot.com as they do an excellent job of labeling, packing and shipping and are much more reasonable than hardware stores. The Wheel Horse RJ manual has the bolts and fasteners listed in the manual. Like Eric says -make a good list of all the bolts, washers, nuts and fasteners before you make your order. BoltDepot.com has various grades of their items .

Now if you had a tractor set up with a snow thrower, you could blow all that away. I have to plow snow to the south side of my driveway, because my neighbor doesn't like me putting snow on his property. So, after I get done plowing, I take the 16 Auto w/ the snowblower and throw all that windrow out into the framers field. That way when the wind blows out of the south I don't end up with hugh drifts.

The end of the slip hook is physically too large to fit into the side of a chain link. So, to safely use it if it has slip ends on both ends, would be basically full length at all times. The beauty of the grab hook, is that you can make a short loop to drop over say a hitch ball, or you can make a large loop to cut the chain length in half.

That's a good price for what it is and it would give you a holder for the future. Having an organized bolt tray is excellent. Meant to say in my earlier post that if you're going to use Nylock nuts, and you should, make sure you account for the extra length on the bolt when purchasing.

I love their stoves. Dad had a Defiant in the camp, I had one in my first house. Older brother has a Vigilant, I currently have the Resolute and Intrepid. We're a Vermont Castings family!

That’s been for sale for a while. If I lived nearby I would have bought it just for the electric lift! As others have mentioned, that in itself is worth $200. Keep us updated with your progress 👍🏻Just so you know, the nicest most helpful people are here on Red Square!

Actually should be done every year the way you run it Don. Most stoves that have a sight glass are gasketed to the door so inspect those as well. The glass is usually clamped on by thin clips or rails and machine screws and they can warp with the heat. If she won't hold a fire all nite gaskets or the damper not shutting down right. Warped doors can happen too. Plunge ... what on earth are those wood fixtures above the hearth for??? Looks like fishin rod holders ...

That's a good tip thanks! Fortunately almost all the nails come out easy. It's just knocking them out the one side and then turning the board over to pull them, that takes the time. I got other projects I can definitely use the lumber on so trying to save what is worth the time.

After a cold spell and some windy days I got some more work done on the barn, it for sure takes longer getting all the nails out of the boards I am pulling up but I would say it's worth it. And underneath all the boards I had this trailer load of dust and hay.