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Actually I'm filing a slight complaint on that. This new compressor is a slave driver. With the old compressor the blaster would over take it and you would have to wait for the compressor to catch up. Break Time !! The new compressor catches up with the blaster, goes into idle mode for about 2min, kicks back in, passes the blaster again, and goes to idle mode etc. NO More Break Times !! You just keep on hammerin' along

Who say's a 420 -LSE can't lay down a patch. Took her for a trail ride today and when I went to put it away the right rear started spinning so I opened the throttle up and watched it spin. Haven't done that since 1999 when I sold my 70 Chevelle SS big block. Boy did that feel good. Doesn't take much to amuse myself as I get older. Can anyone relate ?

If you haven’t used a kazoo since elementary school (or if you’ve never used one at all), then get ready to play! After all, National Kazoo Day’s here. It all began when Joyful Noise Kazoo Band member Chaplin Willard Rahn founded the day in 1983. National Kazoo Day is meant to celebrate all the ways that playing (and listening) to the kazoo bring happiness to people of all ages. So on January 28, celebrate by listening to kazoo bands or by playing your own. Alabama Vest, a man from Macon, Georgia, invented the fun musical instrument in the 1940s that everyone still loves today. Audiences get their first glimpse of a kazoo at the 1852 Georgia State Fair. Emil Sorg, a traveling salesman, teams up with toolmaker Michael McIntyre to manufacture the kazoo in 1912. In 1923 McIntyre received a patent for the kazoo production process and product.

Well in all honesty, I guess I will get a break every 3hrs when I have to go out & dump 2 gallons of gas in it. Less than $3 per hour. Price I have to pay to maintain 125psi non-stop at the blaster. The pressure at the compressor never drops below 150psi. 1.5hrs to go before the first 5hr oil change on the engine. Recommended every 50hrs after that. 50hrs for first oil change on the pump, every 100hrs after that. I may shorten these intervals though. Oil is cheaper than engines & pumps. So far, very happy with the purchase.

I like old flashlights and have a large collection. This weekend I bought an older plastic military light. I usually don’t buy anything plastic. Takes two D cells and as you can imagine it’s not very bright by todays standards. Bought an LED lamp rated for two D cells and swapped it out today.

No wiring necessary. Stick it on your tractor, flip the switch. Take it off & recharge it at the end of the day. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Security-Emergency-Flashing-Warning/dp/B08112GNBS?gPromoCode=9887143402271754890&gQT=1&ref_=fplfs&smid=A3OF8PDC8TQIDE&source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&th=1

For a short term temporary installation, use two alligator clips directly on the battery. terminals.

My heart bleeds for you.

Regarding laying patches with a Wheel Horse. I kind of enjoy how Morgan the 14-8 will carry the front wheels a bit off of the ground for 6 or 8 inches when the clutch occasionally grabs.

I also did the same thing on my C-121. And also on my C-145 I have rear WHELEN ION amber flashing lights that the public works trucks have on them. cm-chat-media-video-1:921c5e01-9961-3138-8733-92850a611703:10989:0:0.mov

Or on a pole. Higher than your head is visible in all directions.

I wired in a cigarette lighter direct to battery. Then just got a magnetic amber flasher and put it on the hood. Works like a charm... I also have regular headlights and taillights along with a very bright red led light on the back (old trailer brake light). I would go more rather than less on lights... also wear a class 3 reflective vest. Your idea will work but it won't be very visible...

What’s the deal @Achto Your holding out on us. No rubbing in our face how great it is to blast and not have to wait for the compressor to catch upon!

Back in, i guess it was 1999, my dad bought a new JD 425, 40 Loader, 3pt...it was about 14k out the door, extremely useful setup. We used it all the time, it mowed 3 acres, spread dirt..gravel, dug holes. It was well cared for but it had some scrapes, cracked tail lens, gauge glass was cracked...it wasn't something we looked at and said "ive spent 14k on it so im going to try and keep it worth that much", but rather "im going to get my 14k out of it". But, if I bought a NOS Survivor, id feel too guilty if i scratched it, like it survived this many years and then I came along and messed it up...now its not only worth less, ive got to get on RedSquare and take a beating from the guys🤣

Still no engine on my project tractor …but I still picked up this complete kit today.

This weekend evolved a bit of side tracking. Saturday I took on a job painting the inside of a 26 x 26 x 12 garage. After spraying 10 gal of primer and then spraying 20 gal of paint, back rolling and I don't know how many trips up & down a ladder. Need less to say, I was all in all done for the day. Not the best pic, but it did happen. With making extra tractor $ out of the way, I moved on to my projects. First project this morning, get some heat in my work beater. For the last few weeks the temp gauge has hardly moved and the temp at the heater vents has only been reaching an average of 74 degrees. Perfect for traveling in sub zero weather. A new thermostat and now the temp gauge runs more towards the center and the temp at the heater vents is reaching 134 degrees. MUCH BETTER. Should make my commute more bearable, Now on to some tractor stuff. First off take care of the previous repairs that were done to the 3/4" foot rest bar. Not poo pooing the repair, it kept the tractor in service. Not sure what happened to render the need for the pipe welded over the right hand side. Guessing the left side must have broken free of the frame. After a bunch of grinding the old bar was out of the way. New bar burned in place. Just to make sure there will not be future issues with this bar, I also added some gussets to it. After that repair I still had some time to degrease and blast a few parts. All the excitement that I have to share for this weekend.

Hey guys. I wasn't sure how easy/hard it would be to wire up some taillights for my 312-8, which just has reflectors on the back. I'd almost never need them, but once in a while when plowing I back onto the road. I also am getting a large dead tree felled and the way it is on the property, I'll need to go onto the road back and forth for about 15 yards to get around some boulders and pickup bucked logs. I'm horrible when it comes to electrical things, so rather not mess up and try to install taillights when I would rarely need them. I was thinking of just buying a $20 magnetic bike taillight. One I saw looked decent, lasts 40 hours on a charge, and flashes red. Thought I could just plop the magnetic base onto my rear end between the reflectors and that would be enough. Our road isn't busy but when cars do come theyre going 40 mph... thanks for the advice guys

This is our second Vermont Castings stove. The first one we bought new when we built our house, had for around twenty years and sold it after I regasketed it a few times over the years but finally I couldn’t get it air tight enough to bank down and run all night. We really liked that stove and bought the same one new about eight years ago. It runs 24 hours a day in the winter. One of the things that’s nice about it is that you don’t have to shut it down to clean out the ashes. Simply swing out the door underneath the stove and the ash pan comes out. Then slide this cover over it, it locks in and then you lift it out, very easy. One winter years ago we ran it from the beginning of December until April without it ever going out. Up until two years ago I always cut, split and stacked my own wood, usually burning 3-4 cords a year. I’ve had a steady supply of free long lengths of wood delivered for free from various people. Unfortunately I’ve had some pretty bad back problems lately and performing those tasks would likely render me unable to do anything for a few days but lay in bed. So reluctantly I bought wood and had it delivered and stacked. Yes at that point I could have just bought fuel oil and not had to do anything but turn up the thermostat. But running the stove is something my wife and I love. There’s really nothing like wood stove heat, whether it’s a cold winter night or just coffee in the morning near the stove. But probably the best is coming home at the end of the day after working outside in the cold and sitting next to the stove, usually I’m asleep in 10-15 minutes!! @JCM Thanks for starting this thread, I enjoy seeing other people’s stoves and surroundings!

I'd better give the credit to my engine builder, I didn't build the engine. Jeremy Hogan at Hogan Service Center in Nevada Missouri built the engine and dynoed it for me. He has built alot of engines in the 4 state area here. Great guy ! I've done most of the fabrication on the tractor myself. I'm thinking about increasing the stock wheelbase 2 inches. I don't want to get carried away and make it look like some kind of Frankenstein thing. Kinda want it to look like it's just been rubbed on some.

I had it on my 310-8. Did awesome! The only complaint is we had to switch the spindle shaft for the longer one to fit the double pulley. Other then that no complaints. Awesome for sucking the leaves on the fall. IMG_3136.mov

Got it put together now for the dash ive got the decals on it and its clear coated new throttle and choke cables that are correct a very nice lighter and hopefully after I solder the generator light it works

I'd agree with this for the most part. I think it's important to remember that these machines are likely now well past what Wheelhorse expected as a lifespan. Also, oil tech has changed over that 40 ish years (or more). I've seen threads where some use synthetic products. @squonk or @Ed Kennell maybe?

i do not know the specific answer to your question but i would suggest you reference and rely on the manuals on line here at RSq and you will see they all have specs for the oil based on temperatures - versus viscosity -- for both the engine and the hydro trannys --- i'm guessing the WH company expected their machines to frequently operate below 0 degree outdoors so they accordingly likely recommended and oil or tranny fluid that was appropriate -- including for proper circulation via the hydro hoses.

The Big Ma Deuce build in progress! A full 1:1 scale build with all the bells and whistles!

J & E pistons, billet rods, steel flywheel. It does have a stock crank, has held up 8 years. It runs 6000 to 7500 rpms pulling.

Seconded.

Man oh man oh man... that would have been cool.

Most of it was taped off so it didn't interfere but a big drill bit helped out for the most part

That looks beautiful @Dixon632000! What do you do about the powdercoat thickness for the front spindles, foot rests, etc?

It's called super mirror red it's all powder coated

I read the rules yesterday right after I did that and figured out that it isn’t allowed. lol

I’m either 6 or 8speed swapping it, we'll see what the guy has in stock (aka the boneyard) tomorrow

Killer Tomato dyno sheet

I just replaced the hydro hoses a few weeks a go on my 1983, C175 h ---- and last year I did the same job for my 1984 C175 h .. it is a nightmare job -- not fun and many bruised cut knuckles ( and a few nasty words ). The photos from Cleat's post are excellent -- better than those I could send. I found it very difficult to locate the leak from under the master valve so I just kept cleaning and then monitoring -- still hard to tell if it was a fitting, a threading, or an internal master valve O ring, or a hose or its fitting O ring???. I determined it was best to remove the master valve and replace its internal "O" rings as well as replace hoses --- I hate doing any job twice and because the job is nasty I only wanted to do it once -- and although expensive $ to replace hoses and fittings that was my choice. I found removing the battery and the front access plate on the engine side was best - - as well as removing the lower dash plate and the tunnel plate - plus lots of light and patience. Probably re-inserting the bolts that hold the master valve in place was most challenging. The new hoses were stiff so getting them threaded placed through the side panel access was also a challenge. Did my snow plowing few days ago and so far all good -- let's hope its a one time project - - UGH !!

You mean with the cub that's on the other side too lol I like em all

Be very careful with that unfinished Wheel Horse being in close proximity to that green and yellow thing. ...They fight when you aren't looking. Might get a scratch in the paint!

I can relate…I try to peel out every time I’m “tractoring” around your property

Here are some pic's of my 867. Don't think there should be much difference.

I’m not into preservation as much as utilization so I always include in my thinking “What would Cecil do faced with the same choice?” LED is cheaper, lasts longer and gives better light.

I did led lamps on my 654. Definitely an improvement. They are really bright. I wasn't worried about originality as its a working tractor. I considered putting led bulbs under the original lenses on my 953 & my 753 HL5 lights but I don't really use those tractors at night.....

I feel like I'm behind the times, but I put LED's on my horse since one of the old lights had burnt out. Testing in my shed with the lights out it seems better, I guess the first early morning snow plow job will tell me how they do.

Willing buyer + willing seller = fair market value.

My brother David bought this 633 about 15 years ago for $60. It had a bad motor so we decided to put a Kohler 8 hp recoil start in it . I used this for mowing with a front reel mower and plowing snow in the winter. i love the way this machine handles. Yes we still have this and glad to see you working on one of these Dan! They are one of the really good round hood models!

Killer Tomato from Lamar Missouri (southwest Missouri). 70 horsepower Kohler twin.

Stock heads that have been ported and polished. Need to save my pennies and get some aftermarket heads. The cam is a Zack Kerber roller cam

NOS changes everything in my opinion. If someone has the money to buy it, good for them. I could not afford it, which is why every tractor I have started with me as a pile of junk most wouldn't look twice at. Over time they have been improved. My 523-H is as close as I'll ever get. The engine is new, the electrical is new, the tires are new. Bearings, gages, everything I could get is new. Frame and hydro are used obviously. I would say it has the greatest dollar value of all my tractors. Even though it is custom, it would never be worth what a NOS machine is worth. Where NOS is concerned, I say congrats to both buyer and seller.

Your 91-16K801 model number is for a 1979 model made November 6, 1978. Two pages of search results using the model number. Files are in no particular order so look through them all. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=91-16k801&quick=1&type=downloads_file Operator manual is there as well as a rare service manual covering the B,C and D-Series

Why, they would solve all your traction problems, and stop the spinning that is tearing up the lawn.