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Progress is limited due to the weather. We've had sub zero lows. The nice 23-10.50's will get a coat of the mixed 'beige' when we get a warm enough day. The wobbles have been eliminated on the engine base. I ran into an oil drain clearance issue involving the steering shaft steering shaft that I'll have to address. I found a local shop with a press and finally got the hub off. But then the problem was the key. I tried every trick in the book and it never budged. I gave up and found a replacement axle. At least the hub was saved. Put the transmission back together and ready to mount. The major tins are primed and ready for Rusty Regal come spring. The hood had a pretty big dent but I did get it out fairly good. Not perfect but from 100 yards it looks fine. The insides of the tins are painted read with a blended paint to match the Regal.

Mine (and there is a lot behind it): “Make a new mistake every day"

Working in a hydro research lab for 47 years. My favorite quote, "Failure is a success if we learn from it"

Wouldn't it be nice if Society as a whole could move past the mental deficiency that failing is a mental deficiency.....

Welcome to this century @SylvanLakeWH. At least they’re both tractors and there’s no visible tattoos, nose or lip jeweley. O yay, no pink or purple hair either.

But I'm not a big supporter of the mixed marriage portrayed in the picture...

My first thoughts on this thread title ran along these lines, too.

Thanks for the help. Here are some photos of the tractor just for fun. Was my grandpas, it had not been used for about 20 years. I fixed it up back in 2021 and been using it.

Back 15 years ago I removed all the electric appliances, combination electric and hydronic heat in the house The heat was replaced with a new cast iron boiler and baseboard keeping it hydronic and 2 kick space heaters. I didn't feel comfortable at all with electric everything living in the Maine woods because of the frequency of power outages. Three years ago I replaced the Gas dryer with a Speed Queen because of its reputation and simplicity. This is our second dryer since purchase of the house. The first gas dryer I had our Propane company do the conversion. Having a Gas License and some more time than I had back then I decided to convert this one myself. This was quite involved because of what had to be removed to access the gas burner. It seems to me a nice 12'' x 12'' removable panel at the lower left bottom side could have been included in the build process ? The belt behind the drum was fun to get back on. Anyway, enjoy the pictures and comments suggested.

I think a 4" grinder making a slot down the middle of the key would get her done. Then you can tap what is stil showing with a punch or old chisel. BTW Bob, you have way too much shelf space !! Looks great !!

Flood Penetrol is what I used on my 77 B-80. Skip the motor oil completely no matter what the “greasy guy” says on here. No oily residue and it’s not a dust magnet. I just wiped it on with a rag.

I do a lot in the woods and find that rubber chains are excellent in the dirt.

Amazingly similar to my GE electric dryer. Yours just has a burner sticking into the tube where mine has an electric coil. Like you, I had to disassemble a lot just to replace a front roller. Replaced all of them since it was apart.

Our 100 lbs Lab "Denali"... oops, er uhm ... "McKinley"... has a question for cats... Do you really taste like chicken?

Flood also does a pretty good job on bringing plastic knobs and handles back too.

1957 was the first year for the embossed Wheel Horse name on the RJ-35.

This 857 was shot with a clear from a rattle can. I’m not a fan, or maybe I just don’t like how the previous owner skipped/missed sections. But I’m stuck with it now.

My Vise Grip adapted to the front of an autobody slide hammer has yet to fail me in key removal - other adapters are for pull dowels. Had this 40 years...

I had the same problem when I used the modified shaker plate as an engine base plate in my low rider. I moved the drain off center to clear the shaft. Weld a flat bar to the key and attack with the BFH. The heat from the welding has loosened broken bolts and saved having to drill them out.

You might be surprised at how tire pressure will affect traction. Without chains I run tire pressure as low as possible without running the risk of losing the bead contact. Heavy bar lug agriculture tires can operate on very low PSI. (2-4 PSI) the more "squat" the greater ground contact equals better grip. Years ago before heavy salt applications on roads, an "Old Timers" trick for steep hills in winter was to lower pressure to great a large bulge in the side wall. Of course in those days flats on the road were common, and many kept a "spark plug" air pump hose in the trunk along with other tire repair equipment, so re-inflating was not a big problem

I take my Natural Gas dryer down off the pedestal once a year (at least) to remove the drum & plenum to vacuum it out. And then fire up the gas leaf blower to clean out the vent.

And so I went back downstairs and did Dinos knobs. I like!

I certainly wouldn't use oil but I second (or 3rd, or 4th.....) the Flood Penetrol. I'm not going to use it on Dino but I just did a sample on one of the footrests. It was still wet when I took the picture so it may not end up quite as shiny but I think you'd like it. I might end up using it on my 76.

I may have that piece too... will look for ya. @Lane Ranger will have it fer sure but he doesn't see his mentions... he's an old coot ...

One of my goals is to teach the whole design process. Start by defining what is needed, brainstorming on ways to do what is needed, sketch, do some reality checks (thumbnail calculations, rough geometry investigations, etc.), start more detailed designs, reality checks again with prototypes, and the importance of all the sub groups getting together to check the master assembly. I also tell the students to expect big design changes and not to take them personally if the part they put lots of work into don't get used. When developing a machine that has several complex systems, changes will happen - it is just part of the process. More is learned from an idea that does not work out, than an idea that works right out of the box. Oh, early in my career, I made many trips to Ford Engineering in Dearborne. Being a young, non Ford engineer, I guess I didn't have much influence.

I got tires of fighting my last racing mower, I got to all hooked up and running and it wouldent move, so my new idea is I got a cheap motorcycle and its a 4-cylinder. 1981 Honda cbr750c, inline four, I got the bike this past Sunday and I got the stripped down, I got coils, put them on last night, waiting on intake boots and a starter. then once I get it to run I will pull the engine and go from there there's a rough kind of mach-up, I was just curious, I will take it out of the frame

Depends on the "look " you want. I just clean off and dirt and wipe it on with a rag or brush.

Common practice for my COMCAST cable service for TVs, phones, and internet. Also reminds me of the heating oil supplier that I terminated. I was a long time customer of Shipley Humble Oil and actually worked for them managing one of their ESSO service stations back in the day. After paying my large oil bill, I saw an ad in the paper where new customers were offered a much lower price than what I had just paid. When I called and complained, I was told there is a reduced price available, but you must call and request the lower price. I made the request, got a refund, cashed the check, and found a new supplier.

Ok, every trick but that one. I've got a new welder on its way. I'm thinking my first little project.......

She’s loud when she kicks into high idle!

sorry not yet.. been well below 0 each day after work so have been avoiding all things outside.. pressure test kit should be in tomorrow and then I hope to do some digging this weekend.

Yes, we ordered the repair hubs yesterday.And we're thinking they should get here this weekend

Thanks to all that replied on this topic, Got the new two piece hub yesterday and threw it all back together.. I haven't test drove it, but I think it'll be fine. Probably wait to put the wheel weights back on after I make sure it's going to work fine.

My hitch was completely hand made. Uses the 2 bolts on the top of the transmission and the 3/4" pin for the stock hitch. Top plate of the hitch. Face plate and lower plate. Inside pieces for mounting to the 3/4' pin. Top plate mounted Face plate bent and shaped. Upper and lower plates shaped. All pieces burned together. Last make the hitch piece and the 3/4" ready rod to hold the adjustable hitch. Finished product. The wheelie bars that I made bolt on each side of this hitch.

@Lane Ranger can probably help you out.

I’ll show you what I did to accommodate this tomorrow, I decided I’m going with the 70’s hood, because it looks a little cooler on this application (That’s my opinion). The reason mostly is the motor don’t fit under the 68 hood, this amounts to: I’m a lazy bum

I was looking into using that cub style hitch you have @Achto, how did you mount it? Thank guys for having grace with me through this whole thing, I’m new and this has left me a bit confused

Think you could swing into Detroit and Dearborn and teach the dingbats in Ford's design division how to test stuff before OKing it for production? Those dopes clearly don't know that "looks good on paper" does not always translate into "works in the real world" and it seems to me that is the lesson you are really teaching those kids.

Hi Everyone, I just bought my first Wheel horse B-80 1977. I will be going through it this weekend and taking the mower off and putting on the blade. Then a tune up and see what else is needed. I know it runs and everything works. I need to post some pictures of the second one he gave me because it was painted and has no serial number. Not sure what year it is but the front grill is more narrow at the bottom from what I can tell. It may have a motor with more HP's. I just picked everything up last weekend and stuck in garage. I will be learning a lot from all of you. Steve

Skinny tires help too. Less contact patch and more weight equals more contact PSI. That’s what it’s really all about.

What I run in the winter... I had some "extra" cross link parts kicking around........

Penetrol Flood. Sold at Lowes and other fine retailers. Wipe or brush on. Walk away. Did these fenders.

If you can’t bedazzle ‘em with brilliance, baffle ‘em with bull$hit…

Keep it simple. Here is a picture of the dash on Horse Apples. Toggle switch to turn the ignition on and a push button for the starter. As per our club rules, the starter button is also hooked to a switch on the clutch/brake peddle. The starter will not work unless the peddle is depressed all the way. (switch towards the front) The switch towards the back is a break away switch. This gets tethered to the eliminator. If my tractor comes unhooked from the eliminator, the plunger on this switch will get pulled out. This in turn will shut off my ignition and electric fuel pump. This breakaway switch is another requirement by our club.

My '89 312-8 with the 37" side discharge deck was a little over $3400 out the door.

Luckily that's all Randy .. also a nice sized dent right in the front. Your more than Jam ... I haven't had time to work on it lately between honey do, those stupid 702s and teaching that recliner a lesson...