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Last night I was plowing snow with my C-145. 25 degrees out, was dressed warm, had my heated gloves on and a smile on my face. Life was pretty good !! Then all of a sudden the engine stalled just like I had turned off the key. . Pushed the old girl in the shop for some diagnostics. Found that I had no spark. Multi meter showed that I was getting "+" power to the coil but no "-". Down side - points were not making a good contact. Up side - No need to buy a new solid state coil, or a new CDI box. Nor did I have to wait for said parts to arrive or wait till morning to take a drive to get new parts. Instead a quick cleaning of the points with some 1200 grit sand paper and I was back in business. $0 repair and only 15min down time.

Old technology is the best if you have a person with an old soul around to make it work.

I'm with Mike on the new technology. I have had my 2000 Silverado for 25 years as of last month. I hope it will serve me the rest of my life.

The heck with new technology. I had to replace my 2013 GMC a couple of month's ago. After reading the horror stories from owners of 2015 and up vehicles I went 2 years older on a southern truck. Doesn't matter who makes em anymore. They are all junk. No Eco crap, cam phasers, cylinder deactivation, wet belt drive systems for me

Nicely done man! I'd have been out there doing a sage smudge and creating new words for a few minutes....

Got nice little vintage can for Christmas (back row, right) to add to what I've renamed my @peter lena tribute collection.

Been working on the organization and movement of the basement workshop to the new workshop space. Today I completely undid and redid my selection of paper manuals. I've had the BBT print a few here and had several Redsquare members send me older paper copies. I now have everything neatly divided into several general binders. As in the picture: 1. A Yost Vise manual. 2. General Wheelhorse info we've printed or had mailed here. 3. Original Wheelhorse tractor manuals or sales pieces. 4. Twin cylinder Kohler manuals. 5. Single cylinder Kohler manuals.

Agreed on all... In fact I'd go even older. I've been considering buying another vehicle lately. If it's a truck it'll be a 1996 or older Ford F Series with the inline six. I'd also consider pre 1998 GM or 1994-99 Dodge, in that order.

Check battery voltage with tractor off. Check again with tractor running. Voltage should be higher with tractor running.

I was gonna say we need pics per the Rules... but then again... do we need this visual on Christmas Eve...? Nah...

Chrysler products were always weird with the electrics. When I was working at CPJE dealers in the 80's,I figured Joseph Lucas' younger brother came over to the states after WWII and got a job with the Dodge Bros.

Agreed. My two trucks are 2011 and 2014. The latter only has 60K on the odometer. I won't buy anything past 2015 or so, and absolutely nothing with a CVT. ...well, maybe a golf cart.

With your battery fully charged and with a multimeter connected to the battery, start the engine. Your meter should not drop below 10volts while cranking. If it does then your battery is most likely getting weak. With a multimeter check you battery voltage with the engine running at 3/4 throttle or more. You should show around 13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery. If not check all of your wire connections to make sure that they are good. If all connections are good but you still are not charging - connect the multimeter to the battery. Start the engine. Take a wire, touch one end of the wire to your battery negative and the other end to the "F" terminal on the starter/gen. You should hear the engine draw down a bit and the meter should show 14 volts or more at the battery. If this is the results that you get from this test, this would indicate that you have a bad voltage regulator.

Merry Christmas to each and every one of you from Courtney and I.

Yep how many times at show with a dollar bill...

As they said in Jaws - Gonna need a bigger Boat....

Finally got my wig-wag lights setup the way I wanted. The LED bulbs respond a lot better to the flashers and are brighter. I had orange film in the front light to try and tint the white bulbs, but they were just too bright to get the look I wanted using the film. The ones in this video are actual amber LEDs (no film) and look better than I expected.

I'll also nominate the 225 slant six for that catigory.

2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL

Always. We are very good with that. Whenever drilling, cutting, spraying stuff that’ll burn eyes glasses are always on. Same for gloves. Thanks for looking out!

If the lift chain is adjusted too short they won't latch up. You can remove the bottom panel below the dash there two screws at the top of the panel. I don't think there is anything attached to that panel on your model. Run the trunnion up on the eye bolt until it will latch up.

Excellent work on your restoration. The engine sounds great. Love Briggs twins. I'd like to offer one piece of advice, please invest in some PPE. Using a proper full or half face respirator with organic vapor cartridges and disposable nitrile gloves can greatly reduce your chemical exposure. Also purchase safety glasses and/or a face shield and use them. Absorption and inhalation are the two primary methods of unintentional chemical ingestion. I often think about some of the things I did when I was younger and did know better, and I wonder what effect it may have on me in the future. This is a great hobby, enjoy it safely.

I got my C-125 running today! Maybe 4-5 years ago I went to start her after it snowed and she'd turn over but wouldn't fire so I had to shovel my 200ft driveway by hand. Later that week I tried a few things to see what was wrong but never figured it out. At the time we had an infant, a 1 year old, and a 3 year old plus a pre-teen and I always had other priorities and never got around to looking at it until last weekend. Cleaned out a mouse nest from the engine cover. Drained the tank and fuel lines, cleaned out the carb, adjusted the points, new spark plug and battery, new engine oil and transmission oil. After all that still nothing. Spark, but she wouldn't fire up. Bought a new condenser and after that could get her to fire up and idle but if I'd go past 1/2 throttle she'd shake violently. I must have cleaned & adjusted the points 5 times before finally buying a new set. I had a few minutes to put on the new points today and that was apparently the problem because she immediately fired up and she purrs like a kitten again! We don't get a lot of snow here in Cincinnati, but I just have a feeling that we're due for a good snowfall this year so I REALLY wanted to have my Wheel Horse back!

And the effects are often not noticeable until later in life. I swear I was 25 only last week, but will be 55 next month. It goes by quick!

Yesterday, we got at least four inches of snow. So, Yesterday morning until my family Christmas party, and this morning I plowed. It's still running like a top.

I'll look at my Graco tomorrow to see what Model # it is. How big a project are we talking about? I've painted a couple of pole barns and stained about everything under the sun. Nozzle selection is important depending on what you're spraying. When staining, you're really only using the sprayer to deliver material to surface. It will still need to be back-brushed in. I do not recommend power roller attachments - I've never had any luck with them.

1992 GMC K2500 is my daily driver. I always carry a spare ignition control module in the glove box. When control module dies, it will leave you sitting on the shoulder of the road--if there is a shoulder. Only takes a few minutes to replace. Electrical can be a challenge. I had a intermittent hard shifting issue a while back. Transmission shop found that a wire was chaffed coming from computer to transmission across the bell housing. Keeping clean grounds (and adding additional ones) on vehicles as well as Wheelhorses is part of my maintenance. My 1947 and 1971 vehicles both still use breaker points. I have a timing light, dwell meter, and other small tools needed to keep them running. Some have suggested going electronic ignition but I still like getting out the old tools off the shelf even though I have to refer to my notes on how to use them. Two of these vehicles I've owned for more than 50 years. My plans are to keep all three until I no longer need them.

My son is A tig welder and made it for me out of stainless.Just welded on the O.E muffler.

That steering wheel is already toast, you don't need a press to remove it. Cut it off

Long story short…this deck cuts well and the spindles are quiet, but these nasty pulleys are destroying the belt. Decided to try and clean up the pulleys. First I chisled off the large chunks of rust, then did some heavy wire wheeling. They seem to be ok now. Will know better when I order a new deck/spindle belt and probably a new idler pulley ( @76c12091520h ) for it and spin it up.

I'm kind of 50/50. Nothing I own with wheels is newer than 1992. There is definitely pluses and minuses to either. the oldest is my 84 Yamaha Enticer. It has been sitting since last winter. I started it this winter with no issues, on last years gas. Both tractors start easily, and run in colder temps than I thought they would. There's been little hiccups here and there with the tractors but nothing big. My mother has got a 2013 Pilot which she loves, that is coming up on 200,000 miles with no issues but wear due to age. This question reminds me when my father bought his 2016 F150. The dealership asked him if he wanted insurance just for the 6 computers in it....

Quite true. I like the body style of those but the purchase possibility would be a distant third to the distant second of the GM to the Ford. IMHO that 300 is a top contender for THE most reliable engine ever made.

Be careful of that series, especially with one of the Magnum engines. I'm no expert at all, and I don't remember the details, but we had a '96 with the 5.9l V-8, bought new. It was a good truck generally for us, and lasted a bit over 200,000 miles before it started developing difficult to diagnose electrical problems. But they apparently had known transmission issues (got mine rebuilt at 138K, no problems after that), and "plenum" issues that caused it to run only fair for the last 50K or so (look up "plenum fix" in some of the Dodge forums for more info).

Christmas festivities done for now so I came out to feed the birds and put another piece on the Work Horse. Front axle and pivot pin ready to install. Pivot pin is a new one that I made and uses a cotter pin instead of an E clip on the front. Also the mounting tab is much heavier than OEM. Axle has been bored and bronze bushings installed. Front axle installed. Washer and cotter pin installed. Pin bolted into place.

Will a General Motors power steering pulley puller work? A collar locks into the groove at the top. https://www.princessauto.com/en/gm-power-steering-pump-pulley-puller/product/PA0009065061

So very true. Worth every penny if you get one. I didn't know just how often I would use one until I got it.

Wee but o' moving fluffy white stuff around the door-yahd.

Oh I remember. I need at least that and more. Easier to plan for excess and future issues.

She sounds like a keeper!

One barn. One house. Then whatever she desires.....

@Bar Nuthin mineral oil patina , just keeps getting better , pete

try some left handed drill bits. Applied to the peened end of the screw, they might encourage the screw to thread itself through the shaft - assuming that the head is gone..

Yeah, tomorrow I’ll attack that pulley again. I have like 4 months before I need this deck

Yes the shaft I may have a friend who may have a press. But will not be till spring.

The set in that Green White hilo were so burnt, I had to file them pretty much gone to get rid of the burn spot! No go with a dollar bill for those ones…

Battery powered Impact Driver. If you don't already have one it'll be a tool you never knew how much you needed. I'd say yes for sure. I don't know the original material either. I'd think even a thin metal washer is better than none. I could check tomorrow as I have two starters on the bench for future rebuilds.

Prepped for snow. Got the deck off and put away for the winter, chains on, snow blower installed and plow on deck. All I need now is some gas to put the battery on a charge for a bit.

You can count on this...IF your brake drum is on the Mushroom Gear shaft, (the hole closest to the rear axle) and it is a 6 speed, then it is a 10 pinion Limited Slip transmission. It is either a 5060 or a 5071 and does not have a dip stick. The other Limited Slip transmission is the 5073. This one does have a dipstick and the brake drum is on the cluster gear shaft. The only exturnal way to tell if it is 8 or 10 pinions is to see if both wheels turn at the same time...put on ice with the front of the horse against a tree or post. The 8 pinion differential had 4 bolts holding the differentrial together, the 10 pinion differential has 5 bolts holding the differential together. One last thing, if you have 1" axles, it can be an 8 speed, but it only has a 4 pinion differential and is never a Limited Slip trans.

I have never even removed the dust covers from mine to see what color the binding is. I bought the third edition when it came out in 2015, love it. I had the first edition on my watch list to see how high people would bid on it, some of them go for stupid money. The auction ended while I was in the hospital and my wife thought I must want it real badly to have it on the watch list so she got into the last minute bidding frenzy and bought it for me. I won't tell you what she paid and I know her intentions were the best. It should have been gold plated gota love her.