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Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place but just wanted to make a post to thank you all for helping me out with my literal hundreds of questions I've asked here! Buying this old horse, I was really nervous as I couldn't find any manuals or information online. Well, you all are such a wealth of knowledge, and have answered my questions and given me advice so quickly. Good, fast and cheap - they say you can only have two. Well, you guys have helped me free of charge so I know which two you all are! I will be searching on here how to support the site and would like to join the club too. The money is nothing compared to how much help you all have been and what a source of information this forum is. Thank you again!! Really appreciate it!

Ha! Just saw that now - I'm official! $20 for all this knowledge? More worthwhile than college!!

So my next project is this 416-8. It's either an 87 or 88 year as it has the M16s Kohler. The sticker is too faded to read anything on it. But the price was right for a non-runner and I have been trying to be patient on the right deal for a single cylinder 16 to come a long and it finally did. Story on this one is the seller purchased the place a couple months ago and this and some other items were parked behind a shed and he decided to see if they would sell before he pushed em to the curb for big trash day. He knows nothing about it. So this is a total start from square one and I'll wear the hat of investigator for a while. Should be fun though and give myself some entertainment, that's what we'll call it for now. I'll plan to get it back to normal working condition and keep it as a main user is the goal. I'll share progress and may need guidance as well. Let's get started with a rundown of what I have done and where I am at with it. As it came, also had a 42" RD deck I did wash it off to start and gave it an oil rub down to see how the paint would respond So first thing is the front tires have sidewall cracking and won't hold air for more than 10 mins. Also the battery cables were crusty and connectors were spinning. So tubes for the front tires and replacing the battery cables was first in line. Cables are 4 AWG. Wrestled with the tires and someone tried some tire flat repair gunk. This stuff is gross and always seems to rust the rims away. Glad to have that job over though So I believe I found the main reason this rig was parked. One of the rear hubs is ruined as the keyway was rubbed half a way and the woodruff key and hub essentially ate away at each other. The axle shaft does seem fine thank goodness. I think they attempted to fix a transmission oil leak and then didn't put the hub on right. So I was lucky enough that a friend was sourcing some parts from another guy and he had a 1 1/8" hub for a decent price so he was making the trip the next day. So whether it was luck or coincidence I'll take it either way. So I do have the hub and woodruff key ready to go. I ordered an axle seal for it and that is on the way. I'll recycle this bad hub into a hub puller so not a total loss! So the other bad news is this does have a push button start wired straight to the solenoid...lovely. It does work and engine does turn over and seems to have compression and did have spark, Great! But I would like this to work as intended with the key ignition switch so I dove into that area. So the ignition switch did test bad with my multimeter. It was pretty rusted up so I did get a new switch and fully tested and it works as expected. So hooked it up and no signal to the solenoid. Downloaded the wiring diagram and have been going down that rabbit hole for hours. Still trying to follow the solenoid command flow. First stop under the shifter plate revealed some chewing carnage. If anyone has a pic or knows which of these 3 wires goes where that would be most helpful! So getting those refitted with new connectors and trying to figure out which ones connect to the clutch switch. I tested the switch for continuity and it is working. But I have 3 wires and only 2 plug into it. I'm not sure where the 3rd wire goes right now. Still studying the diagrams. There was a parking brake switch under the shifter plate and it tested good as well. I have traced power with the key switch on to the PTO switch but have not had luck tracing the solenoid signal. So that's kind of where I am now. I have ordered some new parts for maintenance items as I get it ready to run. Next things will be to continue trouble shooting the solenoid signal. I will roll this out once I get the axle seal in and put the hub back on and wash it off while the seat fender is off. I also realized the drive belt and clutch pulley is gone. So I'll be sourcing those as well. The rest seems to be there as best I can tell. I'm sure there's more though waiting to be discovered. I'll post updates as make progress or may be a cry for help.

Here's the link to become a supporter: https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/ This place is amazing... a lot of knowledge, interspersed with some fun...

Niiiiice save! On that hub, some folks can cut a new groove in them. @WHX?? may be able to comment here. Carefully check the carb for throttle shaft wear. Remember to utilize the "New to the Herd" thread. Excellent tool there.

Back from the hardware store! Found a 3/8" diameter bolt with a shoulder. To make it all work put it together in this order: -Bolt -2 washers -Lift Link -Washer between -Plow Frame -2 washers -Nylon lock nut Put grease between all the components too as advised! Works like a charm and staying tight! Thanks guys

@Alrashid2 Your name looks great in RED!

Wire harness as pulled from tractor. I made up a bracket to secure the sealed fuse holders from a scrap piece of aluminum that was kicking around the shop. It is drilled on each end to be mounted using two existing bolts that hold the front plate. It was then drilled and tapped so I could screw the fuse holders to it. Fuse holders labelled. This is the kit I used to make up the fuse holders. Wire harness at mid rebuild. Harness has been very modified to support the upgraded charging system, fuel gauge, tail lights. Wire harness ready to install.

This is the one I was thinking of:

All great guess's. The parking pass was a left over from camping, Sylvia. Apparently it was still good for the I-94 parking lot today though, Used it twice on my trip home. Traffic at a dead stop for 30 min on 2 occasions . As for the Christmas gift all wrapped up on the trailer behind the truck??? Well, let's just say that my days of running out of air pressure are over. I didn't bother unwrapping it when I got home as the weather turned a 6hr round trip into an 11hr round trip. Here is a link to what I won on an auction Tuesday. Brand new, scored it for just under 1/3 the sticker price. https://www.landhonorindustrial.com/SHOP/172.html

That is an understatement...

Yes they rattle... Normal.

@Alrashid2 if you go looking for a pulley look for a cast # on back of pulley 7466 . Look at the pulley not what it came off, a lot of different models used that pulley. Might find a cheaper one. Good luck.

I actually got all the boxes out this morning. That's a start!

Well, I finally got everything together! Ended up using the spacers, after taking into account the extra width of the chains. No way would this have worked otherwise. 7\16 20x 1 1\4 bolts worked for attaching the spacers to the hubs. Then, I found short lug nuts that fit inside the spacers. I did drill, lightly, the rims to accommodate the 1\2" studs on the spacers. Now, I just need a snowstorm! Oh, and I found an Original cab, which I will pick up tomorrow, along with a 312 tractor, tiller, deck, and another blower, and leaf blower, probably from a vac system. It's been a fun project, and I thank all of you for the tips!

Just typed (wheelhorse 7466 for sale ) found 4 or 5, also A/Z tractor one of are vendors says he has 17 in stock. $ 40- $135. You want a 4" pulley, for a manual transmission. Nothing to think about.

Three words that prove you belong with this cluster of clowns

Yeah, as soon as I started watching for myself I knew it was wrong! Thanks EB! *edit* hey, at least it was the same engine swap project!

I used a 2" X 3/4" flat bar and shaved off 1/8" with the port-a-band where it enters the slot hitch.

That slot hitch will hold a lot more than you'd think. Prior the outstanding receiver hitches from Lowell I used the bar stock with a ball in the slot hitch. For the pin I had a grade 9 through the slot hitch and down through the drawbar. That kept it from pushing upwards. We has a 30' travel trailer at the time ad I moved it all over with the 76. I don't recall the tongue weight but it sure made things grunt when I lowered it on the hitch and the only way to keep the front end down was to hook up the snowblower on the front. Just to be safer I always had the tongue jack lowered to within a couple inches of the ground just in case the cable let go. Never happened. i

Here you go! (I think it’s in this video)

Over 40 years of working with 1930 to 1950 Cast Iron and Cast Steel industrial parts, we came across many “indications”. In the inspection world they were all “indications” until you proved depth or they truly broke. When cast metal cools it shrinks and leaves behind shrinkage flaws. Think of an inward wrinkle on the surface of the cast metal. When the surface of these shrinkage lines is machined they may go away or appear like a crack. Dye check and mag particle inspection will usually highlight them as an indication. Ultrasonic inspection with an angle transducer may help tell if it actually has some depth. In many case after the high tech inspections we would finally take a file or flapper disc and removed a 1/32 of metal to see if they would go away. I say all this because what I see in these pictures is a rusty or dirty indication line not a shiny new indication line. I’m guessing this picture is after you ran it for a while. So yes it could have gotten rust or dirt wiped into it. You’ve shown that you can inspect it with your bore scope. If it were me, I would put a dot of paint on the top edge of the pulley at each end of the indication. Then I would run it and go back and know I was looking at the exact same spot. The other thing you could do is take a file and remove a good filings worth of metal from the area. Then sand it smooth and see if you still see the indication. Yes you will be very very slightly distorting the pulley. But since it’s inward (creating a hole) it’s so slight the belt will ever know it’s there.

With the belt guard in place, family jewels will be fine…

Little late to the party. Looks like the same spacers I used. Got mine off fleablay for what this tight wad thought was a good price. 15 a piece ... That was back in 2020 tho. Fit the centers perfect and doesn't hurt the rim to open the holes a little. Regular studs hold find if returning to stock. On the hubs I always add a nylon thrust washer if the hub is off. Spaces the hub out abit and possibly protects the seal a little. Really nice lookin C there Loud ...

I do not like RTV but sometimes it is the answer..(or non hardening gasket sealant). Just smear a very thin coat (very thin) on both sides of the gasket.

So far, so good! Haven't really put it to any stressful duty but 15 minutes up and down the driveway with the blade scraping up ornamental pear/berries - no visible leaks or fluid on anything! I ended up using aluminum foil tape instead of cellophane tape to help with the transition from spline to shaft. I have to say it worked very well. I made sure I lubed everything before installing. I decided not to use any sealant on the outside of the seal. FYI - the aluminum foil tape makes a great liner for the headlight buckets which is what I originally bought it for.

Back to working on the barn

Lemme know when yer gonna I'll run over. Like to check it out. Got a good Idea for a pad for it. FYI boys this is going to a buddy's shop where it would be difficult to get 240 VAC power to unless a separate service is brought in. Still no way a decent big electric one could be bought for the cost of this one. This one could be sold for what's in it if we ever fingered out the power issue.

Nice find! I have a 414-8 and I call it the beast because of how it is a hard worker. I struggle with wiring and electrical stuff so hats off to you in checking and keeping those switches operational. Keep working on it and clean the carb and you will have that thing running soon.

The pulley for a Kohler single cylinder 10 to16 HP 8 speed is 4" diameter and 1 1/8" bore.

I am a fabricator/builder/hillbilly/Midwest cheap, so yeah I extended some bolts. The thread is 1/4”-20 so you could get some threaded rod and washers and nuts and cut to length.

Thanks @Pullstart (and @ebinmaine ) - I was watching the first video a bit confused ha! I think I can find one of those steering wheel pullers pretty cheap... Question though: did you weld up some custom bolts for the puller just to save a trip to the hardware store? I'm no welder so wondering if I could just find the proper bolts to buy, should I end up doing the swap at some point... I found one that is close - according to the experts here the exact one for my model isnt out there online... I think mine is for a 1987 312-8, while I have a 1985. So wasn't sure if it was exactly the same... yes I think those were the 2 numbers I saw but I also saw some mentioned on some parts websites that were longer and started with 10xxxxx... I think I've found him on Craigslist before while perusing! Saw a ton of listings out of Malvern. I wonder if he is a member on the forum? I've texted him twice about 2 separate parts, and he started to respond but then never got back to me... that was over a month ago... @oliver2-44: thanks for your detailed response. My wife originally went to school for jewelry making, so I used to hear a lot about diamond indications! Likewise, a lot of those methods you mentioned I have read about in regards to AR-15 bolt carrier groups - similar inspection process of "indications" I believe. As much as I wish this was an old shrinkage mark, it is 100% fresh and caused by me putting a long prybar between the pulley and the engine, and prying toward me. I ran it for maybe 10 min and took the photos 10 minutes after the initial damage. That being said, I hope you are right that this is just an "indication" and not a full blown "crack" - my hope is the fissure I found doesn't go very deep. Part of me is tempted to take your advice and continue sanding the surface to see if it goes away, but again, I need to stop listening to that part of my mind (see @Bar Nuthin's signature!!!) - I agree with you it shouldn't make a lick of difference to the belt, but I more often than not tinker and make things worst and worst! Reminds me of some cartoon I saw (or maybe this is a high school memory) where a guy is trying to trim his beard, keeps making it uneven, and before you know it he's cut the beard 4" up his neck! I think I may stop while I'm ahead and still have a running tractor. Maybe once I feel more confident in the Plan B of replacing the pulley, I'll get in there more, when there is less risk of being down and out should i ruin something! I will definitely do the drop of paint though! Great idea, as that should last longer than the sharpie marks.

Yeah nice try Bar but not the same seal. Back when I did my first two piece the 9815 could be had for 4 bucks and the 1257 was reasonable. Other ones are still affordable. Kinda the same thing with bearings. Me thinks seal manufactures are trying to capitalize on our addiction to horses ...

I'll have to see what I have stashed away in my scrap collection. It just dawned onto me that this setup will be perfect for my lawn aerator, detacher, and drop spreader. None of them handle turns very well and are a PIA when crossing a couple sidewalks I have to deal with.

I probably have one but it would be in a box with hundreds of pre digital photos. I've been meaning to go through them and digitize them but I've been meaning to do that for years.

The winch is only as strong as the arm that is twisting it, the pulling power of mine has been severely diminishing over the years. Seriously, I doubt that you or anyone else is going to be able to crank that handle hard enough to break the cable.

I can definitely see the logic in that. The setup on our saw is a light that shines from both sides of the blade so the steel circle creates a shadow that is not negotiable in position. You turn on the light but not the blade and bring it down close to the piece being sliced. The darker shadow under the blade IS the cut. But here's the thing.... We aren't trying to do Fine Cabinetry here. This system works great for us but I can't speak for any effort that would be less than a 16th of an inch or half a degree tilt or whatever.

I find the laser that mounts against the blade to be very accurate. Just follow the pencil line with the light and you have an accurate cut. I wouldn't trust the ones that are mounted to the saw body.

I used a steering wheel puller kit, I believe. Although I admit, I would run that thing ‘til the cows come home!

Removing that pulley is a bit tedious, given that the PTO parts must all come off first. It can be a bit intimidating until you’ve done one, put it back together, and it works properly. I’ve only done one, but I’d go ahead and do another If the need arose. Things you might not think of: - the inner roller bearings in the PTO shell need only the minimum good grease on reassembly--excess will run out and corrupt the clutch facing - the clutch plate must remain perfectly flat and free of grease and oil--once the bolts are out, use only clean gloved hands to get it off and put it down on a clean rag out of the way of the rest of your work to keep it clean and dry (I’d advise not using any solvents on the facing) - behind the drive pulley, on the crankshaft at the engine housing, is a seal. Heat or other violence on the crankshaft might well damage it--including excess in or out pressure on the crankshaft relative to the body of the engine. - When putting on the new pulley, it should be snug and go on with no more than light hammer taps via a softwood block on the hub--it is perfectly ok to lightly oil the shaft and bore before assembly. Burrs or scratches on the shaft and bore MUST be removed beforehand.

My God! ? They trust you with weapons?

Seconded. Runnitt. Checkkit. If/when it breaks and you invent new words be sure to share them by PM. That might be fine for YYEEEAARRSSS like that.

You pay right close attention to whatever @Handy Don says.

Depends on what the ladder is rated for

I used to be fast, now, just half-fast

Do the tri ribs tear up the lawn when turning?

lots of family tractor memories for many of us -- my son in 1989 on our new 312 hauling some bricks - then his son leafing/mowing on the same 312 thirty years later in 2019 .