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My favorite photo and my favorite model Wheel Horse tractor! Plus the added bonus of my Nestle Coffee Creamer bottle hub caps! It was taken early in the morning and it just does not get much better than this!

surprise surprise surprise

Another case where if it's a problem, it will make itself known at some point. I must say, I feel like you've taken my signature quote to a whole new level!

and since @peter lena hasn't chimed in yet - some grease at pivot points for smooth operation

That's what we do. In fact, I take it a step further and use a grade 8 bolt that's long enough to have a non threaded part at the head. Then use a locking nut. Keeps things nice n snug.

All great guess's. The parking pass was a left over from camping, Sylvia. Apparently it was still good for the I-94 parking lot today though, Used it twice on my trip home. Traffic at a dead stop for 30 min on 2 occasions . As for the Christmas gift all wrapped up on the trailer behind the truck??? Well, let's just say that my days of running out of air pressure are over. I didn't bother unwrapping it when I got home as the weather turned a 6hr round trip into an 11hr round trip. Here is a link to what I won on an auction Tuesday. Brand new, scored it for just under 1/3 the sticker price. https://www.landhonorindustrial.com/SHOP/172.html

1. Go ahead and use a puller, breaking it more is a non issue. 2. There should be a part number cast in the pulley that you will see once it is off. 3. Quit prying against the engine, all you need is to crack it as well. 4. I bought a pulley from A-Z Tractor for a reasonable price.

I just cannot conceive how these guys react fast enough to get through those areas of village into country and back. Never mind the nerve to open the throttle fully with all the obstacles and street clutter to hit. At least on a track they do their best to make runoff areas etc. Then there's the sheer physical exertion of riding the thing lap after lap. They are a breed apart.

Oh man... if you have a bit of my mind you are in trouble...

Seconded. Runnitt. Checkkit. If/when it breaks and you invent new words be sure to share them by PM. That might be fine for YYEEEAARRSSS like that.

Maybe @Bar Nuthin will loan you his signature. "If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is"

Run it for a while and see if it changes... hard to say from the pictures... Again, these things are 40+ years old and well used... they will run under a lot less then ideal conditions...

Don't watch this if you are of a nervous disposition. I'm not a biker but I have to say, they are absolutely crackers.....

I run several attachments from the slot hitch. I find it the easiest platform to build custom tools from. The sprayer is 20 gallon and the harrow is pretty heavy on its own and sometimes run wheel weights on it if I need more

YIKES! My comments: scary high speed wobble, road contact no larger than two Ace of Diamonds. what could possible happen should a stray neighborhood dog chase supper across the road?, side car occupants--I assume they were willing participants. I think I'll stay with Wheel Horse cruising in road gear!

Not a problem, I had my plow on the 953 snag a big root, went to lift the plow and the front wheels of the tractor came up instead. The cable had just been replaced with a new Wheel Horse Parts and More unit or it probably would have broken. How about a low cart with caster wheels at the back and a tongue that will slip into the slot hitch with the lift lever in the down position. That way the hitch could move up or down to go over hills or into low spots and it could be backed up with no problem. HF has some casters with 8" OD pneumatic tires. This home made rake runs about eighty pounds and bounces around when being transported and not in use, it has never given me any problems.

With the belt guard in place, family jewels will be fine…

Saving these quotes for future reference.

I was not of a nervous disposition until I watched that.

DO NOT USE A TORCH or you will end up needing to replace the crankshaft seal or worse. If you don't have the proper puller for this job your local auto parts store probably loans this type of tool for free, just have to leave a refundable deposit. Call Lincoln at A-Z for a good used pulley. https://www.a-ztractor.com/

YOU WILL LIKELY NEED A PROPER PULLER. @Pullstart recently posted a video to his own channel. He may be able to offer advice.

Because you cannot afford to lose any more? Note that that engine pulley looks like a machined casting (many are). They do not take kindly to bending so keep an eye and ear out. Vibration and heat are not your friends in this situation.

@Bar Nuthin so funny you said that - when I first saw your sig, I said to myself, "Wow, that's the story of my life right there!" Another one that I'm infamous for regretting soon later is "What's the worst that could happen?"

@Bar Nuthin @Ed Kennell agree with the shoulder bolts for secure movement areas , 2 vital areas for those are on plows , top of lever squeeze handle , for plow swing , and right at bottom triangle wire pull point , allowing a washed up / lubricated swing / movement area , that can be dialed in with an elastic Lok nut , secure / yet smooth solid action . when you ELIMINATE the no response ,squeeze lever , pull point , by tightening up the wire loop end holes , the entire lever pull is instant , to the quadrat spring / pin slide point , works with ridiculous ease , aerosol red grease . original set ups were ok for , for production assembly line building , but its the DETAILING that makes those spots work without effort . done a lot of that on lever / linkage connection points , guy I sold a horse to , thought the PTO lever was broken , he was wrong , he was used to screaming / screeching engagement , also showed him how to not just slam on the drive , deck spun up quietly , probably blew it up , rotting in a field , pete

Looks like a garder belt purchased or acquired on 10/13 according to the parking pass...

Using smaller stock will put the loads at the ends of the slot instead of distributing it as it should be. And it’ll permit bouncing which is not good. Were it me, I’d weld up a sandwich of two 5/16” bars or at least add a ⅛” to the ½” and make sure that either sticks out past the ends of the slot.

I used to be fast, now, just half-fast

Sweet! I saw all the old WH manuals all had cotters/clevis combos so just wanted to make sure! Love that - I'll get to the hardware store tomorrow and look for a Grade 8 bolt. Will take some measurements tonight. Thanks @ebinmaine! By the way, picked up the wire this morning! This is exactly what I was picturing!

It passes the OSHA 3 point contact rule.

That's kinda what I was thinking when first saw it. Now I got a few fresh ideas.

It’s really hard just to pick one!

No laser. It has a double shadow type effect. From HD site: "Essentially XPS technology uses an LED to project light down either side of the blade, creating a shadow of the blade in the work area. XPS casts a shadow from both sides of the blade onto the wood. It also lights up the area around the cut line."

Ugh there I go again 😂

I asked myself that and him. Also especially since the axle looks good too. I snagged some from work. Turns out we have a whole woodruff key drawer in our hardware section. As my boss would say “the perks of this job are what ever you make of it”. Having hardware handy to grab from and borrowing equipment sure does have its bonuses

Yup. That does look like a crack. Might be OK, might not. The only way to tell is to keep track of the size of the crack - both length and width. Being a cast pulley, I'd expect that the crack will grow. A co worker was a helicopter pilot in the Air Calvary in the middle east. Before each flight, he would look at the maintenance log of whatever machine he was going to fly. The entry he really hated to see was "Unable to recreate reported problem. Fly and watch." One option for you is to "fly and watch". Just keep in mind that you will be seated in the rotation plane of a damaged pulley with a rim speed of around 3000 feet per minute.

New. Not likely or cheap. Good used. Definitely. As always contact our Redsquare vendors. Just get outta that habit. Immediately. There's a plethora of good used parts available. This is ..... with all due respect.... just ridiculous people.

Another thing you could do is to get a dye checking kit. The kit has a spray can of cleaner, a spray can of dye penetrant, and a spray can of developer. Not sure how much or where to get the stuff- Mc Master Carr maybe? We would use it in the test lab on durability tests we ran on wheels. You clean the suspected area of the part with the cleaner and wipe it off. Then you spray the suspected area with the dye penetrant and wait 5 minutes or so. The area is then cleaned of penetrant with a rag soaked with the cleaner. Finally, the developer is sprayed on to the suspect area. It will dry to a flat white coating. If there is a crack, it will show up as a red line. If this was not a drive pulley, I'd suggest using transmission fluid and talcum powder to do the same thing, but oil on a drive pulley is not a good idea.

The alignment does matter, With the belt cover and maybe the hood off the tractor, you should be able to sight the crank pulley-to-transaxle pulley alignment. That is what counts. The brake rod isn’t supposed to rub, of course, but if the alignment is good, then the issue is why is the rod out of place?

Thanks @SylvanLakeWH. Will make a note of it's location in relation to the set screws so I know where it is. Thanks again for a bit of peace of mind...

Pictures from several angles of the part would be of help to assist you in fixing it......

No need for a shoulder bolt. I also use a bolt with washers under the head to position the unthreaded shank of the bolt in the hole. Then use a flat washer and double nut to set the correct snug sliding fit.

160 lbs of liquid, 40 lbs of hitch and container (?) so 200 lbs at maybe 20” out? Easy peasy at 4,000 lb inches

Yeah man. I know, ... I really wish I could do more stuff, more often.... But most days my body is just too damn tired to move. No worries. Ya do what ya can.

That's the same concept we use on our tractors - counter weights for front or back... smart dude!!!

A 20 inch 250 lb zip tie would also work to connect your existing wire to the lever. And it is adjustable. I use a small turnbuckle to keep a little tension on mine.

I agree that the cable is likely designed to be the weakest point. A failure here is probably the least dangerous. I just looked up the tensile strength of ⅛” wire rope -- approx 1,700+ lbs at breaking. Of course the condition of the wire and swages might lessen that. And other parts like the pins and clevises might be more or less. The arm and socket on the hitch casting are probably strong enough but I’m no metallurgist. And can one’s arm (or the hydro) generate that much force? IDK! The pivot at the transaxle is about 7” from the cable attaching point so I’ll start with 11,900 lb inches An 80 lb load centered 30” out from the pivot is only 2,400 lb inches. A 200 lb load (ex. disc harrow & extra weights) centered 40” out from the pivot gets to 8,000 lb inches but still only two thirds of the break strength. So from a back-of-the envelope, “looks about right” calculation, it’d take 300 lbs at 40” out to be at the “something is sure to break" limit! Yep, lifting the front of the tractor probably takes less!

It works great. I was living in Florida when I built the rake and used it several times to clear the yard of hurricane debris. Branches, roof shingles, broken plastic patio chairs, you name it, just pulled them out to the edge of the street.

I've got a set of those in a crate somewhere. Used them one time to relocate a shed. A rake is something that really interests me. I've often wondered how one would work for gathering up sticks into piles. I have several 100+ year old Oak trees that shed branches like crazy every time the wind blows.