Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/19/2024 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    My favorite photo and my favorite model Wheel Horse tractor! Plus the added bonus of my Nestle Coffee Creamer bottle hub caps! It was taken early in the morning and it just does not get much better than this!
  2. 6 points
    surprise surprise surprise
  3. 5 points
    Another case where if it's a problem, it will make itself known at some point. I must say, I feel like you've taken my signature quote to a whole new level!
  4. 5 points
    and since @peter lena hasn't chimed in yet - some grease at pivot points for smooth operation
  5. 5 points
    That's what we do. In fact, I take it a step further and use a grade 8 bolt that's long enough to have a non threaded part at the head. Then use a locking nut. Keeps things nice n snug.
  6. 4 points
    All great guess's. The parking pass was a left over from camping, Sylvia. Apparently it was still good for the I-94 parking lot today though, Used it twice on my trip home. Traffic at a dead stop for 30 min on 2 occasions . As for the Christmas gift all wrapped up on the trailer behind the truck??? Well, let's just say that my days of running out of air pressure are over. I didn't bother unwrapping it when I got home as the weather turned a 6hr round trip into an 11hr round trip. Here is a link to what I won on an auction Tuesday. Brand new, scored it for just under 1/3 the sticker price. https://www.landhonorindustrial.com/SHOP/172.html
  7. 4 points
    1. Go ahead and use a puller, breaking it more is a non issue. 2. There should be a part number cast in the pulley that you will see once it is off. 3. Quit prying against the engine, all you need is to crack it as well. 4. I bought a pulley from A-Z Tractor for a reasonable price.
  8. 4 points
    I just cannot conceive how these guys react fast enough to get through those areas of village into country and back. Never mind the nerve to open the throttle fully with all the obstacles and street clutter to hit. At least on a track they do their best to make runoff areas etc. Then there's the sheer physical exertion of riding the thing lap after lap. They are a breed apart.
  9. 4 points
    Oh man... if you have a bit of my mind you are in trouble...
  10. 4 points
    Seconded. Runnitt. Checkkit. If/when it breaks and you invent new words be sure to share them by PM. That might be fine for YYEEEAARRSSS like that.
  11. 4 points
    Maybe @Bar Nuthin will loan you his signature. "If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is"
  12. 4 points
    Run it for a while and see if it changes... hard to say from the pictures... Again, these things are 40+ years old and well used... they will run under a lot less then ideal conditions...
  13. 4 points
    Don't watch this if you are of a nervous disposition. I'm not a biker but I have to say, they are absolutely crackers.....
  14. 4 points
    I run several attachments from the slot hitch. I find it the easiest platform to build custom tools from. The sprayer is 20 gallon and the harrow is pretty heavy on its own and sometimes run wheel weights on it if I need more
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    YIKES! My comments: scary high speed wobble, road contact no larger than two Ace of Diamonds. what could possible happen should a stray neighborhood dog chase supper across the road?, side car occupants--I assume they were willing participants. I think I'll stay with Wheel Horse cruising in road gear!
  17. 4 points
    Not a problem, I had my plow on the 953 snag a big root, went to lift the plow and the front wheels of the tractor came up instead. The cable had just been replaced with a new Wheel Horse Parts and More unit or it probably would have broken. How about a low cart with caster wheels at the back and a tongue that will slip into the slot hitch with the lift lever in the down position. That way the hitch could move up or down to go over hills or into low spots and it could be backed up with no problem. HF has some casters with 8" OD pneumatic tires. This home made rake runs about eighty pounds and bounces around when being transported and not in use, it has never given me any problems.
  18. 3 points
  19. 3 points
    With the belt guard in place, family jewels will be fine…
  20. 3 points
  21. 3 points
    I was not of a nervous disposition until I watched that.
  22. 3 points
    DO NOT USE A TORCH or you will end up needing to replace the crankshaft seal or worse. If you don't have the proper puller for this job your local auto parts store probably loans this type of tool for free, just have to leave a refundable deposit. Call Lincoln at A-Z for a good used pulley. https://www.a-ztractor.com/
  23. 3 points
    YOU WILL LIKELY NEED A PROPER PULLER. @Pullstart recently posted a video to his own channel. He may be able to offer advice.
  24. 3 points
    Because you cannot afford to lose any more? Note that that engine pulley looks like a machined casting (many are). They do not take kindly to bending so keep an eye and ear out. Vibration and heat are not your friends in this situation.
  25. 3 points
    @Bar Nuthin so funny you said that - when I first saw your sig, I said to myself, "Wow, that's the story of my life right there!" Another one that I'm infamous for regretting soon later is "What's the worst that could happen?"
  26. 3 points
    @Bar Nuthin @Ed Kennell agree with the shoulder bolts for secure movement areas , 2 vital areas for those are on plows , top of lever squeeze handle , for plow swing , and right at bottom triangle wire pull point , allowing a washed up / lubricated swing / movement area , that can be dialed in with an elastic Lok nut , secure / yet smooth solid action . when you ELIMINATE the no response ,squeeze lever , pull point , by tightening up the wire loop end holes , the entire lever pull is instant , to the quadrat spring / pin slide point , works with ridiculous ease , aerosol red grease . original set ups were ok for , for production assembly line building , but its the DETAILING that makes those spots work without effort . done a lot of that on lever / linkage connection points , guy I sold a horse to , thought the PTO lever was broken , he was wrong , he was used to screaming / screeching engagement , also showed him how to not just slam on the drive , deck spun up quietly , probably blew it up , rotting in a field , pete
  27. 3 points
    Looks like a garder belt purchased or acquired on 10/13 according to the parking pass...
  28. 3 points
    Using smaller stock will put the loads at the ends of the slot instead of distributing it as it should be. And it’ll permit bouncing which is not good. Were it me, I’d weld up a sandwich of two 5/16” bars or at least add a ⅛” to the ½” and make sure that either sticks out past the ends of the slot.
  29. 3 points
    I used to be fast, now, just half-fast
  30. 3 points
    Sweet! I saw all the old WH manuals all had cotters/clevis combos so just wanted to make sure! Love that - I'll get to the hardware store tomorrow and look for a Grade 8 bolt. Will take some measurements tonight. Thanks @ebinmaine! By the way, picked up the wire this morning! This is exactly what I was picturing!
  31. 3 points
    It passes the OSHA 3 point contact rule.
  32. 3 points
    That's kinda what I was thinking when first saw it. Now I got a few fresh ideas.
  33. 3 points
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    It could very well of been like that. There’s also the chance that the tire did come off and he didn’t own up to it. I would hope he would have told me so we could fix the situation if it had a issue
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    I asked myself that and him. Also especially since the axle looks good too. I snagged some from work. Turns out we have a whole woodruff key drawer in our hardware section. As my boss would say “the perks of this job are what ever you make of it”. Having hardware handy to grab from and borrowing equipment sure does have its bonuses
  38. 2 points
    Yup. That does look like a crack. Might be OK, might not. The only way to tell is to keep track of the size of the crack - both length and width. Being a cast pulley, I'd expect that the crack will grow. A co worker was a helicopter pilot in the Air Calvary in the middle east. Before each flight, he would look at the maintenance log of whatever machine he was going to fly. The entry he really hated to see was "Unable to recreate reported problem. Fly and watch." One option for you is to "fly and watch". Just keep in mind that you will be seated in the rotation plane of a damaged pulley with a rim speed of around 3000 feet per minute.
  39. 2 points
    I would get a new pulley and toss that cracked thing in the recycle bin.
  40. 2 points
    Another thing you could do is to get a dye checking kit. The kit has a spray can of cleaner, a spray can of dye penetrant, and a spray can of developer. Not sure how much or where to get the stuff- Mc Master Carr maybe? We would use it in the test lab on durability tests we ran on wheels. You clean the suspected area of the part with the cleaner and wipe it off. Then you spray the suspected area with the dye penetrant and wait 5 minutes or so. The area is then cleaned of penetrant with a rag soaked with the cleaner. Finally, the developer is sprayed on to the suspect area. It will dry to a flat white coating. If there is a crack, it will show up as a red line. If this was not a drive pulley, I'd suggest using transmission fluid and talcum powder to do the same thing, but oil on a drive pulley is not a good idea.
  41. 2 points
    The alignment does matter, With the belt cover and maybe the hood off the tractor, you should be able to sight the crank pulley-to-transaxle pulley alignment. That is what counts. The brake rod isn’t supposed to rub, of course, but if the alignment is good, then the issue is why is the rod out of place?
  42. 2 points
    I made shims for the sprayer attachment. Definitely didn’t like the slop created by the narrower bar stock
  43. 2 points
    Pictures from several angles of the part would be of help to assist you in fixing it......
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    No need for a shoulder bolt. I also use a bolt with washers under the head to position the unthreaded shank of the bolt in the hole. Then use a flat washer and double nut to set the correct snug sliding fit.
  46. 2 points
    160 lbs of liquid, 40 lbs of hitch and container (?) so 200 lbs at maybe 20” out? Easy peasy at 4,000 lb inches
  47. 2 points
    That's the same concept we use on our tractors - counter weights for front or back... smart dude!!!
  48. 2 points
    A 20 inch 250 lb zip tie would also work to connect your existing wire to the lever. And it is adjustable. I use a small turnbuckle to keep a little tension on mine.
  49. 2 points
    Different brand...but this is a 26x12x12 Versaturf on a narrow 8.5" rim. Being a radial tire it still holds a pretty flat tread on the unusually narrow wheel
  50. 2 points
    I've got a set of those in a crate somewhere. Used them one time to relocate a shed. A rake is something that really interests me. I've often wondered how one would work for gathering up sticks into piles. I have several 100+ year old Oak trees that shed branches like crazy every time the wind blows.
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-05:00


  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...